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I am halfway through my first set of friulmodel tracks and i gotta say, having to drill out each tracklink sucks!
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Dec 20, 2020 14:48
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Nerobro posted:Looks like the process is: If there's any white in it, you'll have to use a printer that prints white. I was gonna do a print for a 1/16 British Sherman build called "Fox Hunt", but forgot that I need to have a white option. That and they're just not as vibrant as professional decals
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Dec 20, 2020 15:48
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I'm trying to find some tanks in the US and coming up short. Fortunately, these don't need to be anywhere by Christmas. 1) The Tamiya 1/48 M4A1 is weirdly hard to find. So far I've found it on Hobby Search, in stock, and not even listed most other places. I'd rather avoid shipping across the Pacific on a slow boat, but hell if I can find any of my usual US shops that have it. 2) S-model kits in general. I've been getting what I had from Michtoy, but they're out of basically anything I'm interested in. I found this place https://realtoys.aliexpress.com/store/group/S-model/1270215_260733039.html but I have no idea if it's any more or less sketchy than your typical AliExpress shop. If anybody has any leads or suggestions, I'd appreciate it.
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Dec 20, 2020 17:44
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grassy gnoll posted:2) S-model kits in general. I've been getting what I had from Michtoy, but they're out of basically anything I'm interested in. I found this place https://realtoys.aliexpress.com/store/group/S-model/1270215_260733039.html but I have no idea if it's any more or less sketchy than your typical AliExpress shop.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:06
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boba fetacheese posted:I am halfway through my first set of friulmodel tracks and i gotta say, having to drill out each tracklink sucks! Agreed. If they would only slightly tweak their process and use a marginally higher grade of metal, they could provide tracks with cleanly molded hinges.
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Dec 20, 2020 21:51
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As an early christmas present for myself, I'm using my mystery project as an excuse to expand the tool collection. So I've set up a new tool table for my larger tools, moved my existing Ryobi drill-press to it, and added the Rikon 10" Deluxe Bandsaw, and the Proxxon Mini Wood-Lathe. So far both work superb, and I've really expanded my ability for large and small projects. Especially the bandsaw, as the only thing I had for powered cutting prior to this was a dinky Dremel scroll-saw (which I've come to hate).
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Dec 21, 2020 05:56
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:As an early christmas present for myself, I'm using my mystery project as an excuse to expand the tool collection. So I've set up a new tool table for my larger tools, moved my existing Ryobi drill-press to it, and added the Rikon 10" Deluxe Bandsaw, and the Proxxon Mini Wood-Lathe. So far both work superb, and I've really expanded my ability for large and small projects. Especially the bandsaw, as the only thing I had for powered cutting prior to this was a dinky Dremel scroll-saw (which I've come to hate). Awesome! Now do yourself a favor if you are resawing wood, and buy a Wood Slicer blade from Highland. It's a night and day difference from the stock generic blades that come in these small 10" bandsaws. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx Edit: Also you'll want some sort of a shop-vac/vacuum with a hose to connect to the dust port on that thing when you are using it. Edit2: If you are interested in the Proxxon mini-mill (MF70) I am probably going to bite the bullet on a Sherline here in the next 6 months or so at which point I'll be selling the Proxxon. I'll make you a good deal on it if that's something you might be interested in. The Locator fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Dec 21, 2020 |
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Dec 21, 2020 06:21
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:As an early christmas present for myself, I'm using my mystery project as an excuse to expand the tool collection. So I've set up a new tool table for my larger tools, moved my existing Ryobi drill-press to it, and added the Rikon 10" Deluxe Bandsaw, and the Proxxon Mini Wood-Lathe. So far both work superb, and I've really expanded my ability for large and small projects. Especially the bandsaw, as the only thing I had for powered cutting prior to this was a dinky Dremel scroll-saw (which I've come to hate). looks awesome. Don't forget a couple of push sticks to keep your fingers out of the way of the blade when you're ripping timber.
