|
guppy posted:Thanks. The existing spine is not flat, it's got a slight curve to it (it's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JMI96Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) -- am I better off just making it flat, versus just giving it a bit sharper angle? The damage is slight. A 400 stone is where I'd start. Pretty readily available and that's what I/chefs I worked with used to repair light to moderate tip damage. If it is really bad I'd start with a file then move to stones.
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2020 02:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 16:39 |
|
|
guppy posted:Thanks. The existing spine is not flat, it's got a slight curve to it (it's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JMI96Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) -- am I better off just making it flat, versus just giving it a bit sharper angle? The damage is slight. You don't need to make the spine flat, or grind down the whole spine. Like if you broke the tip off at red, you could grind down following where green is, but then you'd have a weird sharp transition, so instead if you grind down more like blue (ignoring the wiggle in the line, but it was meant to be a smoother curve), you'll end up with a more natural looking spine.  As you grind with the tip facing away from you - as you draw the knife back towards you lift the handle upwards, as you push away lower the handle downwards, like a smooth rocking motion. You say the damage is slight, so your fine DMT might be able to do it in a reasonably well (be mindful of avoiding catching the tip in the "holes"), but if not I'd use something like a Norton oil stone or even a brick or concrete sidewalk/driveway to do the bulk of the repair work. https://smile.amazon.com/Norton-Economy-Abrasive-Sharpener-Combination/dp/B0068TTVN4/ https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001MSA5Y/ https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XK5ZDY/ You might want to check the price history; the 8" Crystolon price seems a bit high right now. Scott808 fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Oct 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2020 02:37
|
|
|
Sounds good, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2020 10:43
|
|
|
I have not yet attempted to grind a new tip on to that petty knife, but I finally used my new Shapton Glass stones for the first time. My only other freehanding experience was with a DuoSharp. They are 1000 and 6000 grit, as I mentioned, and I'm using a "universal" stone holder. To check my angle, I'm using a set of those blue Wedgek angle guides, but happily my instincts for it seem to be pretty good. There was a brief moment of confusion when I realized I wasn't sure whether to grind on the (clear) side with the numbers visible or the blank white side. I looked at a couple of YouTube videos and concluded that the unmarked white side was the one to use. I'm about 90% sure I was right, but there is a surprisingly little amount of documentation, including in the packaging that came with the stones. I decided to start out with a knife I don't really care about, so I sharpened a Victorinox paring knife. I have several and they're about $6, so if I screw it up, well, better that than the Mac Pro chef's knife that needs sharpening. I am not entirely sure what to think of my results. I appear to have ground off way more material than I realized; I was not expecting the stone to cut so fast. I have also changed the geometry of the blade, which isn't great. I haven't done the tip yet because something came up, but it seems like it will be difficult to maintain the curve and I'll have to settle for close enough. As it is, it looks almost like a tanto point. There is also no bolster on the knife, so doing it at the angle I did it means that the first inch or so didn't get sharpened. I could turn the knife fully horizontal to address that problem, I guess, but it's going to be hard to grind evenly across the length of the blade that way. I kept feeling for a burr as I sharpened, and sometimes I thought I felt it and sometimes not, despite not doing anything differently, and I'm fairly confident I maintained a consistent angle. But if I kept trying, I would be down to like a 2mm wide blade. When I was finished, the knife didn't feel very sharp to the touch, but then I honed it and it felt very sharp, and cut through paper without difficulty. Is it normal to feel like the knife is still dull when sharpening? My YouTube video watching suggests that it is not. I have more paring knives that need sharpening, and I really need to sharpen that Mac, but I'm still worried about screwing it up. I've been procrastinating trying this because I was worried about messing up my knives, but I figured I had to try it sometime so I might as well bite the bullet, and how hard could it be? Unfortunately I now have less confidence, not more. Any advice would be welcome. How hard should I be pressing the edge into the stone? I started off not pressing that hard, but it didn't seem like it was doing, so I started pressing pretty firmly. A couple times the blade also caught and I ended up with the knife rotating to almost perpendicular to the stone and scraping, which is a horrible sound and a horrible feeling. I am not sure how severe any implications of that are for the knife, the stone, or the sharpening process. How frequently do I need to re-spray the stone? The Glass stones say you don't need to and shouldn't soak them, just spray them with a spray bottle occasionally.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2020 14:07
