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Motronic posted:Will that heat up all of the metal he's touching? I can’t imagine it would heat anything more than ambient temperature unless you have it butted up right next to and pointed at the metal? All it’s doing is heating up the ambient air. For reference, this is what I’m talking about They’re powered with the little green propane canisters. Nearly 100% efficient just means near complete combustion. Not something I’d use in a tightly insulated space or for continuous use, but great for heating up a garage and temporary activity within.
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Dec 7, 2020 00:02
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So yeah, that doesn't solve the problem he came here to solve. The idea of constant heat was so that this weights weren't going to give him frostbite.
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Dec 7, 2020 02:50
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Just cut out the middleman and resistance heat the weights themselves
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Dec 7, 2020 03:27
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Fallom posted:Just cut out the middleman and resistance heat the weights themselves At least someone here is bringing in new and good ideas.
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Dec 7, 2020 03:47
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Working out in a freezing garage is not a new issue. This is a very effective and inexpensive solution: Electric Charcoal Starter
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Dec 7, 2020 07:57
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Motronic posted:So yeah, that doesn't solve the problem he came here to solve. The idea of constant heat was so that this weights weren't going to give him frostbite. So, gloves then? Easy peasy, problem solved. Gloves + a space heater HycoCam posted:Working out in a freezing garage is not a new issue. This is a very effective and inexpensive solution: Electric Charcoal Starter  
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 07:59
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When we used them--two was pro. And you move them. The heaters either heated the bar, the weights, or hung up and unplugged. Thinking about it more--something like: Magnetic block heater might be less likely to start an actual fire. 
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Dec 7, 2020 08:22
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Counterpoint, can't get frostbite if your gym is on fire.
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Dec 7, 2020 08:51
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My gym is in an industrial basement and has more or less no concept of insulation (the hallway leads to a loading dock) and I’m not even sure where the heat source is outside of some open flame heaters in the other walkway. In the winter I’d more or less always go in heavy sweats and insulated hoodie, and about 10 minutes in to warmup I’d be sweating and clawing to remove layers. Added bonus the cold can be a cheap preworkout!
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Dec 7, 2020 11:21
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Finished up my door this weekend, at least the exterior-facing side. Some of the detailed trim bits look, well, like poo poo if you look up close. As it turns out I didn't do as good of a sanding job as I had thought, but I easily put 12 hours of prep work into the drat thing so gently caress it, it's done. Also want to pass along this tip I learned yesterday after I removed my painters tape and found the glass bead trim still had the tiniest of areas that needed paint where they met the glass. I didn't have any of that fancy brush on gel coat crap so I turned to the internet which told me to do this: https://www.janssenglass.com/blog/3-genius-hacks-for-painting-around-windows/ quote:Use Paper Strips Worked perfectly. *record scratch sound* Took photos for this post and was about to upload them to imgur when I noticed that the paint is now bubbling????? god dammitttttttttttttttttttttt (you'll have to zoom but now there is a horizontal line of air bubbles on the flat section between the two sets of panels that was not there yesterday)  
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Dec 7, 2020 15:26
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The Dave posted:My gym is in an industrial basement and has more or less no concept of insulation (the hallway leads to a loading dock) and I’m not even sure where the heat source is outside of some open flame heaters in the other walkway. Cold air is probably nowhere near as big an issue as cold gear. Gripping a freezing olympic bar is not pleasant.
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Dec 7, 2020 16:16
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Yes, we do Oly lifting, rather wear grips for a set or two than pay $10k though.
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Dec 7, 2020 16:45
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OSU_Matthew posted:So, gloves then? Seriously man, you're just repeating what happened a week ago. Scroll up. BonerGhost posted:Counterpoint, can't get frostbite if your gym is on fire. Finally, some content.
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Dec 7, 2020 17:17
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What do I need to do to disconnect this pipe joint so I can get an auger down there? There are no grips or ridges on the fitting. The vertical pipe is standing pipe for a washing machine, so connects to nothing.
