|
I do love how this thread is lawnmowers in spring and snow blowers in fall like clockwork. Being in Texas I have no other way to tell the seasons 
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 07:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 04:28 |
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I do love how this thread is lawnmowers in spring and snow blowers in fall like clockwork. Being in Texas I have no other way to tell the seasons  I wish Milfuckee made an M18 lawn mower. I've got 23aH of M18 batteries and 3 chargers so I can basically have a full lawn team on continuous battery. Probably going to buy a used riding lawnmower ...should I convert a used riding lawnmower to Miwaukee battery? No, thats dumb right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 14:53
|
|
|
Cannon_Fodder posted:While installing a bearing to my cutter head on my jointer, trying to get a new Shelix head on, I put too much pressure on the bearing housing and snapped it in half. Too much liberal application of the swing press and a hollow, deep socket to get it seated. I'm a loving idiot and very disappointed. It's been a silly few weeks. Quick update on this: I got hosed over by infinite back-order on the parts site I used. They never bothered telling me my item would never ship. Ever. Hell, they haven't replied to my requests for info. So, plan B. Used, beat up, rusted cutterhead from ebay. Worked like a charm. My jointer is now tuned and cuts like a dream. I've filled my 30gal dust collector twice since in milling up a dinner table-worth of walnut and I couldn't be more pleased. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 15:07
|
|
|
I'm making paintings with gears that move such as this: I attach the gears to the board with a bolt and a nut on the back. When I turn the mechanism the bolts spin and come loose so I started putting glue on the nuts to keep them in place but it is not resistent enough. Would soldering/welding work here? Are those metals strong enough? Can I do it for cheap? I'm thinking of those soldering pens that cost like 10 bucks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 23:07
|
|
|
That seems like overkill. I'd think a combination of threadlock and a locking nut would do the job.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
Trabant posted:That seems like overkill. I'd think a combination of threadlock and a locking nut would do the job. Thanks, I will try that. I'm a DIY noob so I didn't even know those existed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 23:26
|
|
|
For what it's worth, someone else might chime in with a better solution. To me it seems that something that gets an occasional spin probably doesn't need a captive/welded nut solution. If you were spinning the gears continuously, then it's a different story. But locking nuts are a low-cost/low-effort solution, so I think it's worth a shot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 23:37
|
|
|
Most of my paintings you just spin a couple of times every once in a while. A few are more about looking at them in motion so they could come loose. I'm going to try with superglue which seems similar to that threadlock thing you suggested and see how that goes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 00:02
|
|
|
You could also put a little sleeve/spacer thing in there to act as a bushing and then you'd be able to tighten the bolts down more without it pressing the gears so much they can't move. That'll make whatever threadlock you use much more effecting, and they'll spin easier too. If you've got an Ace or something there's usually nylon, brass, aluminum, whatever available and really anything the right size would work for this I think.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 00:06
|
|
|
Trabant posted:That seems like overkill. I'd think a combination of threadlock and a locking nut would do the job. Yeah, a nylon locknut ought to be fine by itself. Alternately put some blue (or red if you're really sadistic) loctite on it and it's not going to go anywhere. Running the bolt through a bushing (as said ^^^) would be even better still, but you'd probably want to use loctite anyway.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 00:30
|
|
|
Thanks will try that as well and let you guys know how it goes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 00:32
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:
That would be....very interesting. Put ya Macguyver hat on, yo.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 01:00
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:
Probably not enough juice. Ryobi makes a 38" riding mower that uses a 75Ah lead-acid battery. They claim it's good for 2 hours, but we know that's probably optimistic. Not sure how it's built, but I'd guess it has separate motors for blades and drive. If you converted a gas rider, those are all one engine driven by belts. Usually 15HP+, so you'd need a beefy electric motor.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 01:21
|
|
|
Try sex bolts on your paintings.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 01:32
|
|
|
B-Nasty posted:Probably not enough juice. Ryobi makes a 38" riding mower that uses a 75Ah lead-acid battery. They claim it's good for 2 hours, but we know that's probably optimistic. Yea it’s a dumb idea I guess. I went down a whole path because I do have a 7.5HP single to three phase converter and no machine shop to use it in anymore but sadly no way to go 12V DC to 3ph 208V AC.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 01:47
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:
Get on of these https://greenworkscommercial.com/gz60r-82-volt-60-ride-on-zero-turn-mower I had a blast the five minutes I spent demoing it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 01:54
|
|
|
bred posted:Try sex bolts on your paintings. Oh, those might actually be perfect.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 02:00
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:
Earlier this year I thought the same thing for Makita. They do have several lawnmowers, but the pricing was so high I just went for end of season kobalt and started a whole new battery collection. I really wanted to keep everything as one system, but I guess some things will forever be a pipe dream. At least it’s been really good to me so far
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 07:12
|
|
|
Chernabog posted:Oh, those might actually be perfect. One tip for those - if you get bookbinding posts with a male screw in each end you’ll have a better time stopping them from unscrewing (unless you use threadlocker). The basic sex bolt/chicago bolt etc that has a female and male side often has no way to hold the female side still without marring it up with pliers. I’ve used this sort of thing with some success: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171568637977 As usual the US is better equipped with shops for this type of project. I suspect a Tandy Leather or something like that would get you something if you’re near one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 14:01
|
|
|
One more screw suggestion because it's my favorite type of screw: Shoulder screw If you're threading straight into the wood it might not work great but if you're doing a through hole with a bit in the back side it'll be great. Shoulder screws get used as a pivot point all the time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 19:16
|
|
|
So I was looking online in my area for a bigger lathe for my woodworking projects and I came across this. Its listed for $1500, which actually seems like a pretty good deal? What do you think? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 02:32
