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AFewBricksShy posted:Progress on the bar. I'm at about 98% done. Sanding and re-staining is a shitload of work. It's way easier to darken with pigment than to lighten, but you might look into bleaching agents techniques, unless you're deadset on taking it down. If so, maybe go with a natural clear coat, but better still, do sample pieces first-. serious gaylord posted:The grain on the drawer fronts being horizontal and everything else vertical is the only thing I dislike about that. Idk how many wood grain cabinets and kitchens you've been through where you live, but that is exactly how it's done in the States. Raised panel doors with horizontal grain looks bad too.
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Jan 7, 2021 20:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:Sanding and re-staining is a shitload of work. It's way easier to darken with pigment than to lighten, but you might look into bleaching agents techniques, unless you're deadset on taking it down. If so, maybe go with a natural clear coat, but better still, do sample pieces first-. Sorry I was vague. The drawers are a touch lighter than the doors, so I need to darken the drawer fronts up. However... While installing a glass cleaner into the bar top last night (which required removal of the drawers to access the plumbing) the bottom drawer snapped off right when the grain gets really tight just above the half way point. It just came off in my hand. So I have to glue it back in place, but the overall plan(and why I didn't glue the drawer fronts to the drawer box) is to find a piece of oak that is 14" wide, preferably with some sort of cool graining like the left and middle set of doors, and then make the drawer fronts out of that, like a tryptich.
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Jan 7, 2021 20:56
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I have this old No 6 Stanley that was in a pile of junk of my grandfathers that I'm having trouble with. When it's all sharpened up it works great, but if anything hits the blade hard enough it shift upward relative to the chip breaker. It's been happening repeatedly hitting knots trying to flatten the workbench I'm building (cheap wood) I'm tightening it until the chip breaker bottoms out, and I've got the frog on as tight as possible as well. Is there anything I can do to secure it better?  Block plane in the background for scale. edit: On closer inspection its not a Stanley, but someone replaced the iron itself with a Stanley one. oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Jan 8, 2021 |
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Jan 8, 2021 06:34
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So basically the blade and the chipbreaker are sliding independently even though you've tightened the chipbreaker screw as tight as you can? That's a weird one. Is there a lot of oil between the two? Is the lever cap also tight?
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Jan 8, 2021 06:49
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No oil but the surfaces are a bit pitted. I gave them a wire brushing when I got it but didn't thoroughly derust it. Chipbreaker screw is tight enough to bottom out the chipbreaker on the iron, and I've got the lever cap tight and even tighten the screw more after engaging the lever.
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Jan 8, 2021 07:22
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What lubricant should I be using for my plane sole?
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Jan 8, 2021 14:05
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I just use paraffin wax from the grocery store.
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Jan 8, 2021 14:44
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NomNomNom posted:What lubricant should I be using for my plane sole? I bought one of these kits and I like it alot: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/72928-plane-maintenance-kit?item=50P0201 It's nothing you couldn't assemble separately but I like it all in one place. The protectool wax is definitely overkill but works well. The Autosol metal polish stuff is loving amazing. Those are really the only things I use in the kit. It's nice to have a dedicated towel for the Autosol.
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Jan 8, 2021 15:16
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I'm building a simple workbench to finally have a place where I can actually build other stuff properly (been using sawhorses with plywood on them for far too long.) The legs are 4x4 that I lapped to add (4) 2x4's for the stretchers (top and bottom), with shorter cross pieces for the width. I screwed it all together and everything was square (within a 1/16 anyway). The 30" x 8' plywood I cut for this is also square. Everything measures properly. But when I put the plywood on top of the bench, it's not square. It's off by 1/4-1/2". Any idea how to pull this square before screwing it down? Ratchet straps? (I don't have clamps that are 8' long. I've got some pipe clamps, I've considered going to get some 10' pipe at HD or something.)
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Jan 8, 2021 16:45
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Ratchet straps would probably work. I have a chain and turnbuckle that I used for squaring up walls when doing some construction; something like that would also probably do the job. Just make sure you don't exceed the max load of your strap/chain.
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Jan 8, 2021 17:07
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If all the existing joints are screwed without glue, you can loosen some to make the frame more compliant. The fit of the plywood to the frame is probably more important than the harder to see frame joints. Once compliant, you can screw the plywood and let that connection drive the rest of the bench shape.
