|
Motronic posted:or just YOLO'd over the internet. Stealing this phrase.
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2020 23:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 23:34 |
|
|
Christoph posted:When doing drywall mudding, is the consistency of the mud the same for seams as it is for inside corners? Or should it be different? The only difference in my coats are the finish coat. I use the same mud for everything other than that, all at the same consistency. I switch to something lighter for finishing and I like it a bit thinner. Certainly not the only way to do it, but that's how I learned for legit drywall guys.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:03
|
|
|
Toilet up. So PO used a pile of chips of shims - yes, a pile of chips of shims not just shims - to... attempt...? to level the toilet? Neither bolt was in the flange right. Flange is sitting well below the top of the flooring. Looks like screws holding the flange down have no purchase, I think stripped or rot? It's not really secure to floor. So I think I need flange extension(s), and new screws. If it is the wood, do I have any options for securing the flange to the damaged wood? New shut off valve is workin nice! Jenkl fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Dec 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:03
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:So I think I need flange extension(s), and new screws. If it is the wood, do I have any options for securing the flange to the damaged wood? Are you sure the ring you got doesn't have that already (if you got a synthetic one)? If you can't get it into the existing floor well enough due to rot use longer screws and put a piece of whatever you've got under there to grab the screw. 1x or 2x scraps would work just fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:05
|
|
|
drat mo thanks this better than wax thing does have a spacer included. I'll need to double check it's deep enough. And I do have some scraps, plus longer screws. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:07
|
|
|
This got buried at the bottom of a page. I'm still a bit stuck here. If anyone has any advice, it would be much appreciatedHyperlynx posted:I need to replace my window-winder (and, yes, clean my window)
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 04:02
|
|
|
Lacking a pickup truck (I only have a 1998 Toyota Camry), is the safest way to get a 16 foot piece 2x6 from Lowes / Home Depot to get it delivered?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 04:05
|
|
|
Jose Cuervo posted:Lacking a pickup truck (I only have a 1998 Toyota Camry), is the safest way to get a 16 foot piece 2x6 from Lowes / Home Depot to get it delivered? You could rent a truck or a van from Lowes/home depot, depending on if that's cheaper than delivery. Do you have a friend with a truck?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 05:43
|
|
|
A roof, furniture pads, rope, and a flag. Tie the front and back to the bumpers, lash the rear doors shut. Put a red flag on the tail end, for safety.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 05:46
|
|
|
16 feet? A bungee cord hooked from the rear seat grab handles oughta do it!
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 06:43
|
|
|
Silly question but do you need the full 16' length? They'll do two cuts at the store for free if, say, you really just need two 6' lengths
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 07:02
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:A roof, furniture pads, rope, and a flag. Tie the front and back to the bumpers, lash the rear doors shut. Put a red flag on the tail end, for safety. I was thinking this is what I would do, but I didn't know if groupthink here would approve.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:04
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:I was thinking this is what I would do, but I didn't know if groupthink here would approve. As long as its secured on all 3-planes, and you've flagged the stickie-outie bits, AND you remember to account for the stickie-outie bits as you work your way home, you should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:05
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:I was thinking this is what I would do, but I didn't know if groupthink here would approve. For 1 board on random occasions? Eh. Stay off the freeways, take it slow, leave plenty of following distance. Think of it as car jousting/javelin throw. If you stop too hard or turn too fast you're going to have a 16' 2x6 projectile. It should take you about twice as long to get home as it did to get to the store. Or it should at least feel that way.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 16:00
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:For 1 board on random occasions? Eh. Stay off the freeways, take it slow, leave plenty of following distance. Think of it as car jousting/javelin throw. If you stop too hard or turn too fast you're going to have a 16' 2x6 projectile. Yeah, a toyota camry is 16' long, for reference, so if you're driving something comparable the board won't really extend past your bumpers by much at all. Just take it easy and make sure it's secured as folks have already said.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 16:04
|
|
|
Jose Cuervo posted:Lacking a pickup truck (I only have a 1998 Toyota Camry), is the safest way to get a 16 foot piece 2x6 from Lowes / Home Depot to get it delivered?  Would suck getting one board delivered--$10 for the lumber and $60 for delivery. Tying to front and back bumper works--just make sure it can't bounce up and down and you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
Don't the rear seats fold down? I would think having it hang out the rear end end 4-6' is probably better than trying to strap it to the roof. edit: of course, I would have the store rough cut it down to pieces first. I can't imagine OP needs the entire 16' piece intact, but I dunno. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 17:23
|
|
|
Thanks for all of the ideas. I do want the 16 foot board as a single piece (although I can cut it down closer to the final 14ft length that I need it in the parking lot with a hand saw). I am going to try out the idea of strapping it down tight to the roof and taking the back roads with slow speed limits.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 03:27
