|
MetaJew posted:He posts photos of himself standing on all of his shelves and structures. They're probably pretty strong if they're just statically loaded? Yup, saw that, but I guess for me I wouldn't have the vertical members all the way to the floor, so I'm not sure if they'd lose strength without the ground for support. I dunno, I'm not that kind of engineer. There's a picture in there with someone who hung them over their garage door. That's functionally what I'd be doing. Garage isn't big enough for them to go all the way to the floor. Wallet posted:Depending on how pretty/finished you want your garage to be the most flexible/easy option is to just install shelving standards. Lots of different brands make them and the double-slot ones are usually interchangeable. I put a bunch up in my sheds since it makes it easy to change the shelf height if I want to change what I am storing or whatever. How strong are they? Those wire/hook things look flimsy, but I'll take a look. Not that I'd be putting hundreds of pounds on them, or trying to climb them, but I'd always be worried that stacking a bunch of stuff will add up. Pretty isn't the name of the game for me. Strong, durable, and functional is, though.
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 01:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 09:36 |
|
|
DaveSauce posted:Yup, saw that, but I guess for me I wouldn't have the vertical members all the way to the floor, so I'm not sure if they'd lose strength without the ground for support. I dunno, I'm not that kind of engineer. Like I said, I have not finished installing them because other things keep getting in the way, but here is an album of the ones I built. At some point I ran out of 2x4 so I made the last few with plywood sides. These are (partially) installed in a shed with bare studs so I didn't have to worry about the vertical member. I was also concerned about having to buy 6" long screws to fasten a "false" stud to the actual studs, through drywall so my plan to install these in my garage are scrapped. They are assembled with glue and screws and will be glued and screwed to the studs of the shed. Since I am told screws often fail in shear I don't think I would trust these to hold a ton of weight if the stud doesn't run to the floor. I would probably use lag bolts to fasten them to the wall just to be sure they are sturdy, too. https://imgur.com/a/KIPj48P 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Nov 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 05:37
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:How strong are they? Those wire/hook things look flimsy, but I'll take a look. Not that I'd be putting hundreds of pounds on them, or trying to climb them, but I'd always be worried that stacking a bunch of stuff will add up. The thing holding the actual weight is one of many versions (usually interchangeable) of 2 slot shelving standard (e.g. the first ones that come up on Amazon for me) with whatever length/strength brackets you want to use. You attach the standard directly to your studs; I don't know what the manufacturers actually recommend but I use lag bolts. You can re-cut the standards if necessary with a reciprocating or hack saw though you may need/want to drill an additional bolt hole. You can get cheaper/more expensive brackets that are rated for less/more weight—12"ers seem to be rated for between 200 and 700 pounds a pair hung at the proper distance. Here's an example Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Nov 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 23:39
|
|
|
Wallet posted:The thing holding the actual weight is one of many versions (usually interchangeable) of 2 slot shelving standard (e.g. the first ones that come up on Amazon for me) with whatever length/strength brackets you want to use. You attach the standard directly to your studs; I don't know what the manufacturers actually recommend but I use lag bolts. You can re-cut the standards if necessary with a reciprocating or hack saw though you may need/want to drill an additional bolt hole. I have these in so many rooms in my house, they're great. I just use regular ol' deck screws to mount them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 23:51
|
|
|
So I need to replace a pretty big stretch of drywall that was ripped out right before roni in my garage when they did a wiring repair/piping repairs. I want to just pay someone to come do it, but I don't know what's reasonable or not. It's about 1.5 sheets worth of repairs drywall total and I've gotten quotes as low as $650 and as high as $1800 and they all tell me they'll do the same thing: patch, float, tape, and paint-match for that price. One: if I do pay these people which quote do I go with? It's quite the price spread and I have no idea why they're giving me such crazy different numbers. Two: how hard would it be to just do it myself if I wanted to do that? Do I need any special tools I don't know about? Famous last words: I watched a couple of youtube tutorials and it didn't *seem* that hard........ But surely I'm missing something?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 06:26
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Yes! look into French Cleat systems. They’re super easy to DIY, and essentially hang off a cantilevered cleat, so you can just lift them up and shuffle them whenever you want to move something: This speaks to me. Thanks for the suggestion.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 06:54
|
|
|
L0cke17 posted:Famous last words: I watched a couple of youtube tutorials and it didn't *seem* that hard........ But surely I'm missing something? Putting up drywall isn't so hard, skimming it and making it look good is, those videos are generally by people who've had years of practice. On the other hand I'm going to do an 8x12 room from scratch myself because I've been told by local laborers they have a 3 year waiting list say this point. How hard can it be?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 07:12
|
|
|
I am terrible at drywall (this is code for "fixing anything inside or outside of the home"), but a sanding attachment for my shop vac at least cut way back on the mess.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 12:22
|
|
|
I bought one of those attachments and I just can't seem to get a smooth finish with those mesh sanding sheets, I'm probably pressing down too hard. Regardless, paying either or those quotes for one sheet of drywall just goes against the fibers in my body. The materials are like max $50 if you have the tools and under $100 if you don't, which still seems like a decent gamble to see if you can make it 'good enough'.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 14:18
|
|
|
If it’s your garage it seems like a reasonable place to try your hand, if you gently caress up and it ends up looking lovely at least you can bury it (or not have to stare at it).
