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Motronic posted:How am I supposed to play duck hunt like that? Point it at your lamp and get the high score.
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Dec 27, 2020 20:10
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I need a replacement part for my sink but I'm not sure what to look for. My bathroom sink was clogged, so I took it apart and got all of the nasty crap out of there, but in the process it seems like either the threaded part that sits in the hole of the sink to hold the pipe tight to the sink basin cracked or the only thing holding it together was all of the nasty gunk. I tried using some water-weld I had from when my kitchen sink was falling apart but it didn't cure fast enough and the pipe came out. What do you call the top threaded part that goes in from the top of the sink to hold the pipe that comes in from the bottom of the sink? I'm trying to get this done as cheaply as possible because it should be the apartment complex's responsibility but their reaction to COVID was to fire maintenance and just ghost anyone calling for repairs on the apartment. So I don't care if it falls apart in another year, because gently caress this management company that's breaching the terms of the lease because they know nobody here can afford to sue them.
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Dec 27, 2020 20:39
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What do you call the top threaded part that goes in from the top of the sink to hold the pipe that comes in from the bottom of the sink? Tailpiece. Super common to find a "good enough" generic one at any decent hardware store.
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Dec 27, 2020 20:55
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 Is it supposed to be like this? Many of the outlets do this
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Dec 27, 2020 21:02
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Charles posted:
I take it you're not getting shocked when you touch the outlet face plate? If not, try putting the black lead in the ground pin. It will probably read no voltage there. This is really where a multimeter would com in handy to get an actual voltage reading. But it looks like you have a ground fault somewhere. If you've got an old electric clothes dryer and it was running try turning it off and testing again. If you have an old electric stove or over and can unplug it try that as well.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:08
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Motronic posted:I take it you're not getting shocked when you touch the outlet face plate? If not, try putting the black lead in the ground pin. It will probably read no voltage there. When I was going to plug in a surge protector it arced and I got the smell of electronic smoke. I didn't have it quite lined up because it was dark but it made me suspicious that shouldn't happen. The surge protector (it's probably just a power strip actually) still has those little LEDs light up if I plug it in elsewhere but I feel like it's not safe to use anymore if it popped a cap or something (especially the built in USB outlets). OK, I will get the multimeter and check. This is not my forte, obviously. Replacing one outlet is fine, but anything on the panel I'm not comfortable with.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:16
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Charles posted:When I was going to plug in a surge protector it arced and I got the smell of electronic smoke. I didn't have it quite lined up because it was dark but it made me suspicious that shouldn't happen. It arced? When in contact with the face plate? That's not just a ground fault issue. You should find the breaker for that outlet and turn it off. Like right now. And call an electrician at your convenience once that's off.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:26
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Yeah, I'm getting a full 120v if one lead is in hot and the other touching metal, or the ground plug.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:34
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Motronic posted:It arced? When in contact with the face plate? That's not just a ground fault issue. You should find the breaker for that outlet and turn it off. Like right now. I'm not sure exactly what happened but I saw a flash and I smelled electronics smell.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:36
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I need advice on painting a wall. The apartment we bought had a bedroom wall with wallpaper that we wanted to get rid of. The wall might be concrete and is an outer wall in an element building. I have now removed the wallpaper. This left the paint underneath with some stripes missing (stuck to the wallpaper) and some larger areas that have tiny holes in the paint. I put filler in the main areas, let it dry, sanded it down, but this leaves me with a new issue: the different texture of the treated parts. The treated parts are smooth and the rest is droopily ribbed (an ordinary paint texture, don't know how to better describe it). The wall gets sun at an angle where differences in the surface would show. You'd think this would be a common issue, but I've had a hard time finding solutions talking to some paint/hardware store clerks. I looked at the drywall patching guide on page 1 of this thread. The guide's suggestion of finding a way to produce that same texture is relevant, but I don't know how to do that. None of the clerks suggested that. Another fix could be putting up "painting wallpaper" first and then painting. By "painting wallpaper" I mean the sort of renovation wallpaper that provides an even texture and is meant to be painted over. One clerk suggested having a professional paint with a cement texture paint. I already bought some regular paint before all this went down, and would like to use it and keep costs reasonable. But in the end, I will pay what needs to be paid and get professionals involved if that's what it takes to get a wall that looks nice. Any advice on my options? Is there something I'm missing? Thank you!