|
|
|
guppy posted:I have not yet attempted to grind a new tip on to that petty knife, but I finally used my new Shapton Glass stones for the first time. My only other freehanding experience was with a DuoSharp. They are 1000 and 6000 grit, as I mentioned, and I'm using a "universal" stone holder. To check my angle, I'm using a set of those blue Wedgek angle guides, but happily my instincts for it seem to be pretty good. There was a brief moment of confusion when I realized I wasn't sure whether to grind on the (clear) side with the numbers visible or the blank white side. I looked at a couple of YouTube videos and concluded that the unmarked white side was the one to use. I'm about 90% sure I was right, but there is a surprisingly little amount of documentation, including in the packaging that came with the stones. Looking at videos and the fact that you abraded metal off your knife seems to confirm that you did, in fact, select the correct side for sharpening. guppy posted:I kept feeling for a burr as I sharpened, and sometimes I thought I felt it and sometimes not, despite not doing anything differently, and I'm fairly confident I maintained a consistent angle. But if I kept trying, I would be down to like a 2mm wide blade. When I was finished, the knife didn't feel very sharp to the touch, but then I honed it and it felt very sharp, and cut through paper without difficulty. Is it normal to feel like the knife is still dull when sharpening? My YouTube video watching suggests that it is not. It's possible that you just weren't noticing a burr, and it's possible that a burr wasn't forming. Keep in mind that dulling is an inconsistent process. If you use the heel more and the tip less, you might raise a burr on the tip sooner than on the heel, for example. It's not super common for a knife to feel dull even though it's getting sharp, but Murray Carter talks about that in one of his videos. Sometimes a knife won't pass the three finger test, but it passes the visual, newspaper, and tomato tests. Also keep in mind that if this is your first at bat with sharpening, you might just need more practice to develop a feel for things. Beethoven's Ninth wasn't exactly his first attempt at music. guppy posted:I have more paring knives that need sharpening, and I really need to sharpen that Mac, but I'm still worried about screwing it up. I've been procrastinating trying this because I was worried about messing up my knives, but I figured I had to try it sometime so I might as well bite the bullet, and how hard could it be? Unfortunately I now have less confidence, not more. Any advice would be welcome. I know I literally just said to practice, but I'll say it again since it bears repeating. Insofar as my advice means anything, it's to just put steel to stone and sharpen. It's like wanting to powerlift. There's no amount of literature you can read on the topic that will magically impart upon you the ability to deadlift 405 pounds. You can read and find tips to help your form, but at the end of the day, you get better at the deadlift by deadlifting and forcing your body to adapt. God I hope that makes sense. In any case, the skill comes through repetition. And failure. Any knife that I sharpen regularly has some marks that show where I was sloppy and careless at some point. To the concern of failure, I'd encourage you to keep in mind that you need either power tools or a low grit stone and some amphetamines to do lasting, irreparable damage. Even if you rub the knife vertically into the stone until there's no semblance of an edge, then rub each face of the blade on the stone until the original finish is gone, you can bring that knife back to working condition with some patience. Consider your Global. Even with a broken tip, it's still a serviceable knife, just not quite the same as it was. guppy posted:How hard should I be pressing the edge into the stone? I started off not pressing that hard, but it didn't seem like it was doing, so I started pressing pretty firmly. A couple times the blade also caught and I ended up with the knife rotating to almost perpendicular to the stone and scraping, which is a horrible sound and a horrible feeling. I am not sure how severe any implications of that are for the knife, the stone, or the sharpening process. Bob Kramer says 4-6 lbs of pressure. I've never actually used a scale to check, but it's worth quoting him since he's an ABS master bladesmith. I'd say firm enough to have solid