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Methanar posted:don't program. I'm not programming professionally at all, I'm doing an information security masters to dovetail with my current career and had to take some leveling classes to start. I liked it so much I just kept going on with the undergrad too. I was just a little disappointed how limited the undergrad classes turned out to be. (no one should do this my employer just pays infinite money for their employees' tuition)
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Oct 13, 2020 04:35
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hooah posted:This is not always very useful advice. I never have any idea what to make for myself. Anything I might do, someone else has already done. It's like telling someone "just write something!" Do a game jam? Eg Ludum Dare? (I'd suggest Global Game Jam, but I doubt the pandemic will be over before the next one  )
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Oct 13, 2020 04:44
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I'm looking to upgrade my wireless router for my 2500sq gt home. I am looking at the Tp-Link Ax1500 and AX1800. Will the 1800 give me better coverage? Why is it almost twice the cost for a marginal speed gain? I do not even have gigabyte speeds so that won't be a big factor for me, but the range I do care about.
Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Oct 13, 2020 |
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Oct 13, 2020 12:54
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Manager Hoyden posted:I'm not programming professionally at all, I'm doing an information security masters to dovetail with my current career and had to take some leveling classes to start. I liked it so much I just kept going on with the undergrad too. I was just a little disappointed how limited the undergrad classes turned out to be. There once was a good tutorial on the web that was a play on the "learn C++ in 24 hours" books. It was called something like, "Learn to be a good programmer in 10 years". My Google Fu has failed me. Really, the only way you'll be a good programmer is to work under someone who follows good programming practices. I made so many working projects by myself that followed what are known as "anti-patterns" and if you asked me if I was good, I would have told you I was the poo poo. Who needs frameworks? Proper database design? A "Full stack" that works well with itself? Whatever you have that works is good enough. Sadly, some of the poorly written projects actually do become successful, at least until the "genius" boy programmer decides he's tired of working on it. Programming is a team sport. I've met lots of programmers that object to that statement, and they're always the ones who leave behind piles of unmaintainable turds because their "clever" solution isn't as adaptable to changing circumstances.
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Oct 13, 2020 13:47
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm looking to upgrade my wireless router for my 2500sq gt home. I am looking at the Tp-Link Ax1500 and AX1800. Will the 1800 give me better coverage? Why is it almost twice the cost for a marginal speed gain? I do not even have gigabyte speeds so that won't be a big factor for me, but the range I do care about. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319 Home networking thread with a good informative OP
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Oct 13, 2020 15:55
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I have 3 dice, with weighted odds, the first dice rolls 11 - 110, the 2nd rolls 51 - 150, and the third rolls 61-160, how do I calculate the chance for each of these to roll higher then the other two?
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Oct 13, 2020 18:48
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Boba Pearl posted:I have 3 dice, with weighted odds, the first dice rolls 11 - 110, the 2nd rolls 51 - 150, and the third rolls 61-160, how do I calculate the chance for each of these to roll higher then the other two? So using anydice, I can get you to comparing the individual dice against each other. There's ought to be a way to compare one dice against the other two but that's currently beyond my abilities with the program.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:00
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Boba Pearl posted:I have 3 dice, with weighted odds, the first dice rolls 11 - 110, the 2nd rolls 51 - 150, and the third rolls 61-160, how do I calculate the chance for each of these to roll higher then the other two? I'm going to assume here that you meant that the first dice has a uniform chance of returning an integer in the range 11 through 110 and so on because otherwise I don't think it's a solvable problem without real analysis (which is either where math ends or begins depending on your perspective). Now, if all else fails, count. Any roll where #1 gets 61 or lower has 0% chance of being higher than both the other dice, so pr(#1 > any (#2,#3)) is less than 0.5 fer sure. anything less <= 61? 0/100 chance it's higher than #3, don't need to worry about #2 62? 1/100 chance it's higher than #3, 10/100 chance it's higher than #2 63? 