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regulargonzalez posted:My thought was that the port is probably for water from the dishwasher This. regulargonzalez posted:and that there's likely a 1-way valve in there... No. But there is one at the outflow of the D/W pump motor. regulargonzalez posted:...since you wouldn't want sink water going into the dishwasher either. Or, that it's high up enough on the disposal body that backflow isn't a concern. Correct. The drain line loop must rise above the disposal inlet (or higher if possible) regulargonzalez posted:But if I need the actual air gap unit then so be it. As noted, it's code...but I have been running a D/W in my house since 1992 without one. It drained into the garbage disposal, but then I re-plumbed it through the basement in a way that enrages real plumbing goons here...but it has worked flawlessly for the past 12-years.
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Dec 20, 2020 17:21
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H110Hawk posted:My in-laws have an older one (on the order of 7-10 years as it was installed with their reno which completed years before we bought this house 5 years ago.) and it suuuuucks if you do it on anything other than auto. On auto it works fine. It's not an 800 series but more in line with ours which is like 500/600ish, the grade between 300 (do not buy) and fancy (800) or luxury (whatever bougie crap Motronic got suckered into at the dealer. It's probably been stated recently but auto modes typically use a turbidity sensor to detect how dirty the water is getting; usually once it stops making dirty water, it will begin rinsing. Auto modes nowadays are usually the best balance for cleanliness and energy efficiency, and will still use less water than half washing. Processing water takes energy, and I try to conserve on everything but poo poo posting.
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Dec 20, 2020 17:47
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) Definitely have to keep good soap and jet dry in it, and it does need a bit more scraping of plates. We're on the same water supply and neither of us have a pretreatment on that. Ours holds twice the stuff and is unstoppable.
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IOwnCalculus posted:My Honeywell Lyric thermostat has this "circulate" mode which is perfect for this. If the system hasn't called for heat or cooling for too long, it runs the fan for a bit. I have a Honeywell T9 that does this. The app and thermostat are okay but have issues. Sometimes it doesn't think I'm home. I have it set to keep the bedroom at x temp at night instead of the main living area. But when it 'preheats' to get to the specific temp by 6am... It doesn't switch to the main living area sensor so it gets mighty hot since my bedroom has old leaky windows and is the furthest run from the furnace.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:11
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I have a weird simple question about Window balance shoes. So in one of my windows, I believe the balance show was replaced, this part: (not my pic, but I'm not taking my window out to get it now) However the new shoe protrudes below the bottom of the window on one side, so when the window is closed, it doesn't actually touch on the bottom on the left side, letting in cold air. I suppose I can replace the shoe but that's always been a huge pain. I figure for the winter I can just put some weather stripping on the bottom so when the window closes it will seal on that. The window still locks ok, so another 1/8" of foam isn't going to cause a problem I don't think. Does that make sense? Maybe in spring or if I get a few warm days I'll replace the shoe, I replaced a few others and they were stupid expensive.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:12
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Not a window expert but you can just leave the metal bracket out of that bit and close it. It won't really stay up when you open it but it's winter and it won't matter. I hate dealing with those things especially if one shoots out /up when you pull the whole window out. I had a few in my house where the window wasn't in that bit and it was highly annoying. It takes me 20 mins of fighting to get it back properly.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:17
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Sounds like you have the wrong part installed. But can't you just not put the window in the shoe on that side and close it all the way for the winter? e:f,b
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Dec 20, 2020 18:19
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Motronic posted:FYI, I think you were talking about "got to loving rinse off dishes before putting them in there" and this is a foreign concept to us Bosch havers. My parents remodeled their kitchen this summer and I talked my dad into buying a Bosch. My mom hates it because 'it is slower than the old one' If she doesn't stop complaining I'm going to steal it.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:31
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tactlessbastard posted:My parents remodeled their kitchen this summer and I talked my dad into buying a Bosch. They're all "slower than the old one" now. You should totally steal it.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:35
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tater_salad posted:Not a window expert but you can just leave the metal bracket out of that bit and close it. It won't really stay up when you open it but it's winter and it won't matter. Oh that's a really good idea. the shoe stays in place, I can even just leave the left side unhook for the time being, the right side holds the window well enough as it is.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:41
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Motronic posted:They're all "slower than the old one" now. You should totally steal it. Seconded. Bosch is like, the brand to beat but I got a great deal on a midrange kitchenaid. The kitchenaid one is way better even though it is wayyyyy slower than my old one.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:20
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What's funny is 2.5hrs isn't that long, and at the 2hr mark you can open it to air dry nearly instantly. How many loads per day are people doing? Ours runs between 1-3:30am daily. Are people just staring at it waiting for it to finish so they can put them away instantly? Or is it just old people bitching?
