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Soylent Yellow posted:I thought the Makita track profile was supposed to be just slightly different to the festool profile -close enough, but not perfect? The profiles are essentially identical, the only difference is the Makita track has a tiny little groove the Festool tracks don't. There's a small difference between any track, which is why the saws always have little adjusters to take up slack. You can move the saw between two identical Festool tracks and they'll be a tiny bit different. IMO the way to go is the Makita track saw and Festool tracks. Makita tracks are okay, but hard to get ones that haven't been slightly damaged in shipping. The ones I had (lots, because I kept returning them to try and get a straight track) were also weirdly cupped. Festool tracks are shipped in a bigass crate and come in more convenient sizes. The 55" tracks most saws come with are barely large enough to crosscut a 4" sheet, and you need to set the blade depth really deep to actually reach the ends of the cut. 75" Festool track is a wonderful size, and a shorter track is also super handy for small crosscuts.
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Jan 1, 2021 17:32
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What are the advantages of a brace over an electric drill? Are there things braces can do that electric drills can't? I see Schwarz using both and I'm trying to understand why
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Jan 1, 2021 18:44
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Bloody posted:Are there things braces can do that electric drills can't? give you a good upper body workout. you even brace bro? also: apocalypse proof
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Jan 1, 2021 18:48
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Bloody posted:What are the advantages of a brace over an electric drill? Are there things braces can do that electric drills can't? I see Schwarz using both and I'm trying to understand why A good electrical drill with torque settings can do everything a brace can but a brace gives you a lot of control and safety. Personally I wouldn't use a brace with anything but very sharp auger style bits because an electric drill does so much better. Edit: My brace actually broke and I haven't bothered to repair it because it doesn't really buy me very much. I'll fix it eventually but my dewalt cordless has it covered.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:50
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Here's an article Schwarz wrote on the subject describing why. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/chris-schwarz-blog/the-essential-brace-bit/ I have a few braces and bits but I don't really drill large holes for anything I do have an egg beater style hand drill that I use all the time for tiny holes. It's too easy to blow right through the face of something with a small drill bit the hand drill offers a lot more fine control.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:53
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Thumposaurus posted:Here's an article Schwarz wrote on the subject describing why. Yup. I bought an eggbeater drill for fine control. The eggbeater drill and the brace and bit are also good for letting your kids use when they're too little for power tools.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:04
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First Actual Real Project Complete (that isn't a picture frame)
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Jan 1, 2021 19:38
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I've been working on flattening an old Stanley No.5 and I've got it mostly done except for a small amount around the mouth that is a tad bit low still. That part should be flattened in line with the rest of the sole shouldn't it?
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Jan 1, 2021 19:42
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hitze posted:First Actual Real Project Complete (that isn't a picture frame) Nice. How are the drawers done?
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Jan 1, 2021 19:45
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Thumposaurus posted:I've been working on flattening an old Stanley No.5 and I've got it mostly done except for a small amount around the mouth that is a tad bit low still. Ideally, yeah, the whole thing will be entirely flush, though a bit of a hollow in the sole behind the mouth is pretty common, and generally won't hurt anything. Are you flattening with the whole plane assembled? Once thing I found out the hard way (and research confirmed later) is that the body will flex a bit; how much depends on whether you have the iron in, how hard the frog is cranked down, ambient temperature, and even your particular grip on the handles. If you're not flattening with it completely assembled and blade backed off, you might take a minute to do that and recheck flatness before grinding off a bunch more metal.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:09
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Most videos etc. on fettling and tuning and flattening a plane will tell you A) that you need to do it and B) that a bit of a dip behind the mouth is OK. I'll tell you that a plane does not, in fact, need to be as flat as people insist, and that for 99.9% of the work you'll do. Also Suntan Boy posted:Are you flattening with the whole plane assembled? Once thing I found out the hard way (and research confirmed later) is that the body will flex a bit; how much depends on whether you have the iron in, how hard the frog is cranked down, ambient temperature, and even your particular grip on the handles. If you're not flattening with it completely assembled and blade backed off, you might take a minute to do that and recheck flatness before grinding off a bunch more metal. I'm interested in your research, because https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAOUxnni3c8 what I've seen is nah. I'm with this guy. The geometry of the cutting edge matters most. If the sole of the plane is more or less flat and free of corrosion, it will function very very well. e. I think it's fine to re-test as you suggested, of course. What I'm saying is that for most people and most planes, they'll find no difference. Some planes may have unusual geometry, frog mechanism, or maybe really cheap planes with plate steel rather than cast iron soles flex more. It's not hard to check. I just don't want to tell someone who has already flattened a plane unassembled that they've done it wrong, and doing it unassembled may be more comfortable especially for big heavy planes, so yeah not a big deal. That video I linked does make a good point that I rarely see mentioned, though, which is that the plane iron should not be in contact with the machined back edge of the throat, and that's what causes cracks behind the throat. Great tip. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 22:02
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The No 5 isn't really a precision instrument. Wherever you're at is likely good enough.