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Dec 21, 2020 06:34
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The Locator posted:Awesome! Now do yourself a favor if you are resawing wood, and buy a Wood Slicer blade from Highland. It's a night and day difference from the stock generic blades that come in these small 10" bandsaws. Thanks for the tip on the blade. The default blade that came with the Rikon, and the set of 3 I also bought, seem to be doing great, but I'll keep the Woodslicer in mind if need to do a bunch of dedicated resawing. I'll pass on the Mini-Mill, but thanks though. I don't see any need for a mill in the near future, and I tend to only tool up when I have a specific need in mind. I'm sure someone else here may take you up on the offer though.
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Dec 21, 2020 07:31
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I'm about halfway (maybe?) through the Jagdpanzer IV/70 build. If dust from sanding plastic models is bad for you, I've probably done more damage to my lungs in the past week than I did during the decade I was smoking. While it was intimidating at first being a Dragon kit and all, I'm finding myself more and more relaxing and zoning out working on this thing for a few hours at a time.  You might be able to make out the slight silver highlights I drybrushed onto the black equipment on the engine deck. There's also still a lining of some kind of tacky/putty recommended in the thread at some point for masking. Next will be the roof with it's hatches and various bits and pieces, the instructions for which made my vision blur at first glance. Speaking of instructions, there were four large tabs sticking up from the sides of the lower hull frame that had to be removed in order to attach the fenders above the tracks. This was not mentioned in the instructions, but other than that they've been very accurate and easy to follow as long as I take my time. I also left the upper tracks off as they're assembled link by link and the side skirts will be hiding the unfinished sections.  My biggest issue, despite painstakingly masking all the mantlet parts with putty or tape, has been failing to mask everything I need to mask. I've spent a significant amount of time over several steps going back and sanding/scraping off paint and primer because I hadn't realized all the points where two pieces would need to be glued. Going forward I'll need to pay more attention. The Locator posted:
This is incredibly dumb but in the most awesome and cool way. There's a guy on YT with a video series that's 4-5 years in to rebuilding an early 1900s boat and I could easily see your project taking as long as the real thing. Definitely keep posting updates on this.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:07
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Vorenus posted:Tank chat Some absolutely fantastic and sharp details on this thing, thanks for the pictures. The welds on the front armor plates being included is awesome.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:46
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Hell yeah, tank chat. Looking good so far, I'm working on a Bishop right now for a group build due on December 31st, and of course I decided to do the interior even though it added a good week onto my painting time and also requires tedious masking of uneven surfaces.
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Dec 22, 2020 04:59
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The Locator posted:Edit: Also you'll want some sort of a shop-vac/vacuum with a hose to connect to the dust port on that thing when you are using it. I'm not sure if the dust collection on my bandsaw (Grizzly 15") sucks or if it is the case with all bandsaws, but even with the shop-vac hooked up it still makes a huge mess. Also, I put a new blade on a few months ago then stuck my head up my rear end and tried cutting through steel rod thinking it was aluminum and immediately ruined the blade. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 17:37
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm not sure if the dust collection on my bandsaw (Grizzly 15") sucks or if it is the case with all bandsaws, but even with the shop-vac hooked up it still makes a huge mess. The dust collection on my Wen bandsaw isn't great, but it's a lot better than nothing. There is always a fair amount of cleanup to do after bandsawing wood, but the active dust collection seems to do a pretty good job of sucking up all the fine particles so they aren't floating around in the air. Most of the cleanup is just vacuuming up the larger sawdust that remains on the table and around the saw. I also open up the bottom and vacuum out the stuff that collects in the corners once in a while. I only ever cut wood on mine, so I haven't managed to toast a blade like that!
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Dec 22, 2020 19:45
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Gewehr 43 posted:Yes, that is the common pronunciation across the pond. hard to explain why but for some reason this really weirds me out
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Dec 22, 2020 21:38
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The safest thing to do is to assume that English people are pronouncing things wrong on purpose to gently caress with the rest of the world TBH.