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Dec 20, 2020 19:46
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Do people really have dishwashers that run for 2.5 hrs? Mine it like a 10ish + year old frigidaire and its done in about 45-60 minutes. I'm not looking at the dishes through a microscope, but with an exception or two for a dish thats got some poo poo really crusted on there, everything appears to come out visibly clean.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:56
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EXTREMELY GERMAINE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rBO8neWw04
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Dec 20, 2020 20:02
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wesleywillis posted:Do people really have dishwashers that run for 2.5 hrs? My low tier bosch is 2 hrs to run from start to finish. I feel like the last 30-45 is dry time. Also it's really not an issue. I usually run mine at night or in the morning after work from home breakfast. Really doesn't bother me at all.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:18
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wesleywillis posted:Do people really have dishwashers that run for 2.5 hrs? Yes. Your dishwasher can do this in 60 minutes, like any decent quality older one could, by using 4x the water and power.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:20
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tater_salad posted:My low tier bosch is 2 hrs to run from start to finish. I feel like the last 30-45 is dry time. Also it's really not an issue. I usually run mine at night or in the morning after work from home breakfast. Really doesn't bother me at all. Word. I guess if you're taking dry time in to account that adds significantly. I never pay attention to that part. Just when it's making noise.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:22
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wesleywillis posted:Word. I guess if you're taking dry time in to account that adds significantly. I never pay attention to that part. Just when it's making noise. Dry time is significantly different as well. Euro style models heat the final rinse water to get heat into the tub to dry the dishes. Domestic models have a heating element which works a lot faster. And melts any plastic that falls down during the wash cycle. There's just a lot of fundamental differences in operation that explain the cycle time differences, but they all come down to energy and water savings.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:25
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At its hottest temperature cycle with heated dry and steam enabled, ours can take in excess of 4 hours. The steam cycle at the beginning is pretty short, but the heated dry takes forever and I’m considering not even using it anymore if the tech coming soon can’t get it working correctly because what a waste of time and energy if I still have to put multiple dishes on our drying mats before I can put them up. When it does work, the water is hard enough that not even Jet Dry softens the water enough. We still get a white film on our dishes and it gets kinda baked on via the heat. Funny thing is, a tech a few years ago had come to do something to it (I forget the problem), and he told us to run our sink faucet before starting a cycle so hot water would already be in there. At this time our hw recirc pump hadn’t taken a poo poo yet, and the dishwasher itself could heat up water fairly quickly so I’m not entirely sure why he told me that
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Dec 20, 2020 21:04
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life is killing me posted:At its hottest temperature cycle with heated dry and steam enabled, ours can take in excess of 4 hours. The steam cycle at the beginning is pretty short, but the heated dry takes forever and I’m considering not even using it anymore if the tech coming soon can’t get it working correctly because what a waste of time and energy if I still have to put multiple dishes on our drying mats before I can put them up. When it does work, the water is hard enough that not even Jet Dry softens the water enough. We still get a white film on our dishes and it gets kinda baked on via the heat. Sounds like you need a water softener. The bougie one I bought has one built in.
