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Gounads posted:Looking for a project to sell next year? Do you use a tenon cutter?
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Dec 10, 2020 16:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There's a big element of comfort too-I don't think it's all tough guy stuff. Wearing a dust mask all day while doing physical labor, especially if it's hot, is pretty unpleasant. While we may know the risks cerebrally, they're not gonna be a problem for a long time and I am sweating my rear end off NOW. If the problem can be solved with better ventilation or dust collection, that's definitely the more pleasant way to go. Yeah, weighing short-term comfort versus long-term risks is difficult. I guess I've just seen too many people where the risks caught up with them, so maybe I'm a bit overzealous because I really don't want that in my future.
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Dec 10, 2020 16:19
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The idea of working in a full on woodshop and not wearing ppe is crazy to me. Maybe its the poo poo healthcare system here but I've switched to sawstop + 100% festool for safety and dust collection in my tiny garage hobby. A trip to the ER for some stitches or a workup because my breathing is shallow would dwarf every single extra dollar I spent on tool upgrades.
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Dec 10, 2020 16:27
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The Boys
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Dec 10, 2020 17:07
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I did a thing: https://imgur.com/gallery/fddi4Hx preview: 
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Dec 10, 2020 18:13
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Your thread ER-tech-turned-OSHA-monkey says please wear your fuckin PPE. Job/hobby ain't worth dying early/wishing you were. That goes triple for you, Career Sander; invest in a good respirator and wear it religiously, unless the idea of being out of breath from getting out of bed excites you. Bandsaw update: Bottom guide is the old steel bars, which is easy enough to retrofit with Coolblocks, but the top guide is conspicuously absent. Naturally, no one makes aftermarket blade guides of any kind for this thing, and whoever owns Craftsman has disavowed the existence of this particular benchtop model. Looks like today is going to involve some creative cutting and bending of square pipe, since I don't have a welding setup. I will have bearing guides, damnit. The setup and tuning guides posted earlier worked like a treat, otherwise.
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Dec 10, 2020 18:20
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Suntan Boy posted:Your thread ER-tech-turned-OSHA-monkey says please wear your fuckin PPE. Job/hobby ain't worth dying early/wishing you were. That goes triple for you, Career Sander; invest in a good respirator and wear it religiously, unless the idea of being out of breath from getting out of bed excites you. Feck, guess I have to buy a mask.
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Dec 10, 2020 18:36
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Re: PPE I'm 100% on board with hearing protection. I bought headset over the ear style for my riding mower and once I started using it with the saws and everything else it has been amazing. For safety glasses my strategy has been get multiple cheap pairs so there's always a set within reach when I'm about to turn something on. I've been using cloth masks lately when doing anything that kicks up dust - I'm only spending an hour or so in the shop at a time - but I'm noticing that they're better than nothing. I did a bunch of sanding one day and was digging snotty sawdust out of my nose for days afterwards. I started wearing the same kind of cloth mask I've been wearing to go grocery shopping and I no longer have that problem. It's obviously not as good as the proper, professional ones noted above, but I can 100% vouch from unimpeachable anecdotal evidence that a 2-3 layer cloth mask still makes a difference, so if you don't have a respirator, slap on one of your roni masks for quick/hobbyist jobs. I still might get a better respirator-style one before long, especially since I have a bunch of fukken cedar.
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Dec 10, 2020 18:45
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You can get OSHA approved bluetooth hearing protection as well, so if you want to listen to a podcast or something you can and still be OSHA (or whatever is in Canada) compliant. A basic cloth mask is better than nothing, but it's worth knowing what you're breathing. If someone sticks you on a HVLP spray station, you will likely require different respirator or catridges. Depending on what you're breathing, it may be the employers responsibility to provide this. For example woodworking dust below a certain threshold would be optional, ie on your dime. But if it's a nasty chemical then your employer would be required to give you (not make you buy) a P100 or Acid Gas Respirator, or whatever you need to be safe. Know how to read an SDS and recognize when there's an issue. A good family friend is in his mid 50's with terrible COPD. He was a union carpenter / cabinetmaker until 5 years ago.
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Dec 10, 2020 19:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Maybe time to finally buy festool? Jeff Bezos account spotted.
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Dec 10, 2020 19:48
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Y'all are making me really glad I went for PPE right away, I've been using dust masks since my second project and I got a Rockler dust cyclone a few weeks ago when they were on sale, and I've only been casually woodworking since September.