contact between the knife and stone, but light enough that the abrasive is doing the work rather than the pressure. And as a general rule, you use more pressure when you're doing heavier work, like sharpening or repairing, and lighter work when you're honing. If I'm doing edge-trailing strokes to remove the burr or to strop the edge, I try to use just enough pressure to keep the edge in contact with the stone. I'll say again here that you're probably not going to any severe implications without power tools or intense dedication to ruining your knife. I think it's an important point that bears repeating. As far as water, you can't really overspray the stone, so if you feel like you need to spray it more often, feel free. If you feel like the knife isn't moving smoothly enough or you see a lot of swarf building up, give it a spray. I usually spray in between sets of passes. I'll hit one side of the bevel for X passes, then spray before I move to the other side. For me it helps minimize the buildup of swarf and mud. Hopefully repeating myself isn't obnoxious. It's not obnoxious in my internal monologue, but I'm also generally considered very weird so I shouldn't trust my internal monologue. But as long as I'm repeating myself, just get to sharpening. You'll make mistakes, but mistakes are how we learn. I had the honor of training with the headmaster of the Tabimina lineage of Balintawak arnis, which is a big deal if you're into obscure Filipino martial arts. He told me over and over that mistakes are just opportunities for your brain to calibrate to the new skill you're learning. They're not even bad, just a marker of where you're still making progress. He also told me to relax, have fun, and try my best. That seems like good advice, too.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2020 19:05
|
|
|
Thanks, that's very helpful. Not obnoxious at all. Funnily enough, I have escrima background myself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2020 20:00
|
|
|
guppy posted:Thanks, that's very helpful. Not obnoxious at all. Funnily enough, I have escrima background myself. I know that barongs and balisongs don't see a lot of kitchen use, but what sort of background?
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2020 22:14
|
|
|
The Minonokuni Matsu 300mm (11.8 in.) Yanagiba just arrived. I was curious how much you could see the single bevel curve and it’s very noticeable. I’m going to eat 3 pounds of fish this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2020 23:30
|
|
|
I can't for the life of me seeing buying a small sword being practical over a longer gyuto or whatever, but at the same time having a kitchen sword is pretty cool. Now you can also slice baguettes lengthwise in a single stroke, which is really the standard any good knife lives up to.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2020 01:21
|
|
|
Glockamole posted:I know that barongs and balisongs don't see a lot of kitchen use, but what sort of background? My martial arts background in general is very broad and not that deep, but FMA wise, I started out in Pekiti-Tirsia, but then I moved away and was out for a little while. I eventually found a teacher teaching Kali Ilustrisimo. Unfortunately he moved out of state for work. His senior student continued to teach, but I always kind of got the sense he didn't like me and the class wasn't very convenient for me and I ended up just ghosting, which I still feel bad about. Both groups were really great. I would say that the bulk of my technique is Ilustrisimo. Not a quality judgment, I liked both, I just spent more time learning it and it really clicked for me. The bulk of my pre-FMA learning was Wado-ryu karate, and I've dabbled in Isshin-ryu karate, jujitsu, and tai chi. I have a very slight amount of exposure to aikido as well, but I didn't take to it. I miss martial arts but even pre-covid it was hard to find good instruction and these days I have no time. Wado-ryu and Ilustrisimo are probably the strongest influences on me. guppy fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Oct 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2020 02:45
|
|
|
Kalsco posted:I can't for the life of me seeing buying a small sword being practical over a longer gyuto or whatever, but at the same time having a kitchen sword is pretty cool. Now you can also slice baguettes lengthwise in a single stroke, which is really the standard any good knife lives up to. I did feel super cool slicing some halibut tonight, which was reward enough. I’m definitely going to make long-grilled cheese with it at some point, though. I dried and cleaned it immediately to make sure I didn’t gently caress up the carbon steel. How long should it take to make a natural patina? Will I mess it up if I’m using it as intended and babying it? If I do gently caress up can I pay $$ to get it to a knife doctor and save it? I have a cast iron which has been in use for over a decade without any problems, so if I’m as protective of this knife as I have been with that pan should that be good enough?