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Dec 20, 2020 21:22
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life is killing me posted:
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Dec 20, 2020 21:24
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tactlessbastard posted:My parents remodeled their kitchen this summer and I talked my dad into buying a Bosch. I noticed this with our latest washing machine - a Maytag. The shortest run time is 55-minutes. Typical is an hour & 40. I swear the old Kenmore could clean anything in under an hour on the 'heavy clean' cycle. I'm mentally prepping for the death of the '84 KitchenAid dishwasher. This is the second one of these trash-picked tanks I've had - haven't bought a dishwasher since 1995...but the parts are simply no longer available and the bearings are starting to whine as it spools down. I am looking forward to the higher efficiency and capacity. I am definitely not looking forward to the all-electronic control heads and the loooong delay before the thing actually starts. I installed a weird German model I've never heard of (A Kucht) for my niece three weeks ago - and I tried to test it before I slid it into place. It lit up; we hit 'start'. Nothing happened for at least thirty seconds. I was wondering aloud about its condition, when it suddenly started running. Couldn't find (i.e. figure out) a cancel button, and it was slow to respond to any pushing on the control face. This lack of ergonometric controls is going to annoy the hell out of me. Give me knobs with detents and mechanical buttons, please. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Dec 20, 2020 |
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Dec 20, 2020 21:51
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wesleywillis posted:Just when it's making noise. What's this "noise" dishwashers make?  (Yes all of my rentals had things more aptly called dishgrinders. Cleaned for poo poo and were deafening to be near.)
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Dec 20, 2020 21:53
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PainterofCrap posted:
Could it have been filling, and you just couldn't hear it cause it's well insulated? 30 seconds is about how long it takes to fill before the pump kicks on. Also, I think holding "Start" is your cancel/triggers the drain pump to cycle, though usually it's noted as such on the control panel so maybe not.
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Dec 20, 2020 22:40
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angryrobots posted:Could it have been filling, and you just couldn't hear it cause it's well insulated? 30 seconds is about how long it takes to fill before the pump kicks on. Also, I think holding "Start" is your cancel/triggers the drain pump to cycle, though usually it's noted as such on the control panel so maybe not. Nah; we heard the solenoid valve kick open. It is very, very quiet - it ran quieter than anything I've ever heard when it was sitting out on the kitchen floor. Installed? Ja, I might not have even heard the inlet valve open.
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Dec 21, 2020 03:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Nah; we heard the solenoid valve kick open. I can't hear mine do poo poo for a while either. I'm with you and kinda feel like user inputs on things like this are merely suggestions. (unless I can have some gear hooked up to actually show me something is happening)
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Dec 21, 2020 03:15
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PainterofCrap posted:Nothing happened for at least thirty seconds. I was wondering aloud about its condition, when it suddenly started running. Couldn't find (i.e. figure out) a cancel button, and it was slow to respond to any pushing on the control face. This lack of ergonometric controls is going to annoy the hell out of me. Give me knobs with detents and mechanical buttons, please. My new house came with a Duet washer and dryer and I can't complain about their performance but jesus christ I hate the controls
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Dec 21, 2020 11:46
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My shower didn't seem as warm as usual this morning, and when I went down to look at the water heater (circa 2006, gas) the floor was wet from a slow drip out the relief valve. What do?
Toebone fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Dec 21, 2020 |
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Dec 21, 2020 12:04
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We're going to need some basic information, such as make & model & is it electric or gas At fourteen years, it is likely at the end of its useful life and you should replace it. You are fortunate to have gotten a warning rather than a flood. You can try draining it down below the level of the relief valve and replace it (it unscrews). Given the age of the unit, there may be substantial hidden corrosion and the valve nipple may shear off, leaving you without any hot water until you replace it. Take a look at the bosses that the piping enters and exits from. The condition of those joints may be a clue. However, a temperature issue is unrelated to the valve. Water may be leaking down the inside of the case and may have affected the burner/controls.
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Dec 21, 2020 17:21
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As good a place as any to ask- I'd like to add some sound reduction to my office, as I can't have meetings (read: play video games) late without waking the kids or keeping the wife up. I'm looking at some sound proof paneling, but all of the materials I can find online are telling me about how to insulate a room designed to play or record music, not how to make a very quite speaking / mechanical keyboard room. I don't know what low mids are or how important they matter for speaking voices. Anyone have any advice on this subject? I just don't know if I want 1" or 2" panels, or if all I really need is a sound reduction curtain, or if really there is no hope and voices quantum teleport through any type of materials when there is a light sleeper nearby. The latter seems most likely based on the current climate in my house. Again, the primary things keeping everyone up are angry typing on a mechanical keyboard, and barked commands at other pilots in titanfall2.