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 14:49
|
|
|
The Dave posted:I bought one of those attachments and I just can't seem to get a smooth finish with those mesh sanding sheets, I'm probably pressing down too hard. What specific tools do I need? Also I've got to navigate both my dryer vent hole and my washer hookup
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 15:18
|
|
|
I won't say I'm great at drywall, but I will say I got a whole whole lot better once I learned to keep my mudding knife CLEAN. Scrape it on the edge of the tray every time you go back for more mud and keep the mud from getting any chunks in it or you get all kinds of mess. Also you need to add some water to the stuff in the bucket-it is way too thick to start with.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 15:46
|
|
|
Since it's your garage go for it, great place to learn. 1.5 sheets is enough that you'll be half decent by the time you finish. You don't need much more than a couple buckets, a 4" knife, 6" knife", a 12" trowel and a hawk or pan. I like the YouTube channel Vancouver Carpenter for an easy drywall tutorial series. I'd also recommend the bags of dry mix, I found it much more forgiving than the premixed buckets and it's cheaper too
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 15:51
|
|
|
I actually found the dry mix harder to work with but I'm also getting worse and worse at mudding. I would make the wrong size batch all the time.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 15:58
|
|
|
I’m doing my garage right now too, this is good timing. When I get around to the workbench area, I know there is a massive drywall hole I need to patch but thankfully it is behind the cabinets so who cares what it looks like. On the second round of mud/patching right now before I kilz it and buy the paint I want, this garage hasn’t been touched since it was built in ‘96. I’m only doing the back wall and right wall right now since they are accessible, with the rest of the garage to follow.   So many nail pops, holes, dents...
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 16:35
|
|
|
I did 4 sheets worth in a new room in my basement a couple months ago, and it wasn't difficult but it was messy and awful and I don't want to do it ever again. I went with the dry mix mainly because it sets up in 45 minutes (versus hours or overnight for the pre-mix stuff), so I could do the whole thing in a day. The only tools I got for it were a 4" and 10" knife and a hand sander with those mesh sheets. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 17:10
|
|
|
L0cke17 posted:So I need to replace a pretty big stretch of drywall that was ripped out right before roni in my garage when they did a wiring repair/piping repairs. I want to just pay someone to come do it, but I don't know what's reasonable or not. It's about 1.5 sheets worth of repairs drywall total and I've gotten quotes as low as $650 and as high as $1800 and they all tell me they'll do the same thing: patch, float, tape, and paint-match for that price. To give you an idea, the best drywallers + plasterers in town cost me $350 as their minimum job size for 10sqft of 5/8" patching. You cannot see where they patched including texture anywhere in my house across 3 different jobs. This was in the before times and I literally live a mile from their dispatch location and had entirely flexible scheduling. Ask around but for a garage? I would pick the cheapest quote all day long assuming that you're OK with cheap paint. I can't believe you got anyone to agree to paint it, everyone I've ever talked to has said that under duress they will prime it with whatever is on the truck. Never tint/top coat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 17:20
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Also you need to add some water to the stuff in the bucket-it is way too thick to start with. And a shot of dish soap. H110Hawk posted:To give you an idea, the best drywallers + plasterers in town cost me $350 as their minimum job size for 10sqft of 5/8" patching. You cannot see where they patched including texture anywhere in my house across 3 different jobs. This was in the before times and I literally live a mile from their dispatch location and had entirely flexible scheduling. And this is the real pro tip. Good mudders first coats will look better than my final coat before sanding. And I can ("can" not "always do") make a dead flat wall. It just takes FOREVER. They will do that first coat in half the time it takes you to find another battery to finishing mixing the pail of mud you've been fumbling around with.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 18:10
|
|
|
nm
Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Dec 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 00:31
|
|
|
Hell, your garage? I just nailed up the dry wall and painted it...
