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GEMorris posted:It hasn't. The self-owned cordless tool brands are basically: Makita, and Hilti. Festool is actually part of TTS Tooltechnic Systems AG & Co. KG which has Festool, Tanos, Narex, Sawstop, and Shaper Tools under its umbrella.
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Jan 4, 2021 19:41
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JEEVES420 posted:Festool is actually part of TTS Tooltechnic Systems AG & Co. KG which has Festool, Tanos, Narex, Sawstop, and Shaper Tools under its umbrella. Whoops, looks like that they have been separate fot a long while and I had bad info.
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Jan 4, 2021 19:48
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If you can afford it by Makita over Ryobi. They're just better. Ryobi aren't bad, but Makita are better.
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Jan 4, 2021 19:58
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serious gaylord posted:If you can afford it by Makita over Ryobi. They're just better. Maybe it's nonsensical thinking, but I don't believe I've ever seen Ryobi at a tool rental, whereas Makita rentals are super common. I have to imagine there's a reason for that, and I suspect it's the durability of the tool under the tender care of your typical jobsite gorilla.
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Jan 4, 2021 20:02
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serious gaylord posted:If you can afford it by Makita over Ryobi. They're just better. And I really can't stress this enough: GEMorris posted:I'd still bias toward Makita for a woodworker because Cordless Track Saw That Uses Festool Profile Rails If track saws aren't your bag then whatever but this is something I wish I had considered.
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Jan 4, 2021 20:14
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Makita is on the upper end of what I'd be willing to pay. I have a chunk of cash coming my way soon, and I'm not desperate to get something in hand right now (I have a perfectly good corded drill) so I'll wait until I find a sale either that brings Makita down a bit, or makes Ryobi so ridiculously cheap that I can't pass up. And I'll make sure that I get brushless either way. Super helpful everybody. Ok next question. I'm working on this live edge shelf right now and I have one obstacle left before glue-up and finishing: there as a chunk on the top piece where I had to remove some rotten wood (don't ask: I know - that's not relevant and it comes with the territory of $40/slab hardwood). My plan was to fill this bit in ( maybe 4 cubic inches?) with some epoxy for effect. I just priced out the epoxy I would need and  not worth it for this project.What are my other options for filling this hole? It's roughly J-shaped, elongated, in a 1-inch plank, on the top of the shelf and as I said probably around 4 cubic inches total volume, maybe 3/4 inch wide and 5 inches long. I'm now thinking about chiseling and routing this about 1/4 inch down and gluing in a panel, maybe of contrasting wood for effect. Are there other things I can do?
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Jan 4, 2021 20:40
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Do you have a photo? Could you do a dovetail bowtie to stabilize it and make it a feature?
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Jan 4, 2021 20:46
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$20 bucks of epoxy is too much?
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Jan 4, 2021 20:52
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if it's half the cost of the slab in epoxy then perhaps
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Jan 4, 2021 20:55
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Is there a reason epoxy costs so much? I've always thought that it seemed to be approaching printer ink territory.
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Jan 4, 2021 21:09
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NomNomNom posted:$20 bucks of epoxy is too much? The cheapest I've found near me for anything that has the pour depth I want is $90 for 750 ml. I've decided just to use this as an opportunity to learn a new skill. I'll go get a picture but it'll be a separate post. CommonShore fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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Jan 4, 2021 21:16
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 I've chiseled and wired brushed at it til only solid wood remains.
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Jan 4, 2021 21:22
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Blistex posted:Is there a reason epoxy costs so much? I've always thought that it seemed to be approaching printer ink territory. Expensive compared to what? Equivalent volume of plastic or glass or something? Best comparison I can think of is plastic, and plastic can't do what epoxy can... and plastic is actually pretty expensive by volume\sq ft
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Jan 4, 2021 21:25
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CommonShore posted:
If you're not going to epoxy it, then your best bet is probably to cut it out and replace it with a contrasting piece of wood. It feels a little weird to me to do a patch like that near an edge though, just speaking aesthetically. You could also use a hand plane at an angle to just cut out that section and make it look like some wane at the edge of the board. That might be a nicer look. I've done similar with some small pieces, e.g.  Sorry for the bad photo / dirty surface, this is the rear edge of my desk.