2/100 chance it's higher than #3, 11/100 chance it's higher than #2 so it's the sum of n(n+10) for n in 1..49 divided by 100*100*49 * (1/100) <-- chance you will roll 60+N on the first dice which I could work out in excel except there's a formula for sum 1..x of integers due to Gauss .. it's x*(x+1)*0.5, so the answer is ( 49*50*0.5 * 49*50*0.5 + 10*49*50*0.5 ) / (100 * 100 * 100 * 49) which is a number of some kind, which is about 3% for the first die if I did your homework correctly. Repeat the process in reverse for the 3rd die: 151-160 if it rolls in this range (prob 10%) probability > both others = 1 150 (1-0/100) * (1-1/100) * (1/100) = 0.99% through 111 (1-0/100) * ( 1-40/100) * (1/100) = 0.60% then 110: (1-1/100)*(1-41/100) * (1/100) and so on until you get to 61, where it's 61: (1-40/100) * (1-81/100) *(1/100) so its 0.1 + some other complicated poo poo. Just do a formula in google sheets if you can't afford a semi-pirated copy of excel or whatever. it should be about 0.1 + 3/16ths + maybe another 1/16th so somewhere in the range of 0.35? At this point, you can use the fact that pr #2 wins = 1 - pr( #1 wins )- pr ( #3 wins ) or just give up, whichever is easier.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:16
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To save people the trouble, this was discussed a lot over in the math thread where it was crossposted.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:20
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Thank you everyone for your help, I ended up getting some help in the math thread, as I realized shortly after posting that'd be a better place for it!
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Oct 13, 2020 21:42
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Are there any Twitter clients that let you follow people without having an account? I blammed my account because I always end up just screaming at idiots and Nazis, and it's not great for my mental health. But there are some good posters who I want to follow.
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Oct 13, 2020 22:14
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Hyperlynx posted:Are there any Twitter clients that let you follow people without having an account? Do you not have it in you to make a lurk-only private account?
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Oct 14, 2020 00:53
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Hyperlynx posted:Are there any Twitter clients that let you follow people without having an account? iirc all of the useful APIs for that require user authentication, and the site is made to be unfriendly to scraping
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Oct 14, 2020 01:00
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McCracAttack posted:Do you not have it in you to make a lurk-only private account? No. Past experience has shown me that I just cannot keep my drat mouth shut. I really need something without the "post" button entirely.
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Oct 14, 2020 01:09
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Hyperlynx posted:No. Past experience has shown me that I just cannot keep my drat mouth shut. I really need something without the "post" button entirely. Then outside of using an atrocious handle you would never dare use to speak to someone, I've got nothing. I know you know this, but there's that old saying about never wrestling with a pig. You just get dirty and the pig enjoys it.
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Oct 14, 2020 01:15
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If your twitter account is banned does it just not let you make tweets or does it also restrict following
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Oct 14, 2020 01:29
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Based on what people say in other threads, it actually prevents you from seeing someone's tweets if they block you. Which is ridiculous like just log out lol. I'll admit I don't get twitter at all but if you don't want to tweet why on earth would you want an account?
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Oct 14, 2020 02:00
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Hyperlynx posted:Are there any Twitter clients that let you follow people without having an account? You could make a Twitter List from an account, make it public and then log out. That would allow you to curate a list of people to follow but you would have to log into anything to actually respond. I think you could only do this from web though.
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Oct 14, 2020 02:12
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alnilam posted:I'll admit I don't get twitter at all but if you don't want to tweet why on earth would you want an account? I use it like a poor man's Google Reader. Depending on your interests you can follow a bunch of relevant accounts and you get news and updates quick. Also at some point it just reached a critical mass where like, that's where everyone is.
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Oct 14, 2020 02:13
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FCKGW posted:You could make a Twitter List from an account, make it public and then log out. That would allow you to curate a list of people to follow but you would have to log into anything to actually respond. This is a good reminder that if you have a Twitter account, you can check which lists you have been added to and you should do so every now and then to make sure you aren't on any lists you don't want, especially if you tend to cop abuse on there.