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Jan 1, 2021 22:03
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I think I've got it about as flat as it needs to be. I gotta get the frog set up now. The blade and cap iron I think are good enough but I can't get a good flat shaving if I go on the corner off the board I can get a nice shaving but putting it flat on a board it just skates across no matter how I have the blade adjusted. I probably have something adjusted wrong.
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Jan 1, 2021 23:03
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Stultus Maximus posted:Nice. How are the drawers done? I was trying to keep them hidden hahaha. I used the "Quarter Quarter Quarter" system for the drawers. They didn't come out amazing, but I think that's partially cause my dado set couldn't hit 1/4" on the money it was always bigger 🤷 Definitely learned a couple things with this flatfile for next time. 
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Jan 1, 2021 23:06
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Bloody posted:What are the advantages of a brace over an electric drill? Are there things braces can do that electric drills can't? I see Schwarz using both and I'm trying to understand why They don't hurt my ears or disturb anyone else in the apartment, and are pretty much as fast since I'm not drilling 100 holes an hour. It's a huge pleasure to be able to work in silence. Oh yeah, and I found a whole set of auger bits less one for 25$ at a village antique shop. Do that, too.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:35
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Discernibly Turgid posted:Meow: what is that you have serving as an ersatz splitter? It took me a minute but I assume you mean tablesaw splitter? It's a home built zero clearance insert with a piece of wood sized to match the kerf. Got the idea from Frank Howarth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNXuYlwI8N0 GEMorris posted:Deets, what did you go with? I went with a CWI Scorpion 12" J/P, seems to be a clone of the Jet one and likely many others, but it's readily available here in Canada. I was looking at the Hammer ones for a bit, but the price difference was enough that I can pull a trigger on a bandsaw when it's available.
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Jan 2, 2021 01:18
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Ok so I'm in the final stages of my live-edge low bookshelf- it has a bottom shelf, middle shelf, and top shelf. The lower shelves are dadoed in to the vertical pieces, and the top is a butt joint reinforced with hidden dowels. I'm preparing for final glue-up, and by my calculation I should probably have 8 clamps (2 per horizontal shelf, 2 per corner on the vertical), and I can probably do it with 6, but I only have 5 bar clamps that are going to be long enough to be of any use. The whole thing is roughly 30 wide by 36 high. So here's my question - I'm going to bust out my 3d printed cam clamps for the first time on this project, but they don't have as much CLAMPING PRESSURE as proper clamps. Where in the glue up of a shelf like this am I best able to sacrifice clamping pressure? I also have variously stronger and weaker clamps among my proper bar clamps - any thoughts about where I should put my strongest clamps? e. I didn't think about using ratchet straps to clamp until I saw it on youtube so that's what I'm going to do. CommonShore fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 04:46
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I built a bed! We recently completed a guesthouse/crafting space and then the pandemic hit so it became an office, but with some time off work, I was able to clear out the space and finally use the rockler kit I had purchased a year ago. Went with a shop-grade maple plywood, luckily had access to a shop with the space to do all the cuts and finishing.  Lay it all out  Start screwing things together  Screw more things together  Find the part of the instructions where you need a forstner bit, but don’t own one. Proceed to make something that’ll work with the Dremel  Keep assembling  Mark the stud bay that has all the electrical in it so you don’t kill yourself. Also realize the wall is off vertical by over an inch, mutter something about this is bullshit in new construction  Realize you don’t own dividers to scribe it, hack something together.  It is complete  And it works. 
