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Leperflesh posted:Yeah just to be 100% clear, Gorilla Glue is a brand. Leperflesh posted:e. oh yeah. CA glue bond doesn't have to be permanent, if you gently caress it up there's a de-bonder made by bsi:
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Sep 24, 2020 18:05
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There's a clear gorilla glue that I use sometimes. It's definitely not fast curing like CA glue is, you absolutely need to clamp. I have no idea if it would work well for wood, I use it mainly to glue glass to more glass because CA glue does not work very well for that application. It does not appear to foam or expand, and is indeed clear.
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Sep 24, 2020 19:12
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I also have a bottle of Gorilla Wood Glue, which AFAICT is a PVA glue. I got it because I was out of glue and I couldn't get to a hardware/home center store, but I could get to a Blick art supply store, and they didn't have Titebond. It seems fine.
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Sep 24, 2020 20:08
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Olothreutes posted:There's a clear gorilla glue that I use sometimes. It's definitely not fast curing like CA glue is, you absolutely need to clamp. I have no idea if it would work well for wood, I use it mainly to glue glass to more glass because CA glue does not work very well for that application. It does not appear to foam or expand, and is indeed clear. https://www.gorillatough.com/products/ could be their "clear glue" or maybe their "clear grip"? The clear glue claims it's non-expanding, non-foaming, and bonds wood: but I'd still go with a proper wood glue rather than an all-purpose glue for most applications, and CA glue for a very specific application such as repairing veneer and very thin breaks.
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Sep 24, 2020 20:19
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Leperflesh posted:https://www.gorillatough.com/products/ It's the clear glue. It forms a strong bond and definitely doesn't expand or foam, I'll vouch for that. It's almost certainly clear or so close that I can't tell the difference even on glass. I don't think I'd use it as a wood glue unless I had nothing else though. It takes forever to dry (the instructions say the set time is 2 hours and full cure is 24 hours) and you definitely need to clamp it. I haven't seen the clear grip stuff so I can't comment on that one.
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Sep 24, 2020 21:22
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https://www.thisiscolossal.com/2019/09/castles-by-uli-kirchler/
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Sep 25, 2020 17:20
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Those are really cool, id love to see the bottoms. Think he cuts all the way through then puts a bottom on it?
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Sep 25, 2020 18:14
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JEEVES420 posted:Those are really cool, id love to see the bottoms. Think he cuts all the way through then puts a bottom on it? Cut the bottom off first, then cut out the buildings, then glue the bottom back on? I assume... I donno when I saw that all I could think about was the process of making it.
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Sep 25, 2020 18:21
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In his instagram there's a picture of the bottom of one. It's cut all the way through and has some dowels as guides for the sliding action I guess.
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Sep 25, 2020 18:38
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Thumposaurus posted:In his instagram there's a picture of the bottom of one. It's cut all the way through and has some dowels as guides for the sliding action I guess. https://www.instagram.com/p/Baf-Cp4g1Tu/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Drill and coping saw I bet.
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Sep 25, 2020 19:32
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JEEVES420 posted:https://www.instagram.com/p/Baf-Cp4g1Tu/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link That would be a nightmare in time to do with a drill and coping/scroll saw. I have seen picnic baskets like that though that have a cam built into the handle so they pack flat until you turn the handle up and then they pop out. Those are a lot simpler to cut though being bigger and without all of those details. edit: Actually spending more time looking at it I think you are right. The bottom only looks like it is sliced off to make it flat and the dowels provide stoppers so nothing falls out the bottom. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 20:10
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Well in less cool news I made a sled for my table saw. I'm excited to cut new things that my miter saw can't. 
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Sep 25, 2020 22:28
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Thank you to those who offered some advice on picking up a plane. I ended up finding a Stanley No. 5 Type 9, it's not pretty but seems to be in good shape and no major defects or large patches of rust.  I got one of those honing guides for planes and chisels, and according to the guide the bevel was more around 35 degrees than 25. I'll grind that down later when I have time to work on restoring the whole thing, for now I just put an edge on it to try it out. I stuck a scrap piece of oak in the vice and after a little fiddling with the depth and lateral adjustment made the smoothest surface I've ever felt on a piece of wood. It's very satisfying to use as well, very sensory.  It looks like I have a little work to do however. I could blame this on the plane since I haven't done anything to restore or tune this up yet, but I have the feeling this is a serious case of operator error as it's the first time I've ever used one of these.  Anyways, very happy with my initial experience with it. I know I have a lot to learn still. Thank you for tuning in to this weeks edition of the newbie corner and letting me ramble a bit.