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 11:41
|
|
|
The Dave posted:I bought one of those attachments and I just can't seem to get a smooth finish with those mesh sanding sheets, I'm probably pressing down too hard. yeah I just use a "sanding sponge" and vac up the mess after I think the mesh ones just can't get the same as a fine grit sanding sponge. note i'm not a drywall expert, I did a decent job sanding down and repairing the PO's poo poo hack job attempt at mudding. I followed that one Canadian youtuber's advice and add a small bit of water to my premix and it seems to work a lot better than without a little water. I don't mix into the whole tub, I do a blob on my hawk, make a dimple and add water and fold/mix around a little. My biggest struggle was getting the tape not to bubble, I'll get there someday I'll be a drywall person. I do plan on paying someone to do the drywall when I take care of the paneling in the master bedroom and livingroom area, because honestly it'd take me weeks to get that all done right.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 14:40
|
|
|
I like to use mesh tape and something like No Coat for corners. But I’m a hobbyist who just takes forever to fix what PO stuff I find because I’m crazy about it being better than what I found.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 16:13
|
|
|
If I do a lovely job mudding but then I painted the wall, could i mudd over the paint to smooth it out a little? It sounds beyond hacky on paper but if I can get away with it I'd prefer to.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 16:39
|
|
|
The Dave posted:If I do a lovely job mudding but then I painted the wall, could i mudd over the paint to smooth it out a little? It sounds beyond hacky on paper but if I can get away with it I'd prefer to. No. Because it won't stick and will eventually start to fall off. Source: my bathroom where someone did that exact thing and the humidity from the shower got it started peeling and when it finally started to give way I about had a heart attack thinking I had some kind of water leak somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 17:06
|
|
|
The Dave posted:If I do a lovely job mudding but then I painted the wall, could i mudd over the paint to smooth it out a little? It sounds beyond hacky on paper but if I can get away with it I'd prefer to. Nope. Once there's paint in mud it's too late. You're back to sanding with 80+ grit to get down to something that resembles joint compound without paint in it. This is yet another one of those examples of "painting is all about prep work". Painting takes no time at all. The prep takes forever.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 17:50
|
|
|
Is that really true though? If you have a hole to repair in a painted wall you just slap a patch on and mud over it. I've never bothered to sand down the surrounding paint first, and the mud seems to stick just fine. Spackle goes over paint too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 12:48
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Is that really true though? If you have a hole to repair in a painted wall you just slap a patch on and mud over it. I've never bothered to sand down the surrounding paint first, and the mud seems to stick just fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 13:54
|
|
|
I really don’t understand how someone built a house where all the three way switches are actually “both switches must be in correct position to turn light on”. Apprentice’s first job? Or how the PO let this go on for 15 years. Only 2 or 3 more to go.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 14:36
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Is that really true though? If you have a hole to repair in a painted wall you just slap a patch on and mud over it. I've never bothered to sand down the surrounding paint first, and the mud seems to stick just fine. Slugworth posted:Agreed, mud sticks perfectly well to paint. The world would be a much more complicated place if it didn't. Again, it's all about prep work and SPECIFICS. Let's get a couple of definitions down: - Mud/joint compound - This is basically gypsum. It's what you use when putting up drywall. It shrinks. - Spackle - gypsum/acrylic, remains somewhat elastic so it doesn't shrink, includes a latex bonding compound. Yes, when you spackle holes it sticks. It's not only a different product, but you have something to "key" it into. The nail hole you're patching. The edges of the drywall patch you just put in. So it's probably gonna work. Even over glossy or dirty paint, it will probably stay there because it doesn't shrink. Now try that with mud and glossy or dirty paint. It DOES shrink and it will start pulling away in the thinner spots. Try that with nothing at all for it to key into (like how this all started - a repair because a painted wall wasn't finished flat enough) and it's VERY likely to shed. How hard is it really to get a sanding sponge and go over it? Don't want dust, being a warm bucket of water with you and wet sand it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 14:52
|
|
|
We have a 2000ish square foot Colonial house, pretty standard stuff. Built in 2004, coastal new england so no central air, baseboard heating, oil furnace. We put in a wood burning stove on the 1st floor and it does a great job of heating the 1st and second floors when we want to use it. The basement is a concrete tub kind of design, full matched size of the house and is split into a finished and unfinished half with a single set of stairs in the middle. The door to the basement is always open as I have my woodshop on the unfinished side and my office on the finished side. As expected there's about a -10F degree difference in the basement vs the 1st floor. What's the best way to circulate some of the heat from the 1st floor down to the basement? Is there a good way? This time of year its cold enough down there I'm just working with a tiny space heater by my desk, but wondering if there's a better way of moving the warmer air downstairs (or cold air up?).