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Jan 4, 2021 21:51
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bobua posted:Expensive compared to what? Equivalent volume of plastic or glass or something? Best comparison I can think of is plastic, and plastic can't do what epoxy can... and plastic is actually pretty expensive by volume\sq ft Whenever I look at epoxy on the shelf it's usually more per litre than Glenfiddich. Then again. . . 
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Jan 4, 2021 22:06
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Having just bought like a gallon of West system epoxy, I agree that epoxy is too drat high. I guess it’s hard to make? I have no idea what or how epoxy is made of and I’m pretty sure I don’t want to know. Presumably lots of goodies like formaldehyde and cyanide?
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Jan 4, 2021 22:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Having just bought like a gallon of West system epoxy, I agree that epoxy is too drat high. I guess it’s hard to make? I have no idea what or how epoxy is made of and I’m pretty sure I don’t want to know. Presumably lots of goodies like formaldehyde and cyanide? Well, I created a thread with a huge wall o text and links all about how the different types are made and uses...but no pretty pictures or TLDR version so it died without a discussion  The process of making the 2 parts (resin and hardener) is pretty complex and can be tainted easily. There was a huge supply yellowed last year that forced several providers to look for new suppliers. Then there is the market share side of it as its used in creating sheets of plexi which, as we all know, skyrocketed this past year. Then there is the maker movement that companies have capitalized on. West is all in on the river table people on Youtube and the like and Alumilite is highly regarded as the turners choice. Both of which keep the cost up. When you can, try to purchase direct from their websites to avoid the local markup. In all honesty though When you can pour a slab of 2" thick colored or clear, hard as a rock, heat resistant, perfectly smooth "glass" the price is really not bad at all. A nice tip I learned along the way is to use Minwax wood hardener (surface stabilizer) on knots or charred wood first to seep in and harden up the wood before pouring the more expensive, thicker setting resin. This is great on stuff you can't fit in a vacuum chamber to get the trapped air out of the pours under thicker resin.
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Jan 4, 2021 22:50
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CommonShore posted:
This looks really cool and would be a shame to not epoxy imo.
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Jan 4, 2021 22:51
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GEMorris posted:This looks really cool and would be a shame to not epoxy imo. I know  that's why I had the idea in the first place. I realized when I was just puttering around that's the underside of the shelf (determined by the shape of the live edge; it's the back top corner of a low shelf, too, so it'll be near the wall) so the top looks a bit different, but similarly interesting.IDK I'm still thinking about it. Both sides of the discussion have given me something to think about. On one hand I found a very rough red oak shard on my bits and scraps shelf with a very tight grain that I was able to cut and plane down to a usable piece. But I phoned another store and they said they'll have some pourable epoxy coming in this week that'll cost me a little less, but still enough to make me go "ouch." Sigh. I just want to get this project finished and aside from a tiny bit of sanding this is my last puzzle before glue up.
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Jan 4, 2021 23:22
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I’m trying to smooth out some rough cut cedar but my orbital sander keeps leaving little squiggly trails. Is there a way to prevent that, or is it just inherent to the softness of cedar?
