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Bloody Hedgehog posted:they come with lids
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Nov 13, 2020 19:38
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Steel cups or bust, imo. Nothing you should be working with will dissolve them and you buy one set that'll last a lifetime.
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Nov 13, 2020 21:37
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grassy gnoll posted:Steel cups or bust, imo. Nothing you should be working with will dissolve them and you buy one set that'll last a lifetime. my first time casting plastic i mixed the resin in a metal cup i still haven't finished chipping all the plastic from it
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Nov 13, 2020 21:40
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But it didn't dissolve. 
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Nov 14, 2020 02:02
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:These are the the cups you want. Perfect size, good flex so they don't crack when mixing, and they come with lids if you need to store mixes for a week or two. I bought a bulk lot of those and a bulk lot of the 1/2oz cups. I use the 1/2oz cups far more often then the 1oz cups, but I couldn't find a link for them on Amazon  For more frugal modeling, I bought these cocktail straws for transferring paint from the bottles to the mixing cups and these cheap plastic plates for paint/glue pallets and for a place to keep subassemblies so they aren't just scattered all over my desk. I use lacquer, enamel, and acrylics and haven't had any problems with the cups, plates, or straws. Pierzak posted:That's a funny way to spell miniature palettes. You are 100% right about that. That's exactly what I use them for, too.
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Nov 14, 2020 04:29
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I've started using small strips of regular kitchen aluminum foil for a palette. I have disposable medicine cups for mixing oil washes, etc. Those little artist's palettes are a pain in the rear end to clean.
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Nov 14, 2020 05:20
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So I bought an Everlasting Wet Palette and I'm not 100% convinced. The pros: * The sponge holds just the right amount of water (you need to refill it every 1 hour or so, but that's mostly because I use the excess water on the sides to tip my brush) and is quite thin. * The paper sheet itself is just the right composition, I find it better than the baking sheet I was using before. * I like the form factor of the small version of their palette. The cons: * While the lid and the bottom half are a very good fit, they are not even remotely air-tight. It means the paint will dry after a couple of days top. I've had better experience with some tuperware boxes or those plastic containers that they sometimes sell ham in to keep it fresh. So I think I'll keep the sponge and sheet but replace the case with something actually airtight.
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Nov 14, 2020 11:58
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Fuckin carpet monster strikes again. I was cutting a steering column off a sprue and it launched into the stratosphere. Now my drunk rear end is going to be crawling on all fours with a flashlight like Sherlock Holmes all night.
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Nov 15, 2020 01:10
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:These are the the cups you want. Perfect size, good flex so they don't crack when mixing, and they come with lids if you need to store mixes for a week or two. Are these ones that lacquers won't destroy?
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Nov 15, 2020 01:44
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Suzaku posted:Are these ones that lacquers won't destroy? Haven't tried it with lacquers, but probably not.
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Nov 15, 2020 01:48
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Suzaku posted:Are these ones that lacquers won't destroy? They are safe to use with lacquer. Edit: I guess it depends on what your lacquer thinner is made of. The cups are made of Polypropylene (recycling symbol 5) and the lids are made of PET (1). Wikipedia says that lacquer thinner is most often acetone based and this PET solvent compatibility chart says that PET is not compatible with acetone, so either wikipedia is lying to me or the lacquer thinners I've used (Sunnyside and Nanoskin brands) are not acetone based. I'm going to go soak a lid in acetone and see what happens. edit 2: Trip report. The cups are immune to the power of acetone, but the lids are not. Oddly, the acetone didn't melt the lid as I expected it would - it just made it very brittle. The lids and cups are both safe to use with Sunnyside lacquer thinner. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 02:00
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I use some cheap polystyrene shot glasses for mixing my paints and stuff in but they do not stand up to the thinners I use to clean my airbrush but seem to do fine with lacquer thinners. I don't tend to use my airbrush all that much cause I have to use it outside and is a pain to set up and clean everytime I use it. particularly for small parts and stuff that I could just brush paint.
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Nov 15, 2020 02:08
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FiskTireBoy posted:Fuckin carpet monster strikes again. I was cutting a steering column off a sprue and it launched into the stratosphere. Now my drunk rear end is going to be crawling on all fours with a flashlight like Sherlock Holmes all night. Don't lose hope ! Carpet monster gave me back a piece yesterday... a full week later, six feet away, and on the other side of two medium-sized objects from where I had been working. Truly, carpet monster works in mysterious ways.