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:40
|
|
|
That Works posted:We have a 2000ish square foot Colonial house, pretty standard stuff. Built in 2004, coastal new england so no central air, baseboard heating, oil furnace. We put in a wood burning stove on the 1st floor and it does a great job of heating the 1st and second floors when we want to use it. The basement is a concrete tub kind of design, full matched size of the house and is split into a finished and unfinished half with a single set of stairs in the middle. The door to the basement is always open as I have my woodshop on the unfinished side and my office on the finished side. As expected there's about a -10F degree difference in the basement vs the 1st floor. Your heater may or may not be sized for it, but the "best" way would be to run a couple of zoned loops in the finished and unfinished sides. Yes, that's going to cost. No, you shouldn't do it this year/during the heating season. But it's the real fix to this.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:49
|
|
|
Motronic posted:How hard is it really to get a sanding sponge and go over it? Don't want dust, being a warm bucket of water with you and wet sand it. Yea, but sanding is a problem for Present Me, who hates that poo poo and doesn't want to do it. Having the mud shed and fall off is a problem for Future Me, who is probably a dick and already hates me for what I did with the plumbing earlier, so may as well gently caress him with this project as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:52
|
|
Motronic posted:Your heater may or may not be sized for it, but the "best" way would be to run a couple of zoned loops in the finished and unfinished sides. Yes, that's going to cost. No, you shouldn't do it this year/during the heating season. But it's the real fix to this. Yeah you're right. I'll probably limp along with a space heater for a good while before we go that route though. Any other way to move warm air down one floor in the meantime? I tried pointing a box fan towards the stairwell to the basement on the 1st floor and let that run for an afternoon but there was no perceptible change. For example this morning it was 30F outside, we had the wood stove going all night and it was 73F on the 1st floor and about 61F in the basement.