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2020 07:56
|
|
|
guppy posted:I have not yet attempted to grind a new tip on to that petty knife, but I finally used my new Shapton Glass stones for the first time. My only other freehanding experience was with a DuoSharp. They are 1000 and 6000 grit, as I mentioned, and I'm using a "universal" stone holder. To check my angle, I'm using a set of those blue Wedgek angle guides, but happily my instincts for it seem to be pretty good. There was a brief moment of confusion when I realized I wasn't sure whether to grind on the (clear) side with the numbers visible or the blank white side. I looked at a couple of YouTube videos and concluded that the unmarked white side was the one to use. I'm about 90% sure I was right, but there is a surprisingly little amount of documentation, including in the packaging that came with the stones. The clear side on the Shaptons is the glass base, the white side is the abrasive side so you have it right. guppy posted:I decided to start out with a knife I don't really care about, so I sharpened a Victorinox paring knife. I have several and they're about $6, so if I screw it up, well, better that than the Mac Pro chef's knife that needs sharpening. I am not entirely sure what to think of my results. For the tip you need to try and follow the curve by lifting and lowering the handle as you sharpen- handle goes up (towards the sky) as you sharpen towards the tip and lowers as you move down the curve of the belly in the direction of the heel. Put the front of the knife on the stone; without moving backwards and forwards like you're sharpening just follow the curve of the belly to the tip along the edge bevel. So combine that tracing of the edge with the sharpening motion. To sharpen the heel without hitting the handle you do need to change the orientation of the knife to the stone or you can switch hands. You can use permanent marker to see where you're abrading. You can use a fine stone and light pressure to check without really grinding away too much steel for no reason. JKI has a video you can watch about this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kzGvtX-h8g JKI also has a whole playlist about sharpening. I think it would be useful to you. There's a tip sharpening technique video in there too which would be really hard to explain with just text. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBF55079F53216AB guppy posted:I have more paring knives that need sharpening, and I really need to sharpen that Mac, but I'm still worried about screwing it up. I've been procrastinating trying this because I was worried about messing up my knives, but I figured I had to try it sometime so I might as well bite the bullet, and how hard could it be? Unfortunately I now have less confidence, not more. Any advice would be welcome. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45mMioJ5szc Yeah, you'll probably gently caress up - it's part of learning something new. But as Glockamole mentioned, almost everything can be fixed to a reasonable degree. By reasonable I mean you can't put back the steel you sharpened away - like the broken tip, we can't put the broken tip back on, but we can grind a new point on it. So maybe you messed up and dug into the stone with the tip or the edge. Okay, if the gouge in the stone is bad we can flatten the stone. If the tip got a little blunted we can make it pointy again and we can resharpen the dulled edge, it's not a huge deal. guppy posted:How hard should I be pressing the edge into the stone? I started off not pressing that hard, but it didn't seem like it was doing, so I started pressing pretty firmly. A couple times the blade also caught and I ended up with the knife rotating to almost perpendicular to the stone and scraping, which is a horrible sound and a horrible feeling. I am not sure how severe any implications of that are for the knife, the stone, or the sharpening process. Unless I'm really trying to grind steel off I tend to go fairly light and go very light on the finishing strokes. You can avoid catching the edge on the stones by applying pressure on the edge trailing stroke and release (use just enough to keep contact) on the edge leading stroke.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2020 09:28
|
|
|
Damage is repairable, but if you're really nervous (like I was when I started) then just get yourself a trash knife and practice on it so you don't have to care. If you don't have any lovely knives, get a $5 one at Walmart or whatever and bash its edge on the sidewalk for a minute. Ready to practice on. Worst case scenario with your good knives, if you really screw up the edge and can't fix it, there's almost certainly a knife sharpening service in your town you can pay to fix it up. Short of snapping the blade there's not really anything you can do to the knife that can't be repaired.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2020 19:23
|
|
|
