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Tezer posted:Why was the fixture getting hot? Generally the only thing that can kick out real heat in a fixture is the wrong wattage incandescent bulb. I'm curious about that. No idea why it was getting hot. As far as I can tell, our current light fixtures in there are integrated LED themselves. They have tiny bulbs. I’ll look again and take a photo but I’m fairly sure they aren’t incandescent—though the heat makes me wonder if I’m wrong. The bulbs have never been changed in six years (the house was built in ‘14) and they all still work, plus I’ve never seen a household incandescent in that size and style but then I’ve never had to look. That’s why my guess is they were pre-installed in the fixture and integrated in the expectation they’d never need to be changed, leading me to think they are LED. But LED don’t give off that kind of heat, only toward the base of the bulb where the electronics are. But they are brighter than most run-of-the-mill household 60w replacement LEDs so who the gently caress knows. I believe whatever generated the heat caused the (plastic) ring to come loose and the weight of the glass shades did the rest. It seems like a problem that could be chalked up to inevitable, or possibly a design flaw. It’s weird it happened to both in the same week, as if they reached some kind of breaking point. We are good about turning off lights in our house when we leave a room, and we don’t turn them on if we don’t need to. When it happened on my wife’s vanity fixture, she’d been in there maybe twenty minutes. Same for me—giving my son a bath for fifteen or twenty minutes. No others have fallen out. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 00:11
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I got a bookend from a fancy design shop. Unfortunately, it’s poorly designed. It seems like as an afterthought, the designer added a piece of double sided silicone tape and superglued it to the bottom to resist sliding. I think the tape is ugly. It’s already gummed up with dust and won’t stay grippy forever. Also, it raises the book-side of the bookend up, which makes it prone to tipping over to the front or back, parallel to the pages of each book.   It’s made from eighth inch thick enameled steel pipe. It’s very heavy, but inherently unstable and also prone to tipping toward the books if one is taken out. It takes barely any force to tip over in any of three directions if it isn’t braced with a book, and if that happened it would probably fall straight through the glass shelf I have it on right now. It was a gift and I’m committed to keeping it. It needs some counterweight in the bottom, and a more even and less ugly grip on the bottom. My current plan is to cut some L shaped rubber strip and place it all around the bottom opening as a grip, so it evenly supports the bookend but is just barely visible, then force fit in a container of sand or pennies that’s just the right diameter? How would you fix this?
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Dec 29, 2020 03:05
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I'd put a poo poo-ton of lead weights in the bottom 1" and plug the end with a big round rubber foot composed of some softer, grippy rubber. Glue the rubber disc in so only a millimeter or so protrudes, and drop sinkers, shot or other lead weights in through the top until it'll stand up to a cat rubbing on it. Then stuff something / pour epoxy in the topside to keep it secure PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 03:19
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kreeningsons posted:I got a bookend from a fancy design shop. Unfortunately, it’s poorly designed. Lead weights are good, you can get wheel weights pretty cheap to peel and stick. Tungsten is pricier but also really heavy for its volume. You could plug up halfway through and epoxy the weights in, and then when it has cured, drill some circular indentations into the epoxy for rubber feet.
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Dec 29, 2020 04:42
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Good ideas, thank you. Yeah, I should carve/cast a single stopper for the end out of rubber/epoxy, instead of fussing with the rubber strip like my previous plan. Actually I think a hockey puck might be close to the perfect size.
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Dec 29, 2020 04:57
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Wheel weights would be good since they self adhere and can be placed along the inner diameter.
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Dec 29, 2020 17:59
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I have a pickle and need some advice. I'm trying to mount a headboard (which is just a 60"x30" piece of reclaimed wood). Originally it was mounted to a home-made frame, but I'd like to mount it to the wall of my condo. The wall I'm looking to mount it to is about a 1/4" of drywall with concrete block directly behind it, with a small air gap between the drywall and concrete. I was thinking of using a french cleat/z-hangar to mount the headboard. What fasteners would be best for the wall, concrete screws? I have an old dewalt 12v drill which cannot drill into the concrete, I'm guessing I'd need to rent a concrete drill for the pilot holes?