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Sep 25, 2020 22:32
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Actually, it is rather pretty, or perhaps homely in a good sense like an old dog.... and I hope you enjoy many miles of clear shaving....
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Sep 25, 2020 22:36
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I get that kind of slope all the time if I'm not careful, definitely operator error. Adjusting the blade and paying attention to how the plane is positioned/angled over the board can help.
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Sep 25, 2020 22:51
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Considering it's at least a 110+ years old, it doesn't look too bad at all. Bit of wear, which is actually good as it tells you it was actually used and not a lemon that sat discarded on a shelf for decades, but nothing important that won't clean up anyway. The bevel angle on the iron is fairly immaterial on bevel-down planes where the angle of the frog determines the actual pitch. As long as you're somewhere in the vicinity of a 30 degree bevel angle you should be fine. Also, yeah, my edges looked just as wonky when I started out, but with practice (and a bunch of scraps to practice on) you'll be able to get them nice and square soon enough
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Sep 26, 2020 00:00
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That plane looks great but it looks like you are running it with the level lever all the way over. If you are that can have give you that sort of tilt and you might want to adjust it out.
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Sep 26, 2020 02:28
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The junk collector posted:That plane looks great but it looks like you are running it with the level lever all the way over. If you are that can have give you that sort of tilt and you might want to adjust it out. I did that on purpose as having the lever all the way to the side was there only way to get the blade to look level. I'm sure there's some way to adjust that, or maybe it will get better when I can properly hone the edge.
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Sep 26, 2020 04:04
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Bought for $180 total. Only thing missing is the fence for the 71 but I don’t care too much. Same guy I bought my No. 5 from. He’s great cause he’s a hobbyist collector so doesn’t charge as much as he could. 
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Sep 26, 2020 18:36
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Cold on a Cob posted:https://twitter.com/CNBC/status/1309804276064104448?s=20 Hi, I don't wood, but I number. My brother does wood and when I saw this I thought of him. In a supply chain standpoint I understand that after wood gets cut down and processed into rectangle wood it gets shipped somewhere. Throughout all that some white dudes in suits bet on the price of what that wood would be when it gets to where it goes. Then my understanding of wood as a concept gets muddled with Settlers of Catan mechanics and cologne smells. I've been to home depot before and then went out to the rear end end of no where to a "lumber liquidator" because the wood was cheaper. So my question to thread is "how do you get wood?".
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Sep 26, 2020 21:53
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Well usually I sidle up to the missus and
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Sep 26, 2020 21:57
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Ranidas posted:I did that on purpose as having the lever all the way to the side was there only way to get the blade to look level. I'm sure there's some way to adjust that, or maybe it will get better when I can properly hone the edge. First put a square across the blade and see if it's ground square compared to the sides. Be aware some plane irons narrow towards one end so aren't perfectly square but I think that old stanley one is a rectangle so it should be at 90 degrees across the iron. If it's not, you'll want to grind it back to true. Then, when you mount the iron on the frog, put the cap iron on but just slightly clamp it down with enough pressure to hold the iron in place and that's all. Flip the plane over and eyeball the angle of the blade in the slot. Move it with your fingers one way or another until it's basically square. Then clamp the frog down and do your fine adjustments with the lever. Getting the board flat and true across the top as you plane is a combination of plane setup and technique. There are techniques you can use to compensate if you're tilting. One of the things you can do is run the plane forward at an angle front-to-back - this helps in two ways, the edge of the blade is now slicing rather than forcing itself forward which can really help with difficult grain, and two you're likely to feel with your hands if the plane is starting to ride higher or lower on one side or the other. Like this:  He's pushing the plane straight toward us, but angling it across the wood. Another thing I do especially when I'm doing an edge as in your picture, is stop after a few strokes and put a square across the wood at several places along its length. Just keep checking square over and over and you'll notice when you're starting to come off of 90 degrees and can compensate. Most likely it's happening due to too much pressure one side or the other, if your iron is straight in the plane. Sometime differences in grain can cause it, like if one edge is harder or softer than the other. After a lot of practice you'll get a feel for it and will just easily get pretty square results just by instinct.