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Dec 7, 2020 19:20
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Looks like a solvent weld joint? So sawzall.
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Dec 7, 2020 19:37
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the previous owner decided that the metal channels for all the laminate floor transitions were optional and now i have a mess of dry glue to clean up. it's very cool. related: should i install the new transition metal channels to my concrete subfloor via countersunk tapcons or can i just run a bead of adhesive along the bottom of the channel? Edit: i've also seen a technique where you drill a hole, fill that hole with toothpicks/wooden peg, and drive standard screws into that? Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 19:48
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Those options or you can drill a hole in the concrete and use plastic anchors. I think a lot of contractors just use adhesive, so that too.
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Dec 7, 2020 20:28
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alright cool. just making sure i wasnt gonna gently caress up something irrepairably. in the meanwhile: quote:"Hey, don't walk where i patched the gaps in the laminate" 
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Dec 7, 2020 22:40
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That picture is unsettling, my brain keeps looking for the plastic forks and smeared birthday cake.
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Dec 8, 2020 02:07
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As part of my project to paint the garage I want to install some 4” vinyl base around the perimeter once that is done. Unfortunately with the slope of the floor there is a ultimately a 3”+ gap with about a 1” depth from the drywall surface to the base cinder block towards the garage door. Any ideas on a material I could use to fill the depth that can be easily shaped or should I just drop the idea? It needs to be able to handle water without absorbing it since we have snow melt from the cars occasionally. 
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Dec 8, 2020 03:19
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edit: nm, i'll ask a mod to remove attachment
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Dec 8, 2020 |
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Dec 8, 2020 03:32
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Motronic posted:Seriously man, you're just repeating what happened a week ago. Scroll up. Yeah, I couldn’t remember since it keeps coming back every few posts with increasingly expensive and rube goldberg solutions culminating in “just build another structure” Taking a step back to keep the larger picture in context isn’t always a bad idea, especially since someone posted that magnetic warmer which seems like an excellent idea 
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Dec 8, 2020 04:48
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The real solution is to go back in time and not buy a house from 1925. I love this house, and want to burn it all down, in equal measure.
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Dec 8, 2020 08:02
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devmd01 posted:As part of my project to paint the garage I want to install some 4” vinyl base around the perimeter once that is done. Unfortunately with the slope of the floor there is a ultimately a 3”+ gap with about a 1” depth from the drywall surface to the base cinder block towards the garage door. If I'm understanding things right here, could you get the 1" thick sheets of rigid foam insulation and cut them in strips to fit between drywall and floor?
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Dec 8, 2020 08:34
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Mortar might work too?
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Dec 8, 2020 08:47
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Pvc trim should work. Won't absorb water or mold
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Dec 8, 2020 12:53
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After I asked about it the contractor wants $1500 additional for permits and scheduling inspections, so undoubtedly this is "he'll gently caress off or he'll substantially overpay me" bid. Come on, man.
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Dec 8, 2020 13:17
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devmd01 posted:As part of my project to paint the garage I want to install some 4” vinyl base around the perimeter once that is done. Unfortunately with the slope of the floor there is a ultimately a 3”+ gap with about a 1” depth from the drywall surface to the base cinder block towards the garage door. that kinda looks like an intentionally-put-there drainage system?
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Dec 8, 2020 14:05
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Yeah I actually wish my basement had that back when it would flood.
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Dec 8, 2020 14:17
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tetrapyloctomy posted:The real solution is to go back in time and not buy a house from 1925. I love this house, and want to burn it all down, in equal measure. The Home Zone: I love this house, and want to burn it all down, in equal measure.
