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Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
You absolutely have to keep an eye out and stay sharp these days. At one my FLGS there was an old guy who mentioned he was a veteran of the Eastern Front. He wasn't German so I assumed he was Red Army or similar. Then he mentioned he was a vet of Africa too. Turns out he was a Hungarian Naxi instead. Weird poo poo

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Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

Kanine posted:

ill be 100% honest here as a queer left-wing jew the absolute rabid obsession with nazi poo poo within the milhist/scale modelling community in general makes me pretty uncomfortable a lot of the time!

Yeah, there are a lot of groups that are absolutely chock-full of massive swastikas on everything (for the historical accuracy, you see!) with people openly admitting to building only German or even SS stuff.

I build German vehicles too, I just prefer them looking like this.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I have vague notions of doing Israeli or French Panthers at some point, just for the humour value of it.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
French is a good paint job for a Panther, you can also do a Soviet capture one or Cuckoo. So many possibilities!

I have a Pz.Kpfw.II in my stash right now, I might paint it as the American capture one from Tunisia.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I like how some of the surviving French ones are just "here's the German paint job, but with big tricolours and a big blue circle with ALL OF FRANCE in white on it".

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Midjack posted:

Setting aside the Nazi part, which is admittedly a big ask, some of their planes and tanks looked cool and I don’t begrudge anyone who has a couple on the shelf, especially if they have an assortment of stuff because they build what grabs their interest at a moment. Grandpa Midjack got shot down by the Germans twice and built a bunch of WWII airplane models afterwards, including a fair number of Nazi planes but he did US, UK, and Japanese stuff too. Someone who mostly or only builds Nazi stuff is suspect, and dickheads who wear SS t-shirts to their build meets can get hosed with a chainsaw.

There's an Airfix Bf 109 I keep thinking about getting specifically because it includes decals for Swiss Air Force livery.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I think the one I have floating around here has those decals, and possibly the IDF ones as well for doing an Avia S-199.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Cthulu Carl posted:

There's an Airfix Bf 109 I keep thinking about getting specifically because it includes decals for Swiss Air Force livery.

There's an Eduard double BF 109 kit that's entirely Finnish post-war markings, one of which has an extremely sharp set of racing livery on it. If I had any use for two 1/48 Messerschmidts, I'd probably grab it.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

The Tamiya 1:35 kit for the Italian Carro Armato M13/40 comes with decals to replicate what the Australians did with the tanks they captured.

I was originally planning to do mine up as Italian, but the kangaroo decals were too great to not use.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Edward models has a line of planes called "weekend edition". What does that mean?

Gervasius
Nov 2, 2010



Grimey Drawer

SkunkDuster posted:

Edward models has a line of planes called "weekend edition". What does that mean?

It's just basic kit and decals, no PE, resin, masks or other additions you may or may not need.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

SkunkDuster posted:

Edward models has a line of planes called "weekend edition". What does that mean?

If only their website explained it. Oh wait...

Eduard posted:

The Weekend edition offers a simpler and less expensive alternative to the standard ProfiPACK kits.
They provide a top quality injection molded kit at an incredibly competitive price. The Weekend edition kits contain all parts in injection molded plastic, and build one specific variant.
They contain no additional accessories, and have two marking options. These kits are designed for those modelers that don't require or want all of the "bells and whistles" of the ProfiPack kits, and are ideal for beginners and quick turnaround modelers.
These kits still can be upgraded with separately available accessory sets as, and if, desired.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

If only their website explained it. Oh wait...

Oh come on now, be nice. Dude had an honest question.

The weekend edition kits are great, as they're a really affordable way of getting great kits without all the intimidating extras. If you've got extra decals lying around, look at Eduard's "overtrees." They're literally just the kit plastic in a box. No decals, no instructions (they can be downloaded from Eduard's site). Sprue Brothers carries them.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Gewehr 43 posted:

Oh come on now, be nice. Dude had an honest question.

The weekend edition kits are great, as they're a really affordable way of getting great kits without all the intimidating extras. If you've got extra decals lying around, look at Eduard's "overtrees." They're literally just the kit plastic in a box. No decals, no instructions (they can be downloaded from Eduard's site). Sprue Brothers carries them.

I might check them out when I get through my stash a bit. Aside from the Revell and Monogram kits I built as a kid, I've only purchased Hasegawa and Tamiya kits. I've been leery of stepping outside that zone because I don't want to spend a good chunk of change on a 1:48 or 1:32 kit and have it turn out to be a crapkit.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

SkunkDuster posted:

I might check them out when I get through my stash a bit. Aside from the Revell and Monogram kits I built as a kid, I've only purchased Hasegawa and Tamiya kits. I've been leery of stepping outside that zone because I don't want to spend a good chunk of change on a 1:48 or 1:32 kit and have it turn out to be a crapkit.