|
|
|
not sure if this is a quick question or not so I made it its own thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3950179
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 07:01
|
|
|
Y’all have any recommendations for protecting concrete from oil stains? Just got a shiny new driveway poured (haven’t even parked a car on it yet because I’ve been waiting for it to cure), and I’m overdue for an oil change. Before I didn’t mind the occasional driblet in gravel, but seeing as it’s all new like I’m not keen on the idea of trying to powerwash out errant stains. Really it’s just new owner syndrome and just trying to baby the thing until it gets the first scratch
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 07:03
|
|
|
I have a chunk of old carpet in my shed that I throw down under my cars when I'm working on them. It's mostly for comfort and to keep bolts and sockets from bouncing when they inevitably get dropped, but it's also pretty good at picking up any dribbles during the process.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 07:53
|
|
|
For times when I know I’m going to be working with it, I just throw cardboard boxes from the recycling under the pan and plug.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 16:36
|
|
|
Hed posted:For times when I know I’m going to be working with it, I just throw cardboard boxes from the recycling under the pan and plug. yep I have cardboard for under the car.. and use it under my genny when running the leaky magnetic oil plug
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 22:18
|
|
|
My new garage has only two outlets: the ceiling outlet for the door opener, and a NEMA 14-50R outlet on the back wall. Now, I have yet to find my tester (still boxed up) and verify that it is actually powered, but assuming it is indeed electrified: is there any safe and code-compliant way I can break that out into regular 110V outlets?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 00:32
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:My new garage has only two outlets: the ceiling outlet for the door opener, and a NEMA 14-50R outlet on the back wall. Now, I have yet to find my tester (still boxed up) and verify that it is actually powered, but assuming it is indeed electrified: is there any safe and code-compliant way I can break that out into regular 110V outlets? You lose your car charger outlet doing this, but swapping the breaker to a 20A and finding nuts that go from whatever is in that box to #12 you could wire a duplex outlet into it with the tab broken out. Or replace it with the worlds smallest load center and add more downstream outlets.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 00:50
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:You lose your car charger outlet doing this, but swapping the breaker to a 20A and finding nuts that go from whatever is in that box to #12 you could wire a duplex outlet into it with the tab broken out. Or replace it with the worlds smallest load center and add more downstream outlets. It's probably in a double gang box, so it'd be easy to split it into two receptacles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 01:38
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:It's probably in a double gang box, so it'd be easy to split it into two receptacles. I was mostly giving the absurd option. I also don't know the fill rules on a double gang box that's got like three #6 in there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 02:53
|
|
|
I have a gas fireplace in a just out of warranty (of course) new home. We're attempting to turn it on for this second winter and it's not firing up. It doesn't have a pilot light, instead it's electric ignition. We have gas for our stovetop, water heater and furnace and that all works so I don't think it's a gas issue but rather an ignition issue. When we press the switch on the wall the little ignition spark doesn't do anything. Do ya'll have any troubleshooting advice? I have a non-contact tester as well as a multimeter but don't have any idea where I'd use them here. It's a Napoleon Ascent 36 - Imgur Album Semi-related, once I get this working again, is there an approved method to seal off the hole where the gas line comes in? It lets a small bit of cold air into our house from the crawlspace which ideally I'd like to insulate that spot but I can imagine a lot of products not being suitable for the heat of the fire? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 03:03
|
|
|
There are high-temperature silicone caulks for sealing. For insulating, rockwool would work I believe. My first troubleshooting question would be, does it have power at all?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 04:26
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:There are high-temperature silicone caulks for sealing. I'll check into those products. Thanks. My wife just hit the switch and it worked, the fire is on. Sooooo seems like it's a sometimes fault/issue which is I'm sure harder to troubleshoot just like anything else.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 05:17
|
|
|
I had a similar gas fireplace problem. The wall switch itself went bad. The low current leads to poor contact cleaning in the switch and they can start making intermittent contact relatively quickly. You can verify this by jumping the terminals directly on the fireplace, or pulling the switch and jumping it out to test.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 05:32
|
|
|
Fastener sizing question. I'm planning to mount a network/server rack in the basement to a 2.5" thick wood "wall" (the outside of a stairway). The rack itself weighs 40lbs and can hold up to 200lbs so let's say 250lbs of weight max. Of course my naïve first instinct is to go for broke since this will house thousands of $ worth of crap, so I started a home depot cart with 3/4" plywood as a mounting surface and four 3/8" lag bolts to secure the rack. But then I realized I have some 1/4" ply and 1/4" bolts lying around, which could save me money/time/COVID exposure/unnecessarily huge holes, etc. Four 3/8" bolts (2-2.5" long) to hold up 250lbs in this config is way way over-spec'ing, right? 1/4" is totally sufficient? Please comfort or correct me!  