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Jan 8, 2021 17:33
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stupid sharpening questions: what grits do I really, no poo poo, definitely need for general-purpose chisels and planes? Do I really have to hone stuff to 15000 grit with honing compound on leather? Can I get by with just a coarse grit and a fine grit? Mirror finishes look lovely, but do they actually make a difference to cutting performance?
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Jan 8, 2021 17:38
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'm building a simple workbench to finally have a place where I can actually build other stuff properly (been using sawhorses with plywood on them for far too long.) You can clamp to clamp if you have the overall length in pipes. If not, GET MORE CLAMPS.
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Jan 8, 2021 17:40
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Bloody posted:stupid sharpening questions: what grits do I really, no poo poo, definitely need for general-purpose chisels and planes? Do I really have to hone stuff to 15000 grit with honing compound on leather? Can I get by with just a coarse grit and a fine grit? Mirror finishes look lovely, but do they actually make a difference to cutting performance? my hanzo chisels must be stropped 1000 strokes before they ever come within a foot of a piece of wood 
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Jan 8, 2021 17:53
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Bloody posted:stupid sharpening questions: what grits do I really, no poo poo, definitely need for general-purpose chisels and planes? Do I really have to hone stuff to 15000 grit with honing compound on leather? Can I get by with just a coarse grit and a fine grit? Mirror finishes look lovely, but do they actually make a difference to cutting performance? I get mine really sharp with just a 400/1000 diamond plate (this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZ57ZVZ/) and a piece of scrap leather with some polishing compound rubbed in (this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076X3LNQ3/)
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Jan 8, 2021 18:01
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Bloody posted:stupid sharpening questions: what grits do I really, no poo poo, definitely need for general-purpose chisels and planes? Do I really have to hone stuff to 15000 grit with honing compound on leather? Can I get by with just a coarse grit and a fine grit? Mirror finishes look lovely, but do they actually make a difference to cutting performance? My personal opinion is that you just need a coarse and fine grit, and anything above 4000-8000 is probably too much and just for show. People brag about being able to shave with their chisel or whatever but that's not what I'd think you want from a chisel edge. You can buy combination stones that are like 1000 grit on one side and 4000 on the other. If you are going to go the stones route make sure you have something like a diamond plate to ensure that your sharpening stone is level, having an uneven sharpening surface is bad. Edge geometry is a big knife nerd thing, the lower the edge angle the sharper it is but it will bend, roll, or chip more easily (depending on metal hardness) than edges with a higher angle. I think I've seen people in here talking about primary and secondary edge angles, which is where you have a low edge angle for the vast majority of the edge but then at the very end you have a higher angle to try and increase the robustness of the edge. I'm sure people in here have more experience sharpening chisels than I do, all my experience is kitchen knives, but a cutting edge is a cutting edge.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:02
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Bloody posted:stupid sharpening questions: what grits do I really, no poo poo, definitely need for general-purpose chisels and planes? Do I really have to hone stuff to 15000 grit with honing compound on leather? Can I get by with just a coarse grit and a fine grit? Mirror finishes look lovely, but do they actually make a difference to cutting performance? 400, 1000, strop with green compound seems to work well enough for me.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:You can clamp to clamp if you have the overall length in pipes. If not, GET MORE CLAMPS. n+1 man. I tried to explain that to my wife and she just sighed at me.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:03
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Olothreutes posted:My personal opinion is that you just need a coarse and fine grit, and anything above 4000-8000 is probably too much and just for show. People brag about being able to shave with their chisel or whatever but that's not what I'd think you want from a chisel edge. My understanding of the idea behind a primary/secondary bevel on a chisel/plane iron is that you grind a "large" bevel to 25 degrees or so, and then grind a microbevel to 30 or so. The microbevel is the only thing you have to hone when you sharpen regularly during regular use, but it takes much less time because there's much less steel to remove. When the microbevel starts to sneak up toward the edge of your primary bevel, you regrind the primary bevel and reestablish a microbevel. But I'm a baby hand tool user and still haven't been able to get my smoother set up to do anything other than gouge and chatter, so I could be totally off base.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:16
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If you have an opportunity to experience a properly sharpened chisel, that's gonna do more for your sharpening game than anything else. A gas station pocket knife can slice a sheet of paper or shave your arm. If you know someone that already knows what they are doing or a local woodworking store or club has a try-out day, get on it. I can put every blade in my garage through my routine and then gently caress up the final strop somehow on one blade and I know it right away when I use it, but it's still crazy sharp.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:30
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I think I need to have someone who knows what they're doing actually stand with me and walk me through some stuff. I'd post here but I think it would take forever to post all the pictures and do all the experimentation I need to actually figure it out. It's on me for trying to figure out how to hand tool during a global pandemic.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:34
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bobua posted:If you have an opportunity to experience a properly sharpened chisel, that's gonna do more for your sharpening game than anything else. A gas station pocket knife can slice a sheet of paper or shave your arm. If you know someone that already knows what they are doing or a local woodworking store or club has a try-out day, get on it. I can put every blade in my garage through my routine and then gently caress up the final strop somehow on one blade and I know it right away when I use it, but it's still crazy sharp. I've been getting better at it and the really sharp chisels have surprised me once or twice, especially the narrower ones which can go way deeper than you're prepared for.
