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Did you ever get your backsplash sorted out? I'm curious as to how it turned out. E: gently caress that was a terrible snipe.
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Dec 2, 2020 14:02
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| # ? May 28, 2024 20:37 |
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Is it possible to repair subfloor from below without ripping up flooring? Looks like some rot around a toilet flange from a leaky toilet. I'm in the process of repairing that, but want to know what I can do about the subfloor while I have the toilet up. I have access from below.   The bathroom floor is vinyl plank, and based on the install elsewhere in the home, I suspect is just floating on the subfloor. This makes me think a repair is doable from below.
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Dec 2, 2020 17:33
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I'm failing to see what your plan is. Subfloor needs to be attached to the floor joists. Even if you manage to cut out the rotted part without damaging the floating vinyl planks (which would be tricky in the first place,) how are you going to get the replacement piece back in?
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Dec 2, 2020 17:37
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm failing to see what your plan is. Magic? I have no plan, just hopes and prayers. I was thinking of trying to shimmy two pieces in, and using some additional lumber to brace from below. And then to make the second piece fit, I'd cut it in half and slide it in... and then to get it's second piece to fit... wait... gently caress... It's just like, right there. It feels like I oughta be able to fix it from there.
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Dec 2, 2020 17:58
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AFewBricksShy posted:Did you ever get your backsplash sorted out? I'm curious as to how it turned out. Nope, still planning
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Dec 2, 2020 18:06
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Jenkl posted:Magic? It feels like it, but that's not how this works. The subfloor gets its strength from being attached to and spanning multiple joists. There is no way to do this from below, so as far as strength goes you may as well leave that rotten mess in place rather than go through the trouble of what I think you've suggested.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:11
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Cut the joists for easy access.  love it. (Don't do this)
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Dec 2, 2020 18:16
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Thanks for the reality check folks. I'll just aim to pull the floor up. I believe vinyl plank has a sort of tongue and groove snap system so it shouldn't be that bad to do. The area is small as well.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:54
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Jenkl posted:The bathroom floor is vinyl plank, and based on the install elsewhere in the home, I suspect is just floating on the subfloor. This makes me think a repair is doable from below. Sounds like you might be super lucky and won't have to demolish tile to fix it.  That being said, I don't know that I would bother for that small amount of damage assuming you have fixed and sealed the flange and put in a silicone ring instead of a wax one. Keep an eye on it.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:54
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Jenkl posted:I believe vinyl plank has a sort of tongue and groove snap system so it shouldn't be that bad to do. The area is small as well. If it's LVT or similar all you need to do is pull the (likely quarter round) trim on one side and start un-snapping pieces. Keep them in order and toss them right on back how they came out when you're done fixing the floor. The likely challenge is whether it was done "properly" or not. (meaning is it under or around the vanity)
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Dec 2, 2020 18:56
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H110Hawk posted:Sounds like you might be super lucky and won't have to demolish tile to fix it. I have said ring, but paused before fixing because a) I discovered the water shut off valve itself isn't working so I had to get a replacement for it and b) some masons doing work needed my water over the last couple days so I couldn't shut it off. In the mean time, I figured since I'd be pulling up the toilet to access, I might as well figure that piece out.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:57
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Motronic posted:If it's LVT or similar all you need to do is pull the (likely quarter round) trim on one side and start un-snapping pieces. Keep them in order and toss them right on back how they came out when you're done fixing the floor. Take a roll of masking tape and mark off numbers on it, stick the numbers to the planks in situ, then take a picture of it. Now you have labeled planks in case you screw up/knock over a stack. Or have a curious child who will run off with several pieces of it mid job. Or just sharpie it onto the bottom as you pull them up.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:00
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Motronic posted:If it's LVT or similar all you need to do is pull the (likely quarter round) trim on one side and start un-snapping pieces. Keep them in order and toss them right on back how they came out when you're done fixing the floor. It's under the vanity 
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Dec 2, 2020 19:03
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Jenkl posted:It's under the vanity Congratulations, it was properly done. Cut any caulk, turn off the water at what are hopefully quarter turn valves and pull the vanity. I like to make holes int he back of vanities that are large enough to accommodate the valves for this very reason. Hopefully whoever installed yours did too. If not, you have an excuse to buy one of the greatest multitasking tools ever: an oscillating tool.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:09
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The Slack Lagoon posted:You can see the water coming off the supply on the top, and going into the washer on the bottom. It's a compact stackable set, so there's a lot going on back there, but I think the main limiter to moving the machine back is the supply line.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:18
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Has anyone ever worked with electronic access doors? Our facility is wanting to change our electronic access doors to allow a manual bypass (probably just a key would be nice) to be able to use our doors when electricity/internet is lost. Another city's facility got hacked and they reported that the hackers were able to mess with the doors. Anyone who is smart on this and can make recommendations would be appreciated.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:19
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Already have one! Thats how I planned to cut the structural defect into my bathroom floor  .My mental block now is that we intend to redo this bathroom in the relatively near future. Having pulled the toilet, floor, and vanity, it's hard to put it all back temporarily knowing you're just gonna do it all again. Still, I'm on an anti-rot crusade right now. I think that alone justifies the work. Especially since I don't have a concrete plan for when the re-do will happen.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:20
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spacetoaster posted:Has anyone ever worked with electronic access doors? Our facility is wanting to change our electronic access doors to allow a manual bypass (probably just a key would be nice) to be able to use our doors when electricity/internet is lost. Another city's facility got hacked and they reported that the hackers were able to mess with the doors. Yeah disconnect whatever lovely software you're using from your general corporate network. Definitely get it off the internet. As for a manual override it depends on what exactly you used for the lock. I would just call a locksmith, preferably whomever installed your system.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:22
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah disconnect whatever lovely software you're using from your general corporate network. Definitely get it off the internet. A locksmith is a good idea. Considering the size of our facility it's a frankenstein mix of things installed at various points over the years so finding anyone who did an install will be difficult.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:36
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah disconnect whatever lovely software you're using from your general corporate network. Definitely get it off the internet. Seriously. Most of the door systems I've dealt with (Schlage, Keri, etc) are still typically still on Windows 98 and poo poo. Of course they're getting hacked. There are not recommendations for systems - they're all poo poo. You need to find the right local installer who can properly install what they use to fit your needs and be there to service it whenever required because it will need it. Because did I mentioned they're all poo poo?