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Dec 29, 2020 18:29
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MA-Horus posted:I have a pickle and need some advice. Yeah tapcons, aim to get 1" into the concrete. You'll need at least a hammer drill, but renting a nice rotary one will make it that much easier. You can also buy cheap ones (<=$50 bucks) that can do the job, and any other minor tasks you might have. I know where I am renting a hammer drill for a day is half that anyways.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:17
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Buy, use twice, return. I’m not going to pretend I’m above that.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:48
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kreeningsons posted:I got a bookend from a fancy design shop. Unfortunately, it’s poorly designed. If it was me, I would attach a sacrificial book to the vertical pipe piece. That way it will always stand on its own and be more stable.
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Dec 29, 2020 22:11
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Does anyone have any experience with siamp toilets? I want to get in and adjust the float on this one but I can't get it to budge, so I don't know if it's clipped in or if I push it up like most in wall toilets. I hate in wall toilets.
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Dec 29, 2020 23:13
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Any recommendations for replacing simple basement hanging bulb lights in an unfinished basement? Right now I am thinking just recessed led can lights in denser placement. It's dark now and I want it much brighter.
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Dec 30, 2020 01:52
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For unfinished spaces I’d recommend something like these, or the much more expensive but more reliable Feit or Cree products in the same vein. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...83141/206028970 Five of these light my entire 25x30 basement, for reference.
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Dec 30, 2020 02:37
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Seconding Corgski's recommendation, unfinished basement ceilings are usually pretty low, which makes can lights not light up the space worth a poo poo, plus they're kinda flimsy and subject to damage if left in an unfinished space.
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Dec 30, 2020 02:55
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corgski posted:For unfinished spaces I’d recommend something like these, or the much more expensive but more reliable Feit or Cree products in the same vein. I can't speak for relative quality but I got these cheap LED lights on amazon and I've got zero complaints. Basement is much more pleasant than it was with a few old incandescents scattered about.
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Dec 30, 2020 03:14
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Cool, thanks, I was leaning towards those bigger strips anyway and I can get them pretty flush to a joist to stick out way less than the stupid light globes we have here now.
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Dec 30, 2020 03:53
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So my electrician is suggesting we remove this here stud on my upper floor to install a sub panel. Cool. Is this a hire-a-structural-engineer situation or can any random handyman slap some extra studs onto the left and right side and add a header on top and call it a day? In a slightly more complicated question, my basement has a wholly unnecessary soffit. And all those boards running left to right across the underside of the ceiling were just there to tack the old ceiling tiles to... right? Is this he sort of thing I want a structural engineer for? Will they even be interested in these petty questions? 
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Dec 30, 2020 09:37
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1. Unsure, how far is the next closest stud? 2. Those are 'furring strips' and are 100% there to attach ceiling tile too no need to ask an engineer.
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Dec 30, 2020 12:10
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corgski posted:For unfinished spaces I’d recommend something like these, or the much more expensive but more reliable Feit or Cree products in the same vein. Elviscat posted:Seconding Corgski's recommendation, unfinished basement ceilings are usually pretty low, which makes can lights not light up the space worth a poo poo, plus they're kinda flimsy and subject to damage if left in an unfinished space. To piggy back on this: Is there anything special about installing lights like this in a crawl space (versus a basement)? I'd love to do something better than the single bulb we have to light our entire crawl space. It seems like it'd be pretty simple to replace the existing light with a junction box and then install a switch + 5-7 of those lights. Can I just run romex between all the fixtures? Bonus question: is there anything that'd be smart to do for future-proofing? Like running conduit (flexible metallic if at all), or installing a junction box for each light? It's a crawl space so this is probably way overkill, but I'm always willing to spend a little extra time/money up front to save future me a headache. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Dec 30, 2020 |
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Dec 30, 2020 13:42
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PENETRATION TESTS posted:So my electrician is suggesting we remove this here stud on my upper floor to install a sub panel. Cool. Is this a hire-a-structural-engineer situation or can any random handyman slap some extra studs onto the left and right side and add a header on top and call it a day? Reframing a single stud on an interior wall is almost certainly within the engineering capabilities of a decent carpenter. DaveSauce posted:To piggy back on this: You can do that, just be careful with clearances and whatnot. In open framing with no drywall running conduit doesn't buy you anything, it's always going to be easier to drill holes and run romex, especially compared to fishing wires through flex.