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:56
|
|
|
That Works posted:Yeah you're right. I'll probably limp along with a space heater for a good while before we go that route though. No realistic way I can think of unless you can move very hot air directly down there. Which would mean a hole in the floor with a powered vent/fan very close to the wood stove, which is almost definitely not practical. This is a physics problem. Unless your delta T is high enough (really hot air from right around the heater vs desired temperature in the basement) you're just not going to get anywhere fast.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 16:03
|
|
|
Ugh. The only contractor who both has responded and is willing to even consider insulating the garage is quoting a little under eleven grand for flat-studded side walls (due to available space between the walls and the garage door rails) with rigid foam insulation, insulation board glued directly on ceiling, everything caulked and sealed "as possible," four outlets, two 220V baseboard heaters, and drywall. Seems steep, but it's going to be hard to tell if no one goddamned calls me back.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 16:23
|
|
|
Trying to choose between laminate and vinyl flooring for our soon-to-be finished basement. It's a newer house - built in '06 - and the basement has been pretty dry in the six years we've been here, so I'm not overly concerned about water coming up through the slab. Famous last words, I'm sure. In either case, I'll have a moisture barrier as part of the underlayment anyway. For the next ten years or so, it'll mostly be a kids' playroom. We have twin toddlers right now, and this will be their play space in the short term (balance bikes, climbing wall, saucer swing, generally getting energy out), and a hang out space as they get older. I'm thinking mainly of scratch resistance as the space evolves, furniture gets moved, riding toys fall over, various toys are chucked across the room, etc. We'll have some kind of padding down in places where falls are most expected for a little while — like the interlocking foam square type — and crash pads under the climbing wall for sure, but if there's much of a difference in the amount of give, the softer choice would be preferred. I'd guess that'd be vinyl, but can't imagine the difference is significant. I lean toward vinyl for the water resistance, but just wasn't sure about how it stands up to rough play.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 19:54
|
|
|
dakana posted:Trying to choose between laminate and vinyl flooring for our soon-to-be finished basement. It's a newer house - built in '06 - and the basement has been pretty dry in the six years we've been here, so I'm not overly concerned about water coming up through the slab. Famous last words, I'm sure. In either case, I'll have a moisture barrier as part of the underlayment anyway. Home Despot LifeProof is sort of a go to suggestion here. Also if you have concerns about water intrusion now is the time. It has a lifetime warranty for residential use, 5 years for commercial. Split the difference and I think you've got yourself a good floor.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 19:57
|
|
|
dakana posted:Trying to choose between laminate and vinyl flooring for our soon-to-be finished basement. It's a newer house - built in '06 - and the basement has been pretty dry in the six years we've been here, so I'm not overly concerned about water coming up through the slab. Famous last words, I'm sure. In either case, I'll have a moisture barrier as part of the underlayment anyway. You guys don't have the option of ventilated subflooring? I put that poo poo in the basement and it's amazing. Needed about 10cm of height though so if your ceilings are low-ish to begin with obviously not the best option.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 20:01
|
|
|
Clayton Bigsby posted:You guys don't have the option of ventilated subflooring? I put that poo poo in the basement and it's amazing. Needed about 10cm of height though so if your ceilings are low-ish to begin with obviously not the best option. Link me to / tell me more? Googled a bit and found this stuff which looks interesting. The ceilings aren't super high, and ducting makes it lower in some places, but we are leaving the joists exposed and just painting to maximize the headroom.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 20:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 09:36 |
|
|
dakana posted:Link me to / tell me more? Googled a bit and found this stuff which looks interesting. The ceilings aren't super high, and ducting makes it lower in some places, but we are leaving the joists exposed and just painting to maximize the headroom. That looks similar in function to what I can get over here. Should work fine as long as the concrete's reasonably level. Can't tell if it has the option for mechanical ventilation though, which I would want. The stuff I used here in Sweden is from the company Nivell (there's also Granab, Subfloor and a few other options that are basically identical though some use steel instead of wood for the framing). It looks like this:  Basically you have a bunch of 45x45mm studs with holes in them. In these holes there are large plastic screws. You attach those to the floor (drilling into concrete and driving down a heavy duty steel screw) and then you can adjust the height of the screw to level out the stud (which is handy when the concrete floor is a bit uneven). Then you have precut sheets of insulation with a foil backer that slot in between the studs, suspended from hangers. So you basically have an air gap (we have around 2cm), then the 45mm thick grid of studs and insulation, then you do whatever is suitable on top of that. We used this prerouted subflooring (22mm particle board):  The routing is to run subfloor heating (water based, so a 17mm diameter plastic hose basically). We also put heat spreaders in there (basically flashing) to make the heat more evenly distributed. On top of that a vapor barrier and then a floating hardwood floor. Along one side there's a long perforated pipe that's connected to an extractor fan. Along the other side there are two air inlets. The floor is then sealed against the wall along the edges. So you get room air pulled down and under the floor and out of the house, meaning that any moisture that might creep up in the concrete dries out quickly. If you have issues with radon and poo poo it will help as well. The entire mess I think added 11cm from the concrete. It made the basement feel like any other room, with a nice heated hardwood floor and fresh, healthy air. Took some effort and money but totally worth it. The stuff you posted seems similar to the Platon system we can get here:  Those don't add as much height, and can still be ventilated via a fan. You can throw laminate and stuff right on top of it I think, or possibly use some sort of foam insulation. Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Dec 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 20:32
|
|