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Dec 27, 2020 21:46
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Charles posted:Yeah, I'm getting a full 120v if one lead is in hot and the other touching metal, or the ground plug. Wait...if one lead is on HOT? You were on neutral before. The plate/screws should be ground. So hot to the plate/screws/ground SHOULD BE 120v. Plate/screws to neutral or the ground pin should be 0V. If it's not, that's the concerning part.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:46
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Motronic posted:Wait...if one lead is on HOT? You were on neutral before. The plate/screws should be ground. So hot to the plate/screws/ground SHOULD BE 120v. Plate/screws to neutral or the ground pin should be 0V. If it's not, that's the concerning part. The little one is hot...that's where I had it in the pic above. OK I will test the other way too to be sure
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Dec 27, 2020 21:51
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Charles posted:The little one is hot...that's where I had it in the pic above. OK I will test the other way too to be sure My bad, my bad, i thought I was looking at it being in neutral, which makes showing voltage not okay at all. If it shows 120v from hot to neutral, hot to ground and hot to the plate/screws (all ground also) that's fine. Then from neutral try going to all those points except for hot. It should always be 0v. If that's the case it's wired properly.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:54
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Motronic posted:My bad, my bad, i thought I was looking at it being in neutral, which makes showing voltage not okay at all. OK cool, not sure what exactly zapped last night then. Maybe the neutral prong of the power strip got close enough to the hot plug and the ground pin made contact with the metal 🤪 I dunno
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Dec 27, 2020 21:56
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Charles posted:OK cool, not sure what exactly zapped last night then. Maybe the neutral prong of the power strip got close enough to the hot plug and the ground pin made contact with the metal 🤪 I dunno I almost wonder if it's not just a power strip. It may have a capacitor in it that was totally discharged and you just saw an arc as you got close to completing the circuit.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:59
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Motronic posted:I almost wonder if it's not just a power strip. It may have a capacitor in it that was totally discharged and you just saw an arc as you got close to completing the circuit. I looked up the product description and it calls them wall taps, but it also has usb plugs, so it does have electronics.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:05
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I'm trying to put up some fencing around our garden. The term "garden" is kind of loose here because it's over 2,000+ square feet. We have to worry about deer as well as critters. We're trying to use 8' t-posts with 8' treated wood corner posts roughly 6" around. The goal is to have 2 feet of post in the ground and 6 feet exposed. This might rightfully raise some alarm bells, but just keep going for now because there's more. We need to run three sets of wires across this. We have an upper mesh to block out big animals, and a smaller hardware cloth at the bottom to keep out smaller animals. We are using those ratcheting tensioners to tighten the wire. My wife thought the wires needed to be steel and the smallest we could find from the Tractor Supply Company was something like 12.5 gauge. This seems too big based on videos I've been watching. I'm a weeny but I am also pretty sure this is too big. In particular, the way people can just snap the wire by turning back on itself is something I don't think I'll ever do with the gauge I've been using. Each terminus and corner has one 6" post and the rest are t-posts. There aren't additional posts along each segment. No segment is less than 100 feet. Nonetheless, you may have anticipated these posts are getting yanked when we tension the wires. I don't think we're overtightening them. The wires seat on the t-posts, but we can still move them up or down a slot on them with just our finger. It might even be too loose? A concession here: I didn't personally do any of this homework and have been doing it based on what my wife advised. She looked up a bunch of stuff and then did some scaling back because she didn't think this had to be too strong. It looks like we're dealing with the consequences now. I think we need brace the posts diagonally into the ground at a minimum. I'm seeing posts connecting diagonally to the ground but I'm not sure what's happening at the ground to brace them. I'm also seeing notes about dropping the posts 3.5' into the ground, and not just 2'. I actually don't even think I could dig that deep. I'd definitely need an extender for our gas-powered auger, but the soil turns into caliche within a few inches. It took a lot of technique and determination to get the holes I did. I am thinking based on the strength of our ground that just going deeper won't do it. I also suspect we would be fine using the 14 gauge aluminum wire since I'm personally reading that 12.5 gauge is apparently for cattle. I'm not sure that'll actually reduce the amount of force we're putting on the posts. I'm also wondering if maybe I don't need the wires at all and should rely on the mesh in some fashion. I'm generally curious what would be more robust here and what I should be looking for.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:18
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Charles posted:I looked up the product description and it calls them wall taps, but it also has usb plugs, so it does have electronics. Lots of phone charger USB adaptors will cause a pretty gif arc when you plug them in, it's the capacitors trying to draw a butt-ton of current to charge up when you plug it in, if you're fumbling around it will make it worse. I wouldn't worry about it unless it replicates. Could also be thre dongle you're plugging in frying itself I guess.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:25
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I'm trying to put up some fencing around our garden. The term "garden" is kind of loose here because it's over 2,000+ square feet. We have to worry about deer as well as critters. We're trying to use 8' t-posts with 8' treated wood corner posts roughly 6" around. The goal is to have 2 feet of post in the ground and 6 feet exposed. This might rightfully raise some alarm bells, but just keep going for now because there's more. We need to run three sets of wires across this. We have an upper mesh to block out big animals, and a smaller hardware cloth at the bottom to keep out smaller animals. We are using those ratcheting tensioners to tighten the wire. My wife thought the wires needed to be steel and the smallest we could find from the Tractor Supply Company was something like 12.5 gauge. This seems too big based on videos I've been watching. I'm a weeny but I am also pretty sure this is too big. In particular, the way people can just snap the wire by turning back on itself is something I don't think I'll ever do with the gauge I've been using. 1: how deep is the frost line where you live 2: 6 foot fence? Are the deer midgets where you live? 6 feet ain't poo poo. Unless it's an enclosure so small that they can't get a running start from the inside they will go right the hell over that fence. They can do 4 feet from a dead stop easy. 6 feet is like 2-3 strides.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:27
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Motronic posted:1: how deep is the frost line where you live I'm in Central Texas. Our frost line is roughly where the grass and our hoses are. Yeah I was amused by the height but apparently that's okay for our specific area.
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Dec 28, 2020 01:22
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I bought a house about two months ago. It's a newly remodeled one story ranch above a decently big crawlspace in the greater Atlanta metro area. We have hardwood floors throughout, and as of a week or two ago there are a couple of spots where the flooring has become uneven. If you walk across them you can feel a couple places where one plank has sunk maybe 1/16” and the seam between the boards is prominent. My question is, how do I determine if it's an issue with how they did the flooring or if it's an issue with the subfloor? Can I persuade all the boards back together and shim the edges, or do I have to start worrying about pulling all the floor up and correcting/leveling the subfloor?