Eh, best bet is to check reviews. The only two companies that I'm aware of that have consistently well-engineered kits are Tamiya and new Hasegawa. Mind you, I only build WWII airplanes, armor, and the occasional ship. Eduard usually has really good stuff, but even they put out some junk sometimes, most often when they publish a kit using another company's molds. Their P-39s fit like crap around the canopy, and I believe they are based off a Special Hobby mold, for example.

If I'm looking for something, I usually hit up scalemates to see if there are any reviews, or google "eduard [kit number] build" to see if anyone has thoughts on the quality of the build.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I generally trust Eduard, Tamiya, Hasegawa, and Trumpeter. HobbyBoss is cool but more inconsistent

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
AFV Club and Dragon have been very consistent in my experience.

boba fetacheese
Dec 12, 2000
I think basically finished my first model?

Just have to give a black coat around the sides of the base and fix the sherman to it. I'm a bad/lazy photographer, but for evidence:



Things I learnt:
  • I need to pay more attention to sanding seams. I was good with the bogies but not totally happy with the barrel or where the 2 pieces of the turret connected.
  • Tying tiny knots is hard - I dunno how ship guys do it.
  • Using MicroSol to flood to prep the surface of a model for decals results in hosed up decals and I should have bought MicroSet too.
  • I need to work on how to use the lovely static grass applicator I bought - also I need to make sure I dont electrocute myself with it again.
  • For cutting bases I should have bought a desk mounted hotwire knife instead of the handheld one I got - my edges look bad.
  • Scratchbuilding tiny wire handles to replace terrible kit details feels real good.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Question:

Is there a recommended source for custom decals ? I've got a project in mind that over time could use a whole sheet.

Specifically, I just got the calendar reminder for a Facebook challenge "plan a nice surprise for someone in 4 months". This is for my publisher, who does space combat tabletop games, and is a Seahawks fan. So I'm going to do a ship from the Yamato series in Seahawks colors and logos, with "SBB-03 Russel Wilson" on the base.

Naturally that won't be the last football-themed space battleship I do, hence the desire for a full sheet of decals.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

boba fetacheese posted:

I think basically finished my first model?

Just have to give a black coat around the sides of the base and fix the sherman to it. I'm a bad/lazy photographer, but for evidence:



Things I learnt:
  • I need to pay more attention to sanding seams. I was good with the bogies but not totally happy with the barrel or where the 2 pieces of the turret connected.
  • Tying tiny knots is hard - I dunno how ship guys do it.
  • Using MicroSol to flood to prep the surface of a model for decals results in hosed up decals and I should have bought MicroSet too.
  • I need to work on how to use the lovely static grass applicator I bought - also I need to make sure I dont electrocute myself with it again.
  • For cutting bases I should have bought a desk mounted hotwire knife instead of the handheld one I got - my edges look bad.
  • Scratchbuilding tiny wire handles to replace terrible kit details feels real good.
That looks great. I can't see the seams you are talking about at all, even when I'm searching for them. If you want to tidy up the base and make it a little sturdier a very thin layer of spackle/polyfilla will sort out the unevenness left by the hotwire. Sand it flat when you're done to take the rough patches off and you'll get a nice smooth side to paint black. Go with a matte black to minimise the reflection from unevenness too.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

boba fetacheese posted:

I think basically finished my first model?

Just have to give a black coat around the sides of the base and fix the sherman to it. I'm a bad/lazy photographer, but for evidence:



Things I learnt:
  • I need to pay more attention to sanding seams. I was good with the bogies but not totally happy with the barrel or where the 2 pieces of the turret connected.
  • Tying tiny knots is hard - I dunno how ship guys do it.
  • Using MicroSol to flood to prep the surface of a model for decals results in hosed up decals and I should have bought MicroSet too.
  • I need to work on how to use the lovely static grass applicator I bought - also I need to make sure I dont electrocute myself with it again.
  • For cutting bases I should have bought a desk mounted hotwire knife instead of the handheld one I got - my edges look bad.
  • Scratchbuilding tiny wire handles to replace terrible kit details feels real good.

