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Motronic posted:Turns out well built tools cost money. Yep. I buy cheap ones and I'm never sticking them anywhere 120VAC has any real chance of existing. To be fair, I've also never really had any reason to question the voltage coming out of the wall.
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Dec 9, 2020 04:54
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Found this today in my YouTube suggestions. I believe it outdoes the AliExpress "little circle of spinning saw chain death" angle grinder accessory. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuG7AUNgAwY Skip to the end, the guy is really proud of his invention and wants to let the tension build as he assembles it so it takes a while to figure out wtf.
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Dec 9, 2020 08:49
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Hexigrammus posted:Found this today in my YouTube suggestions. I believe it outdoes the AliExpress "little circle of spinning saw chain death" angle grinder accessory. For a while I assume he was going to make a router table with it, but it turned out to be even more insane
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Dec 9, 2020 14:21
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Rutibex posted:For a while I assume he was going to make a router table with it, but it turned out to be even more insane you know you can go to harbor freight and get one fo those for maybe 60bux at HF.. my time and those materials probably worth it. also the purpose built ones probably have safety mechanisms
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Dec 9, 2020 14:37
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I was looking at benchtop belt sanders recently and there are kits to turn an angle grinder into a belt grinder. I said “no thanks” to that, but the chainsaw thing is much worse. Linishing belts for band saws also seem like a worse idea than even a Harbor Freight belt sander.
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Dec 9, 2020 14:43
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Hexigrammus posted:Found this today in my YouTube suggestions. I believe it outdoes the AliExpress "little circle of spinning saw chain death" angle grinder accessory. Lmfao
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Dec 9, 2020 17:53
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Hexigrammus posted:Found this today in my YouTube suggestions. I believe it outdoes the AliExpress "little circle of spinning saw chain death" angle grinder accessory. You could hear that thing struggling bad on a puny 4-5" branch. Real chainsaws can make a few HP from a 2-stroke engine or the equivalent from a torquey electric motor. An angle grinder is all about speed, not torque.
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Dec 9, 2020 20:02
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Less risk for a kickback then at least...
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Dec 9, 2020 20:16
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I've definitely never answered the question "what tool do you think has the most unnecessary safety features on it" with "chainsaw," and I'm guessing none of you have either. I don't even like real electric chainsaws because you can't use chaps with them, much less one using a grinder as its motor.
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Dec 9, 2020 20:50
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stealie72 posted:I don't even like real electric chainsaws because you can't use chaps with them Pretty sure that’s not true anymore.
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Dec 9, 2020 20:53
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Any chance that this router is of an age that it's a reasonable quality router rather than garbage? https://hibid.com/lot/78777810/craftsman-3-4-hp-router-with-case--worked-when/?zip=21801&miles=25&q=&ref=lot-list
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Dec 9, 2020 20:54
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Danhenge posted:Any chance that this router is of an age that it's a reasonable quality router rather than garbage? It's $9, just bid on it and find out
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Dec 9, 2020 20:58
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Rutibex posted:It's $9, just bid on it and find out I guess I'm trying to calibrate how much money is worth risking on it! Which I recognize is kind of personal, but I've got a few hours and thought I'd get some opinions.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:00
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A router for what? It's a motor with a hole on the end. Slap it into a router table and it should be fine. The ergonomics of lovely old routers are where I tend to find most issues. To clarify: Don't get this to do trim. Get this if you want something beefy and stationary or you're flattening a slab/cutting channels in poo poo.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:06
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Cannon_Fodder posted:A router for what? Thanks, that's helpful! I suppose I was probably thinking about trim. I'd like a router table at some point but I don't have the space or the option to majorly redo my existing space at the moment (renting).
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Dec 9, 2020 21:09
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Cannon_Fodder posted:A router for what? Non variable speed, 3/4 HP, with a big rear end motor. Its not beefy but it is big and will spin bits at 25k rpms.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:46
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Bad Munki posted:Pretty sure that’s not true anymore. Having said that, looking around I'm seeing more chaps that are heavy nylon/kevlar and look to be more about stopping the chain from penetrating than throwing fibers into the sprocket. You'd think there would be some clear descriptions/designs of "these throw fibers and are for use with gas saws because they will not stop an electric saw's chain from turning" and "these are ballistic nylon and kevlar and are for use with electric because they will not stop a gas saw's chain from working its way through" but I'm guessing there are lawyers stopping that from happening.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:50
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Okay yeah, that all sounds about right. I swear I remember a Husqvarna product video where they explicitly ran one of their electric chainsaws on their chaps, but that may have been a fever dream.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:51
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Danhenge posted:Any chance that this router is of an age that it's a reasonable quality router rather than garbage? My first router was like, one generation newer than that, so it has a slide switch rather than a paddle switch, and it served me well. I do often find myself missing the weight of all that loving steel when I was running a slot cutting bit around an arcade cabinet. I picked up another one that was in a router table and kept poorly in a dusty shed and the whole thing was seized up and it never wanted to run right and it wasn't really worth trying to fix and is now destined for the curb. Biggest complaint was adjusting depth-- there was no screw or anything to microadjust, just had to loosen the motor from the base and do your best to keep it steady, and I think this one is the same in that regard.
