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TastyShrimpPlatter posted:3 different motherboards from different manufacturers, all manifesting the same weird-rear end problem and I can't seem to find anyone else who's having it. This is really weird. Long shot, but can you share pictures of everything installed in the case? GPU in the troublesome PCIe slot, please
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Sep 30, 2020 06:03
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TastyShrimpPlatter posted:3 different motherboards from different manufacturers, all manifesting the same weird-rear end problem and I can't seem to find anyone else who's having it. Have you tried full uninstalling nvidia drivers and reinstalling? Like Uninstall, reboot, download and install again?
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Sep 30, 2020 06:14
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:This is really weird. Long shot, but can you share pictures of everything installed in the case? GPU in the troublesome PCIe slot, please Here's the current mess. I got tired of pulling everything back out, so I tried to the minimal install this time  I tried swapping the GPU between the 1080, a Geforce RTX 660 TI, and two different EVGA Geforce 970 cards. All of these cards work just fine in the other PC I have. I even tried holding the cards at various slight angles to see if it was a contact issue At this point I've tried the following motherboards and have gotten the exact same symptoms Asus ROG STRIX Z490-E GAMING ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Gigabyte Z490 AORUS ELITE AC ATX LGA1200 Motherboard MSI MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Current Parts List PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-10700K 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240L RGB V2 65.59 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z490-E GAMING ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Samsung 960 PRO 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply *edit* Kingnothing posted:Have you tried full uninstalling nvidia drivers and reinstalling? Like Uninstall, reboot, download and install again? Very first thing I tried. Safe mode, uninstall with DDU. Start back up and install latest drivers. As soon as windows attempted to load them up, the display driver crashes Other things I've tried: Swapping out PSU cables Swapping out PSU Disabling XMP Updating BIOS to the latest Setting PCIe to gen 3 in the bios Setting PCIe to gen 2 in the bios Resetting the BIOS Disabling the integrated graphics in the bios TastyShrimpPlatter fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Sep 30, 2020 |
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Sep 30, 2020 06:20
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Are you certain something on the case or a loose fan wire isn’t shorting it somewhere? Either you need to buy a Powerball ticket or it seems to me like there is something wrong with the case: it’s the only constant for failures, right? The PSU is fine, both rails to the GPU isolated, and the GPUs work in other systems? Maybe an over tightened screw or a loose part of the back panel protector? Did the case have pre-installed risers for the mobo and could there be one that isn’t supposed to be there? Grasping at vines for ya: hope it helps!
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Sep 30, 2020 06:33
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Any suggestions for a case without a side window that will fit my soon-to-arrive (lol) 3080 (L=320 W=129 H=55 mm)?
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Sep 30, 2020 11:50
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fuf posted:Any suggestions for a case without a side window that will fit my soon-to-arrive (lol) 3080 (L=320 W=129 H=55 mm)? Meshify S2 Unsurprisingly it's pretty big. The smaller Meshify C only fits 315 though.
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Sep 30, 2020 11:59
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sean10mm posted:Meshify S2 Sold! Thank you.
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Sep 30, 2020 12:05
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Meshify S2 also has better stock fans than the C so the markup isn't quite as bad as it looks at first glance.
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Sep 30, 2020 12:15
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Is there a consensus on the best-prebuilt tower for basically just browsing and using Office? My uncle sent me this, but it seems like there are probably much better deals out there. https://www.costco.com/dell-inspiron-desktop---10th-gen-intel-core-i5-10400.product.100572502.html $600 for an i5 with 12gb RAM.
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Sep 30, 2020 17:34
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tuyop posted:Yeah it does idle at around 40. It's just never at idle! Task manager says 3% but Ryzen Master says like constant boost. For anyone interested in this, I ran Malwarebytes since I was kind of suspicious and it says it detected 4 "Trojan bitcoinminers". Don't know how that's possible, I keep this computer super legit for work reasons but it quarantined those things and now everything is working beautifully, hanging out at 35-45C every time I glance over and clock speeds around 600-1500MHz. Thanks for the help everyone! Next up is some wireless interface surgery 
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Sep 30, 2020 18:05
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tuyop posted:For anyone interested in this, I ran Malwarebytes since I was kind of suspicious and it says it detected 4 "Trojan bitcoinminers". Don't know how that's possible, I keep this computer super legit for work reasons but it quarantined those things and now everything is working beautifully, hanging out at 35-45C every time I glance over and clock speeds around 600-1500MHz. Thanks for the help everyone! Next up is some wireless interface surgery Get an antivirus that does advanced threat defense/active threat scanning where it scans webpage content as it streams in.
