|
What was the original military use for duct tape?
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 18:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 03:19 |
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:What was the original military use for duct tape? Covering people's mouths.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 18:46
|
|
|
I'm not on the up-and-up on 220v vs 110v for tools that can be wired for either. I have a jointer that I could rewire for 220v. Besides the "you're asking, which means you're going to kill yourself by playing with electricity", what are some other pros of one vs the other?
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 18:50
|
|
|
it was used as a general purpose adhesive stick-this-thing-to-that-thing-temporarily tape. which is fine. for field repair use. hvac installs a design lifespan of 15 years, and ductwork itself is just sheet metal tubes that air flows through, and they should last just about forever, so duct tape is really not a permanent solution for them. the actual solution is this goopy stuff called "mastic" that the tin-knockers are supposed to smear on every duct section joint.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 18:55
|
|
|
Gaff tape is everything you wish duct tape actually was. Cannon_Fodder posted:I'm not on the up-and-up on 220v vs 110v for tools that can be wired for either. As I understand it, a machine running on 220 draws half the amperage as one running on 110, and since amperage draw is what determines the required wire size, you can use much smaller (and cheaper) wire for a 220 circuit. So if a 1hp motor draws 10A running 110 you’re only gonna be able to run 1 per 20A circuit, but if it only pulls 5A wired 220, you could run three of them on the same circuit. In practice for a home shop, the main benefit is it frees up space on your 110 circuits for stuff that can’t use 220. There may be some small effiency/performance gains on 220, but I think in practice it’s not significant. Above a certain hp (1.5-2?) the amperage draw is too great to run on most 110 circuits and things have to be 220. Single phase motors cap out at 5hp anyway, and anything much bigger than that is 3-phase 220/440.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 19:05
|
|
|
everything except for price. gaff tape is great as long as you aren't paying for it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 19:10
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Gaff tape is everything you wish duct tape actually was. Very clear and concise. Thank you! Makes for an excellent argument to getting a new dust collector as well. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 19:16
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:What was the original military use for duct tape? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bZIcMcSXZk&t=108s
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 19:58
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Gaff tape is everything you wish duct tape actually was. The lower amperage in fact, results in cooler wiring and motor, and is far more efficient than 120v, to my understanding, so your tools will last far longer. Europe being predominantly 240v are totally ahead of us on that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2020 20:37
|
|
|
Does anyone know if you can get dies (if that’s the word) for sheet metal punches that would let you set rivets with them? I’ve got one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Throat-Power-Punch-Portable-Sheet/dp/B078H81JBH Or one of the many clones of the type at least. It seems like something that one could thread in an anvil and die to and set a reasonably thick non-ferrous rivet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 14:14
|
|
|
You talking solid rivets? You could buy a die set for a rivet squeezer and try to adapt it, but that tool has a lot less leverage than a typical squeezer would, I don't think it'd work all that well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 15:34
|
|
|
ThinkFear posted:You talking solid rivets? You could buy a die set for a rivet squeezer and try to adapt it, but that tool has a lot less leverage than a typical squeezer would, I don't think it'd work all that well. Probably true - I was thinking tubular rivets or copper saddler rivets with the strength of my ancestors behind me. I suppose a rivet squeezer is what I should be looking for.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 16:18
|
|
|
Quick question fellow tool nerds. Why do even high end drill press manufacturers put interns in charge of making the table lock down handles?