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Dec 30, 2020 17:02
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PENETRATION TESTS posted:So my electrician is suggesting we remove this here stud on my upper floor to install a sub panel. Cool. Is this a hire-a-structural-engineer situation or can any random handyman slap some extra studs onto the left and right side and add a header on top and call it a day? If it's non-load bearing you only need a 2x header installed flat as long as it's within 24 inches of the surface above. If it's bearing, refer to table R602.7(1) of the 2015 IRC which is the code that most US jurisdictions currently use. So ya, your handyman can do it, but ask them "why did you choose that size header?" and if they don't know, then you've got a problem.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:29
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Tezer posted:If it's non-load bearing you only need a 2x header installed flat as long as it's within 24 inches of the surface above. If it's bearing, refer to table R602.7(1) of the 2015 IRC which is the code that most US jurisdictions currently use. So ya, your handyman can do it, but ask them "why did you choose that size header?" and if they don't know, then you've got a problem. If the stud is replaced with two studs on either side of the new sub panel (assuming the panel is 14.5"), why would he need a header? If anything it would add to the support of the top plate compared to the current setup.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:37
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ROJO posted:If the stud is replaced with two studs on either side of the new sub panel (assuming the panel is 14.5"), why would he need a header? If anything it would add to the support of the top plate compared to the current setup. The entire wall isn't open top to bottom, so two new studs can't be installed, but a header can. There's a lot of ways to reframe the wall for this purpose, but given the existing extent of the demolition the installation of a header is probably the easiest. My comment mostly advocates that the op ensure that the handyman is making a deliberate decision (whatever that decision is), as opposed to just sticking some wood in there and calling it a day.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:45
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I need a new pressure switch and other random well equipment as well as some big blue filter housings (or off-brand equivalent) that doesn’t cost a million dollars each. Any goons on well water have a preferred online store?
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Dec 30, 2020 20:19
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The little fuzzy purple strips that keep the "motorhead" on my Dyson from scraping up my floors have worn off. Now, it just scrapes up my floors. What would be a good something to replace them with? caution: gross vacuum cleaner pic 
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Dec 30, 2020 20:36
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Is this an "E17" lightbulb?  I have tried to do the research but I have no idea about lightbulbs but the previous owner of this house decided that none of the fixtures should use the normal loving base that all lightbulbs in my life up until this point used. I would really appreciate a link to a lightbulb disambiguation site with measurements if y'all know of any, because this is one of literally six fixtures in this house with nonsense bulbs (and of course none of them match this one). Here's a shot of the base, but I'm not sure if it useful. Googling the words on it just indicated that "this is probably a light bulb base" and not anything about size. 
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Dec 30, 2020 20:48
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ROJO posted:If the stud is replaced with two studs on either side of the new sub panel (assuming the panel is 14.5"), why would he need a header? If anything it would add to the support of the top plate compared to the current setup. With the age of that house there's a good chance that's balloon framed, or at least not framed to modern conventions, which is why it really needs someone to look at it.
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Dec 30, 2020 22:03
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:The little fuzzy purple strips that keep the "motorhead" on my Dyson from scraping up my floors have worn off. Now, it just scrapes up my floors. What would be a good something to replace them with? The Dyson website has a lot of replacement brush bars, but if that or their customer service can’t help, or you don’t wanna get a whole new officially licensed sole plate or whatever, you could try ... stick on brush weatherstripping? Not sure on the height of the pile on the dyson, but I think you can get weatherstripping that’s a quarter inch tall and above. Also, not really sure how that part fits into the sole plate, but maybe stick on furniture sliders if you can find the right shape? The official dyson part will probably perform the best, cause weatherstripping might not be able to seal the plate against the floor for max suction? But it would probably work to an extent. edit: you’re talking about the stationary purple strip A right? Not the rotating brush B? Sorry for unintentionally drawing a dumb face on this pic. If it’s the rotating part, I would not gently caress with a high RPM moving part like that and would just get an official replacement. 
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Dec 31, 2020 00:04
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:The little fuzzy purple strips that keep the "motorhead" on my Dyson from scraping up my floors have worn off. Now, it just scrapes up my floors. What would be a good something to replace them with? Order a beater bar. On most vacuums, they're a wear part. Order a couple belts while you're at it.
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Dec 31, 2020 01:43
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Building supply place is telling me that triple pane windows are now a code requirement in Ontario as of Jan 1st, which I can't imagine is true. I'm sure that there is a minimum insulation factor that has to be met, and triple pane is an easy way to get it. Now if there is a certain number that can be met with double pane low E windows I can have nearly as much insulation while saving thousands. Anyone in the know? I'm phone posting so an exhaustive search for the answer is exhausting. P.s. is strapping between foam insulation and vinyl siding now code as well?