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Dec 10, 2020 19:50
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Rutibex posted:Do you use a tenon cutter? Nope, I think if you went that route they might look weird since the legs would get shoved lower into the body and you wouldn't have shoulders. 3/8" drill bit and square pegs a bit larger with their ends dipped in glue do most of the work. A few quick taps from the brad gun does the rest. We started with screws, but the pegs hold better & look better.
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Dec 10, 2020 19:55
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I'm working on plans to build a bedframe + headboard for my bed. The understructure I can make out of whatever since you can't see it, but I'm not sure what I want to make the exterior out of. The other wood furniture in the room is all dark so given what's locally available for less than $$$ I'm almost certainly going to be staining it. Hard maple seems like a no-go because it's stain-averse, and it seems idiotic to pay a premium for cherry and then stain the poo poo out of it. I can get beech or oak but I don't love the grain for this project. I see people complaining about blotching problems with soft maple though I can't tell if that's overblown—it seems like people complain about stain blotching with almost everything. I don't really want to have to seal it before staining because it will make it harder to get it as dark as it needs to be to work with the other furniture. Ash is looking like an appealing option but I haven't worked with it and I'm afraid there might be a reason I'm not aware of that it isn't more popular. I can also get yellow birch which I also haven't worked with though I've had good experiences with finishing birch plywood. Any advice/insight would be much appreciated. Elder Postsman posted:I also went with sort of wall art shelves and made this several years ago [...] This is a cool design. I moved all of my dishes to a drawer instead of a cabinet recently and when I made the insert to keep them from clanking against each other I almost went with a peg system like this. The shelves falling off would kind of scare me but I guess you could easily just put a lip on them if it was a problem.
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Dec 10, 2020 20:00
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Wallet posted:I'm working on plans to build a bedframe + headboard for my bed. 1. Breathable/airflow to the bottom of the mattress/boxspring. 2. Nothing jutting out that you're going to skin a shin or stub a toe on. 3. Take into account movement on all axis to avoid embarrassing squeaking.  4. Make use of plans on sites like lumberjocks and post sketches/mockups here.
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Dec 10, 2020 20:15
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Yooper posted:You can get OSHA approved bluetooth hearing protection as well, so if you want to listen to a podcast or something you can and still be OSHA (or whatever is in Canada) compliant. A basic cloth mask is better than nothing, but it's worth knowing what you're breathing. If someone sticks you on a HVLP spray station, you will likely require different respirator or catridges. Depending on what you're breathing, it may be the employers responsibility to provide this. For example woodworking dust below a certain threshold would be optional, ie on your dime. But if it's a nasty chemical then your employer would be required to give you (not make you buy) a P100 or Acid Gas Respirator, or whatever you need to be safe. Know how to read an SDS and recognize when there's an issue. I should probably shave my great big bushy beard then, eh?
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Dec 10, 2020 20:18
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Im going to brag on my Grandpa a bit. He's 98 years old and works in his woodshop every day he is able. He's done three craft shows over the last 3 weekends and sold over $2500 worth of cutting boards and has orders for several hundred dollars more. First thing he does is go to the hardwood store to get more lumber. I love this man so much.    My mom bought him a brand for Xmas:  And I made a bunch of ornaments with the lathe. 
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Dec 10, 2020 20:26
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Wallet posted:I'm working on plans to build a bedframe + headboard for my bed. The understructure I can make out of whatever since you can't see it, but I'm not sure what I want to make the exterior out of. The other wood furniture in the room is all dark so given what's locally available for less than $$$ I'm almost certainly going to be staining it. I did a bed out of sapele. With no stain, just finish, it's a nice reddish-brown. Walnut and purpleheart also wouldn't require staining. I don't know what prices are like in your area (prices of specific species tend to vary wildly depending on location) so these may or may not be practical suggestions  I also don't really see an issue with staining cherry if it gets you the result you want. People get up in arms about the morally correct way to build things or use wood, but in the end of the day what matters is that you get the results you want. Other advice -- use bed bolts for assembly. They're quite strong and the advantage of being able to assemble/disassemble the bed is significant. For my bed I used 6/4 lumber for the visible portion of the frame, reinforced by Douglas fir 2x4s, with pine 1x4 slats for the mattress to rest on. I certainly overbuilt it, but I'd rather not be stressing out about my bed falling apart while I'm trying to fall asleep.