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Sep 26, 2020 22:10
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KirbyKhan posted:Hi, I don't wood, but I number. My brother does wood and when I saw this I thought of him. You start with a tree of an appropriate size (big) and cut it down. At that point it has a lot of moisture in it and is considered 'green' wood. The green log is sawn into boards of a given size, like the 2x4 that everyone thinks of. Really it can be any size, that's up to the person running the sawmill. There are standard-ish sizes, 2x4 2x6 etc, which are usually grouped as dimensional lumber. Then it has to dry, which takes time and space as you wait for the boards to slowly lose moisture. The wood shrinks while this happens, which is why the board that was cut at 2 inches by 4 inches is not actually those dimensions when you buy it. The shrinking isn't symmetric, and the ends can shrink faster than the core of a board, potentially causing it to crack (wood people call it checking, no clue why) if you aren't careful. Because it takes a while to dry lumber and those boards occupy space green wood is cheaper than dry lumber but much harder to work with, you need to account for shrinkage when building a thing. You can accelerate the process using a kiln, but that costs money too. Once the boards are sawn and dried, that's what most people think of as lumber. It can take months to go from a tree to dried boards. As to why you can get the same boards for different prices, that's normal retail stuff. If your supplier buys huge lots in bulk they might pay less per board foot. Lumber also comes with quality grades, so that warped rear end knotty board should cost less than the straight, knot-free board of the same size, etc. E: or did you mean "how do I not get price gouged by box retailers?" Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Sep 26, 2020 |
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Sep 26, 2020 22:45
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Also new Stanley no 5 guy, please watch this
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Sep 26, 2020 23:32
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KirbyKhan posted:Hi, I don't wood, but I number. My brother does wood and when I saw this I thought of him. There are really several different markets for lumber and timber (and timber and lumber markets are very different from each other as well), but two main ones: hardwood lumber and softwood lumber. Hardwood lumber comes from deciduous trees and is mostly used for interior finishes-flooring, cabinets, furniture, trim, etc, and is usually sold in random widths and is also always sold as a specific species. Softwood lumber comes from coniferous trees-and is mostly made into dimensional lumber (2x4's, 2x6's etc.) that is used to be build houses. It is the dimensional softwood lumber (which is a traded commodity product) market that went crazy. Softwood timber also gets turned into plywood that gets used to build houses, but that's a bit different market. Softwood lumber and timber production is fairly concentrated in two areas: the large southern yellow pine belt of the SE US coastal plain and piedmont, and then the mountain west (lodgepole and other western pines/spruce) and west coast (chiefly douglas fir). Hardwood production is less concentrated, but is found more in the Mississippi valley and Midwest, Appalachia, and New England. Hardwood lumber is in general a much higher value per volume market, but the softwood market is way bigger overall. Grade/quality and species are very important to price in hardwoods-much less so in softwood lumber. A #2 grade 2x4 is a #2 2x4 and it doesn't really matter if it is southern pine or douglas fir, and a clear, straight, perfect high-grade #1 2x4 is only going to cost maybe 10-20% more. The cheapest hardwood lumber is usually tulip poplar and it's about $1.25/board foot, where high grade, clear pine is $1.00/bf, and high grade walnut and white oak are close to $7/bf. However, low grade lumber might cost 50% or more less than high grade stuff, so even within a species there is considerable variability. Demand for hardwood lumber also heavily follows consumer tastes and design trends in a way that softwood lumber doesn't. For the past few years, walnut and white oak have been very fashionable and their price has risen accordingly, while cherry (which used to be more than walnut) is very out of fashion and consequently fairly inexpensive. Some hardwoods have specialty uses-white oak gets used for bourbon barrels (another exploding demand segment) and that has contributed to it's high price. Softwood demand isn't species dependent and closely tracks with construction activity. Olothrutes described how the wood goes from tree (timber) to board (lumber), but how does the end consumer get their wood? If they're a woodworker buying hardwood (and most furniture is made of hardwoods), they go to a lumberyard that specializes in hardwoods, a supplier for commercial cabinet shops and architectural millwork or maybe to the sawmill itself. Compared to softwood mills, hardwood mills are usually fairly small. If they're not a woodworker, they are probably buying hardwoods as flooring, finished cabinetry, furniture, or millwork like doors and windows or trim. Maybe they're buying a fancy wooden boat or a guitar, but the above is 95% of the hardwood market-it's much more discretionary than the softwood market. Most people buy softwoods as a building material-fencing, decking, the materials that build the walls in your house. That's 95% of the softwood market, and it's basically tied entirely to the construction industry. I started rambling and idk if that answers your question or not, but hopefully it helps. There was chat about this a little while ago and this post I made may also be relevant: Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I hadn't actually considered that, but as I understand it, most of the current insanity in dimensional lumber prices is more or less COVID. Mills cut production back in the spring because the stock market crashed and they thought demand would crash soon after ala 2008. Some shutdown in a big 'lets tear this whole debarker apart to rebuild it because we won't need it for 3 months' kind of way that's hard to instantly switch back on. But instead of a drop in demand, everyone was stuck at home and decided to add onto their house/rebuild their fence/build a deck. Add in mortgage interest rates being super low and new house starts have held up or maybe even increased. Throwing some wildfires and a Cat 4 hitting a city into the mix doesn't help either.