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Dec 9, 2020 22:46
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stealie72 posted:The jury still seems to be out. Stihl still has a big warning about electric saws for their protective gear (despite having an extensive line of electric saws) and Forester's say not appropriate for electric saws. Husqvarna, Oregon, and Arborwear don't mention on their desciptions. Wow I had no idea about this. I have gas chainsaw with protective gear, but if I were to buy an electric one I would have no idea unless it said so in the manual for the electric saw.
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Dec 9, 2020 22:49
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Just wear one of these and you won't have to worry if you have a gas or electric saw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MEUOW7cERI
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Dec 9, 2020 23:45
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Danhenge posted:Any chance that this router is of an age that it's a reasonable quality router rather than garbage?
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Dec 10, 2020 01:27
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Bad Munki posted:Pretty sure that’s not true anymore. I know I’ve watched several videos testing chaps on battery operated saws and they seem to work perfectly well with all the major tool brands. Could be some sort of rpm/torque monitoring in the brain box cutting it out though, instead of mechanically binding and stalling. Thankfully haven’t had any opportunities to test it out with my chaps
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Dec 10, 2020 03:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Those old craftsman routers are good but as others have mentioned, depth adjustment isn't as slick as more modern ones. If it's old but not run a ton, it's probably fine, but if it was used a lot in it's long life there's a decent chance the bearings are shot and it will be an even louder screaming hunk of metal. It seems like it probably had a long life, this looked like a legit woodworker's estate sale, there was basically every power tool and a bunch of hand tools that somebody might want on sale, all looked well-used. Thanks for the tips everyone.
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Dec 10, 2020 04:06
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Hexigrammus posted:Found this today in my YouTube suggestions. I believe it outdoes the AliExpress "little circle of spinning saw chain death" angle grinder accessory. Just buy a chainsaw you loving psychopath jfc
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Dec 10, 2020 05:34
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McSpergin posted:Just buy a chainsaw you loving psychopath jfc Nonsense, chain brakes, tensioners, and good controllable grips with bucking spikes are for safety sallies. Real men don’t need intact femoral arteries Something something participation trophies
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Dec 10, 2020 07:12
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I’ve picked up a set of Roper Whitney Redi-Set rivet squeezers (one of those too good to pass up eBay finds) and I’m hoping someone can give me an idea of disassembly. According to the diagram (http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5611) the frame (1) is held onto the handle assembly by a split retaining collar (2) and retaining spring (4). Is this an arrangement where I would push down on the frame to compress the retaining spring, then the collar would fall off? If I do that with my hulk strength am I going to feel very silly when I can’t put it together again? I’d like to take it apart to clean and de-rust a little. E: update, Roper Whitney have some very nice people who emailed me instructions (which are basically what you’d think from looking at the plan). I highly recommend them if you need an enormous autobrake. Vindolanda fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Dec 10, 2020 |
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Dec 10, 2020 15:52
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I was just helping mom pick a vacuum cleaner and came across the Makita DCL180Z. I already have one of the knockoff 18V batteries I used with the impact and drill, and this was just $26. Seriously.  It's probably intended for the shop/job sites but since my only vacuum so far is a roomba, it's exactly what I needed for to clean up the DIY messes around the apartment or just the things the roomba doesn't get. Doesn't come with a brush but it looks like there are universal ones you can buy. 