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 16:53
|
|
|
If things were perfect right away, you would be deprived the joy of buying accessories
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 17:00
|
|
|
bobua posted:Quick question fellow tool nerds. If you've reached the point in your life where you need a high end drill press you should be able to make your own table lock down handles 
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 17:37
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:If you've reached the point in your life where you need a high end drill press you should be able to make your own table lock down handles Maybe I was soliciting design recommendations 
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 17:43
|
|
|
bobua posted:Quick question fellow tool nerds. Drill presses are like the neglected step-children of machinery design for some reason. Even as manufacturing has gotten basically better and cheaper, the design of drill presses seems to have peaked about 1940 and they have gotten actively less user-friendly ever since.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 17:53
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Drill presses are like the neglected step-children of machinery design for some reason. Even as manufacturing has gotten basically better and cheaper, the design of drill presses seems to have peaked about 1940 and they have gotten actively less user-friendly ever since. Except for on/off switches. I recently got rid of a fairly new small press for a much larger and heavier duty old one, and the power switch is this tiny little rocker on one side of the main housing. The newer one had this paddle right on the front you could just slap to turn it off. Other than that it's an upgrade in every way once I got it cleaned up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 19:14
|
|
|
My drill press got LASERZ motherfuckers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2020 23:13
|
|
|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:Except for on/off switches. I recently got rid of a fairly new small press for a much larger and heavier duty old one, and the power switch is this tiny little rocker on one side of the main housing. The newer one had this paddle right on the front you could just slap to turn it off. I mean, it is fairly cheap to add a slap paddle on/off switch to any piece of equipment. https://smile.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71007-220V-Paddle-Switch/dp/B00KPEEPAW/
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2020 06:03
|
|
|
n0tqu1tesane posted:I mean, it is fairly cheap to add a slap paddle on/off switch to any piece of equipment. Oh hell yeah, I'll have to check to see how much work it is to add one of these. fake edit: pretty easy it looks like oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Nov 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2020 07:12
|
|
|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:Oh hell yeah, I'll have to check to see how much work it is to add one of these. If you don't want to wire one up yourself there are also completed boxes with outlets https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Singl...ps%2C185&sr=8-7 But as you said, it is really easy to wire up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2020 19:25
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:If you don't want to wire one up yourself there are also completed boxes with outlets I might use one of those in line versions for other tools but the wiring on the drill press is super simple. The hardest part will be mounting it securely to the press housing. I might have to drill and tap the big casting to get it on there tight.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2020 20:26
|
|
|
tools for sale SP tools has some good deal for black friday on at the moment if you're in Australia. Conveniently I bought a different set last week for my car breakdown set (as well as a LiPo jumpstarter and small torch) so I missed the deal but if you're after a cheap set of tools it's in today only
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2020 06:31
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:The lower amperage in fact, results in cooler wiring and motor, and is far more efficient than 120v, to my understanding, so your tools will last far longer. Europe being predominantly 240v are totally ahead of us on that. Voltage helps performance, but while the lower voltage at least has some advantage for safety, fifty hertz is just bad. Motors and transformers have to be larger because the iron cores of these devices have to be sized to handle the magnetic field created in one half cycle. Longer half cycle means bigger core. The safety factor was more of a concern before GFCIs, granted. MrOnBicycle posted:What was the original military use for duct tape? Waterproofing Platystemon fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Nov 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2020 08:17
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:Voltage helps performance, but while the lower voltage at least has some advantage for safety, fifty hertz is just bad. Motors and transformers have to be larger because the iron cores of these devices have to be sized to handle the magnetic field created in one half cycle. Longer half cycle means bigger core. So the arguement isn't "50hz is wrong", just "50hz is less ideal than 60hz, which is less ideal than..." ?