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Nov 15, 2020 03:15
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     I really adore the original designed model builds by Ken McConnell. I'm curious if there's any other makers that do kitbash/original design ship models that you would recommend checking out?
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Nov 15, 2020 09:31
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FiskTireBoy posted:Fuckin carpet monster strikes again. I was cutting a steering column off a sprue and it launched into the stratosphere. Now my drunk rear end is going to be crawling on all fours with a flashlight like Sherlock Holmes all night. Put a piece of cloth around the head of a vacuum cleaner and go fish.
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Nov 15, 2020 12:21
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SkunkDuster posted:They are safe to use with lacquer. Thank you! I'm using Mr Color leveling thinner, so I imagine they'd be safe with that, too. This solves my eternal mixing cup problem.
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Nov 18, 2020 01:14
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Suzaku posted:Thank you! I'm using Mr Color leveling thinner, so I imagine they'd be safe with that, too. This solves my eternal mixing cup problem. Yup, I use Mr. Color lacquers and leveling thinner and they work fine.
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Nov 18, 2020 03:17
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Is there a cutting mat reference people would recommend? Something available in Europe. I looked at Green Stuff World because I liked all the things I bought from them, but the largest they have is A3. I'd like A2 or maybe A1. Any recommendation?
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Nov 18, 2020 18:42
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Furism posted:Is there a cutting mat reference people would recommend? Something available in Europe. Cutting mats are pretty much all the same, just search for "Self Healing Cutting Mat" from any local art supply. You can get them in just about any size you need.
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Nov 18, 2020 18:48
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If gou pay more then a few euro for one you are robbing yourself.
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Nov 18, 2020 19:08
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You want a multi layer cutting mat. Something you can see the color, rubber, layers on the edges. I've bought one cutting mat that was just a printed sheet plastic thing... It would protect the table, but wouldn't stay still, and the tips of the blades drifted and behaved badly when they cut in. They are DEFINITELY not the same. Good ones will say they're 3-5-7 layer. Good ones also don't really wear out? Like My mom and stepmom have (fiskars, xacto) cutting mats older than I am self healing cutting matts that are... still fine today. And they self heal as expected. You're more likely to get a good one, if you get a mat that's specifically for using with fabric. "less than $20 and it's likely to be questionable" edit: when did I become a cutting mat expert? wtf. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 19:34
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Seconded, I bought a cheap one and while it's definitely sturdy enough to stay on my table the upper layer with the centimeter grid on it is already peeling off.
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Nov 18, 2020 19:43
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Don't buy from Green Stuff World in general. If they're not actually Nazis, they sure do seem to have a repeat problem with Nazi imagery and racist behavior.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:08
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Depends on where you live, but I got two of those multi layered ones at the Action store for under €5,-. One for cutting and building, and one I keep clean for painting.
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Nov 18, 2020 21:10
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Saw it earlier but Parafilm is the bomb and leaves no residue, IDK how I ever did windshield molding before (I'm guessing poorly) Also bottle caps make awesome disposable palettes and I never have a shortage on hand Furism posted:Is there a cutting mat reference people would recommend? Something available in Europe. Look at something from Alvin (RIP) or Olfa - it is the one of the few things I havent found a decent knockoff of hobbywise. Ive been nothing but pleased with my Alvin mats 
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Nov 18, 2020 21:50
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Kanine posted:
Hell yeah, I love kitbashes!
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Nov 19, 2020 13:14
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Thanks for all the advice on cutting mats!
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Nov 19, 2020 15:58
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I've been reading through the earlier parts of this thread for a while, and when I (hopefully) move into my new place I'll have enough space to set up a serious workspace for more stuff like this. In the meantime, I was so jazzed seeing wood model ships that I decided to start small:  It took about 4 hours and was the most satisfying thing I've done this week. I've ordered a couple other Metal Earth models to fill the urge!