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Dec 10, 2020 20:31
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That's a high-quality grandpa. Good for him at that age!
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Dec 10, 2020 20:36
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Feck, guess I have to buy a mask. Please get good PPE. Safety glasses should be at least ANSI Z87 (basic impact rated) or Z87+ (high velocity impact). These are good for a single shot, if your glasses take a hit from something you need to replace them. The ANSI standards also include things like UV resistance if that's of concern for you, but the impact standards are the most useful for woodworkers. Prescription eyewear can also be compliant with the ANSI standards, they must have a manufacturer or maker's mark on the frame or lens, a '+' on the lenses to indicate impact resistance, and Z87-2+ on the frames. If it doesn't have these markings I wouldn't trust it with my eyesight. Hearing protection is a bit easier, just going with good NRR helps, and you can layer earplugs with the over-ear methods as well. Respirators are tough because they protect from various things, vapors, particulates, etc, and you have to have the proper filter for your application. I've had a hard time finding VOC filters lately. Even a cloth mask is better than nothing for dust though. I used to think all this was dumb and hated doing it. Then I had to suit up for some occupational stuff and let me tell you, a bunny suit with double layered gloves, booties, and all the other stuff is way more uncomfortable and the basic PPE is actually not bad at all.
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Dec 10, 2020 21:25
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mds2 posted:Im going to brag on my Grandpa a bit. He's 98 years old and works in his woodshop every day he is able. He's done three craft shows over the last 3 weekends and sold over $2500 worth of cutting boards and has orders for several hundred dollars more.  Grandpa mds2 is a top tier wood grandpa! The ideal life. Do you know how he hollows out the middle of those wood ornaments?
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Dec 10, 2020 21:45
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Rutibex posted:
They are called inside out ornaments. You have all the tools needed! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weW5I_pknHQ
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Dec 10, 2020 21:51
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Wallet posted:I'm working on plans to build a bedframe + headboard for my bed. The understructure I can make out of whatever since you can't see it, but I'm not sure what I want to make the exterior out of. The other wood furniture in the room is all dark so given what's locally available for less than $$$ I'm almost certainly going to be staining it. Ash is a wonderful wood to work with. Basically looks like oak under stain/finish. If you don’t like grainy, it’s not for you. Yellow birch is good too, as is poplar, though it can be a trick to stain. IMO worrying about ‘blotchy’ in stain is kind of overblown. It’s blotchy because the wood has natural figure in it-some people love that, some people want it to look like Formica and be totally consistent. Cherry can be just as ‘blotchy’ as maple.
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Dec 10, 2020 22:16
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JEEVES420 posted:They are called inside out ornaments. You have all the tools needed! Ooohhhhh using hot glue to stick things together temporarily, that's brilliant! I can do all sorts of stuff with this trick. Thanks!
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Dec 10, 2020 22:37
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I should probably shave my great big bushy beard then, eh? It depends on what you're exposed to. We have some nasty stuff that requires P100 Acid Gas cartridges and fitting tests with operators. If they have big beards they tend to have issues with the fitting tests. However if it's just normal dust, then your beard isn't going to make a big difference unless you're the guitarist from ZZ Top or something. Your mask will still catch a majority of the poo poo, it's only when its terribly toxic is missing that 1% going to be an issue.
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Dec 10, 2020 22:43
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Rutibex posted:Ooohhhhh using hot glue to stick things together temporarily, that's brilliant! I can do all sorts of stuff with this trick. Thanks! That and using dabs of CA glue to hold quickly with wood glue for the long term holding lets you get it back on the lathe in an hour or so versus overnight. Can usually batch them out in an afternoon if you stager the lathe/glue times.
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Dec 10, 2020 22:46
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Wallet posted:
If you can get cheap cherry, why not just cherry and no stain? It has a nice mid-range color that won't seem too out of place against either light or dark nightstands
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Dec 10, 2020 23:07
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mds2 posted:Im going to brag on my Grandpa a bit. I dunno where you live but I've seen prices around triple that at tables at farmers markets and fairs here in the bay area california. Your grandpa rules and his work rules and if he's happy clearing out his stock instantly for that amount of money that's awesome, but I bet he could raise prices 50% and not see any dropoff in sales.
