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poverty goat posted:Tojiro DP Seconding this. Tojiro is hard to beat for it's price. Spending more mostly means better fit and finish, nicer blade steel, or some mix of the two that most will not need.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:16
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Lawnie posted:Recommend me a 7-8” Japanese chef’s knife around or under $200. I have a 6” wustfhof santoku that I love and a 12” victorinox chef’s knife (not sure why I asked for that one years ago) but want something in the middle of those sizes. I prefer to have Japanese style steel that’s harder and holds an edge longer, even if it’s more difficult to sharpen. I'd personally go with a 210mm rather than a 180mm considering the knives you already have plus 8" is kind of the standard for German chef's knives so that's what a lot of people consider "normal sized chef's knife" and 210mm is closer to that. https://www.hocho-knife.com/tojiro-dp-cobalt-alloy-3-layers-chef-knife-gyuto-210mm/
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Oct 19, 2020 20:32
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Lawnie posted:Recommend me a 7-8” Japanese chef’s knife around or under $200. I have a 6” wustfhof santoku that I love and a 12” victorinox chef’s knife (not sure why I asked for that one years ago) but want something in the middle of those sizes. I prefer to have Japanese style steel that’s harder and holds an edge longer, even if it’s more difficult to sharpen. https://www.amazon.com/Misono-UX10-Gyutou-8-2-21cm/dp/B000XSX8IA
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Oct 19, 2020 20:46
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Lawnie posted:Recommend me a 7-8” Japanese chef’s knife around or under $200. I have a 6” wustfhof santoku that I love and a 12” victorinox chef’s knife (not sure why I asked for that one years ago) but want something in the middle of those sizes. I prefer to have Japanese style steel that’s harder and holds an edge longer, even if it’s more difficult to sharpen.
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Oct 19, 2020 21:16
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These *just* showed up today and this is a hell of a steal (I didn't get the deal). They are beautiful. https://www.hocho-knife.com/iseya-i-series-33-layer-vg-10-damascus-hammered-chef-knife-set-chef-knife-210mm-santoku-180mm-petty-150mm/
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Oct 19, 2020 21:32
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I have a 240mm Moritaka and I like it a lot. I think a 180mm (7”) is too short to bother buying a real expensive one. After I switched from 8” to 240mm (9.5”) I wouldn’t go back. All my 8” knives feel stubby.
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Oct 19, 2020 22:59
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Chemmy posted:I have a 240mm Moritaka and I like it a lot. I think a 180mm (7”) is too short to bother buying a real expensive one.
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Oct 19, 2020 23:09
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I've started cooking a lot of barbecue and i need a knife suggestion for a slicer. Something I can use to trim chicken skin as well as cut open a giant pork shoulder, but also won't break if I touch a bone on accident. I don't mind sharpening often.
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Oct 20, 2020 00:35
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Victorinox 14” slicer.
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Oct 20, 2020 00:46
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Chemmy posted:I have a 240mm Moritaka and I like it a lot. I think a 180mm (7”) is too short to bother buying a real expensive one. I'll keep an eye out for the Moritaka. I measured my knives when I got home and I really only need to add something between 8 and 10 inches. According to Moritaka's website, their steel is treated to 60 HRC. Another website listed the core steel at 65 HRC. That was wild to me.
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Oct 20, 2020 00:51
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I’ll be honest I dunno about going carbon steel. I’m thinking about another 240+mm stainless gyuto.
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Oct 20, 2020 06:17
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SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:I've started cooking a lot of barbecue and i need a knife suggestion for a slicer. Something I can use to trim chicken skin as well as cut open a giant pork shoulder, but also won't break if I touch a bone on accident. I don't mind sharpening often. There is a lot of confusion -- mainly because companies seem to use the terminology interchangeably -- but I normally think of a "slicer" as a long knife used mainly for boneless roasts to minimize sawing back and forth, by being very long and very sharp, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-S...03188972&sr=8-2 As opposed to a "carving knife," for carving bone-in roasts and poultry, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Wusthof-Clas...03189002&sr=8-2 I'm not sure which one you're after, but those are the two that sprung to mind from your question.
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Oct 20, 2020 11:18
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I have a 6” Henkels flexible boner that I really like. And who wouldn’t.
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Oct 20, 2020 14:21
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The second one looks nice but I found this and it's basically exactly what I wanted. I may go with the 6"boning knife though not sure. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019WXEO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EnVJFb5DJZPSM
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Oct 20, 2020 15:27
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I have a 6” New thread title.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:34
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I just bought some projects for Xmas presents. Will see if I actually get them done in time. 
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Oct 21, 2020 07:11
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the Mods, they knew!