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Oct 14, 2020 02:44
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I follow a couple of Twitter accounts with one of Inoreader's paid plans. If you search 'Twitter to RSS' you can find a few different options that'll work with your reader of choice.
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Oct 14, 2020 03:12
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If I buy a MacBook Pro from my local computer store can I then immediately go to the Apple Store and have AppleCare put on it without having to take it out of the box?
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Oct 14, 2020 04:02
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Thirteen Orphans posted:If I buy a MacBook Pro from my local computer store can I then immediately go to the Apple Store and have AppleCare put on it without having to take it out of the box? I'm not sure what you're asking here. You can put applecare on any apple device you legitimately have bought in the last 2 months or so. Just go online to apple.com and do it. To answer your weird question....yeah? Since the box you haven't opened has the model and serial number on it. I'm still not sure why you're bringing it to the apple store though. Are you concerned about the provenance of the device you are buying? Because my advice is to not receive stolen goods. Motronic fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 05:20
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The obvious explanation for not wanting to open the box is that it is to be a gift.
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Oct 14, 2020 05:28
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Motronic posted:I'm not sure what you're asking here. You can put applecare on anything apple device you legitimately have bought in the last 2 months or so. Just go online to apple.com and do it. Sorry, perhaps I should have been specific, I was going to get a MacBook Pro for my mother but our Apple store doesn’t have the one I need at the moment. (I don’t want to have it shipped and spoil the surprise.) Our local computer shop does have it, though, so I was asking if I could get AppleCare for it by taking it to the Apple store. I didn’t know you could do it online, I’m not an Apple guy.
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Oct 14, 2020 05:29
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Thirteen Orphans posted:Sorry, perhaps I should have been specific, I was going to get a MacBook Pro for my mother but our Apple store doesn’t have the one I need at the moment. (I don’t want to have it shipped and spoil the surprise.) Our local computer shop does have it, though, so I was asking if I could get AppleCare for it by taking it to the Apple store. I didn’t know you could do it online, I’m not an Apple guy. Yeah, you can just buy an apple care thing (a literal box in a store or a code online) for the correct class of device you want to cover. Platystemon posted:The obvious explanation for not wanting to open the box is that it is to be a gift. You don't have to open the box to know the serial number on like.....basically any laptop in the last 10+ years?
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Oct 14, 2020 05:41
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Cordless power tools list their power in volts, corded tools in amps. Why? You can't really tell which is more powerful, an 18v cordless jigsaw or an 8 amp corded.
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Oct 15, 2020 01:05
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Those are both proxies for power anyway. The European Union had to step in and ban vacuum cleaners from advertising watts. More is not necessarily better. For cordless tools, one complicating factor is brushed versus brushless motors. It’s best to do comparisons in the effectiveness and speed at doing an actual job. Cordless tool voltage ratings have their own oddities. What some manufacturers call “20 V” is the same number of cells in series (five) as what other manufacturers call “18 V”. One would expect that “12 V” tools would have two-thirds the voltage of “18 V” tools, but this is not the case. Everyone pulls the overrating trick with those. Their batteries have three cell in series. If they were counted at the same ratio as their “18 V” brethren, they would be labelled “10.8 V”.
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Oct 15, 2020 01:35
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regulargonzalez posted:Cordless power tools list their power in volts, corded tools in amps. Why? You can't really tell which is more powerful, an 18v cordless jigsaw or an 8 amp corded. For corded I assume it's so you know what all you can run before tripping a breaker? For comparing power I'd just compare the actual stats of the tools, like torque/rpm for a drill or stroke length/spm for a reciprocating saw
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Oct 15, 2020 02:57
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Thanks to both. I know there's more to it than the advertised power rating (and, incidentally, newer cordless tools are way better than they were a decade ago when corded were always better. But my new DeWalt 20v cordless jigsaw kicks the ever loving poo poo out of my old 3.9 amp corded Makita), was just curious why they do so. Thinking about it more, my personal guess is that for cordless, the most important thing to know is the battery type you need. Depending on the tool, and using DeWalt for an example, the cordless tool might need a 12v, 20v, or 60v battery (for their reciprocating saw iirc) and you can't use different voltage batteries for a given tool. So they advertise that loud and clear, while at the same time DeWalt has at least 3 or 4 20v cordless drills at different price points and with different amounts of power. For corded, they all have the same power delivery system so there's no point trumpeting that and instead they market the amps (which, as said, isn't necessarily completely equivalent to usable power but it's at least something).