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Dec 10, 2020 23:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I did a bed out of sapele. With no stain, just finish, it's a nice reddish-brown. Walnut and purpleheart also wouldn't require staining. I don't know what prices are like in your area (prices of specific species tend to vary wildly depending on location) so these may or may not be practical suggestions Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Ash is a wonderful wood to work with. Basically looks like oak under stain/finish. If you don’t like grainy, it’s not for you. Yellow birch is good too, as is poplar, though it can be a trick to stain. Discomancer posted:These install pretty easily and make good knockdown connections if you have plunge router and chisels, and are nice because they are completely hidden: https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size I put a dowel in the stretchers so they are screwing into something other than just end grain. Cherry isn't cheap, it's just not unaffordably expensive like other things. Blistex posted:4. Make use of plans on sites like lumberjocks and post sketches/mockups here.  Lighter colored stuff is pine in contractor sizes, slightly darker stuff is 4/4. It almost certainly has way more legs than it needs but  And with the outside on there:  I haven't designed any beds before so I'm probably loving some things up, but that's part of the fun.
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Dec 10, 2020 23:45
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make sure you'll be able to periodically flip the slats
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Dec 10, 2020 23:47
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Ash is only cheap because its all being cut due to to the borer that is killing the whole species. The price is reflective of oversupply not necessarily lack of desirability.
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Dec 10, 2020 23:56
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Leperflesh posted:make sure you'll be able to periodically flip the slats Make the slats out of 4x4's then never worry about it
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Dec 11, 2020 00:03
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I want to build some shelves next to our new stacked washer/dryer, but I'd like some advice on the best way to go about that. Free standing? Attach it to the wall? There will be wall on two sides of the shelves, and the washer/dryer on the last side. There is a stud on the left side of the power outlet. Poor MS paint of what I want to do  The white plywood is from a shelf the PO put in, but I had to take it out in order to fit the stacked washer/dryer
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Dec 11, 2020 00:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Sorry I forgot to respond to your other post in the other thread. Since it comes out looking fine with mineral spirits on it, I would not put any additional stain on. It would probably make the areas where you rubbed through the finish much much darker as they would take stain and the rest would not. I would lightly scuff sand the entire top with 320 grit sandpaper and then recoat with the clear finish of your choice. I would suggest clear, dewaxed shellac (you can get it as Zinsser seal coat at big box places or mix your own from flakes) since the existing finish is an unknown and shellac is very compatible with other finishes. You could do poly over the shellac, but then you're making a finish sandwich with a lot of unknowns and that could lead to cracking or adhesion issues down the road. If you do a few coats of shellac and wax over top, it's a fairly durable finish that is also easy to repair if needed. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The butler's pantry looks great! Neat hardware too. I apologize for being annoying about this, but I want to be crystal clear on what the recommendation is here before I put the time and energy into doing this. You've been exceptionally valuable already, thank you! By 'streaks' I'm not referring to differences in texture, but rather uneven color coating. Here's a closeup of the top of my pantry counter, for instance. The splotchy coloring is the result of my uneven application of the shellac. Now, I agree it can be done much better than this. It's a question of whether I can, though.  Here's the steps you're advocating, if I understand it correctly: 1. Light sand of the entire top with 320 grit sandpaper 2. Recoat the entire surface with clear shellac, using the cheesecloth method demonstrated in the linked video(s) 3. Finish with a furniture paste wax (https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Cl...07641288&sr=8-6) If that's what you've laid out, I've got a few questions: 1. How come the color would end up even after I apply a clear shellac, even though the color isn't even now? 2. In the linked video, he puts poly on the shellac, before applying the wax. Is it ok to skip this step, as you seem to be indicating? 3. Do I need to be concerned about the mineral spirits in the beeswax having an impact on the shellac coating? 4. Is there any appeal to using colored shellac instead of clear? I've got plenty of the stuff I used in the pantry, which while not exactly a color match, is fairly close, as they're both quite dark.
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Dec 11, 2020 00:28
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GEMorris posted:Ash is only cheap because its all being cut due to to the borer that is killing the whole species. The price is reflective of oversupply not necessarily lack of desirability. loving hell, I did not need to know this. Are they trying to find any resistant strains of the tree (unlike the great chestnut disaster)? You'd think with all the gene splicing tech going on it could be combatted one way or another.