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Sep 30, 2020 18:08
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dms666 posted:Is there a consensus on the best-prebuilt tower for basically just browsing and using Office? My uncle sent me this, but it seems like there are probably much better deals out there. Decommissioned office pcs. Somebody found this yesterday, i5-6500 8gb of ram for just under $300 which will be fine for browsing and word processing. It's not sold by newegg which is usually a red flag but there are so many of these systems out there is probably just some liquidator.
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Sep 30, 2020 18:11
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Some Goon posted:Decommissioned office pcs. Somebody found this yesterday, i5-6500 8gb of ram for just under $300 which will be fine for browsing and word processing. It's not sold by newegg which is usually a red flag but there are so many of these systems out there is probably just some liquidator. Awesome, I'll look into those. Seem like a much better deal. Thanks!
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Sep 30, 2020 18:16
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tuyop posted:For anyone interested in this, I ran Malwarebytes since I was kind of suspicious and it says it detected 4 "Trojan bitcoinminers". Don't know how that's possible, I keep this computer super legit for work reasons but it quarantined those things and now everything is working beautifully, hanging out at 35-45C every time I glance over and clock speeds around 600-1500MHz. Thanks for the help everyone! Next up is some wireless interface surgery Yikes. If I really did't know how bitcoin miners got installed to my system, I would be looking the nuke it from orbit option because I couldn't be sure the rest wasn't compromised. TastyShrimpPlatter posted:3 different motherboards from different manufacturers, all manifesting the same weird-rear end problem and I can't seem to find anyone else who's having it. The top / primary GPU slot is directly connected to the CPU, while most other slots go through the chipset. So that would actually be a consistent reason for the problem being the CPU. edit: also that's a hell of a weird problem & crazy troubleshooting challenge! buy a lottery ticket, maybe you'll get the 1/1000000 in the other direction? Klyith fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Sep 30, 2020 |
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Sep 30, 2020 18:23
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dms666 posted:Awesome, I'll look into those. Seem like a much better deal. Thanks! You can probably do even better than that on eBay - I recently picked up an i5-6500 w/ 8 GB RAM in a SFF case (Dell Optiplex 7040) off eBay from an electronics recycler for 140. No HDD, but even after dropping in a 40 dollar SSD that’s a more than capable system for word processing and web browsing. Check if there are any recyclers near you (sort by distance), most of them will do local pickup for eBay orders which will save you a decent chunk of cash. Something like this or this would be an example. A lot of these sellers will also accept an offer at ~10-15% under their buy it now price, so don’t feel bad offering them a slower amount. (And once you find a local recycler you can always keep an eye on their stock if they don’t have what you need right away and grab it when it appears.)
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Sep 30, 2020 18:30
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Klyith posted:Yikes. If I really did't know how bitcoin miners got installed to my system, I would be looking the nuke it from orbit option because I couldn't be sure the rest wasn't compromised. Oh no I'm pretty sure I know the source and that's not a vector anymore.
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Sep 30, 2020 18:36
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Klyith posted:The top / primary GPU slot is directly connected to the CPU, while most other slots go through the chipset. So that would actually be a consistent reason for the problem being the CPU. I am quoting this and adding my own problem to see if anyone has any ideas for help. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TfXpjp (My build, case actually a p400a) When waking up from Sleep my main monitor (a 34uw - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798Q8KG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) would get discolored green with two purple lines down the middle. Usually have to unplug/plug in to get it back to normal. I disabled Sleep and this no longer occurred. I hooked up a TV yesterday and all worked well for a few hours (Kept 34 plugged in and mirrored to the TV). When I went to plug in my 2nd smaller monitor, the main screen was discolored with lines and nothing I could do would fix it. Restart, re-plug, reinstalled drivers a few times, different driver version... etc. I finally fixed the issue by moving the card into a different PCI slot and all seems well for now. I am going to try uninstalling the drivers in safemode, use DDU program, then move the card back into the primary slot and install and see how things go. Since it appears to work fine in another slot, how can I go about diagnosing the issue further (CPU vs Mobo)? I am experiencing no other problems other than this. Unfortunately I do not have other hardware to test with.
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Sep 30, 2020 19:25
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Does it happen on other monitors / with different cables / plugged into a different output?