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Jan 8, 2021 18:37
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My favorite part of sharpening is after you do it and use the tool once and go "why the gently caress didn't I sharpen like three hours ago when I started to have doubts?" Every time.
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Jan 8, 2021 19:25
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ColdPie posted:My favorite part of sharpening is after you do it and use the tool once and go "why the gently caress didn't I sharpen like three hours ago when I started to have doubts?"
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Jan 8, 2021 19:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I sharpen lathe tools every hour or three when I'm turning but I literally can't remember the last time I sharpened a chisel or plane iron and that's uhhhhhh probably not a good sign. But how will you know you got a good clean cut the next time you accidentally stab yourself with your chisel? I sharpen them or at least hone them first thing when I pull them out to use them. Chisels are simple and easy, plane irons are annoying because then you have to reseat them and it takes an extra 30 seconds.
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Jan 8, 2021 19:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I sharpen lathe tools every hour or three when I'm turning but I literally can't remember the last time I sharpened a chisel or plane iron and that's uhhhhhh probably not a good sign. When I am turning I hit it every 15 min or so. Just a quick one pass on the grinder that is right next to the lathe. Also why you see a lot of turners with a wall a chisels, they just swap them out as they work.
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Jan 8, 2021 19:49
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There's a reason why "if you're wondering if you need to sharpen, you should've done it 10 minutes ago already" or some variant thereof is a maxim. One that I need to have tattoo'd on the inside of my eyes because I always forget to just take a moment and sharpen the plane instead of forcing it through like I tend to do. ColdPie posted:My favorite part of sharpening is after you do it and use the tool once and go "why the gently caress didn't I sharpen like three hours ago when I started to have doubts?" Also, this.
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Jan 8, 2021 20:53
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When I first got a plane to make shavings, it was the best thing ever right up until I actually did a semi-proper sharpening job and tried again.
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Jan 8, 2021 21:00
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When you go to do that mid-job sharpening, how much of the process do you do? Sometimes if I'm in the middle of a job and I'm furrowing my brow at my chisel I'll just strop it and get back to work, and that's usually decent.
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Jan 8, 2021 21:01
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CommonShore posted:When you go to do that mid-job sharpening, how much of the process do you do? Sometimes if I'm in the middle of a job and I'm furrowing my brow at my chisel I'll just strop it and get back to work, and that's usually decent. I buff stuff with rouge and then green compound a ton, which is basically high-speed stropping. It helps a lot, especially on carving tools, and a well polished edge stays sharp longer to boot. You can buff without removing the chip breaker which means you don’t have to reset the iron too. Unless an edge has been knicked or has a bent over edge I don’t usually grind it, and usually a few swipes on a medium grit oil stone is all that’s needed to get it buffable again. Turning tools I hone with a small fine diamond and buff as needed, and regrind every hour or three, but only because grinding turning tools is easy and they don’t need to be as well honed/polished as planes and chisels.
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Jan 8, 2021 21:40
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CommonShore posted:When you go to do that mid-job sharpening, how much of the process do you do? Sometimes if I'm in the middle of a job and I'm furrowing my brow at my chisel I'll just strop it and get back to work, and that's usually decent. I think chisel steel is pretty soft, all things considered, so chances are if your chisel isn't cutting as well the edge has rolled a bit. You can use something harder than the chisel steel, a ceramic or just more robust steel rod, to hone the edge which is essentially just pushing the rolled parts back into place. It won't remove chips in the edge or extreme rolls though, for those you need a sharpening stone. So hone, then stone. But it's entirely possible that a bench grinder makes easier work of just sharpening it rather than trying to hone anything. I don't own one. Yet.