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Dec 11, 2020 00:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:loving hell, I did not need to know this. Are they trying to find any resistant strains of the tree (unlike the great chestnut disaster)? You'd think with all the gene splicing tech going on it could be combatted one way or another. https://www.sciencemag.org/news/2020/11/can-ambitious-breeding-effort-save-north-america-s-ash-trees
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Dec 11, 2020 00:40
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Wallet posted:It's basically a simple platform bed with slats—I haven't worked out a few things (the face on the foot of the bed is two drawers that aren't in there yet, how I want to attach some parts) but right now the frame looks like this: This is super overbuilt. You can ditch all of the legs that aren't at corners and be just fine. Your bed will be lighter, materials will be cheaper, construction and installation will be easier. On that note, how are you planning to assemble the bed? This looks like it's all pocket hole joinery over which will be (glued? screwed?) hardwood, which is fine except that I'm not sure how you're going to get it from shop to bedroom. I'd give some serious thought to what the major components will be and how big they'll be, so you can do most of the work in a workshop and be able to break it down for transport. I mentioned bed bolts in my earlier post because they're a fairly straightforward way to let you break down a bed into legs + rails. The only gotcha with them is that you need to be able to accurately drill holes into the ends of the rails for the bolts to slide into. It's not impossible to do with a hand drill (which is good, because few people have a drill press with a 6' capacity ), but you'll need a jig to guide the drill. If you do that, then glue the hardwood boards to your structural rails or to the legs but not both, then you should still be able to break the bed down for transport.Also: why make the slats out of hardwood? They'll be covered by the mattress. And note that slats can/should be loosely installed so they have some room to move, so don't glue or screw them to the frame. You can put in little spacers to keep them from bunching up.
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Dec 11, 2020 00:50
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I apologize for being annoying about this, but I want to be crystal clear on what the recommendation is here before I put the time and energy into doing this. You've been exceptionally valuable already, thank you! quote:Here's the steps you're advocating, if I understand it correctly: quote:If that's what you've laid out, I've got a few questions: quote:2. In the linked video, he puts poly on the shellac, before applying the wax. Is it ok to skip this step, as you seem to be indicating? quote:3. Do I need to be concerned about the mineral spirits in the beeswax having an impact on the shellac coating? quote:4. Is there any appeal to using colored shellac instead of clear? I've got plenty of the stuff I used in the pantry, which while not exactly a color match, is fairly close, as they're both quite dark. Leperflesh posted:https://www.sciencemag.org/news/2020/11/can-ambitious-breeding-effort-save-north-america-s-ash-trees Wallet posted:They're crazy here. If I could afford a nice dark wood I'd definitely go that way, but yeesh.
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Dec 11, 2020 01:48
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Well I got injured at work so now I have more time to stop and plan out my projects. For a table saw sled, what's good material for the base? I was thinking of picking up some combi-core plywood (hardwood veneer, mdf underneath, softwood veneer core). The alternative is 3/4" baltic birch. My thinking is the combi-core is likely to stay flatter and more consistent as time goes on, but the rest of the BB is more broadly useful. Also, does anyone have a good resource for starting out with hand planes? I want to be able to properly flatten everything from tabletops to coasters....
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Dec 11, 2020 08:20
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Check youtube for "flatten ______ with hand plane" and you should have +50 results for whatever you want. 1. Clamp or secure thing to be flattened. 2. Set plane to mildly remove material. 3. Remove material by eye. 4. Use straight edge to locate high spots. 5. Use dry erase marker to mark high spots. 6. Set plane to fine(r) removal depth. 7. Remove indicated high spots. 8. Repeat steps 4-7 until satisfied. Use diagonal cuts going across and with the grain from each side of the workpiece to create an "x" pattern. As you get closer to a flat work surface you should be setting your plane to a more fine cut, eventually getting to the point where you are essentially just pushing a bit of dust around and whatever marks remain can be sanded away with some 220 grit in a minute or two. All of this becomes more apparent/obvious after watching a video or two.
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Dec 11, 2020 09:05
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Agree with all that. Watch a handful of videos, too, there's a variety of techniques. Try a few and find what you like. The main thing to remember is that planes do not make things flat. They remove high spots. You can use that to make things flat, but you do it by identifying and removing high spots. I didn't understand that when I started, and it caused a bunch of frustration and wasted effort till it clicked.
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Dec 11, 2020 12:29
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