Case in point: My two favourite knives got chipped badly when they fell off my magnetic knife block I'm renting, so it was an adhesive one made of two bites of foam stuck together with adhesive and magnets. Sadly, after a week at 35C+ in the Australian summer, the adhesive melted...  Took it down to the local forge, two hours of their labour later, they were fixed:  Anything is fixable with the right amount of time/money/experience
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2020 20:28
|
|
|
The North Tower posted:I did feel super cool slicing some halibut tonight, which was reward enough. I’m definitely going to make long-grilled cheese with it at some point, though. I dried and cleaned it immediately to make sure I didn’t gently caress up the carbon steel. How long should it take to make a natural patina? Will I mess it up if I’m using it as intended and babying it? If I do gently caress up can I pay $$ to get it to a knife doctor and save it? Please don't use your super cool knife to cut a baguette, the rock of breads, I was being facetious. Wrt to patina if you're asking (I'm also a knife baby so take with grain of salt), just try to use it daily. My general experience is the usual onions, etc. do a fine job of adding a natural patina. In my experience, it takes very little time. My knife basically got it in like, one or two nights and that was being super cautious and getting it bone dry every time (I still do!). Mind, mine is carbon clad with stainless so I have a lot less space to worry about which will be your main concern. Only my edge and about a cm~+ above it is exposed carbon.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2020 04:52
|
|
|
Kalsco posted:Please don't use your super cool knife to cut a baguette, the rock of breads, I was being facetious. Thanks! French onion soup on Sunday it is! (Don’t worry I have access to a bread knife.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2020 05:56
|
|
|
Kalsco posted:Please don't use your super cool knife to cut a baguette, the rock of breads, I was being facetious. I wish you had posted this and I had seen it a week ago, I rolled a fair amount of the edge and put a couple small chips in my second best gyuto cutting some sourdough I had made because I am a loving moron. I probably still would have done it though tbh. Pretty well fixed up with just a regular sharpening plus a small amount of 200 grit stone though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2020 02:16
|
|
|
It's bread. Go get yourself a cheap ikea bread knife.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2020 07:26
|
|
|
No
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2020 15:49
|
|
|
The only downside with not forcing a patina, is all these wonderful foods for developing a great patina like onions, potatoes, et al, will also taste like metal (yes I know metal is tasteless and the actual taste comes from decomposition products catalyzed by metal) the first couple times you use it. For this I use a simple vinegar and water solution to force a mild patina beforehand. Cheap, quick, simple, and a compromise between forcing a cool patina with mustard, and developing a natural patina.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2020 21:36
|
|
|
Babylon Astronaut posted:The only downside with not forcing a patina, is all these wonderful foods for developing a great patina like onions, potatoes, et al, will also taste like metal (yes I know metal is tasteless and the actual taste comes from decomposition products catalyzed by metal) the first couple times you use it. For this I use a simple vinegar and water solution to force a mild patina beforehand. Cheap, quick, simple, and a compromise between forcing a cool patina with mustard, and developing a natural patina. Just cut up a 50lb sack of onions and a case of potatoes, problem solved
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2020 23:47
|
|
|
50 lbs of potato metal. My naturals look prettier for sure but those are reserved for my unique knives even if it maybe they're the cheapest. I think mjnoglobin or whatever is pretty as heck but avoid blood.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2020 23:59
|
|
|
I didn't know forced patinas were a thing when I got my first real knife around 3 months ago... Then:  Now: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2020 19:10
|
|
|
Hi knife goons, I am an idiot but I have read the OP so my only question for you is: I have need of new knives, I am going to drop £100-£150 on a pair of knives but am wondering is the world of knife retail susceptible to Black Friday? Also all those ads I am being spammed with for cool looking knives since I did some googling are trash, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2020 09:38
|
|
|
Bacon Terrorist posted:Hi knife goons, I am an idiot but I have read the OP so my only question for you is: I have need of new knives, I am going to drop £100-£150 on a pair of knives but am wondering is the world of knife retail susceptible to Black Friday? For the ads, it actually probably depends. Like I know Misen does a lot of ads and I've heard decent to good things about them. I wouldn't count a knife out just because you saw an ad for it but I also wouldn't buy one just because you saw an ad.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2020 16:29