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Dec 21, 2020 18:00
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   It's still dripping, about once every 3-4 seconds.
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Dec 21, 2020 18:09
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Step one is seriously to get a quieter keyboard. I would have a daytime and nighttime keyboard and put a USB extension cord to make them easy to plug in. You might want to look at white noise as well as sound absorption (panels/curtains). Mechanical white noise machines can cut sound dramatically - they are what is hidden in therapist waiting rooms to make it so you can't hear what's going on 1 room away.
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Dec 21, 2020 18:09
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TimWinter posted:As good a place as any to ask- I'd like to add some sound reduction to my office, as I can't have meetings (read: play video games) late without waking the kids or keeping the wife up. I'm looking at some sound proof paneling, but all of the materials I can find online are telling me about how to insulate a room designed to play or record music, not how to make a very quite speaking / mechanical keyboard room. I don't know what low mids are or how important they matter for speaking voices. Yeah just get this sound machine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HD0ELFA If you share walls with any sleeping rooms put the thickest panels possible with no gaps on that wall. You probably need to hang a curtain over your door too and get a cute draft stopping snake or whatever to block the bottom gap of the door. Consider speaking less and quieter and perhaps different keyboard or keycaps that aren't as loud.
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Dec 21, 2020 18:23
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in my unprofessional opinion, that isn't good.
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Dec 21, 2020 19:33
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Man that is why I don't mix metals
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Dec 21, 2020 20:18
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So my loving dishwasher decided to drain, but only after we (my wife) paid $85 to have someone come out and tell us it was working just fine. That remains to be seen, I didn’t like the repair guy (he was some independent dude who wasn’t very professional) and the next full wash I run better work. He said he didn’t think it was the pump, he said the problems were likely the valve but I think it was just clogged somehow since it drained the day after I ran vinegar and baking soda through it. E: So in essence: problem with dishwasher, now no problem with dishwasher. Anyone saying valve was probably right, since it was draining some I guess. Still don’t know that it works life is killing me fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 21, 2020 23:08
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Toebone posted:
drat, that is a good-looking 14-YO unit. OK you have galvanic corrosion because of the mixing of brass and whatever is on the threaded end of that overflow down-pipe. That corrosion has worked its way into the valve seat. Try replacing the valve. You should be able to remove the valve with a wrench or Vise-Grips. First shut off both hot cold supply valves, and drain the tank until it's a bit lower than the relief valve. Them remove the down-pipe. Then, the valve itself. A new one is under $20. You can probably re-use the down-pipe after cleaning the threads and using a neutralizing pipe dope, or install an all-PVC overflow down-pipe.
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Dec 22, 2020 04:13
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I tapped the valve with the handle of a screwdriver a couple times and the leaking stopped. If it acts up against I'll try replacing the valve.
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Dec 22, 2020 04:44
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Toebone posted:I tapped the valve with the handle of a screwdriver a couple times and the leaking stopped. If it acts up against I'll try replacing the valve. 
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Dec 22, 2020 05:02
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Is there such a thing as a taller than normal old work gang box, or anyone have any suggestion how to fix this? I rewired a room today, lathe and plaster walls. All went fine but one of the outlet holes is too tall - the lathe board fell perfectly in the cutting area and it’s about a half inch too tall for the wings on the old work box to catch correctly.
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Dec 22, 2020 05:35
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No but what you can do is expose some lath above or below and use wood glue and some scrap wood thinner than the plaster to put a surface in for it to bear against like I did here with a mantle outlet that was originally installed way too low. Only do that in spots that’ll be hidden since the patch will never look right however.  Or do it the right way and use expanded metal mesh stapled to the lath on either side if you’re really confident in your ability to put down new plaster. corgski fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 05:58
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