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:So I was looking online in my area for a bigger lathe for my woodworking projects and I came across this. Its listed for $1500, which actually seems like a pretty good deal? What do you think? That'd make some bitchin pens for sure
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 02:37
|
|
|
I see those size lathes occasionally. $1500 is probably scrap price. It'll cost 4x that to get riggers to move it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 02:40
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:So I was looking online in my area for a bigger lathe for my woodworking projects and I came across this. Its listed for $1500, which actually seems like a pretty good deal? What do you think? That's what a lathe that size is worth. It's priced by the pound because nobody wants something that old for a proper shop, no home gamer has the space or the power to run it and it will cost you nearly 5 figures to move it from there to the point that's it set up and functional again. Look harder and you'll find the same for "free". I've been offered multiple things like that in the last decade and politely declined.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 02:50
|
|
|
Couple drill questions: 1. I'll be doing about 700 soft of drywall. Think this warrants a drywall screwgun vs. Dimple attachments? 2. Is a mud mixer/slow drill worthwhile for mixing the mud for such a project? I also suspect well be doing some tile for a small bathroom, possibly two. Rental is an option as well. I currently have a combo kit and an additional corded hammer drill. Trying to see where spending my money would be wise.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 03:05
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:Couple drill questions: What's that, about 20+ 4x8 standard sheets? As the combo kit has a regular drill, an appropriate dimpler bit at low torque can take care of install, although it might be a tad slower than the screwgun's clutch factor. Maybe see how you feel after 4-5 sheets, but I think you'll be ok. If the hammer drill has a regular drill setting, it should do fine for mixing mud. Just get the paddle and rock with it. Or get pre-mix if you're just doing bed & tape.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 03:54
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:Couple drill questions: 700sq ft ain’t very much drywall, that’s only 22ish full size boards. A regular drill/driver will be fine, maybe grab an extra battery.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 04:02
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:Couple drill questions: Yankee screwdriver and a stick. The most important thing for any project is how much character it builds and how much you can tell everyone about your suffering.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 09:31
|
|
|
Vindolanda posted:Yankee screwdriver and a stick. The most important thing for any project is how much character it builds and how much you can tell everyone about your suffering. You're going about this all wrong. They need to use horsehair plaster and lath for the max old school suffering.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 12:36
|
|
|
Is a Yankee screwdriver an actually useful tool these days? I love old school tools but I'm not a masochist.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 19:10
|
|
|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is a Yankee screwdriver an actually useful tool these days? I have a Bit Brace that I use whenever I can justify it. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 19:22
|
|
|
Hahah thanks for the tips everyone. And I learnt that things called a Yankee screwdriver! Doubly whammy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 19:29
|
|
|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is a Yankee screwdriver an actually useful tool these days? Ive never once used one to screw anything in, but I inherited an old one with drill bits from my grandfather and it has been absolutely the only tool for the job the three or four times i've needed it. Almost always drilling under something heavy that you can't move or in a corner or narrow slot where a power drill won't fit. Delicate stuff too, you can really feather the bit in and it won't walk on you.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 20:01
|
|
|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is a Yankee screwdriver an actually useful tool these days? I've had one since before cordless were a thing and sometimes you'd go to a jobsite and there'd be no dang electricity on yet. The one I've got now has a plastic handle, not like the older ones with wood handles. So cool.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2020 21:51
|
|
|
Tell me all about ladders vs scaffolding vs ??? I need to replace some fascia and probably do some other surgery and repaint on the gable ends of my house. The peak of the roof is about 20-22' off the ground. I have an extension ladder that big, but the roof sticks out about 2' from the wall so I can't get to the end of the roof that I need to work on. The stabilizers I've seen all give 10" of standoff which I'm not sure is enough. What's the best way to get up there? I can borrow a friend's 14' A-frame that will get me to 16-18'. 2 extension ladders with jacks and scaffolding between them? Not exactly cheap either. I have one section of this kind of scaffolding, and maybe this giant tower would work? https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640988_200640988 Expensive, but it would let me finally do some rewiring/insulation at my shop too. I'm not sure how stable it would feel 18' up. Are there other options I'm missing? I don't usually have any help, so one-person capable options are best.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2020 01:08
|
|
|
Can't help you directly but I know Jaded Burnout had talk in his thread about scaffolding (that he eventually bought some of), UK products there of course but some of the discussion might be illuminating for you.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2020 03:00
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:700sq ft ain’t very much drywall, that’s only 22ish full size boards. A regular drill/driver will be fine, maybe grab an extra battery. I mis-represented the job - it's a basement including a bunch of bulkhead and ceilings. It's looking like we're doing about 40/20 8'/12' sheets all in. It sounds like I'll still be ok though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2020 04:16
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:I mis-represented the job - it's a basement including a bunch of bulkhead and ceilings. I mean, I've done worse with a dewalt 18v drill and full sized battery pack with a dimple bit. I WOULD NOT SUGGEST IT. But a 20v impact with the right bit and the little battery sounds magical compared to that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2020 04:25
|
|
|
The dimple bits drove me crazy and stripped screws before they were sunk so I just used a drill (impact was too easy to blow through the paper) and set the clutch and paid attention and had good luck doing that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2020 05:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 04:28 |
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The dimple bits drove me crazy and stripped screws before they were sunk so I just used a drill (impact was too easy to blow through the paper) and set the clutch and paid attention and had good luck doing that. You gotta go full fast with no clutch for the dimple bits to work. And you need to be going in at least mostly straight for it to correct/dimple. It works, but you need to be ready to send it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2020 06:06
|
|