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Nov 21, 2020 05:07
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Soul Dentist posted:I've been reading through the earlier parts of this thread for a while, and when I (hopefully) move into my new place I'll have enough space to set up a serious workspace for more stuff like this. In the meantime, I was so jazzed seeing wood model ships that I decided to start small: That's pretty awesome, and not one I've ever seen before. One reason I am currently re-posting my build log as a project thread is to motivate myself to get back into the shop and make more sawdust. I'm trying to decide whether I want to finish one of the 3 or 4 projects that I've already started, or just take a swan dive into the dark side, and start a full scratch build of an extreme clipper ship. It's something I really want to do, but I have doubts about my ability to see it through to the finish... well and to be honest, doubts about my actual ability to do all the necessary work to create an end result I will be happy with while relying on nobody else to create all the various parts for me to use. I would really love to make it at 1:48 scale instead of the 1:72 scale that I have the information/plans to do, but I'm not honestly sure I could fit it into my workshop, or if I could, whether I could get the finished ship out of the room! Fully rigged (which is what I would want to do) at 1:72 scale would be 5'9" long, x 3'6" high x 1'6" wide. Converting all the plans to 1:48 would result in a finished model (if my math is right) of 8' 7.5" long x 5' 3" tall x 2' 3" wide. In theory that would fit through the door, but the length on any sort of rolling stand I can think of might not let me make the odd dogleg turn out the exit of my workshop. Pretty sure that means that I need to stick with the 1:72 scale, but we'll see. Starting on this will be a fair ways off, as before I can start I will need to build a fairly special purpose building board (or slipway) and a fair number of specialized tools to work for the frame lofting, and of course source a significant amount of either boxwood or swiss pear (or some similar hardwood). In addition I'll probably need to get a couple of full sized wood working tools to do the re-sawing of the wood into working sizes, although depending on what size I can source the wood, I might be able to do that with my benchtop bandsaw, although I will absolutely need to get a good ripping blade (or 10) for the saw. If you have any questions about wooden ships, ask away! There are a couple other guys in this thread that have or are building wooden ships also.
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Nov 21, 2020 05:57
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You are actually the entirety of why I'm jazzed about wooden ships. I'd love to see a build log of an admiralty or plank-on-frame model done with your level of DIY and attention! I think any actual questions I'd have would come after I start working with the material. My plan right now is to buy a kit (thinking about Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat) and build just what I can with the kit before I get sucked into scratchbuilding and never being satisfied with anything. I know this is ridiculous and I will spend plenty buying clamps, jigs, etc. but the reason I did a Metal Earth kit was to make sure I enjoyed actually still being patient and focused. The last model I did was a Star Wars model I got at Disney World in the 90s, and I knew nothing about it. I'd love advice for metalworking -- soldering, brasswork, casting, anything -- as I have no experience doing anything at any scale with metal.
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Nov 21, 2020 06:30
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I'm far enough along in the Bluenose that I am looking hard at the next project. It's either going to be converting a paper model of the fisheries patrol cruiser CGS Canada into wood/plastic or an admiralty style model of HMAV Bounty.
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Nov 21, 2020 06:42
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I am currently extremely up to no good.
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Nov 21, 2020 06:46
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Ooh let me also ask this. As nothing I've read has even talked about rigging so far. Why are models rigged with slack or furled sails? Why isn't there a proscribed method for (e.g.) Elmer's gluing sails into billowed shapes as if under hard sail? For that matter, why are all the models I see Admiralty inspection ready? Why don't wooden models incorporate any of the weathering or nods towards realistic use that tank or airplane models do? e. Or do they do this and it's not seeming that way?