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Jan 4, 2021 23:24
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JEEVES420 posted:Well, I created a thread with a huge wall o text and links all about how the different types are made and uses...but no pretty pictures or TLDR version so it died without a discussion Do you have a link to that thread? I must have missed it-I am occasionally a shameful bookmark browser
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Jan 4, 2021 23:28
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edit: ^^https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3905563^^Bouillon Rube posted:I’m trying to smooth out some rough cut cedar but my orbital sander keeps leaving little squiggly trails. Is there a way to prevent that, or is it just inherent to the softness of cedar? Keep going up in grit till they go away. Also don't press so hard. JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 02:13
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CommonShore posted:The cheapest I've found near me for anything that has the pour depth I want is $90 for 750 ml. I've decided just to use this as an opportunity to learn a new skill. I assume this is a local market thing? I filled a big void in my dining table (along with many smaller cracks or holes) with this: https://promarinesupplies.com/crystal-clear-bar-table-top-epoxy-resin-coating-for-wood-tabletop/. I used a small amount of Aluminite (something like 2 drops per 500mL) blue color tint, which worked out very well.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:54
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heffray posted:I assume this is a local market thing? I filled a big void in my dining table (along with many smaller cracks or holes) with this: https://promarinesupplies.com/crystal-clear-bar-table-top-epoxy-resin-coating-for-wood-tabletop/. I used a small amount of Aluminite (something like 2 drops per 500mL) blue color tint, which worked out very well. That's exactly what I want to do, and that's the price range I'd be willing to pay. Yes, this is absolutely a local market thing. Maybe I'll try a lower pour depth epoxy and save some money...
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Jan 5, 2021 03:43
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Bouillon Rube posted:I’m trying to smooth out some rough cut cedar but my orbital sander keeps leaving little squiggly trails. Is there a way to prevent that, or is it just inherent to the softness of cedar? You don't need to press down hard with orbitals. The marks should all be gone at 120 grit.
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Jan 5, 2021 13:50
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I think the issue might be that I’m using a cheap 1-amp Harbor Freight detail sander (one of the mouse-shaped ones)- with courser sandpaper you really have to give it a little pressure to get it to do anything. Would this one be an upgrade? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-120-Volt-2-5-Amps-Random-Orbital-Sander/3764681
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Jan 5, 2021 17:18
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Bouillon Rube posted:I think the issue might be that I’m using a cheap 1-amp Harbor Freight detail sander (one of the mouse-shaped ones)- with courser sandpaper you really have to give it a little pressure to get it to do anything. Yes. Borat brand sander and paper guaranteet to leave swirrels or money back!
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Jan 5, 2021 17:33
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It is surprising how well sanders take off material with little to no pressure. If you have to dig in then there is a problem, either the wrong tool or the wrong paper. Use a Pencil or chalk to mark all over the surface that way you can visually see where you are sanding. Also never use the edge of an orbital to dig into a spot. You will only create a divot and gently caress up your pad.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:54
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JEEVES420 posted:Also never use the edge of an orbital to dig into a spot. You will only create a divot and gently caress up your pad. Oh did I ever learn this the hard way. There's still a slight divot in that maple shelf board, but thankfully no one will ever see it.
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Jan 5, 2021 18:14
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CommonShore posted:That's exactly what I want to do, and that's the price range I'd be willing to pay. Yes, this is absolutely a local market thing. Maybe I'll try a lower pour depth epoxy and save some money... Honestly, a lower pour depth is fine if you're willing to be patient. The thickset stuff looks lovely but I definitely wanted to go the cheaper route for my first attempts (at a river) and some knot filling. Toast fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 18:35
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Generalissimo
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Never got around to posting in results of my first experience using wood dye. Got some great advice in this thread a few months ago. Bought a Menards baltic birch butcher block countertop and wanted to darken it a bit without losing any figure in the wood. Think it was Kasier Schnitzel that recommended wood dye and gave some excellent links for me to watch and read. Super thanks! Got the birch to go from boring almost white to this:  Color is pretty uniform across the whole thing, but the figure pops out a lot now. Looks great! Had to pull the cruddy clay the mfr used to fill in the holes and gaps and replace with some clear resin, but it turned out real nice looking and after some poly its been working great as a desk for a while now. No pics of it in use, as I'm still working on cable management and its just downright embarrassing how messy it is. But this is what it looked like once I got done attaching some standing desk legs to it. 