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Dec 28, 2020 06:58
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Hiekka posted:I need advice on painting a wall. It's going to be about impossible to make it look really good as a spot repair, especially on a "sight wall" where you regularly look down the length of it with a light source on the other end. Best bet would be to do something over the entire wall like a high-build primer that will smooth out the inconsistencies or have the wall/room textured with a light orange peel or similar. A high build primer you may be able to diy with ok results but would would get way better finish sprayed
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Dec 28, 2020 13:55
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I'm in Central Texas. Our frost line is roughly where the grass and our hoses are. Yeah I was amused by the height but apparently that's okay for our specific area. Any fence that doesn't support itself along its length (like a privacy fence or picket fence) is going to have to have a strong corner post at each corner braced against the direction tension is applied to it. If you are going to stretch your wires (whatever gauge you wind up going with) enough to keep the fence from looking like poo poo, there's going to be enough force on the corner to pull out any T post. Unfortunately for you, you still have some major expenses in front of you buying a pre-made corner post (I assume this is a thing) and quickcrete to anchor it. If you want to do it tactless style you have a bunch of digging and tamping ahead of you. For each corner, you need 5 cedar posts. They need to go 4 feet into the ground so bear that in mind when selecting for length. Dig a hole where you want your corner, insert post, add quickcrete ($$) or tamp (labor & tiiiiiiime) thoroughly to set the post firmly in the ground. Make sure the post is straight as you set it. Posts 2 and 3 are set in the ground the same manner about 5 to 6 feet down the fence line in each direction you've got fence running. Good news! Posts 4 and 5 do not go into the ground. They get nailed into the fence bracing the top of the corner post to the bottom of the next post down the fence. This makes a nice snug triangle so any lateral force applied to the your corner post (say from wires in tension, or some rear end in a top hat backs a tractor into it). After all your posts are set and nailed in, take a loop of wire and run it around the top of posts 4 and then around the base of the corner. Place a stick in the loop and twist the loop until the wires are very tight. This provides tension on the post down the fence to keep it from shifting and weakening the corner post. Now do it for every corner, and you'll have to do it again (with three posts set in the 'N' pattern again) on each side of every gap you want for say, a gate. I realize this is not exactly fix it fast, but it's going to get you fence that will look better and last longer.
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Dec 28, 2020 15:06
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Stalizard posted:I bought a house about two months ago. It's a newly remodeled one story ranch above a decently big crawlspace in the greater Atlanta metro area. You're gonna have to go into the crawlspace and look at the underfloor. The steps to fix it are going to depend on what you find down there. Post photos.
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Dec 28, 2020 15:51
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:
Wait, you aren’t auguring holes for your T posts, are you? Those are designed to be driven straight in with a fence post driver. The 8’ T posts I put in earlier this year had flat metal tabs, so I sharpened them to a V on the bottom with my angle grinder and that helped them go in a lot easier. That would definitely explain your wobbliness at any rate. For your corner post, recommended setting is 30” hole, 12” diameter, 6” gravel on the bottom, and set the post with quikrete or post foam. Don’t forget a post level. For your application you could almost certainly get away with less, but you might as well do it as best you can the first time around. Since you already have the auger for the initial bore hole, a manual post hole digger and tile spade would make quick work of expanding the holes to the correct size.
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Dec 28, 2020 16:14
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Soooo...twice in a week our master bathroom vanity light fixtures tried to kill us. But not with electricity, see. No, this was with the frosted glass randomly falling off onto the vanity counter. First my wife’s side, then mine. On my wife’s side, it shattered. She had to call me to come bring her some shoes to walk around. For me, it chipped. Not sure whether to get new fixtures or not, for two different fixtures to do this the same week seems a little much, like they are both starting to take a poo poo. A little threaded ring that looks like it kept the glass in place was VERY hot to the touch right after it happened the second time. But I’m not sure we need something like these lights that could cause injury. Our house is 2014-built, we are the only owners, the builder himself was a poo poo show, and they cheaped out on a few things. I used to be okay with Hampton Bay until these lights but these things could seriously hurt us or our toddler if it happens again and gently caress that. Anything we should know going into this? Like, decent brands that aren’t poo poo?
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Dec 28, 2020 16:27
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life is killing me posted:Soooo...twice in a week our master bathroom vanity light fixtures tried to kill us. But not with electricity, see. No, this was with the frosted glass randomly falling off onto the vanity counter. First my wife’s side, then mine. On my wife’s side, it shattered. She had to call me to come bring her some shoes to walk around. For me, it chipped. Why was the fixture getting hot? Generally the only thing that can kick out real heat in a fixture is the wrong wattage incandescent bulb. I'm curious about that. Without getting into niche brands, here are some options. You can also check the line card for your local lighting store, those places are typically good at avoiding the worst of the worst brands: Expensive - Hubbardton Forge Pricy - Rejuvenation, Schoolhouse, WAC Affordable - Kichler, Generation (these brands have expensive options too, but they have a low-end that is largely missing from the above brands) Kuzco is a reasonably affordable brand if you like 'modern' styling, but I think 100% of their catalog is integrated LED which I avoid because you need to replace the entire fixture if there is an issue (ie - no bulb).