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Jan 2, 2021 04:48
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Spotted in TFR:Dip Viscous posted:A former co-worker of mine makes very nice furniture these days for a living, and he told me that he has to woodburn giant Qs into a pretty alarming number of table surfaces. Does this guy have special clientele or have the thread professionals seen this as well?
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Jan 2, 2021 16:38
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I don't get it but I'm immediately suspect.
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Jan 2, 2021 18:32
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Here's my first attempt at turning a bowl. I'm pretty sure it's bird cherry. The tealight holder on the left was an offcut from a standard agricultural fencepost I tried just to see if anything could be done with it. Way too soft and wide grained to do anything intricate with, but passable after some serious sanding.
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Jan 2, 2021 19:27
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How do we feel about free format tool walls? I don't subscribe to the rigors of French cleats or pegboard.
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Jan 3, 2021 01:41
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Platystemon posted:Spotted in TFR: Not happened to me yet, but I've never been asked to put initials on much of anything except a banjo  NomNomNom posted:How do we feel about free format tool walls?
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Jan 3, 2021 01:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
This is my garage/workshop goal when I get it built.
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Jan 3, 2021 02:01
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NomNomNom posted:How do we feel about free format tool walls? Looks cool, not for me? I appreciate the Adam Savage first order retrieval system, but I like my drawers. They work well with my brain.
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Jan 3, 2021 02:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:They are my fav, especially if you trace the outline of each tool in sharpie on the wall so anyone can tell what goes where and you can instantly tell what is missing. I've never seen a shop with wall tracings like that in person, but they work very well during multi-step jobs. If you need to be concentrating on the task it's really nice to know that wrench or whatever is right there in the wrench shaped outline on your drop cloth. Having that level of confidence with all your tools sounds awesome.
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Jan 3, 2021 03:18
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Next level would be having all your tools fit into conformal recessed spots on your wall. Think blue rigid insulation covered in red velvet. Every time you reach for that combo square it's like opening up the good silverware.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:10
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Olothreutes posted:I've never seen a shop with wall tracings like that in person, but they work very well during multi-step jobs. If you need to be concentrating on the task it's really nice to know that wrench or whatever is right there in the wrench shaped outline on your drop cloth. Having that level of confidence with all your tools sounds awesome. My old boss did it and it was great. I did it with my yard tools and it’s great, but my shop tools are scattered between 3 sets of shelves and a mechanics tool chest and it’s bad and ISWEARTOGOD I’m really gonna build myself a proper tool cabinet this year. What’s everyone’s project/woodworking plans/goals for the year? Aside from a tool cabinet, I need to finish the chairs for my chair thread and and I want to mess around with hammer veneering and get better at turning.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:16
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A cutting board to gift to some friends who seem to have absolutely no cutting boards (???) Maybe an anarchists workbench if my current shed bench (heavy top on a pair of lovely sawhorses) is untenable. Also generally get my shed further under control Frame a print or two or ten Some stuff from anarchists design book, saw benches at a minimum because I need some Hopefully a bookcase and a desk but we'll see how the shedshop goes, might be tight for larger stuff
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Jan 3, 2021 04:30
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Gonna take some more baby steps and learn some techniques. Planning on a tea box for myself (and my mom if it turns out nice) and saw some plans for a neat pencil box with a hinge top and drawer that I'm thinking of making a set for my niblings. Waiting on covid to cool down a little so I can head over to my parents and pick up some tools from their garage. I feel bad taking some of my dad's tools, but he's not physically able to use them anymore so they're just sitting there.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:35
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I've been doing pegboard with 3d printed hooks. Each board has a primary purpose - this is the SAW board, this is the MEASURING TOOLS board, etc - and I fit everything else in around the main ones.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:38