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Sep 30, 2020 19:51
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manwithoutskin posted:I am quoting this and adding my own problem to see if anyone has any ideas for help. There’s still too many factors. The fact that it happens on two monitors indicates it’s not the monitor. Did you use the same cable between the two monitors, or the same port? If the answer is no that rules out the cables and ports on the card. What that leaves you with is software, GPU, Mobo, CPU, PSU, thermals, or Ram (probably unlikely as it’s not a freeze). I don’t really think it’s software or drivers as it’s only happening in one slot. Did you reseat the card in the main PCI-e slot? Did you reseat your PSU cables at both the GPU and PSU sides? If it’s working in slot B it could have been as simple as a reseat. I also wouldn’t expect it to be the GPU if it’s working in slot B. If I were you (and I had already reseated the GPU and associated PSU cables), I’d stress the gently caress out of the card and verify A.) it doesn’t happen in slot b B.) your temps aren’t crazy enough to cause it to wack out If all is good, you’re down to PSU, Mobo, CPU. If your PSU isn’t old I’d probably start with a Mobo RMA as that’s most likely cause here. CPU failure is pretty uncommon.
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Sep 30, 2020 20:10
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^^^edit: I think it's the same monitor all the time, if "34" and "main screen" are the same thing. OP wasn't terribly clear about it though.manwithoutskin posted:discolored green with two purple lines down the middle This is very symptomatic of the monitor itself being the problem -- discoloration and vertical lines are classic signs of the display controller or panel having problems. Frequently it's an intermittent thing, or will start infrequent and happen more and more often when a monitor is on its way out. Or even be temperature based -- lots of stuff inside a LCD panel isn't soldered, because there are too many tiny connections, so it's just pressed / glued contacts. Thermal expansion as the monitor warms up can make the problem happen or go away. My guess would be that changing hardware around inside the PC was coincidental to the problem being temporarily fixed. You can try different inputs to see if only one has issues, but the vertical lines is a strong feature of the panel itself being at fault. (And if the monitor is still under warranty, start looking into that.) Klyith fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Sep 30, 2020 |
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Sep 30, 2020 20:21
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Oh, I didn’t realize that. If it’s always been the same monitor that’s giving the lines, and never the secondary or TV, and especially if you’ve tried different ports on the card, the monitor is the likely the cause here.
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Sep 30, 2020 20:32
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Thanks for the replies all, yes it was the same 34 inch monitor with the issues, sorry for being unclear. I've had the monitor for three weeks. I ran it two weeks on a laptop through HDMI with no issues. I swapped it to the PC and experienced issues almost immediately. I did not re-seat it into the main PCIe slot before moving it to the second. I will start there and work my way down the list. Everything has worked swimmingly for hours and multiple days of use since being moved to the second slot. The two weeks free and clear of issues with the laptop, and working fine since the new slot, has me believing it is not the monitor (or associated cables) itself, however it all could be coincidental like you said.
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Sep 30, 2020 20:44
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manwithoutskin posted:Thanks for the replies all, yes it was the same 34 inch monitor with the issues, sorry for being unclear. I've had the monitor for three weeks. I ran it two weeks on a laptop through HDMI with no issues. I swapped it to the PC and experienced issues almost immediately. I did not re-seat it into the main PCIe slot before moving it to the second. I will start there and work my way down the list. Everything has worked swimmingly for hours and multiple days of use since being moved to the second slot. The two weeks free and clear of issues with the laptop, and working fine since the new slot, has me believing it is not the monitor (or associated cables) itself, however it all could be coincidental like you said. Could be a bad port on the monitor, try running the monitor via HDMI to the PC, versus DisplayPort.