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Chemmy posted:I’ll be honest I dunno about going carbon steel. I’m thinking about another 240+mm stainless gyuto. I already have more knives than I use and keep looking at more. Well-made Japanese knives are so pretty. If I actually do end up moving to Japan as planned I'm going to have a problem. Also I finally got Chinese cleaver and don't like using it at all. Grand Fromage fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Oct 21, 2020 |
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Oct 21, 2020 14:06
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Chemmy posted:I’ll be honest I dunno about going carbon steel. I’m thinking about another 240+mm stainless gyuto. I’ve waffled about that, I don’t own any other carbon steel and I’m kind of curious to try.
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Oct 21, 2020 18:15
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I love my carbon steel knife but I instantly got a rust dot on it by cutting a tomato with a different knife 3 feet away
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Oct 21, 2020 18:32
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xtal posted:I love my carbon steel knife but I instantly got a rust dot on it by cutting a tomato with a different knife 3 feet away Force a patina on it and then don't worry as much about rust.
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Oct 21, 2020 18:37
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Force a patina on it and then don't worry as much about rust. Force it how? Cut a bunch of onions or do you oil it? Honestly curious because I’ve been spending less and have been eyeing a really nice carbon steel knife for a few years now. I just need to make sure no one else ever touches it, much less looks at it.
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Oct 21, 2020 18:54
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Jhet posted:Force it how? Cut a bunch of onions or do you oil it? Honestly curious because I’ve been spending less and have been eyeing a really nice carbon steel knife for a few years now. I just need to make sure no one else ever touches it, much less looks at it. Smear it with yellow mustard and let it sit for 15 minutes then wash and dry. I'll get a pic of mine, I ended up putting a neat looking finish on it by blotting it with a textured paper towel after applying the mustard. edit: There are people really into this stuff who can tell you how to get different hues in the patina by using ground chicken, etc., to force the patina. I'm happy with my mustard patina though
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Oct 21, 2020 19:03
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Mine is sharp and has a fine patina but I just kind of obsess over it, like I keep a clean towel on my board to wipe the blade after slicing.
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Oct 21, 2020 20:22
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Smear it with yellow mustard and let it sit for 15 minutes then wash and dry. I'll get a pic of mine, I ended up putting a neat looking finish on it by blotting it with a textured paper towel after applying the mustard. That’s really cool. I will have to go down the rabbit hole of strange patina creation methods after I pick out the blade. I think it goes without saying that I’ll have to keep a clean towel nearby to wipe down after using.
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Oct 21, 2020 20:52
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Does anyone have a reliable guide for taking care of carbon blades? My first one is in the mail, and I trust this thread’s recommendations over my Google skills.
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Oct 21, 2020 21:38
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Wash it as soon as you're done using it and then dry it. When I bought mine they included a little bottle of blade oil and said if I wasn't going to use the knife a while I should apply it to the edge to be sure it doesn't rust. I usually wipe a drop of it along the edge every time. So far no issues.
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Oct 21, 2020 21:42
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thanks for the mustard tip... my gross old $1 high-carbon knife has never looked better. sharpening talk again: I just watched an instructional video for my Spyderco Sharpmaker. I get the impression that it's just not going to work well for anything over, say, 4" and more flexible that "not at all." I just gave it another go and my 6" Wusthof still looks like poo poo, which is something I am tempted to put on my dating profile
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Oct 21, 2020 21:45
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There are knives that have a carbon steel blade clad in stainless. That could be something to consider.
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Oct 21, 2020 21:49
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Empty Sandwich posted:thanks for the mustard tip... my gross old $1 high-carbon knife has never looked better. I don't like the Sharpmaker at all, because although the rods are supposed to keep the blade angle correct, there is absolutely nothing to force you to hold the blade vertically. The whole point of a sharpening system, compared to a set of stones, is to make the right angle geometrically impossible not to maintain, yet the Sharpmaker does nothing to do that. I have never used my Sharpmaker and ended up with a blade in better shape than before I used it. If I'm going to freehand, I'll do it on a flat stone.
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Oct 22, 2020 02:12
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My stones got bowed really quick on my sharpmaker. Probably user error, but still.
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Oct 22, 2020 14:58
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Bought and have been using a gyuto. Masakage Yuki 240mm. Really stupid sharp out of the box, coming from a victorinox and whatever miscellaneous stuff I've used of other people's. Rode that until just recently, probably much longer than I should have, until it's just not cutting the way it used to. Pulled out the stones, etc. and Dang sharpening is hard. At least, getting a phenomenal edge is. It's sharper than before which is good but I'm dreaming of the knife that could fly through a suspended hair. More practice needed, I guess. Will say the blade profile and placement of handle, etc. makes handling it during sharpening (and use!) dream and I only begrudgingly go back to the victorinox for more rough work.