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Jan 8, 2021 21:54
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Echoing ColdPie's statement. My method for sharpening was partially driven by the minimal space available in my toolchest and partially driven by the fact that I loving hate soaking and flattening waterstones. I use the 15, 5, and .3 micron sandpaper here, which is the really high quality mylar backed stuff. I hated sandpaper sharpening when I first tried it with paper backed sandpaper but I love this stuff. I just slap a small piece of each grit on a granite plate. The 15 micron is just for re-establishing a bevel if there is a bad knick, otherwise when refreshing the blade I stay with the 5 and .3 micron grits https://twitter.com/gemorris/status/1335807806935621633?s=20
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Jan 8, 2021 23:11
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GEMorris posted:Echoing ColdPie's statement. How long does each piece last?
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Jan 8, 2021 23:20
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CommonShore posted:How long does each piece last? That obv depends on frequency of use but the 5 and the .3 will last about two complete sharpening routines (7 bench chisels, 4 plane blades) and the (3-4) refresh sharpening between those sessions (probably 2 plane blades and ~4 chisels). The 15 lasts about half of that (replaced twice as often) but that really depends on how many new bevels I'm establishing or if I'm restoring any tools. I bought the "2 sheets of 15, 5, .3" about three years ago and I'm not even 1/3 through the 5 and the .3 If you are just doing blade refresh/maintenance sharpening the 15 doesn't get used a ton and lasts, but if you are establishing new bevels or repairing big knicks it gets used up much much faster.
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Jan 9, 2021 00:17
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I have this old No 6 Stanley I think there's a chance you have a franken-plane, e.g. not all the parts match. Maybe someone replaced a screw with another screw that is too short or the wrong geometry? Also it may be a stanley/bailey plane even if there are no Stanley markings in the cast iron: use these sites for guidance. https://www.timetestedtools.net/2017/02/05/dating-hand-planes-start-page/ http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ If you disassemble and take pictures I may be able to help. I'm also not totally clear on which screws are "bottoming out" and/or how the frog, iron, chip breaker, and cap are positioned and any of those may be the source of your trouble.
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Jan 9, 2021 00:23
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GEMorris posted:Echoing ColdPie's statement. I am glad to know veritas has added a sandpaper container to their product line.
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Jan 9, 2021 00:58
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My combo unit arrive this week, got it all cleaned up and waxed. Change-over is super easy and the carbide insert head looks very nice. Runs very quiet as well. I was pleased to see that the outfeed roller for the planer is rubber, my old stationary planer's was ribbed metal and would leave little marks on the wood. I have not run a piece of wood over as the dust collector I ordered will be here at the end of the month so Im trying to wait to avoid covering my shop in a fine layer of dust...we'll see how that goes. Also, the straightedge I ordered is back-ordered till next week so I can't check or align anything on it yet. Some pics for those interested...    I also took the time to re-align my table saw top/fence/mitre gauge after the move. Feels good to have a proper shop up almost up and running again. My goal for 2021 is to build a piece of furniture. A lathe stand is going to be my first project, then I have a side table to build. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jan 9, 2021 |
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Jan 9, 2021 01:43
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it's so clean
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Jan 9, 2021 02:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I am glad to know veritas has added a sandpaper container to their product line. That container is what the miniature shoulder plane comes in, I just removed the inserts.
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Jan 9, 2021 02:23
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Meow Meow Meow posted:My combo unit arrive this week, got it all cleaned up and waxed. Change-over is super easy and the carbide insert head looks very nice. Runs very quiet as well. I was pleased to see that the outfeed roller for the planer is rubber, my old stationary planer's was ribbed metal and would leave little marks on the wood. I have not run a piece of wood over as the dust collector I ordered will be here at the end of the month so Im trying to wait to avoid covering my shop in a fine layer of dust...we'll see how that goes. Also, the straightedge I ordered is back-ordered till next week so I can't check or align anything on it yet. Some pics for those interested... nice laboratory, you planning on joining some microchips
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Jan 9, 2021 02:57
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