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Dec 23, 2020 00:57
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Arquinsiel posted:The safest thing to do is to assume that English people are pronouncing things wrong on purpose to gently caress with the rest of the world TBH. you seppos pls explain why the gently caress you pronounce caramel, aluminium and solder the way you do.
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Dec 23, 2020 01:19
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Big Willy Style posted:you seppos pls explain why the gently caress you pronounce caramel, aluminium and solder the way you do.
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Dec 23, 2020 01:58
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Big Willy Style posted:you seppos pls explain why the gently caress you pronounce caramel, aluminium and solder the way you do. lol do you weirdos pronounce the l in solder
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Dec 23, 2020 02:07
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Guys, guys, can't we all just get along. Let's put aside this pronunciation donnybrook, and get back to huffing model glue and injuring ourselves with sharp tools.
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Dec 23, 2020 02:29
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You know what else really sucks? The "hairy stick" joke.
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Dec 23, 2020 02:36
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its sod-er, say it right
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Dec 23, 2020 02:37
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Guys, guys, can't we all just get along.  ETA: as only thread regular sitting inside the Pale, I declare all your pronunciations to be outside it by virtue of geography.
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Dec 23, 2020 02:50
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Arquinsiel posted:No idea what you're saying, sorry. I'm Irish. my condolences
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Dec 23, 2020 03:14
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hey what do you guys like for re-scribing panel lines and riveting work?
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Dec 23, 2020 03:59
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Arquinsiel posted:I think you'll find the "d" should be capitalised, as "Donnybrook" is a proper noun So you're saying this discussion has gone beyond the Pale?
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Dec 23, 2020 05:35
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Neddy Seagoon posted:So you're saying this discussion has gone beyond the Pale?
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Dec 23, 2020 05:41
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The giant boat building project slowly moves forwards. After lots of measuring I figured out that it was simply impossible to fit the giant building board into my current shop in a way that would allow access to both sides of it without some of my existing stuff being moved elsewhere (or just removed). So I moved my big rolling storage unit thing into another room completely, and turned my wood storage shelf sideways. Then, I removed the desktop that has been my primary work area since I moved into this room and got it set up, and that just went off into storage in another room. The two 'side' desks then gained the drawer units from the center section and got pushed all the way back against the walls (they were about 6" off the wall before). Now the building board has room to go into the center, but I am going to have to get a 2' x 6' work-bench to put it on top of there in the middle of the room. So chock up another fairly big chunk of money that I need to spend before I can actually get started. The bench needs to be very sturdy with a really solid top with no sag in the middle, so it can't be a cheap bench. But hey, at least I can now see that it will fit! I'll buy a bench with droppable casters so I can easily shift it back and forth as needed while I'm working on the other desks or the power tool benches. 
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Dec 23, 2020 07:07
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You took seriously.
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Dec 23, 2020 07:14
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Going to need a bigger doorway if he finishes it and then decides he needs to move it out of the room. I wanted to link this excellent diorama I came across. For the level of effort and quality this guy deserves far more views.
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Dec 23, 2020 07:42
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Vorenus posted:Going to need a bigger doorway if he finishes it and then decides he needs to move it out of the room. Gonna watch that in the morning, the beginning looked excellent. It's funny that you mention getting the ship out of the room. If I do get to the point where I start rigging it, I actually will have to move it to my living room or kitchen as once it's fully rigged it absolutely will not be able to get in or out of my shop room as the entry is at the end of a hallway and the building board won't make the corner while flat!
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Dec 23, 2020 08:00
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Jonny Nox posted:hey what do you guys like for re-scribing panel lines and riveting work? A razor saw is the business for re-scribing panel lines, and also a great tool to have in general. Rivets are trickier. There are riveting tools out there, but you might be best served with a poke with a sharp pick or a twirl of your knife if you're only doing a couple at a stretch.