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Dec 28, 2020 16:57
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Fuckin' water. So I've got this:  The spray-foam is new. I had this open for the last few seasons (but not last winter) and did not see any indications of water here. It can be hard to tell from this picture, but I'm seeing water both above and below the plastic. Any suggestions on potential causes, based on the water pattern? I'm not experienced enough to gauge if that might be condensation, or if the spray foam is inconsistent/created new paths and an existing leak of some kind is being drawn down to that spot. This appears to be happening around the base of another stud a few feet away as well. Both spots its happening were hard-to-foam places, and I've since done more demo and exposed more (also why you see a few different attempts of spray foam). This sells me somewhat on poor air seal + hot inside air = lots of condensation. I can tell you it doesn't seem to actively leak during heavy rain/snow. This stud is completely covered but I can touch the top plate and top bit of this stud in the other spot its happening and its dry. Let me know if any additional pictures/info might help. I guess I'm looking for any thoughts on it, or possible diagnostics.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:10
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OSU_Matthew posted:Wait, you aren’t auguring holes for your T posts, are you? quote:For your corner post, recommended setting is 30” hole, 12” diameter, 6” gravel on the bottom, and set the post with quikrete or post foam. Don’t forget a post level. For your application you could almost certainly get away with less, but you might as well do it as best you can the first time around. Since you already have the auger for the initial bore hole, a manual post hole digger and tile spade would make quick work of expanding the holes to the correct size. Yeah everybody's pretty universally pushing for a fence post mix or some foam in the holes. They're going in with just some little bits of rocks. My wife thought that was enough based on... I don't really have an idea. tactlessbastard posted:I realize this is not exactly fix it fast, but it's going to get you fence that will look better and last longer. Thanks. Also, is "tactless style" just "your style" or is that an actual term? It isn't a fix it fast but I just skimmed and didn't see a farm nerd thread or similar. I just figured somebody here's been through this.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:29
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Yeah everybody's pretty universally pushing for a fence post mix or some foam in the holes. They're going in with just some little bits of rocks. My wife thought that was enough based on... I don't really have an idea. So far most of what you've posted seems to be very light on research. And I'm not quite sure all of the actual concerns have been addressed or could be because I don't think you know enough to know what you don't know. I'm going to make a suggestion: get in contact with your county ag extension. Ask to get in touch with one of the master gardeners. They will know, specifically for right where you are, what the best practices are. From fence composition/height for the local animals to the right construction with minimal cost. These all vary based on your general location. The locals are going to know for sure.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:43
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Field fencing An H braced corner as described is definitely the strongest. A quicker solution, but better imo than setting in gravel/concrete alone, is to notch in a diagonal brace to the ground, with the foot of the brace pole against another line (upright) pole. Or if your ground is hard and dry, you could possibly get away with burying a brick or rock as a foot for the brace. Motronic is also right about the deer being able to clear 6' easily. You may have more luck using the posts and poles to hang some pie plates or something else to scare them, than fencing. There's an old guy here who finally got mad enough at the deer to put up an 8' chain link fence with another 12" of barbed wire at the top. Funny thing to see out in the middle of nowhere.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:50
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Thanks. Also, is "tactless style" just "your style" or is that an actual term? Its just the way we've been doing it on the farm back home for years. I have to admit that the method is strongly influenced by the fact we had a lot of cedar trees and chainsaws lying around.