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Jan 5, 2021 20:11
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Toast posted:Honestly, a lower pour depth is fine if you're willing to be patient. The thickset stuff looks lovely but I definitely wanted to go the cheaper route for my first attempts (at a river) and some knot filling. Yeah I never use deep pour stuff as its usually an eye gouging price. Just do lots of little pours. Sure it takes longer but I don't think any of us are professionals on time limits here. Also I got the Kreg concealed hinge jig today since I've got about 20 doors to do and I've got to say I'm not that impressed with it. The bit struggles to deal with basic MDF. Not sure if its defective or just not very good. Will give them a message and see what they say since the other Kreg stuff has usually been very good. The bit is proprietry so its not like I can swap it out for a 35mm Forstner bit either since it wouldnt work correctly. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 20:35
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serious gaylord posted:Yeah I never use deep pour stuff as its usually an eye gouging price. Just do lots of little pours. Sure it takes longer but I don't think any of us are professionals on time limits here. MDF is vile and hard, OP, and will even dull carbide tipped tools. But, that's what I'd go with.
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Jan 6, 2021 02:21
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serious gaylord posted:Yeah I never use deep pour stuff as its usually an eye gouging price. Just do lots of little pours. Sure it takes longer but I don't think any of us are professionals on time limits here. Oh so you just do it like 1/4 inch at a time? I didn't realize that was a factor.
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Jan 6, 2021 02:27
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CommonShore posted:Oh so you just do it like 1/4 inch at a time? I didn't realize that was a factor. Bondo is technically epoxy and it's cheap. Why not fill to 1/4" to the top and then go over with your colored epoxy? Or is that what's already been discussed.
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Jan 6, 2021 02:33
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CommonShore posted:Oh so you just do it like 1/4 inch at a time? I didn't realize that was a factor. You can pour it on top of itself and the different levels will not be visible from the top but IS visible from the side. not a problem for void fills but for things like turnings or visible edge tables it is. I have seen people attempt to pour into a mold a 1/4" at a time over a few weeks only to have a nice striped finished piece. If you have a scratched resin top you can pour a very thin layer and hit with a torch to make the scratches disappear, good trick if you have to sand out a hair or dust when the original was curing.
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Jan 6, 2021 02:37
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My old delta miter saw has a pretty hard start, haven't tripped any breakers yet, but annoyingly the saw jumps and sometimes alters the cut I had lined up. Anyone have experience with adding an external soft starter? E.g. https://www.raymondinnovations.com/collections/soft-starters the cheapest unit lists a maximum duty cycle of "20 starts per hour" or 1 cut every 3 minutes. I try to get all my cuts done in a short timeframe (kids, noise, etc) so I have everything marked up beforehand and maybe do ~1 cut per minute, and while the next unit up lists "Unlimited starts per hour" it's fully double the price, and $150 CAD seems like a lot of money for a soft starter. Any others I should look at?
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Jan 6, 2021 02:55
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Mr. Mambold posted:Bondo is technically epoxy and it's cheap. Why not fill to 1/4" to the top and then go over with your colored epoxy? Or is that what's already been discussed. I was hoping to have something approaching transparent or tinted translucent, but I spose that's not necessary. JEEVES420 posted:You can pour it on top of itself and the different levels will not be visible from the top but IS visible from the side. not a problem for void fills but for things like turnings or visible edge tables it is. I have seen people attempt to pour into a mold a 1/4" at a time over a few weeks only to have a nice striped finished piece. If I do this will it maintain some degree of clarity, or will it become opaque? More so I know what to expect at this point.
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Jan 6, 2021 03:19
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JEEVES420 posted:Also never use the edge of an orbital to dig into a spot. You will only create a divot and gently caress up your pad. This needs to be projected into the sky every night or something, along with "don't push down on an orbital sander." They're both a really hard habit to break but holy god they're important. The kinds of things that encourage tipping a RO are precisely the moment to learn to love a scraper or smooth plane.
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Jan 6, 2021 03:20
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e: whoopsie doublepostepalm posted:My old delta miter saw has a pretty hard start, haven't tripped any breakers yet, but annoyingly the saw jumps and sometimes alters the cut I had lined up. However! Soft start module replacements are cheap and somewhat universal if you're comfortable with wiring (and potentially building a little enclosure with a fan or something). They don't ramp nearly as slowly, but it might be enough for ~$10 vs $60 or >$100 https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-371468-Soft-Start-C10Rj/dp/B07DTBTS9D
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Jan 6, 2021 03:41
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