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Dec 23, 2020 15:17
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grassy gnoll posted:A razor saw is the business for re-scribing panel lines, and also a great tool to have in general. For razor saws, this saw blows away anything from X-acto that I've ever seen - http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=35  It's my go-to tool for cutting small stuff and I assume it would work well for anything you already use a razor saw for. You can also get this tiny mitre-box for it that will give you perfect 90, 60 or 45 degree cuts in very small stock - http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=3340 
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Dec 23, 2020 16:42
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That JLC is exactly what I'm looking for, but It's hard to find in Canada. I'll probably get one shipped from CZ in the new year. (Shipping from the US to Canada is stupidly expensive compared to literally everywhere else in the world and I refuse to do it) Thanks!
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Dec 23, 2020 17:21
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Can confirm the JLC saws are basically magic. Importing straight from Czechia is definitely your best bet if you're outside of the US. And hey, good news, you won't have to compete with the British market in 2021!
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Dec 23, 2020 17:50
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Jonny Nox posted:That JLC is exactly what I'm looking for, but It's hard to find in Canada. Let me know how that goes, I want to order these things too.
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Dec 23, 2020 18:10
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Dear Scale Modeling Thread, May I present to you, in honor of the holiday, a festive project: The Christmas Nightmare, or: How To gently caress Up A Dragon Model.    After a week or two of painstakingly building this kit of many pieces, I loaded up my fancy Iwata Eclipse and laid down a camo job that probably ruined Christmas for Jesus. My first model, painted with a cheap $15 Chinese USB-charged airbrush, looks like Masa Narita's grand opus by comparison. At the very least, I could not have picked a better day in the year to complete this abomination. Merry Christmas! For reference, here's the last thing I did with an airbrush this summer:  If anyone is curious, the build itself was pretty good. One thing I didn't like was what felt like a lot of unnecessary plastic nubs on parts. Not actual flash, just the little protruding nub that isn't part of the piece. It was especially annoying on the tiny pieces like antennas. Other than that, zero flash whatsoever, everything fit well. The gun and breech especially are insanely detailed and gorgeous, and I regret gluing the roof in place and covering that part. E: Scrubbed the model with iso, got most of the paint off. Iso didn't touch the Stynylrez primer since it's waterbased, can anyone recommend a good product for taking it down to bare plastic without eating the plastic or can I just re-prime and paint over the thin layering that's still there? Vorenus fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Dec 25, 2020 |
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Dec 25, 2020 08:45
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So my parents gave me liquor for Christmas so this isn't my best post ever buuutttt... here's the thing about WW2 German armor camo: the German logistical system was a tire fire. Many armored vehicles were shipped out with a generic paint job and some cans of pigment designed to be mixed with gasoline--the idea being that engineering paint to use gas as thinner represented less of a drain on resources than having to ship out turpentine or whatever. But the Germans were continually short on fuel. The result of this is that a significant number of German tanks were painted using used motor oil, diesel from captured soviet tanks, or loving lake water as thinner. So who knows what color they'd end up in actual service. Meanwhile the troops spraying camo onto tanks had a realistic idea of what they were accomplishing, so they regularly did whatever, from scribbling colors at random to whatever the gently caress produced the picasso stug.  Point is, it's really hard to gently caress up camo on a Nazis tank so bad it's not defensible.
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Dec 26, 2020 00:05
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I appreciate the kind words. I wasn't thrilled with the actual color, but my frustration was more with the actual laydown and the fact that the poor patterning was due to fighting to control the airbrush. Did some reading and it looks like you can get much better results for fine lines by removing the needle cap (or buying a fancy crown cap). I already have a backup needle, so my next day off I'm going to fiddle with PSI and no cap and see what I can do. It's just such a good kit, it deserves a better paint job.
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Dec 26, 2020 14:27
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 Looking forward to following this one. Clueless question: When building wooden model ships, is species selection influenced by the chosen scale? I’m somewhat familiar with woodworking for full-size airplanes, but it occurs to me that grain structure could play a part in that for something so small.
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Dec 26, 2020 15:39
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