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Sep 27, 2020 00:07
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I don’t have the original blade guard or pawls that came with this table saw, can someone tell me what to look for or measure to figure out what kind of blade guard and riving knife would fit this 1983 Craftsman 10"? http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5311
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Sep 27, 2020 04:08
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It’s quickly becoming apparent to me that a miter saw would make the projects that I’m wanting to do much easier. Should this one last me for a few years at the hobbyist level? https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-C10FCGS-Compound-15-Amp/dp/B07PX44JQM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=miter+saw&qid=1601176980&sr=8-3
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Sep 27, 2020 04:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
This part aligns closest to my brother and helps me explain my gut instinct of "lol markets are meaningless this isn't actually going to mean anything for you materially". His last couple of works have been slab tables of both the end and coffee variety. The post of the tree to plank pipeline helps me explain why there is a betting/futures market for lumber, because the gently caress else are you gonna do while you wait for the logs to dry. Thank you thread. It is always good to know that this dumb website is a good knowledge base for things that are real.
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Sep 27, 2020 04:30
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Rock My Socks! posted:It’s quickly becoming apparent to me that a miter saw would make the projects that I’m wanting to do much easier. Should this one last me for a few years at the hobbyist level? Not being a slider this is going to be useful for cutting trim and narrow boards. My recommendation would be save your pennies to get a slider or something like the Kreg ACS
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Sep 27, 2020 07:07
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GEMorris posted:Not being a slider this is going to be useful for cutting trim and narrow boards. I have a non-sliding miter saw, and IMO such tools absolutely pass the "last me a few years at the hobbyist level" tier. The one linked has a 10" blade, which means it can cut probably 9"-wide boards. That's not everything, but it's a lot of boards especially these days when wide boards are rarer and more expensive. And of course you can cut through most of the board, flip it, then finish the cut; with some practice you can do this with enough precision that there's no detectable variation in the edge. I've also heard of people tilting the board up while the saw is running to continue the cut, but I haven't tried it personally. I'd also personally be a bit leery of cheap sliders; my understanding is that the sliding mechanism makes it harder to get a cut precisely dialed in. I'd much rather precise short cuts than wobbly wide cuts. Having said that, Rock My Socks: there's an adage in this hobby of "buy once, cry once". Roughly speaking it means that you're usually better off paying for the good tool once, than paying for a crappy tool that you then have to fight every time you use it (and/or discovering that it breaks easily, forcing you to buy a replacement). You didn't say what your budget is, which is part of why I'm reluctant to suggest more expensive tools, but I'd definitely be a bit suspicious of a tool that costs half what the equivalent DeWalt miter costs.
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Sep 27, 2020 15:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have a non-sliding miter saw, and IMO such tools absolutely pass the "last me a few years at the hobbyist level" tier. The one linked has a 10" blade, which means it can cut probably 9"-wide boards. That's not everything, but it's a lot of boards especially these days when wide boards are rarer and more expensive. And of course you can cut through most of the board, flip it, then finish the cut; with some practice you can do this with enough precision that there's no detectable variation in the edge. I've also heard of people tilting the board up while the saw is running to continue the cut, but I haven't tried it personally. My 10" non-sliding miter saw can aaaaaalmost cut a 2x6, so about 5" is its max.
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Sep 27, 2020 15:27
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What, really? poo poo, that does limit its usefulness an awful lot. I mean, flip and re-cut is still an option but I wouldn't want to be doing that for everything.