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Dec 2, 2020 19:36
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Jenkl posted:Already have one! Thats how I planned to cut the structural defect into my bathroom floor
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Dec 2, 2020 19:39
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Slugworth posted:I would not replace that right now if you're planning on redoing the bathroom in the sometime soon future. Unless it's noticeably soft, or actively spreading, it's pretty minor damage. Honestly, if you weren't redoing the bathroom, I'd probably not ever bother replacing it. There's a certain wet smell in the bathroom I want to get rid of. I assume from the leak but might be something else going on. If I wasn't planning on remodelling it, I'd still be looking to tear the drat room open just for that.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:47
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Jenkl posted:There's a certain wet smell in the bathroom I want to get rid of. I assume from the leak but might be something else going on. If I wasn't planning on remodelling it, I'd still be looking to tear the drat room open just for that. It's unlikely to be a bit of wet subfloor around your toilet that is covered in a layer of flooring. Especially not if you've fixed the toilet leak and allowed that floor to dry out (stick a box fan in the basement pointed at it for a week or so). I bet if you poke in and around your shower surround and other wet areas with a screwdrivers something terrible is going to happen. So don't do that until you're ready to do a full to the studs gut and remodel. If you've got tiel as your surround I have VERY frequently seen failed/cracked grout, especially in the corners (where it should be caulk) or failed caulk between the tub and surround that have been wicking water into the......likely sheetrock behind it for years. The entire wall and wall cavity are just a nasty moldy mess. You can barely tell until you get into it and then all of a sudden it's a goddamn disaster.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:56
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Motronic posted:It's unlikely to be a bit of wet subfloor around your toilet that is covered in a layer of flooring. Especially not if you've fixed the toilet leak and allowed that floor to dry out (stick a box fan in the basement pointed at it for a week or so). I've had a similar thought. The toilet leak is not yet fixed so I'm still hoping it's just that, combined with nothing being particularly well sealed. Of course the fact that I don't smell it when I'm underneath and can see the rot kind of kills that idea... It's a little powder room. Just the toilet and vanity/sink. No bathroom above it or anything either. So the toilet is my main thought, but perhaps something is lurking behind the vanity. I would not be surprised in the slightest based on everything else I've found.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:00
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Jenkl posted:I've had a similar thought. The toilet leak is not yet fixed so I'm still hoping it's just that, combined with nothing being particularly well sealed. Of course the fact that I don't smell it when I'm underneath and can see the rot kind of kills that idea... If the toilet's not fixed start right there and let the subfloor dry out.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:03
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OK! That's my plan. I have a bad habit of letting scope creep anyways.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:05
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Jenkl posted:OK! That's my plan. This is literally a 30 minute job. Go buy one of these:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Better-Than-Wax-Universal-Wax-Free-Toilet-Seal-7530P24/205762183 and a package of this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Liquilock-6-oz-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-Gel-31419/202882917 Make sure you have disposable gloves, a couple of towels you're willing to throw away and a plastic scraper you're willing to throw away to clean up the old wax seal.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:07
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spacetoaster posted:Has anyone ever worked with electronic access doors? Our facility is wanting to change our electronic access doors to allow a manual bypass (probably just a key would be nice) to be able to use our doors when electricity/internet is lost. Another city's facility got hacked and they reported that the hackers were able to mess with the doors. How big is this facility/budget? Do you have a company monitoring the fire alarm or security stuff? My commercial building clients in DC have all used either Kastle or Datawatch for electronic door locks (and security & fire alarm monitoring) and they will configure them however you want.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:11
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spacetoaster posted:A locksmith is a good idea. Considering the size of our facility it's a frankenstein mix of things installed at various points over the years so finding anyone who did an install will be difficult. This reminded me of a story! Last building I worked in had your usual badge based access control. We had ~2 floors of the building and the rest of it was a bank, headed by a certain now treasury secretary with a very punchable face. During integration we setup the usual access controls on our doors, and were able to use the same badges to work the exterior building doors, security gates, and elevators so long as we connected to "the other server." This was very confusing to learn about until someone basically pulled me aside and said  if you want this to be easy just don't bring it up.Yeah we had access to a rando shared account on the banks access control system. I believe it was running Windows XP. I think it had been this way since the building said "IndyMac" on the front.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:23
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Motronic posted:This is literally a 30 minute job. Go buy one of these:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Better-Than-Wax-Universal-Wax-Free-Toilet-Seal-7530P24/205762183 and a package of this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Liquilock-6-oz-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-Gel-31419/202882917 As an amateur, this is correct. Replacing the toilets was like an, "oh poo poo we're done now?" kinda jobs.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:25
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Motronic posted:This is literally a 30 minute job. Go buy one of these:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Better-Than-Wax-Universal-Wax-Free-Toilet-Seal-7530P24/205762183 and a package of this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Liquilock-6-oz-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-Gel-31419/202882917 Yep yep, I have these things. This fix wasn't already done cause my shut off is broken. But I got the parts I need for that, too. I was just saying, I tend to let these things grow instead. I'm Hal in that clip we all know.