Looks great for a first model, definitely a lot better than my first (dozen). You can improve the weathering a lot though, look at how mud splatters on real vehicles, maybe drop by a local construction site. The flecks are coming from the bottom-front and towards the rear, you're going to have some lighter splatters for old dried mud and darker splatters over it for fresh mud that's still wet. A lot more mud is going to stick to the bottom of the side panel than the top. Basically, every time you apply any kind of weathering, think how that mud/chipped paint/grease stain/etc got there in the first place and make it accordingly.

You can also try to fill in the periscopes with Acrylic Crystal or at the very least glossy paint to get them to reflect light.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

boba fetacheese posted:

I think basically finished my first model?

Just have to give a black coat around the sides of the base and fix the sherman to it. I'm a bad/lazy photographer, but for evidence:



Things I learnt:
  • I need to pay more attention to sanding seams. I was good with the bogies but not totally happy with the barrel or where the 2 pieces of the turret connected.
  • Tying tiny knots is hard - I dunno how ship guys do it.
  • Using MicroSol to flood to prep the surface of a model for decals results in hosed up decals and I should have bought MicroSet too.
  • I need to work on how to use the lovely static grass applicator I bought - also I need to make sure I dont electrocute myself with it again.
  • For cutting bases I should have bought a desk mounted hotwire knife instead of the handheld one I got - my edges look bad.
  • Scratchbuilding tiny wire handles to replace terrible kit details feels real good.

Most of what I can think to critique has been covered, but I still wanted to say that's a hell of a first model.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods
I could use some advice. I've got these 1/35 British infantry and some have these goggles as part of the sculpt like on the left head here:



First of all I can't think how the hell to paint the goggles. Obviously they're meant to be clear with an orange tint, but short of just painting them solid orange with a gloss coat I'm not sure what to do?


Second of all does anyone have any ideas for modelling helmet scrim like this at 1/35 scale?

boba fetacheese
Dec 12, 2000
Thanks for the kind words. I guess technically this is my 2nd one after an earlier sherman I did in the 90s. Agreed I need to work on the weathering, and I'm spackling the base as we speak!

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

First of all I can't think how the hell to paint the goggles. Obviously they're meant to be clear with an orange tint, but short of just painting them solid orange with a gloss coat I'm not sure what to do?

David Parker's Crew School covers this - he recommends using masking putty to isolate the goggles, then layer chrome, transparent red then transparent orange.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

boba fetacheese posted:


David Parker's Crew School covers this - he recommends using masking putty to isolate the goggles, then layer chrome, transparent red then transparent orange.

That's an incredible book.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Second of all does anyone have any ideas for modelling helmet scrim like this at 1/35 scale?



Any sort of modeling leaf/foam scatter, or even dried herbs from your kitchen, could be lightly dusted on to the helmet coated with a thin layer of glue. Once painted up, it should appear nicely as ripped up fabric scrim.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

boba fetacheese posted:

David Parker's Crew School covers this - he recommends using masking putty to isolate the goggles, then layer chrome, transparent red then transparent orange.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Any sort of modeling leaf/foam scatter, or even dried herbs from your kitchen, could be lightly dusted on to the helmet coated with a thin layer of glue. Once painted up, it should appear nicely as ripped up fabric scrim.

Appreciate the tips guys, I'll look into these!

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

I could use some advice. I've got these 1/35 British infantry and some have these goggles as part of the sculpt like on the left head here:



First of all I can't think how the hell to paint the goggles. Obviously they're meant to be clear with an orange tint, but short of just painting them solid orange with a gloss coat I'm not sure what to do?


Second of all does anyone have any ideas for modelling helmet scrim like this at 1/35 scale?


When I was doing them at 1/72 I followed Piers Brand's method (blues from Games Workshop, because convenience) but you can do the same technique with orange using this guide. Nice level of detail on the mould though, so the frame and noserest in black will help add contrast.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
So, lets start here.

I'm most proud of getting the decals to sit on the tops of the tail. This is an F-Toys model, so it was just a glue it up and put on decals job. Still, very satisfying to put on the shelf.


I painted a bunch more of the CGS Mobile Workers.


And I think they are coming out pretty good.


With those done, I now have 29 painted Mobile Workers. I have another 16 to paint right now.

Here's all the colors so far.


I have, sadly, discovered that my usual detail pens are useless on this latex paint. So I think I need to go to some sort of highlighting ink to make this happen. Should I dive into tamiya panel line paint? or try one of the ink wash techniques to get the things like doors and groove, and the cockpit glass to stand out?

Or... would a harder varnish applied atop let me use the pens?