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Sep 27, 2020 15:38
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I'm using a 10" Kobalt slider and a 12" fixed. The slider will cut a 12" wide board, while the Bosch 12" will top out at 7 1/4" wide board. Regardless how finely I tune the 10" it will not cut as cleanly, sharply, or squarely as the 12" does. So I keep a generic blade on the 10" slider and use a fine tooth Forrest blade on the 12" for pretty much all my finish cuts. Maybe if I had a Festool Kapex the slider would cut as cleanly as the fixed, but I can't justify $1500 on a miter saw.
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Sep 27, 2020 15:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What, really? poo poo, that does limit its usefulness an awful lot. I mean, flip and re-cut is still an option but I wouldn't want to be doing that for everything. Yeah, for rough construction stuff, which is all I really use 2x6 for, the part it doesn't cut is small enough that it just breaks off, and I can make it break off with the offcut, but yeah, you're cutting with mostly just half the blade. I got it when all I was doing was rough construction stuff, and it's been Fine. More capacity would be nice, but I also have a table saw and a crosscut sled. The dust collection is rear end, but my understanding about miter saw dust collection is that it's rear end unless it's a Kapex or you build a ridiculous hood around it and use a real 4" DC.
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Sep 27, 2020 15:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What, really? poo poo, that does limit its usefulness an awful lot. I mean, flip and re-cut is still an option but I wouldn't want to be doing that for everything. Dude a 10" blade has a center arbor, it's not held in there by magic. Even if you tilt a board, which is dangerous, you're not getting much more than 6" cut. I think Hitachi or Makita or both used to make a 14" or 15" miter saw, and that was kinda scary. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 17:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have a non-sliding miter saw, and IMO such tools absolutely pass the "last me a few years at the hobbyist level" tier. The one linked has a 10" blade, which means it can cut probably 9"-wide boards. That's not everything, but it's a lot of boards especially these days when wide boards are rarer and more expensive. And of course you can cut through most of the board, flip it, then finish the cut; with some practice you can do this with enough precision that there's no detectable variation in the edge. I've also heard of people tilting the board up while the saw is running to continue the cut, but I haven't tried it personally. I’d like to keep it under $150 if at all possible- I’ve also looked on Craigslist and Letgo for used saws but there really isn’t that much out there. This one is sliding and a little cheaper that the Hitachi after coupon, but I know Harbor Freight can be really hit or miss with power tools. https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 17:30
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Rock My Socks! posted:I’d like to keep it under $150 if at all possible- I’ve also looked on Craigslist and Letgo for used saws but there really isn’t that much out there. What're you actually planning to cut with this? Do you need to cut boards wider than a 2x8? Personally I'd recommend you just go with a 12'' non-slider vs a cheap 10'' slider, plenty of serious wood workers just stick with that and use other methods to cut bigger boards at an angle. I will say even a $500 10'' slider has compromises, I've been building a project that involves 4x material, and I have to flip the pieces to complete a cut due to limited cutting depth on a 10''. I went with a 10'' based off a recommendation of an acquaintance who's a much more serious wood worker than me, the justification being less deflection from the smaller blade, but kind of regret it. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 18:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude a 10" blade has a center arbor, it's not held in there by magic. Even if you tilt a board, which is dangerous, you're not getting much more than 6" cut. Yeah, I know, I just didn't realize how big a difference it's made. It's been awhile since I used my own miter saw. Mea culpa.
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Sep 27, 2020 18:29
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Elem7 posted:What're you actually planning to cut with this? Do you need to cut boards wider than a 2x8? Interesting, I can juuuust cut a 4x4 on my 10" non-slider. But yeah, if you have or plan to get a table saw, I wouldn't worry about cut capacity on the miter saw much. I really only use mine for initial breakdown, because it's easier to crosscut long boards on the miter saw than on my table saw. For most cuts I'm trying to do with precision, I'm going to use my table saw crosscut sled.
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Sep 27, 2020 18:43
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Just to be clear I loving hate sliders because they are dust projection monsters and as noted by others in here the accuracy and repeatability on them varies even at the top end. Mine stays stored unless I'm installing flooring or trim in the house. I crosscut with a combination of hand mitre box, a track saw + crosscut jig, and the bandsaw. Just depends on what is most convenient at the time. The reason for this variation is I have a shooting board and shoot the end of nearly every board. I'm not in a hurry and I prefer the control and consistency this gives me.
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Sep 27, 2020 19:55
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