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Dec 28, 2020 19:06
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LlamaTrauma posted:I found some water in the basement dripping down the corner masonry blocks during a recent heavy downpour. Headed outside to see if a downspout had popped loose or something, but didn't see anything obvious, so I started poking around and whoa... a hole in the house. Somehow in two years in this house we never notices this 3/4"-ish wide gap in the wall letting anything in: bugs? rats? obviously water. TacoHavoc posted:I would get some backer rod and use a polyurethane caulking. I love that stuff. https://smile.amazon.com/PC-Products-92507-PC-Xtreme-Elastomeric/dp/B008DYN6BK
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Dec 28, 2020 19:44
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Motronic posted:So far most of what you've posted seems to be very light on research. The one thing I do know is that six feet is fine here. The neighbors going down this road further and further from the bustle have all succeeded with six feet, but I believe they've also either braced for a guide wire or let the mesh look a little wonky. I also understand that six feet sounds peculiar. I remember deer from where I grew up versus here and they're much smaller here.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:02
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:The one thing I do know is that six feet is fine here. The neighbors going down this road further and further from the bustle have all succeeded with six feet, but I believe they've also either braced for a guide wire or let the mesh look a little wonky. I also understand that six feet sounds peculiar. I remember deer from where I grew up versus here and they're much smaller here. Maybe your muely deer can't jump that high. But as I recall you were talking about a rather large enclosure. If your neighbors have smaller enclosures or have things that are tall planted around the edges of the inside that absolutely makes a difference so what you see working for them won't work the same way in a fenced in area that they can easily land in and take a running start to get out of. They are pervasive. And I don't know what else you've got there, but if I don't bury hardware cloth around the bottom of my fence the rabbits will start absolutely DESTROYING things. But that's the kind thing that goes back to the local ag school having local knowledge. Edit - and by the way: Rocko Bonaparte posted:we didn't need it because "it's only a deer fence, not a livestock fence." You might want to mention that it's a livestock fence where the livestock are on the other side of it. It still needs to fulfill the same role of "keep the livestock on the side they currently reside on". Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 20:07
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HycoCam posted:I'm in the backer rod and polyurea camp. All the polyureas I know, including the one you linked, are self leveling for horizontal surfaces and won't hang well on op's vertical joint. A one-part polyurethane such as Vulkem, Sonneborn NP1, or Sherwin Williams S1/H1 over backer rod would do well and is probably what the other poster was suggesting.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:39
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Final Blog Entry posted:All the polyureas I know, including the one you linked, are self leveling for horizontal surfaces and won't hang well on op's vertical joint. A one-part polyurethane such as Vulkem, Sonneborn NP1, or Sherwin Williams S1/H1 over backer rod would do well and is probably what the other poster was suggesting. You are right! Have loved the stuff when used in the past, but I only use it on expansion joints. I imagining that stuff flowing right down and curing in seconds--it would be a disaster...
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Dec 28, 2020 21:20
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So I have a door and frame falling out of place on one side -- it's still secure on the other. Looks like it was just held in place by some small nails, visible in second photo. I'm not sure why this is happening -- the door doesn't get slammed, and I haven't noticed any other doors shifting or sticking so it's probably not a foundation issue. (fingers crossed). The door is to a half bath and shower that's used daily, so I think it might have warped from heat and humidity. Recommendations? Should I just grab a hammer and wood block and do my best to pound it back into place, or is there a solution with more finesse?  
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Dec 28, 2020 22:14
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Selachian posted:So I have a door and frame falling out of place on one side -- it's still secure on the other. Looks like it was just held in place by some small nails, visible in second photo. I'm not sure why this is happening -- the door doesn't get slammed, and I haven't noticed any other doors shifting or sticking so it's probably not a foundation issue. (fingers crossed). The door is to a half bath and shower that's used daily, so I think it might have warped from heat and humidity. There are many ways to secure a door frame into an opening, short nails through the trim isn't really one of them. You want to push it back into place and then sink nails/screws through the interior face of the jamb into the side of the framed opening. It's an interior door, it won't take much.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:19
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That appears to be a pre-hung door that wasn't attached properly. In fact, it appears they though caulking around the trim would be good enough. I'd want to see more of that, but in general it's likely you need to get that thing back in place, verify that it's level and square (which very often requires shims which means you've got to remove trim on one side or the other) and then sending some long screws through the door frame, any shim(s) and the framing around it. Ya know....like they should have done when it was installed.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:21
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