And because the goal is 100... here's another 26 on the print bed. (Yes, it's a 97.5 hour print)

boba fetacheese
Dec 12, 2000

Gewehr 43 posted:

That's an incredible book.

It is really intimidating!

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

boba fetacheese posted:

It is really intimidating!

You misspelled "inspiring." :)

I get it though; it looks really intimidating at first glance. But, if you break down the techniques, it's something that is pretty straight forward. Mind you, it will take a lot of practice to make it look good, but I don't think the core techniques are anything outlandish.

I'm probably going to pick up a few sets of Hornet heads and hands and start playing around with these methods.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Nerobro posted:

I painted a bunch more of the CGS Mobile Workers.

That's a very cool little armada/squadron/platoon/whatever you've got going there! Apologies if you already posted it, I didn't see it, but do you have a link to the model(s)? I see a few on Thingiverse but I'm not sure which one(s) you're using. Seems like it'd be a fun little project to run on my resin printer, the poor thing's been sitting idle for several weeks due to a general lack of creative motivation.

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





So many of you that have been around the forums for a while know that I posted pretty much a full build log of my wooden ship build in this thread, but it's spread out over more than a years worth of posts in this rather large mega-thread on modelling.

I was encouraged recently to put the entire build log together somewhere that doesn't require registration (modelshipworld.com) so I checked with the moderators of DIY about creating a project thread for an already completed project, and they said :justpost: so I have begun.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944859

This will be a single thread where I will eventually have the entire build-log reposted, maybe even with more pictures and details than the first time around. It's going to be a long process as there are well over 100 posts in the build log buried in this thread, and 29 pages on modelshipworld. Feel free to make suggestions on making the log better this time around and as long as I still have the proper source material/photos I will do my best.

Happy modeling!

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
Very cool! I loved watching your ship build come together. It almost made me want to start one of my own, but I know that I'd just end up frustrated with it so I think I'll stick to the plastic stuff. Can't wait to read through the thread.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Acid Reflux posted:

That's a very cool little armada/squadron/platoon/whatever you've got going there! Apologies if you already posted it, I didn't see it, but do you have a link to the model(s)? I see a few on Thingiverse but I'm not sure which one(s) you're using. Seems like it'd be a fun little project to run on my resin printer, the poor thing's been sitting idle for several weeks due to a general lack of creative motivation.

This is what I've been printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4266345
However, this one might be a better model? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4017714

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Awesome, thanks, much appreciated! That second one might be better for resin, but I'll look at them both and see what'll work best.

boba fetacheese
Dec 12, 2000
Anyone know of any punch and die sets similar to http://rptoolz.unas.hu/en/spd/RP-PD/Punch-and-die-set available in Canada?

Also I'm going to start kit #2 - the Tamiya Elefant. Have a metal barrel and tracks incoming and grabbed a photoetch set but turns out it is actually designed to backdate and elefant to a ferdinand. Still looks like I can use a bunch. Really excited to fiddle around with teensy tiny hinges!

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I posted many months ago about making a youtube channel for model building. My plan was to make a bunch of videos (that would never be published) in 2020 to gain experience making lovely videos and then kick off the channel in 2021 with hopefully better videos. The idea was to create practice videos on a regular basis based on scale. One week for 1:72, two weeks for 1:48, and a month for 1:32. The reality is that I finished a 1:32 P-40 Warhawk I started in 2019 and started on a 1:48 BF-109e several months ago and it is still sitting on the bench with the cockpit half finished. I need a little kick in the rear end to keep me motivated to keep building so I kicked of my channel a little early in hopes that I can get some subscribers which will hopefully motivate me to start building and posting more out of guilt and obligation.

I know the obvious question on your mind and the answer is - No, I wasn't raised Catholic, but guilt trips are the truth and the way in my family.

Anyway, I posted my first video on the new channel to get the ball rolling. I skip around a lot in the instructions when building models and save a lot of steps for the very end of the build to avoid breaking fragile parts. Then, I forget poo poo and wonder where all the leftover parts go. This video is about taking a methodical approach to building efficiently and not forgetting to go back and do those steps you skipped. I'd love to hear any feedback. Good, bad, ugly...it all helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw-IQWv8N5o

Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Oct 24, 2020

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
Done at last!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1d6498OtUI

Here's a full write up on the final product at the Large Scale Planes (LSP) forum.

Or, an imgur album link if that's your cup of tea.

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The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





Gewehr 43 posted:

Done at last!




Beautiful job and fantastic base. I love it when people build off of a historical reference photo like that also.

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