|
|
|
shears + decent petty is a common black friday deal
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2020 16:30
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice, I will hang on for now then.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2020 21:54
|
|
|
Dunno if it's still the case, but Misen's post kickstarter life (perhaps even beyond prototype sampling?) has been marred with quality control issues abound and I'm not aware if those have ever been resolved. Depending on what you're looking to get out of your knife you're probably just better off springing for a Tojiro DP which is probably a few euro more but is not plagued with QC issues, etc. Probably a big enough manufacturer to see some discount in international dealers but I'm speaking entirely out of my rear end here. No clue if it'd get paired with anything like you're wanting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2020 05:11
|
|
|
Is chef knives to go the best price/quality for knife repairs and sharpening? I need to get my shun santoku’s tip fixed. I dropped it awhile back and the tip broke. Not super bad but bad enough. I’ve never sharpened it in like the two years I’ve owned it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2020 21:01
|
|
|
The 25 dollar, or whatever it's gone up to, shun care kit will save you hundreds in knife repairs if you use reactive metals frequently. This guy. Babylon Astronaut fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Nov 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2020 02:41
|
|
|
Another carbon blade question, but is the jamón I picked up from Costco an ideal case to use the poo poo out of this super sharp knife? Still haven’t gotten the full patina yet. M
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2020 14:06
|
|
|
I've been cooking with a steak knife and paring knife for years, like a moron, I see the chefs knife in the OP that is cheap, what do you guys recommend I store it in? I do not want a magnet thing. Edit also any alternatives to that knife and any suggestions for additional knives beyond chefs and paring would be good. I cook all kinds of junk so I should probably at least see what's out there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 23:44
|
|
|
Blocks are eh but if you have drawer space there are good knife incerts you can actually clean. Grab a cheap Chinese veg cleaver
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 23:50
|
|
|
Submarine Sandpaper posted:Blocks are eh but if you have drawer space there are good knife incerts you can actually clean. Drawer space is at a premium unfortunately, as is counter space. I'll pick up some sheathes or whatever so I don't cut my hand off while I figure out the drawers. I have like two gadget drawers and it's a mix of like sentimental stuff from my grandparent's kitchen that I never use, garbage, and duplicates so I can probably get room freed up. My wife would definitely get use out of a veg cleaver
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 23:52
|
|
|
suspend it by a slim Damocles thread above the stove (I looked up novelty stabbed-guy holders, but they're like a hundred loving dollars)
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 23:55
|
|
|
Random Hero posted:I didn't know forced patinas were a thing when I got my first real knife around 3 months ago... So do you derustify it and then force a patina or what I think I'm you but 3 months ago
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 00:05
|
|
|
shovelbum posted:Drawer space is at a premium unfortunately, as is counter space. I'll pick up some sheathes or whatever so I don't cut my hand off while I figure out the drawers. I have like two gadget drawers and it's a mix of like sentimental stuff from my grandparent's kitchen that I never use, garbage, and duplicates so I can probably get room freed up. I'm a huge fan of the Victorinox BladeSafe. Pretty inexpensive and by far the nicest in my opinion, assuming your knife fits in it. Some of the less nice ones are like $20 which is bizarre.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 04:25
|
|
|
shovelbum posted:I've been cooking with a steak knife and paring knife for years, like a moron, I see the chefs knife in the OP that is cheap, what do you guys recommend I store it in? I do not want a magnet thing. For a universal fit I like these. They're pretty slim and they work well for me. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MF7EU2/ It's magnetic, but I assumed by "magnet thing" you mean a magnetic knife strip.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 06:21
|
|
|
What are some nice drawer based knife storage options? I have a 14” Victorinox slicer and a 240mm gyuto as my biggest knives. Price isn’t really important.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 06:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 16:39 |
|
|
I just bought one of those 11 slot bamboo drawer blocks and seems to work fine for $15 
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 06:33
|
|