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Sep 30, 2020 20:47
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manwithoutskin posted:Thanks for the replies all, yes it was the same 34 inch monitor with the issues, sorry for being unclear. I've had the monitor for three weeks. I ran it two weeks on a laptop through HDMI with no issues. I swapped it to the PC and experienced issues almost immediately. I did not re-seat it into the main PCIe slot before moving it to the second. I will start there and work my way down the list. Everything has worked swimmingly for hours and multiple days of use since being moved to the second slot. The two weeks free and clear of issues with the laptop, and working fine since the new slot, has me believing it is not the monitor (or associated cables) itself, however it all could be coincidental like you said. Most of my advice is useless because it’s all the same monitor. (Except MAYBE the card reseat/PSU cables reseat). You should start by ruling out the monitor and HDMI cable. Those are fairly easy. In all honestly, if you’ve only had the monitor for three weeks I’d go exchange it now before you can’t, as that’s a very likely cause and you don’t want to troubleshoot passed the return period and have to RMA
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Sep 30, 2020 20:59
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Can I generally assume a monitor has a line out jack if a store page doesn't specify? I'm looking at the Acer XV270U BMIIPRX, and I'm pretty sure it fits my needs if I can connect my speakers to it. I basically want to be able to use it in portrait mode, connect my PC and Switch to it, and use one set of speakers for both. Normally I'd just go to the monitor thread, but they've been ignoring me.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:02
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If it doesn't say I would assume it didn't, but you could try to find a pic of the connector panel.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:07
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unpronounceable posted:Can I generally assume a monitor has a line out jack if a store page doesn't specify? I'm looking at the Acer XV270U BMIIPRX, and I'm pretty sure it fits my needs if I can connect my speakers to it. I basically want to be able to use it in portrait mode, connect my PC and Switch to it, and use one set of speakers for both. The store page says it has "2 x HDMI, DisplayPort, Audio" connectors. Going to assume the Audio connector is a 3.5mm passthrough from the HDMI.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:19
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unpronounceable posted:Can I generally assume a monitor has a line out jack if a store page doesn't specify? I'm looking at the Acer XV270U BMIIPRX, and I'm pretty sure it fits my needs if I can connect my speakers to it. I basically want to be able to use it in portrait mode, connect my PC and Switch to it, and use one set of speakers for both. I’m too lazy to do it for you, but just go dig up the manual on acer’s page and look there. Or look at the specs on the acer page. If it’s not there it doesn’t have it.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:25
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Kingnothing posted:Most of my advice is useless because it’s all the same monitor. (Except MAYBE the card reseat/PSU cables reseat). Welp, as luck would have it I got home and booted up to the same problem with the card still in the 3rd PCI slot. https://imgur.com/a/AtPkMae This is happening with a displayport - displayport cable. Hooking up the monitor to HDMI I have zero issues. The only other cable I have on hand to test was a displayport to HDMI cable. The monitor would not recognize any input whatsoever if the displayport was plugged into the monitor with the HDMI in the PC. It would work just fine with the HDMI in the monitor and the displayport in the PC. Is this enough to definitively say the port on the monitor is bad? I'll be able to test with another displayport cable tomorrow. I bought this monitor because it was gSync compatible and it looks great, when it works! Need Displayport for that so unless the cable is the culprit a return is in order. manwithoutskin fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Sep 30, 2020 |
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Sep 30, 2020 23:38
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Kingnothing posted:I’m too lazy to do it for you, but just go dig up the manual on acer’s page and look there. Or look at the specs on the acer page. If it’s not there it doesn’t have it. I tried, but I couldn't find a single reference to it on the Acer website. Hell, one of the few references to that model I could find says it has a 144hz refresh rate and no pivot, so I dunno what's going on. I found someone on reddit ordered one, so I'll see if they respond, and if not, I'll find something else.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:43
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manwithoutskin posted:Welp, as luck would have it I got home and booted up to the same problem with the card still in the 3rd PCI slot. Display port to HDMI cables are directional, they don't work backwards.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:54
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gently caress me. My 3080 has been sitting still since Monday and isn't coming until Friday, but at least I finally got all my new system components today. Nope, newegg sent everything I ordered from them except the CPU. Told them to give me a refund and gonna grab it from best buy tomorrow.