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2020 15:33
|
|
|
 DeWalt 735X planer for $499 on Amazon
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2020 22:32
|
|
|
I want to be a tooltoucher again, and I think a good hobby to get back into it would be renewing and modifying old hand tools and kitchen knives I worked maintenance in a factory for almost a year so I'm familiar with most power tools but the only power tools I own are an 18v Milwaukee Fuel hammer drill and impact driver Based on my classes at YouTube University I think the most important things to get at the start are probably a rotary tool, vise and bench grinder; I have a work surface I can mount a vise and bench grinder on so that's not an issue I'm on a tight budget, so I'm looking to not spend any more than necessary on those items but I'm not sure what to get A vise seems easy enough to get, there are plenty of things that look appropriate for $30-50 on Amazon I'm completely lost on bench grinders because there's no way I can afford a new one and all the used ones I've seen on craigslist and nextdoor are brands I'm unfamiliar with and I don't know if they're any good; I figure a 6" would probably get the job done but if I should go bigger I'd really like to know before buying As far as corded rotary tools go I see 3 options: I could get a fairly cheap foreign brand with a bunch of attachments for $40 bucks or so and have lots of speed settings and probably a little over an amp's worth of power, maybe around the same cost for something less sophisticated but more powerful, like a 4 or 5 amp Black & Decker, or shell out a c note for a ~2 amp Dremel. I figure option 1 is probably the right one for me because if I need more cutting power I can probably just put a cutting wheel on my drill, but I'm really not sure about it. Any advice on what to get would be appreciated, especially on the bench grinder because I'm totally lost on those edit: in case it matters, I have a very limited amount of space to work in
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 10:49
|
|
|
Filthy Hans posted:I want to be a tooltoucher again, and I think a good hobby to get back into it would be renewing and modifying old hand tools and kitchen knives I can help you out here, I own all of these things and purchased them cheap (because I too am poor and budget conscious). WEN is your friend here! First off the rotary tool, you want to get the Corded Basic kit, its only $20 and you get everything you need. Rotary tools are all the same, DO NOT BUY DREMEL. I have both a Dremel and a WEN and there is no difference in performance or quality: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ Second the vise. You don't need anything big or fancy, you can get the cheapest piece of poo poo on amazon if all you plan to hold is old knives and hand tools. This will do you for $35: https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV4-Home-Vise-41/dp/B00YS401X0/ Finally the Bench Grinder. I don't know where you got the impression that these are expensive, but they are not really. You can get a WEN bench grinder for about $50. You will also want to get a wire wheel attachment and a buffing wheel: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4276-2-1-Amp-Grinder-Flexible/dp/B00LPFIPQ0/ https://www.amazon.com/WEN-WW6012-6-Inch-Crimped-Adapters/dp/B07KKZWPV8/ https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Thick-Spiral-Buffing-80-Ply/dp/B003UOLUQ6/ Total cost around $120. You can get this cheaper if you live in an area with pawn shops. Check out the local pawn shops for all of the great half price stolen tools. Rutibex fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Nov 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 14:13
|
|
|
If possible I'd try to find a second hand old vise. Comparing the quality and finish of the old stuff I've bought of auctions / second hand to the stuff that's the same price but from China and it's a pretty massive difference in favour of the old school stuff.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 14:22
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:I can help you out here, I own all of these things and purchased them cheap (because I too am poor and budget conscious). WEN is your friend here! First off the rotary tool, you want to get the Corded Basic kit, its only $20 and you get everything you need. Rotary tools are all the same, DO NOT BUY DREMEL. I have both a Dremel and a WEN and there is no difference in performance or quality: Hey thanks a bunch, this is exactly what I needed to know. MrOnBicycle posted:If possible I'd try to find a second hand old vise. Comparing the quality and finish of the old stuff I've bought of auctions / second hand to the stuff that's the same price but from China and it's a pretty massive difference in favour of the old school stuff. We had a big old american cast iron vise but it got stolen by movers a few moves ago 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 03:25
|
|
|
Looking for recommendations for hex bits and allen wrenches for stainless fasteners I guess I was spoiled working on cars before, where pretty much everything was grade 8 / whatever the metric version of grade 8 is (8.8?). I've since switched industries and am working on industrial packaging equipment / motion power, and goddamn do stainless socket head screws like to cam out on me Any insight on specific brands / styles is much appreciated, thanks