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Jan 1, 2021 19:01
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Blistex posted:Building supply place is telling me that triple pane windows are now a code requirement in Ontario as of Jan 1st, which I can't imagine is true. I'm sure that there is a minimum insulation factor that has to be met, and triple pane is an easy way to get it. Looks like Ontario specifies window thermal performance as a u-factor (pretty typical), but specifically the SI u-factor not the imperial u-factor. So you've got to look at the units - any data in Btu/ft2 is not right, you are looking for w/m2 (there's more to the unit for u-factor, but that difference alone will let you know whether you're looking at SI or imperial data). I'm not familiar with Ontario's building code so I don't want to point you at a specific document, since I may be looking at the wrong one, but the code I pulled up has a u-factor of either 2.0 or 1.7 depending on what design temperature you're specifying for. There is reference to another supplemental document that overrides though, so don't assume I'm giving you the right u factor here, you need to look it up yourself/ask your vendor to help.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:41
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Tezer posted:Looks like Ontario specifies window thermal performance as a u-factor (pretty typical), but specifically the SI u-factor not the imperial u-factor. So you've got to look at the units - any data in Btu/ft2 is not right, you are looking for w/m2 (there's more to the unit for u-factor, but that difference alone will let you know whether you're looking at SI or imperial data). Like a balloon, and... something bad happens!
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Jan 2, 2021 01:42
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I hooked up my washer and water just instantly pours into the drum nonstop. This is top-loading Whirlpool that I got from a salvage place. Is it just shot or can it be fixed?
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Jan 2, 2021 04:18
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Christ that could be anything. Especially without more details, such as year model and serial number
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Jan 2, 2021 04:20
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Christoph posted:I hooked up my washer and water just instantly pours into the drum nonstop. This is top-loading Whirlpool that I got from a salvage place. Is it just shot or can it be fixed? It's probably the fill valve and without more information who knows. If you can return it do that.
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Jan 2, 2021 04:30
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Thanks! Turns out it has like 3 other annoying problems so it's out. Also, while installing it, one of the wall spigots (the hot water) is now leaking. It's one of the old fashioned ones. If anyone could point me to a simple guide on how to fix it I'd be very appreciative. Though I suppose step one is finding the shut off valve (just bought the house so I'm not yet familiar with it)  (I put the hose down the drain to make sure it didn't end up dripping over the side) Right after this picture was taken I accidentally locked myself out and had to kick in the door. It's been a fun year so far.
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Jan 2, 2021 06:05
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Christoph posted:Thanks! Turns out it has like 3 other annoying problems so it's out. I don't know the fix/guide for a permanent fix, this is the cheap part I bought to stop the leak at the source (the spigot/valve) when I was in between washing machines (both worked no problem with the leaky spigot): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-3-4-in-Threaded-Hose-Caps-2-Pack-27902/100659301 The correct fix is probably replacing the spigot with a new one but with the old rear end looking age right there you might not be able to unscrew it and that's when the fun and multiple pipes being replaced starts.
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Jan 2, 2021 06:44
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Christoph posted:Thanks! Turns out it has like 3 other annoying problems so it's out. Minute three in this video. Be aware you might break your valve and have to replace it doing this.
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Jan 2, 2021 07:27
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We had a power outage at our place, and when the utility provider said they fixed it, our lights were very dim, and the major appliances weren't functioning. After cycling every breaker on or panel (at the recommendation of my dad) nothing changed, so I called the provider, and 8 hours later I have power. Yay. Problem is, the lights are all now brighter in every fixture, except the ones that have LED bulbs, than they have been the last few years. The utility people on the phone said something about one leg probably having been out (before they actually showed up), and I conceptually understand how two phase wiring is a thing, but I'm not sure how this would mean that all the lights are now brighter. I don't have a multimeter, nor do I have readings from one before the outage, but I'd like some opinions from more knowledgeable people that my house isn't about to burn down with my wife and I in it. I will be calling an electrician in the morning, unless otherwise Would the utility company fixing a loose connection (or whatever they did) cause my lights to be brighter than they have been in a few years, or will I be waking up to my smoke alarms going off? Imasalmon fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 08:47
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Asking for a friend: is it against code for a bathroom door to open into the adjoining bedroom and not into the bathroom? In Canada if that matters. The door currently hits the door to the shower or something undesirable like that. Thanks.
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Jan 2, 2021 15:04
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