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I'm too lazy to repost this content so here is what I worked on today: https://twitter.com/gemorris/status/1345572741055983619?s=20 As for goals this year? Staked chairs. Starting with a shoe-changing bench in SYP right now.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What’s everyone’s project/woodworking plans/goals for the year? Aside from a tool cabinet, I need to finish the chairs for my chair thread and and I want to mess around with hammer veneering and get better at turning. I have to build 4 of these:  They're intended for my ex's ceramics shows and have to be easy to setup and take down, as she's often setting up on her own. Originally my plan was a hinge at the top, so that it could collapse when you took the shelves off, but it's also 4' wide (although it isn't in that drawing!), so it'll be a bit awkward to handle. That is, however, still currently the best plan, as screwing in each cross bar (even with threaded inserts, etc) would be a real pain when you have to do 4 of them. Shelves are going to have indents for the crossbars and some long magnets to hold them in place. Still not decided on wood yet. Probably just buy some clear douglas fir, as it's got a good compromise of weight/strength, although it picks up dings easily. These will get beaten up, so maple would be awesome, but I'm not sure it's worth the weight/cost...especially as they'll most likely just get a gelstain for finishing.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:47
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I want to finish up the slab coffee table I started like a year ago, which is still waiting for me to figure out an approach for the legs that I can handle. I'd like to try to make a fancy front door but I suspect that's beyond my skills currently.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:48
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I'm doing a set of 3 big heavy charcuterie boards, and then I'm going to take an old singer sewing machine frame, clean it up, and put a slab top on it and then maybe sell it to get rid of the thing.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:52
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I want to learn to make a bookshelf that I'm ok having other people look at. I have some old oak chairs that need a lot of help that I want to repair. Maybe make a jewelry box for my wife and learn to make picture frames so we don't spend a billion dollars having things framed for us.Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My old boss did it and it was great. I did it with my yard tools and it’s great, but my shop tools are scattered between 3 sets of shelves and a mechanics tool chest and it’s bad and ISWEARTOGOD I’m really gonna build myself a proper tool cabinet this year. Eventually I'll get a proper shop space set up. Some of my tools are in a drawer in the kitchen, some in the shed, others in the garage in various boxes, etc. It's the worst. I actually first saw the tool outline trick while taking apart a nuclear reactor. Knowing where the tools went was nice because the rest of it was absolutely nerve wracking.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What’s everyone’s project/woodworking plans/goals for the year? Aside from a tool cabinet, I need to finish the chairs for my chair thread and and I want to mess around with hammer veneering and get better at turning.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:06
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CommonShore posted:I'm doing a set of 3 big heavy charcuterie boards, and then I'm going to take an old singer sewing machine frame, clean it up, and put a slab top on it and then maybe sell it to get rid of the thing. The wood that killed the ivory bill.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:10
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Finish my english workbench, its about half done right now (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/knockdown-english-workbench/) Improve my general shop storage situation Convert my kitchen cabinets to glass panel Add trim to several windows Change other trim to match Build a cloths drying rack Build a swinging TV mounting arm Build a couple picture frames Make a shitload of wall mount shelves These are just the projects that involve wood specifically... Speaking of trim like molding, window casings, etc. what's a good finish to use? Just standard polyurethane? Some heavy duty flooring finish so I can do one coat? Because I pretty much have to work in a 1 car garage I'd rather avoid spray setups if possible, but I've heard HVLP's are pretty easy and clean to use. Between the various bits of trim I want to add/swap, plus the large amount of shelving, I have alot of surface to finish so I'm trying to find something efficient.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:18
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| # ? May 30, 2024 21:16 |
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Hoping to have my new acquisition through the restoration process by the end of January. I just finally got my hands on a sensibly priced Unisaw. It’s a 1951 and I am the third owner. It’s in very nice shape mechanically (the previous owner was kind enough to let me run a nickel test [which it passed without so much as a shimmy] which he followed up with a few veneer rips) but there’s a tad more runout than I care for, and the physical condition is extremely solid but with room for improvement on the cosmetics. I’m not turning into a show horse, but it already makes me happy just seeing it. I bought the saw with my share of the chump change that remained after my useless dad’s dumb rear end finally bought the farm. I’ve wanted one for a long time, but this purchase is a bit symbolic, as it seemed like a good bookend to my dealings with him, bringing something into my life that is, first and foremost, reliable and steady. Goodness knows he never so much as swung a hammer or intentionally helped anyone during his lifetime, so this saw already counts as a massive upgrade from a parenting perspective. My 3 year old keeps asking if the saw can cut the toughest things she can think of AND she told me she knows she won’t be trying it out for years to come, so she’s already learned more from me than I did from him. Besides, she’s already demonstrated excellent speed control with my drill/drivers and good judgement with a socket wrench. Kaiser: love your chair thread. You do beautiful work and you do it in a way that seems to speak to more people than just me.
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Jan 3, 2021 06:17
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