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Dec 8, 2020 15:11
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tetrapyloctomy posted:The real solution is to go back in time and not buy a house from 1925. I love this house, and want to burn it all down, in equal measure. unbelievably same
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Dec 8, 2020 15:52
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pmchem posted:that kinda looks like an intentionally-put-there drainage system? I don’t think so, probably just a normal gap between the established wall base and the poured concrete floor. I like the foam insulation idea, that should be cheap and easy. I’ll give it a 1/4-1/2” gap to the floor to be on the safe side so water doesn’t even have a chance to touch it. PVC trim would definitely work, but I was planning on going with the super basic vinyl stuff. Thanks for the ideas all!
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Dec 8, 2020 16:42
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The Wonder Weapon posted:unbelievably same My house ownership has been '40s- > '60s -> '80s (current). That alone means I have standard drywall (not plaster like the first two) and standard 2x4 wall spacing which makes almost every home improvement project SO much easier since basically everyones online instructions implies you have drywall and 2x4's.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:47
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tetrapyloctomy posted:The real solution is to go back in time and not buy a house from 1925. I love this house, and want to burn it all down, in equal measure.  
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Dec 8, 2020 19:27
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First off, I finally got around to cutting the plywood sheet (and OSB) to make the shelf for my Matthias-Wandel-cantilever-shelves for my shed: Second, I'm looking for opinions on improving spice cabinet organization, since I'm getting really frustrated with how disorganized my spice cabinet is. It's a 12" wide by 40" tall wall cabinet I have to the left of my stove and with all of the bottles randomly dispersed over two of the shelves it's a pain in the rear end to find any of the spices that I don't use very often. I found this, but $120 is way more than I want to spend, but the idea is neat, and probably could be accomplished with some basic drawer slides and plywood. The plexiglass would be more of a pain without a CNC or laser cutter, though. I would also need more than one of these, I think. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4N0SIC/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_4368549507  Alternatively, I could buy or make some sort of stair stepped spice rack that fits in the cabinet, like so: https://fixthisbuildthat.com/diy-spice-rack-free-plans/ 
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Dec 9, 2020 03:14
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MetaJew posted:Alternatively, I could buy or make some sort of stair stepped spice rack that fits in the cabinet, like so: I built almost exactly that awhile back! We don’t use them anymore though. Right now we have a mismatch of spice drawer organizers like this: https://www.target.com/p/lipper-3-tier-tilt-down-spice-drawer/-/A-16637796 Much higher density of spice storage, and works for everything from McCormick to Penzey’s to Trader Joes’ square bottles
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Dec 9, 2020 06:00
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZDZLQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_XRf0FbJR0NSJ9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I bought the cheaper, non-adjustable version of this a couple years ago on a goon rec and have been really happy with it. Mine has the same capacity as this new one, which holds more than the nicer looking lipper one. You can stack those little short mccormick and tones jars on their sides and get 3 per space, too.
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Dec 9, 2020 06:07
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I have these and they're great. Theyre super simple to install, anf they hold a fair bit of weight (e.g., if you get the wider single-level ones they'll hold an Oxo full of sugar, a bag of flour, and a few more things.
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Dec 9, 2020 12:44
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Let's talk laminate vs hardwood. I want to have all the laminate redone because PO did a lovely job and used cheap materials. Looking at this install is putting me off laminate, but I feel like it might be the better option if I go look at some and have it professionally done?
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Dec 9, 2020 16:23
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Deviant posted:Let's talk laminate vs hardwood. I want to have all the laminate redone because PO did a lovely job and used cheap materials. There are a lot of low-end laminate and engineered hardwood flooring materials out there. A 'good' one will run as much as low-cost hardwood (2" wide white oak, red oak, maple) including finishing. So if you want a 'good' laminate or engineered floor, it's less of a cost question and more of an appearance question. Like, if you want a dark colored wide board looking floor, you'll find substantially less expensive options in the engineered wood family as compared to a real wood floor, but the engineered floor will still cost more than a low-cost hardwood. The above advice does not apply to flooring installed on a concrete slab.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:59
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