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Oct 1, 2020 00:24
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Stan Taylor posted:Is this only like two years old? I'd try just getting the monitors and seeing how it works for you, then going for a gpu if you feel like you need to. I'm still using the PC I built in 2014 , though I upgraded it with a 1070 a while back. Does the two screen thing just fine, and can run most VR games too. If you're mostly playing games from a decade ago, I don't think you'll see much benefit upgrading. It is two years old, correct. I will test Cyberpunk on the new monitor and if all goes well, won't upgrade. Considering what you said, I might even upgrade to 1660S or 2060 (once prices go down after the 3000 series gets some stock) next year and just keep the rig for another 2+ years. The reason I'm saying this is that I literally just discovered GPU check today and it's saying that a 2600+1660S/2060 combo performs 1440p admirably on high settings. I was never one for max settings, I was raised playing Oldblivion. Just wondering if it's worth it to pay the extra 100 euro on a 2060 over a 1660S. Is there anywhere in europe I can get a used card for cheap? Prices on amazon just don't seem to go down. School Nickname fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 00:44
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School Nickname posted:Is there anywhere in europe I can get a used card for cheap? Prices on amazon just don't seem to go down. My local Facebook marketplace is flooded with 20x series cards atm
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Oct 1, 2020 01:33
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Some Goon posted:Macrium is the good one. So all my parts have come in and everything seems to be working  However, now it's time to use Macrium Reflect to make a new OS boot drive and start using that, but a couple questions:1) The new drive isn't C:, since obviously that still exists. Is there a way to switch it over to C after switching to it as the boot drive and formatting the old one, or does this really not matter? 2) The new drive is bigger than the old one, and after migrating the new drive has an unused partition. I'd prefer to just to expand one of my other partitions, but don't see any obvious way to do this in Macrium (the free edition, at least?) Is there another program that's good for this? Googling reveals lots of sketchy-looking programs
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Oct 1, 2020 02:20
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manwithoutskin posted:Welp, as luck would have it I got home and booted up to the same problem with the card still in the 3rd PCI slot. It is not enough to say the port is the issue. Especially due to the intermittency of the issue. The new DP cable should help rule out your cable. My advice to exchange the monitor if possible still stands.
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Oct 1, 2020 02:29
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You can change drive letters from the disk management utility, just search it in the taskbar. I have no idea what the impact of messing with the C: drive would be or if there is one. You should also be able to expand the partition from there.
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Oct 1, 2020 02:31
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I'm in the process of building my first PC and having some issues. Below are the components I'm working with.. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QKQbn7 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard: ASRock B550M-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card: Zotac GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB MINI Video Card Case: In Win A1 Plus Mini ITX Tower Case w/650 W Power Supply Addition Case Fans: In Win Sirius Loop ASL120 x2 So far I think I have successfully installed the CPU + heatsink, RAM, and GPU to the mounted motherboard. I have been able to daisy chain the 4 case fans RGBs into the single header on the mobo. I have attempted daisy chaining the 4 case fans power cables into the CHA_FAN1 header. When I booted the PC, the CPU fan started spinning, RGB LEDs lit up on all 4 fans, but none of the case fans were spinning, boot screen didn't display, and top side case power button wouldn't turn off PC (it turned the PC on, though). I've tried plugging a single fan in to the CHA_FAN1 header with no success. I've tried 2 fans in each of the headers (my mobo has 2 CHA_FAN headers), no luck. The case came with an adapter (sorry don't know the name) that plugs into sata on one end and a male 3 prong on the other end. I can't seem to figure out how to get it to work and I don't want to control my case fans with an external button. I don't want to give up and take it somewhere, but I didn't think figuring out fans would be as frustrating as it is,especially because the RGB aspect is happy. I don't know why the rest isn't.
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Oct 1, 2020 03:18
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CodfishCartographer posted:So all my parts have come in and everything seems to be working If the partition you want to make bigger is on the end of the drive, like this  you can make it bigger with windows Disk Management: 1. right click start, select Disk Management 2. right click the drive and choose Extend Volume If there is another partition after it (I think win10 changed to EFI-OS-recovery instead of recovery-EFI-OS), you can either use a partition editor like partmagic or gparted, or re-image the drive. There is a way to resize the partition as you are copying it in macrium, it's just a bit more fiddly than the one-button drive copy. Drag partitions across one at a time, and when you get to the one that you want bigger, use the Properties action to make it bigger (less the size of remaining partitions). Also re: C label, when you boot from the new drive it should take C. If the new drive isn't C you are still booting from the old drive.
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Oct 1, 2020 03:21
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Alokgen posted:When I booted the PC, the CPU fan started spinning, RGB LEDs lit up on all 4 fans, but none of the case fans were spinning, boot screen didn't display, and top side case power button wouldn't turn off PC (it turned the PC on, though). My starting assumption would be that the fans and the no video / failure to post are separate issues. Unfortunately that board doesn't have diagnostic leds, so figuring out what's up will be a process. I would strip the fans, rgb, and all non-essentials for this. When pushing the power button didn't turn the PC off, was that just a push or a multi-second hold you did? The first is expected. Also, you did you plug the monitor into the video card and not the video port on the mobo right?
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Oct 1, 2020 03:32
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