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Dec 13, 2020 14:57
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Got a link on that one? I'd like to give it a try
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Dec 13, 2020 16:51
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https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DCL180Z-li-Ion-Cordless-Cleaner/dp/B00Y3PF3QO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=DCL180Z&qid=1607877125&sr=8-3 but it's like 80 bucks. I guess the sale is a local thing, I've seen it at similar prices in several stores but not in the US, sorry  E: I'm really happy with what it does, but dunno if there are better options at that higher price range. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 17:47
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mobby_6kl posted:I was just helping mom pick a vacuum cleaner and came across the Makita DCL180Z. I already have one of the knockoff 18V batteries I used with the impact and drill, and this was just $26. Seriously. Eh, It's OK. I have one (in white) and it's an acceptable dustbuster. Now that I bought a Fein vacuum, it basically never gets used. It was convenient for cleaning out a cabinet base after securing it, or for cleaning up a little mess, but mine has a non-latching on/off switch, which is annoying, it's pretty loud, and the dust cup clogged pretty quickly with sawdust. For $26, it's a buy. For $>50, not so much.
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Dec 13, 2020 19:04
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sharkytm posted:Eh, It's OK. I have one (in white) and it's an acceptable dustbuster. Now that I bought a Fein vacuum, it basically never gets used. It was convenient for cleaning out a cabinet base after securing it, or for cleaning up a little mess, but mine has a non-latching on/off switch, which is annoying, it's pretty loud, and the dust cup clogged pretty quickly with sawdust. For $26, it's a buy. For $>50, not so much. Mine doesn't have a latching switch either, but that seems fine since I'm not cleaning the whole apartment with it. Is the Fein one of those rolling buckets types? My parents have a giant old Philips like that and it's great for larger surfaces, but also much more annoying to move around, especially if you have stairs in your house  This is definitely not a primary cleaner but I think it's a good addition if you have Makita gear and can get one on sale.
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Dec 14, 2020 15:16
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My Fein is a Turbo II. Big canister shop vac. And yeah, I'm not cleaning the house with either of them. The Turbo basically goes with me on whatever job I'm on, so there's no need for a dust buster anymore. It's so much quieter than a normal shop vac. If I was doing mobile installs, I'd bring the Makita. In the shop or a big house project, it's the Fein.
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Dec 14, 2020 15:40
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Manual rivet tools -- are they all the same basic thing at this point, or is there a go-to brand whose product won't fall apart after a dozen rivets? Perhaps Arrow or Stanley? I don't need a heavy-duty monster, just something to put together small bits of hardware onto sheet metal.
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Dec 15, 2020 08:28
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Arrow is good. Cheap stuff is slightly less good. They all kinda suck.
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Dec 15, 2020 13:28
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Ah, unsurprising yet disappointing. But thank you for confirming what I suspected!
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Dec 15, 2020 17:30
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Trabant posted:Manual rivet tools -- are they all the same basic thing at this point, or is there a go-to brand whose product won't fall apart after a dozen rivets? Perhaps Arrow or Stanley? I don't need a heavy-duty monster, just something to put together small bits of hardware onto sheet metal. I've never had any problems with "Trades Pro" pop rivet gun. But my Rivet experience is very limited, I think its a cheap brand?
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Dec 15, 2020 17:41
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I picked up an Arrow pop riveter from 1985 at an estate sale and it's identical to one you'd pull off the shelf today. Seems the design peaked long ago.
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Dec 15, 2020 17:52
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Filthy Hans posted:I don't need one in the near future, but are there any electrical meter manufacturers with a reputation as solid as Fluke's but not nearly as expensive? Motronic posted:
Look up the Fluke 15b/17b. It is a fluke but the model is made for the Chinese market and the 15b only costs around £60 NEW here in the UK (ebay/amazon and some specialist tool shops have them). I bought myself one and it is great! You can in theory buy yourself a $5 multimeter for general/occasional use. However, bear in mind that a $5 multimeter likely has no safety rating and might not have an internal fuse. What these 2 things mean to you concern what happens if you do something like accidentally shorting it across mains voltage while on the wrong setting. Doing this on a $5 meter results in an exploding/rapidly disappearing meter (and the chance of a shock) and is not advisable. The fluke above is rated to deal with this so should in theory not kill/injure you and you should also just be able to replace its fuse and use it again. If you don't buy the fluke one then make sure that when shopping you buy a meter with a CAT II rating (600v or 1000v), and preferably a replaceable internal fuse.
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Dec 15, 2020 19:27
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Sparkfun has a dirt-cheap multimeter that's out of stock that allegedly is CAT III https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12966 as well as a cheap but not quite as cheap DMM that is allegedly CAT II https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12967 if I was going to roll the dice with a budget non-fluke I'd check out their options
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Dec 15, 2020 20:41
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