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 11:11
|
|
|
eighty-four merc posted:Looking for recommendations for hex bits and allen wrenches for stainless fasteners I worked maintenance in a factory where a lot of the machines had stainless steel paneling and fasteners, the only brands of allen wrenches we used were Eklind and Wiha. The Eklinds seemed to work fine but the Wihas were more nicely finished. This was a pharma supply factory making rubber parts and there were all sorts of cleanliness standards we had to adhere to so I was taking panels on and off stuff every day. In my experience stainless fasteners are more susceptible to cross-threading so I'd have to be very careful every time we turned the wrench. These were pretty sizeable panels so we're talking maybe 20 bolts per panel. Of course, we had lots of tool steel fasteners as well so these wrenches had to stay hard being torqued hard in hardened steel for years without rounding edges. Also when high-priced specialists came in to do precision work like leveling off the surface of a huge mill roller or taking apart screw pumps that chop up rubber and force it through micron filters, they'd always use Wiha allen wrenches. The companies those guys worked for made boku bucks, the factory paid something like $400/hr for the labor on leveling those mill roller surfaces. https://www.amazon.com/EKLIND-17322...6736803&sr=8-43 https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-66993-Metric-L-Key-2-Pack/dp/B002S0O9PC/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=wiha+allen+wrench+set&qid=1606736913&sr=8-6 fwiw Bondhus had an excellent reputation amongst my coworkers but they just weren't present in the factory
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 13:11
|
|
|
Yup. I work on and build oceanographic equipment. Everything is stainless (or Ti). Bondhus, Wera, Wiha all make good Allen keys. My travel kit has Bondhus gold-guard long arm ball end and Bondhus short arm. My workbench has Bondhus T-handle ball ends, Gold-guard drivers, and Wera SS insert bits for working on stuff without leaving any steel residue that will rust. I have Eklind out in the shop. Just remember, Allen keys are wear items. The really small sizes usually only last a year under my usage. They're cheap enough. I've been jonesing for one of the Wera sets with the neat holder and color-coded grips.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 13:24
|
|
|
Wrong thread
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Nov 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 18:44
|
|
|
The Wera ones with that special fitment seem amazing. Edit: These, the Hex-plus: https://www.amazon.de/05022089001-Spanners-BlackLaser-9-Piece-Multi-Coloured/dp/B01H88GSW0?ref_=ast_sto_dp Seem to get great reviews on YouTube. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Nov 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 19:14
|
|
|
When I had a machine with one specific hex screw (think it was 2 mm) that absolutely had to come out cleanly or my life was going to be hell if it rounded, I finally broke down and bought a PB Swiss t-handle for it. It was like a revelation. Stupid expensive, but never ever rounded the head of the screw out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 04:13
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Yup. I work on and build oceanographic equipment. Everything is stainless (or Ti). Bondhus, Wera, Wiha all make good Allen keys. My travel kit has Bondhus gold-guard long arm ball end and Bondhus short arm. My workbench has Bondhus T-handle ball ends, Gold-guard drivers, and Wera SS insert bits for working on stuff without leaving any steel residue that will rust. I have Eklind out in the shop. Just remember, Allen keys are wear items. The really small sizes usually only last a year under my usage. They're cheap enough. I got some Bondhus gold-guard ball-end allen wrenches a couple years ago for Christmas and they are absolutely worth it. I don't use them a ton, but when I do I'm really glad to have them. Especially when you compare them to the free pack-in wrenches that come with everything.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 05:18
|
|
|
Thanks for the recs guys I actually have brand new sets of bondhus (the normal, black variety) in SAE/metric in standard, long ball end, stubby, and stubby double ball varieties... but don't have access to them for a couple weeks long story short, a bunch of my tools got stolen from the company work van, and I'm leaving the job/state headed east in 2 weeks, so I had them shipped to my mom out west in case lead times didn't work with the move, so she could mail them to me I also ordered some Wera 1/4" hex bits in hex and ball hex varieties to try out for the consumption holiday, so I'll see how those fair I am really interested in the Wera color coded metric allens with the holding feature. I think I'll try those next
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 07:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 03:19 |
|
|
Crossposting from the quick question thread just to cover my bases:ufarn posted:I really wanna upgrade from manually screwing iFixit-grade screws to using an electric screwdriver. I also want a general-purpose screwdriver on top of that, but it'd be nice if I could use one for both.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 11:10
|
|