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Dec 2, 2020 21:09
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H110Hawk posted:This reminded me of a story! Last building I worked in had your usual badge based access control. We had ~2 floors of the building and the rest of it was a bank, headed by a certain now treasury secretary with a very punchable face. During integration we setup the usual access controls on our doors, and were able to use the same badges to work the exterior building doors, security gates, and elevators so long as we connected to "the other server." This was very confusing to learn about until someone basically pulled me aside and said lol While interrogating a person about this door system today I found out that the reason it's all connected to the internet is because when Spacetoaster smashes his access card against the door thing it sends the data to a central database at another location asking if it's ok for the door to open for me. Then the other location sends back a signal telling it yeah, or nope.
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Dec 2, 2020 21:59
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spacetoaster posted:lol Yikes. Everywhere I've worked makes that server local to the building, so access is controlled by the building alone (or shared if buildings are adjacent and have a hard connection between them). This guards against both external attacks and against an internet outage preventing access. The only thing you have to worry about then is a power outage. Makes it annoying when you travel between sites and they haven't set up access, but it's a million times more secure/usable. edit: though it does make it a process to deactivate badges across sites when a person is fired or quits, so 
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Dec 2, 2020 22:09
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spacetoaster posted:lol I'm not aware of any door systems like that. While it may be sending the logs over immediately, almost all door systems have a controller per door or at least per site that manages this. The lovely software programs that thing so that you aren't reliant on some lovely computer running even shittier software to open a door.
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Dec 2, 2020 22:10
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Motronic posted:I'm not aware of any door systems like that. While it may be sending the logs over immediately, almost all door systems have a controller per door or at least per site that manages this. The lovely software programs that thing so that you aren't reliant on some lovely computer running even shittier software to open a door. Look in your heart, you know there is an option for this to be the setup.
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Dec 2, 2020 22:14
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H110Hawk posted:Look in your heart, you know there is an option for this to be the setup. No no no no no nonono no no no! (poo poo, there is it)
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Dec 2, 2020 22:16
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Motronic posted:I'm not aware of any door systems like that. While it may be sending the logs over immediately, almost all door systems have a controller per door or at least per site that manages this. The lovely software programs that thing so that you aren't reliant on some lovely computer running even shittier software to open a door. Maybe. But they think somehow a person, probably in another country was able to tell the doors not to open anymore for anyone.
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Dec 2, 2020 22:18
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spacetoaster posted:Maybe. But they think somehow a person, probably in another country was able to tell the doors not to open anymore for anyone. Generally when you hit "save" it codes the door controller with the list of ID's (and other parameters) who are allowed to open which doors. Think of it like "door hooked to relay 5 has ID's 100,200,101,203,...,399 allowed to open between 0900 and 1700 m,t,w,t,f" etc.
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Dec 2, 2020 22:25
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spacetoaster posted:Maybe. But they think somehow a person, probably in another country was able to tell the doors not to open anymore for anyone. Maybe you're misunderstanding - the software that controls this can be in one and only one spot. You can make the on-site controllers accessible to this thing. But the way I've seen them all work is that you make the change in the software and you still have to tell it to UPDATE THE CONTROLLERS. This can and often is as barbaric as a dialup modem at the remote site(s), but sometimes is done over a company WAN connection or just YOLO'd over the internet.
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Dec 2, 2020 22:27
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| # ? May 28, 2024 20:37 |
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When doing drywall mudding, is the consistency of the mud the same for seams as it is for inside corners? Or should it be different?
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Dec 2, 2020 23:16
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