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Oct 22, 2020 15:25
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I struggled to get the feel for sharpening on my Japanese knives. The hard steel just works slowly and gives poor feedback in my opinion, and the slow turnaround between sharpenings to a unhelpful for working on your muscle memory. Using and sharpening carbon steel for a while was huge for me. It's equally rewarding to take to a very sharp edge, but metal comes off much faster, your stones will wear more slowly, and you can make mistakes, adjustments or corrections as you like and see the results very quickly. And the patina makes it self-sharpieing so you can just look and see exactly where you're taking metal off with each stroke whenever you sit down to sharpen it. Going back to my Japanese knives after a year or two in the veggie cleaver cult, sharpening my favorite piece of cheap chinese steel about once a week, I can now put a scary edge on them by touch without a lot of fuss. It's a lot less fun to do, though.
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Oct 22, 2020 19:29
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I don’t understand. The carbon steel in the japanese knives people are talking about here is generally harder than stainless. That’s the whole point. The Moritaka I’m using is 65 HRC. Wild stainless like M390 is 62 HRC.
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Oct 23, 2020 05:33
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My Sharpmaker is over 12 years old, maybe a lot older because I can't remember when exactly I bought it, and I'm still using the same rods, they are not bowed or anything. I wore a recurve into one knife with no visible change to the rods.
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Oct 23, 2020 09:50
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Chemmy posted:I don’t understand. The carbon steel in the japanese knives people are talking about here is generally harder than stainless. That’s the whole point. Even 62 HRC is still extremely hard, relative to an 18-8 or other more common stainless alloys. My one-article research on M390 suggests it’s an industrial alloy that’s powder processed and has a relative poo poo ton of vanadium so it’s gotta be pretty expensive. Anyway yeah that guy’s story doesn’t really make sense, if it’s soft enough that you can see the edge getting manipulated on one pass through a stone then it’s probably either not the alloy you think it is or it’s been overtempered to hell and back.
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Oct 23, 2020 15:22
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There are things to be said about carbon cutting easier then stainless regardless of hardness. I know for my super hard stainless it's a powdered one as well and that is a loving bear compared to say blue 2 or AS.
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Oct 23, 2020 20:23
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I have a Global petty knife that has a slightly damaged tip. Nothing major, but it's not a proper point anymore, which annoys me. I don't super love the knife, but I would rather repair it than replace it if possible, and if I screw it up, well, that'd be a bummer but I'm not that into the knife anyway. What does the process of putting a new tip on the knife look like? Currently I have the green/red DuoSharp stones and 1000 grit and 6000 grit Shapton waterstones; are these coarse enough to do the job? I'm guessing not. Alternatively, if you have a petty knife that you love that's not too pricy, I'd take recommendations. This is a 6" and I paid a hair under $60 for it.
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Oct 26, 2020 22:54
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guppy posted:I have a Global petty knife that has a slightly damaged tip. Nothing major, but it's not a proper point anymore, which annoys me. I don't super love the knife, but I would rather repair it than replace it if possible, and if I screw it up, well, that'd be a bummer but I'm not that into the knife anyway. What does the process of putting a new tip on the knife look like? Currently I have the green/red DuoSharp stones and 1000 grit and 6000 grit Shapton waterstones; are these coarse enough to do the job? I'm guessing not. Grind the spine down until you form a new tip. Keep the knife perpendicular to the stone (cutting edge pointing straight up). Scott808 fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 23:20
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guppy posted:I have a Global petty knife that has a slightly damaged tip. Nothing major, but it's not a proper point anymore, which annoys me. I don't super love the knife, but I would rather repair it than replace it if possible, and if I screw it up, well, that'd be a bummer but I'm not that into the knife anyway. What does the process of putting a new tip on the knife look like? Currently I have the green/red DuoSharp stones and 1000 grit and 6000 grit Shapton waterstones; are these coarse enough to do the job? I'm guessing not. Honestly I'd check and see what your local professional knife sharpener is charging to do a tip repair. Trying to repair blade damage by hand is an exercise in frustration without a really coarse stone. And even with one it might still be a pain in the rear end depending on the damage.
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Oct 27, 2020 00:39
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Scott808 posted:Grind the spine down until you form a new tip. Keep the knife perpendicular to the stone (cutting edge pointing straight up). Thanks. The existing spine is not flat, it's got a slight curve to it (it's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JMI96Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) -- am I better off just making it flat, versus just giving it a bit sharper angle? The damage is slight. .Z. posted:Honestly I'd check and see what your local professional knife sharpener is charging to do a tip repair. Trying to repair blade damage by hand is an exercise in frustration without a really coarse stone. And even with one it might still be a pain in the rear end depending on the damage. Were we not in a pandemic, I would probably do that. But under the circumstances, I'm interested in trying myself. Do I need to buy, like, a 120 grit?
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Oct 27, 2020 01:47
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