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 19:43
|
|
|
admiraldennis posted:Fastener sizing question. https://www.fastenal.com/en/84/load-calculator The shear strength of your average hardware store 1/4" lag bolt is well above what you need, and I assume you're using 4 of them. Then there's the whole part where if the bolts are tight most of the shear load is being take up by the interface of the rack to the wall. Why the plywood? You should be able to mount it to studs or throw in an extra stud or a piece between studs if the spacing isn't working out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 19:53
|
|
|
TacoHavoc posted:I had a similar gas fireplace problem. The wall switch itself went bad. The low current leads to poor contact cleaning in the switch and they can start making intermittent contact relatively quickly. You can verify this by jumping the terminals directly on the fireplace, or pulling the switch and jumping it out to test. If the wall switch is bad is there a recommended replacement brand? I'll see about checking this if/when it happens again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 19:59
|
|
|
Motronic posted:https://www.fastenal.com/en/84/load-calculator Thanks - that's a great link, and also great to know that's the right number to be looking at. I think the plywood idea is just more of the overbuilding instinct. I'm happy to get this done with less materials if it makes no difference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 20:02
|
|
|
admiraldennis posted:Thanks - that's a great link, and also great to know that's the right number to be looking at. If you can hit studs on each side of the rack I don't see what the plywood gets you. It's probably a net negative. Yes, I know you've seen telecom panels in machine/utility rooms with a sheet of plywood on the wall. That's because we're mounting all kinds of non-standard sized things that mostly aren't wide enough to fit across studs, and the plywood can also be used for cable management.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 20:06
|
|
|
I'm running an extension cord for my xmas lights out through a window, so it is going to stay cracked for the duration of the holidays. What can I put in the crack to keep bugs out (and the weather a little bit, but this isn't a big deal because I live in central texas)? I think any old uv-proof foam would do but my searching has lead to products that cost about ten times what I'm willing to pay for a gap-filler. I'd sooner put some old t-shirts in the hole than pay jeff bezos 20 dollars for some disposable foam. Edit: Nevermind. Adding the expensive version to my cart led me to the cheap solution in a sponsored ad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UTRN5W/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJ2E053E4MKC5 Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Dec 5, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 22:53
|
|
|
Does anyone here know much about what drives the recommended slopes for wheelchair ramps? My dad's asked me to build a ramp in their back yard, in anticipation of when he won't be able to walk any more. I'm seeing a recommended slope no greater than 1:12, and we have a 13" vertical distance to cover. If I went straight out from the back yard door 13', then that'd drop him in the middle of the lawn, and if I stuck a 90 degree turn in then the construction gets a lot more complicated, plus of course the ramp takes up more space. It'd be a lot easier if I could go out only 8'; that gives enough room at the base of the ramp for maneuvering, but means that the slope is about 60% greater than recommended. Does that put it squarely into "absolutely not" territory, or is this the kind of thing where the recommended design is accessible to people with extremely minimal capabilities and most people can handle a greater slope?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 23:10
|
|
|
I hesitate to be the first to respond, because IANAGC, but you're probably going to have to pull a permit to install a ramp. Code will align with the ADA, where the 1:12 slope requirement is laid out. In practical advice, my grandfather's powered wheelchair would climb a 2:12 slope with ease, but it would be pretty drat hard to climb in a regular wheelchair. Maybe a landing outside the back door with a 90, then a 7' descent along the side of the house, another landing with a 180, then a final 7' descent to ground level? A little more material cost, but more compact, and beats ADA requirements. Plus you could hang stairs off one of the sides of the top landing for everyone else. e. What if he goes into a walker before he goes down into a wheelchair? I'd definitely want to be at 1:12 or better in that case. Steep slopes are hell to navigate with a walker. rndmnmbr fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Dec 5, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 23:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 23:34 |
|
|
I'm not an expert ramp builder, but I built a little ramp to cover a single step for my father when he was in a wheelchair, and followed the same logic as you. It was a disaster. You can't get away with cheating, the ramp has to be 1:12, it's too hard to propel a wheelchair up anything steeper. E:like literally the same dimensions with the same considerations, I had to rebuild it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 23:36
|
|