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Oct 15, 2020 04:31
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regulargonzalez posted:Thanks to both. I know there's more to it than the advertised power rating (and, incidentally, newer cordless tools are way better than they were a decade ago when corded were always better. But my new DeWalt 20v cordless jigsaw kicks the ever loving poo poo out of my old 3.9 amp corded Makita), was just curious why they do so. One complication in comparing corded to battery is that I think all of the battery tools (at least dewalt) are brushless motors, while corded are brushed, and iirc brushless motors are 1) generally more torquey than brushed for a given amp setting, but also for brushless 2) torque isn't necessarily directly proportional to amps. So you can directly compare corded tools via amps, but you can't compared corded and cordless via amps, and might not even be able to compare cordless to cordless via amps.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:13
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dupersaurus posted:One complication in comparing corded to battery is that I think all of the battery tools (at least dewalt) are brushless motors, while corded are brushed https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...780C2/202922391 if you buy the milwaukee FUEL-branded tools they are always brushless, their non-FUEL m18 line has both kinds of motors, the brushless ones will have a stamp on them indicating such
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Oct 15, 2020 14:25
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dupersaurus posted:One complication in comparing corded to battery is that I think all of the battery tools (at least dewalt) are brushless motors, DeWalt 20V is brushed. Dewalt 20V XR is brushless.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:07
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I'm trying to find a higher resolution image of a painting for a reference and I'm having a difficult time. I imagine it's out there somewhere, but it seems like Google images got rid of the sort by image size options in reverse image search. Any advice or suggestions? This is the best version of this i was able to find, but I'd really like a larger, higher resolution image it if possible.  Barring that, I'm basically looking for high resolution examples of late 18th to early 19th century portraiture.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:36
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dog nougat posted:I'm trying to find a higher resolution image of a painting for a reference and I'm having a difficult time. I imagine it's out there somewhere, but it seems like Google images got rid of the sort by image size options in reverse image search. Any advice or suggestions? https://austenprose.files.wordpress.com/2019/11/7.4-daja-captain-gilbert-heathcote.jpg You can still search by small medium or large, and if you pick large they should sort by biggest first anyway.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:42
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Ok perfect. Maybe I'm just loving stupid then. 
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Oct 15, 2020 17:19
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I'm signed up to a local music venue's newsletter with my Gmail account. Today I received an email with the subject line "we miss you" and the body began by saying "we noticed you haven't opened our emails for several weeks". This is true, but do they know this because Gmail has some sort of read receipt function?
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Oct 16, 2020 00:49
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Kevin DuBrow posted:I'm signed up to a local music venue's newsletter with my Gmail account. Today I received an email with the subject line "we miss you" and the body began by saying "we noticed you haven't opened our emails for several weeks". This is true, but do they know this because Gmail has some sort of read receipt function? Super simplified: the mail the send you is in HTML, like a web page. At least one link on that email that downloads an image from a URL that is unique to you/that specific email. So if the logs of the web server that the link is on don't show it's ever been accessed they can assume you didn't open the mail (or are using mail client that blocks images).
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Oct 16, 2020 01:20
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Is there a thread for getting a reccomendation on a telescope?
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Oct 16, 2020 01:30
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Motronic posted:Super simplified: the mail the send you is in HTML, like a web page. At least one link on that email that downloads an image from a URL that is unique to you/that specific email. So if the logs of the web server that the link is on don't show it's ever been accessed they can assume you didn't open the mail (or are using mail client that blocks images).
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Oct 16, 2020 02:19
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