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Nov 21, 2020 06:56
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my first thought is that I would go insane trying to paint or glue scale barnacles to a hull
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Nov 21, 2020 07:00
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Soul Dentist posted:You are actually the entirety of why I'm jazzed about wooden ships. I'd love to see a build log of an admiralty or plank-on-frame model done with your level of DIY and attention! I think any actual questions I'd have would come after I start working with the material. I'm not very good at metalworking. I did minimal work with brass and soldering on the Serenity, just enough to scrape by, and there is a lot of that type of work needed for the clipper I want to do which is one of the really scary parts for me! Kit wise, the MS Longboat kit is decent, but it's also tiny, so just be aware of that going in. I own the kit but have never started it. Soul Dentist posted:Ooh let me also ask this. As nothing I've read has even talked about rigging so far. I've seen a few guys build ships with weathering, but it's really not the focus of wooden builds. I can't give you a really deep reason why for everyone, but for me I think it's about the beauty of the medium (wood) itself. Why after spending 1000+ hours making this creation of wood, would I consider trying to scuff it up and make it into an old looking weathered thing? To each his own, but if I wanted to do a weathered/patinaed build I think my model would be plastic. If I'm building in wood, I want the wood to be seen. On sails - It's a combination of personal taste and in many ways a nod to historic wooden ship models. Unlike plastic models that are a relatively 'recent' thing, wooden sailing ship models have actually been made for 500 or more years, and many of the old original models can still be seen today in museums all over the world. Those are the inspiration for the models and what many try to emulate in their builds. There are definitely some that build with sails filled with wind, but unless the ship is set into a water base (which covers all the work put into the hull below the waterline), it kind of looks odd IMO to have full sails. Furled sails are much easier also, and bare poles like my sloop can be either because the modeler doesn't want all his work to be covered up by bits of plain cloth, or he doesn't want to deal with trying to make them look realistic at scale (this was my primary reason to be honest).
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Nov 21, 2020 07:10
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How does one even get into wooden ship building? Even as a plastic modeler with seven years of experience under my belt, the idea of building a big wooden ship model still seems unapproachably difficult. I envision opening the box on a wooden kit and just having absolutely no idea what to do or even where to begin.
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Nov 21, 2020 13:29
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Gewehr 43 posted:How does one even get into wooden ship building? Even as a plastic modeler with seven years of experience under my belt, the idea of building a big wooden ship model still seems unapproachably difficult. I envision opening the box on a wooden kit and just having absolutely no idea what to do or even where to begin. I looked at a Model Shipways longboat a few times, but kept getting scared and closed the tab. So I'm also interested in the answer to this question. And, what tools and workspace setup does a beginner need to get started with a build? Not something as awesome and complicated as what you're working on, but smaller, like a longboat?
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Nov 21, 2020 16:11
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Asked this in a separate thread but figured it might get some responses here: Anyone have positive or negative experiences with these printable transfer/decal sheets? Or have another brand you'd recommend?
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Nov 21, 2020 17:38
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Baronjutter posted:I am currently extremely up to no good.  tell us more
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Nov 21, 2020 17:46
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Gewehr 43 posted:How does one even get into wooden ship building? Even as a plastic modeler with seven years of experience under my belt, the idea of building a big wooden ship model still seems unapproachably difficult. I envision opening the box on a wooden kit and just having absolutely no idea what to do or even where to begin. The MS Longboat was designed by a guy named Chuck Passaro who writes pretty good instructions so I imagine he tells you fairly clearly what to do, and in what order! Between the instructions, a bunch of build logs on modelshipworld.com, and actual email access to Chuck (can be found on his website - https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/about-us.php) I don't think this model would have you wondering what to do next. Suzaku posted:I looked at a Model Shipways longboat a few times, but kept getting scared and closed the tab. So I'm also interested in the answer to this question. Especially for a small model like the MS Longboat, it's really pretty simple to get started. You can make that model easily on your kitchen table, a desk, or whatever workspace you currently use for plastic models. Some of the basic tools you probably already have, like an X-acto type knife! Basically when starting, don't be me. Only buy tools and things as you need them. This may slow you down a bit but it keeps the costs very reasonable. The longboat can be built with a hobby knife, some wood glue, a few different grades of sandpaper, and some clamps. Clamps can often be simple things like clothespins or rubber-bands depending on what your needs are, and you can go hog-wild and never have too many (kind of like full sized wood working). You might also want some CA glue (super glue) although I personally avoid it. The wood you would be working with on the longboat can be cut with the hobby knife, so you don't even need a small saw, although a small micro-saw like the UMM saw I link in my project log is super awesome and probably would be useful for plastic modelling also. Same sort of advice for things like good side-cutters and small pliers. If you are building plastic then you likely already have a cutting mat to work on, along with painting supplies if you want to paint the model. For wood finishes if you don't want to paint, then you would likely want to get whatever kind of stain or finish needed. From there, just go! If you have issues with the MS Longboat instructions, then you can go to modelshipworld.com and find dozens of build logs for that specific model to hopefully help you get past any questions that come up. The Locator fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 21, 2020 18:09
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