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ColdPie posted:Nicely done, looks great, and those dovetails give it some great detail. How did you cut those stopped grooves in the left and right sides? Thanks! I assume you mean these?  I never intended for them to be stopped, so they were initially done all the way through with a grooving plane. But I screwed up laying out the half-blind dovetails which would have meant the groove would have been visible on the outside pins of the joint. After realising this, I cheated by gluing in some scraps into the grooves where the pins are. It would have been really weak in that area too so it should hopefully reinforce it a bit. Of course, after doing this I had made it impossible to slide the bottom in when I had 3 of the 4 sides together! So I had to angle the whole thing a bit during the glue up, which was difficult trying to hold all the captured dividers in at the same time. Being the same wood and end-grain its pretty hard to tell anything is there. I took this photo in bright sunlight to show it: 
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Jan 16, 2021 23:54
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I actually meant the ones going the other direction on those same pieces! But that was interesting, too.
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Jan 17, 2021 01:56
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This is pretty neat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuFeYW-KWC0 Some good distressing techniques I'm gonna try to remember
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Jan 17, 2021 19:39
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On the one hand, it seems nuts to me to go to the effort of making a brand-new floor with precision-fit joinery, and then immediately blast the hell out of it with sand and wires. On the other hand, I bet the pre-distressed floor ages way more gracefully than if you'd applied finish to the "clean" wood and installed it as-is. In that case every scratch and mark would show way more strongly, I bet.
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Jan 17, 2021 21:10
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My brand new Makita plunge saw arrived yesterday, and I had a chance to briefly play with it this morning. I really should have bought one years ago, it's a joy to use compared with messing about with a circular saw. The afternoon was spent making seed trays out of pallet timber. Not my preferred way to pass an afternoon, but my dad's been watching too many upcycling videos, and insisted I make some for him. Also, here's a terrible phone picture of a bowl I made from a walnut kitchen worktop offcut from work. 
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Jan 17, 2021 21:37
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What's everyone's favorite way of doing lids for boxes? I'm making a tool box for my new Dowelmax (which I 3d printed trays for). I've got the sides fitted but not yet glued. (it's in the clamps overnight to hopefully pull some twist out of one of the long sides) 
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Jan 18, 2021 00:37
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Today I got some work in on some big chungus charcuterie boards for my friend. In flattening them out from the rough ash slabs I was surprised to find that it was much easier and more effective to jackplane across the grain than along it. The plane went smoother, removed wood more effectively, and with far less tearout, even if it left a rougher surface behind. I'm talking pieces up to 24 square ish, with a no.5. Do you more experienced people have any comments on this? I felt like I was flouting conventional wisdom or making some mistakes that I couldn't see. But it worked.
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Jan 18, 2021 03:41
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Isn't that how everyone says that it should be done? Diagonal across the grain, then sand?
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Jan 18, 2021 04:05
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I'm looking to pick up some measurement tools like a digital inclinometer, a decent combination square, etc, but there's an endless sea of options, and I'm wondering if it's one of those "they're all actually manufactured by the same 2 companies" situations. Any that should be avoided? Or does it not matter at this point, they've all figured out how to make square squares, so the cheapest one's probably just fine?
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Jan 18, 2021 04:40
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CommonShore posted:Today I got some work in on some big chungus charcuterie boards for my friend. In flattening them out from the rough ash slabs I was surprised to find that it was much easier and more effective to jackplane across the grain than along it. The plane went smoother, removed wood more effectively, and with far less tearout, even if it left a rougher surface behind. I'm talking pieces up to 24 square ish, with a no.5. This is how you would typically use a scrub plane. A plane with a square iron will still do the job, it just won't take as much off in each pass, and might require a bit more force. Just have to be careful to not split out the far end, which you'd normally put a 45º bevel in, which would stretch down to the final desired thickness of the board. Or just take care to not extend past the far edge of the board. Like Blistex said, for flattening a large slab I'd normally go 45º, 90º (with the grain) and 120º from from where you are standing, assuming the grain is running left-to-right, just to get it from all angles. Certainly nothing wrong with what you are doing. If the grain is particularly difficult you could also try angling the plane as you move it across the work.
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Jan 18, 2021 04:51
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epalm posted:I'm looking to pick up some measurement tools like a digital inclinometer, a decent combination square, etc, but there's an endless sea of options, and I'm wondering if it's one of those "they're all actually manufactured by the same 2 companies" situations. This is the one I have and seems to be the standard: https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-...&tag=mozilla-20 Been using for 4 years now and has served me well, haven't even replaced the battery. As far as combo squares, I got a cheap one I'm pretty fed up with, so I wouldn't mind a recommendation on a quality one myself.
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Jan 18, 2021 06:48
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I'm going to get a medic alert bracelet made up with the instructions "if you find the wearer in the midst of a panic attack, just play him a JSK-Koubou video or two on YouTube". His diy projects generate more serenity than sawdust.
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Jan 18, 2021 12:45
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epalm posted:I'm looking to pick up some measurement tools like a digital inclinometer, a decent combination square, etc, but there's an endless sea of options, and I'm wondering if it's one of those "they're all actually manufactured by the same 2 companies" situations. For combination squares, you can get PEC blemishes from https://www.harryepstein.com/. They're no Starrett, but they are cheap and square.
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Jan 18, 2021 14:54
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Granite Octopus posted:This is how you would typically use a scrub plane. A plane with a square iron will still do the job, it just won't take as much off in each pass, and might require a bit more force. Just have to be careful to not split out the far end, which you'd normally put a 45º bevel in, which would stretch down to the final desired thickness of the board. Or just take care to not extend past the far edge of the board. Well in all of the planing videos I watched I never caught that detail other than angling the plane.  I got especially nervous with this stuff because of the tearout risk I was getting. I'm going for perfect surfaces, so an 1/8 inch tearout could represent an hour of work undone. Once I got them flattened I went to the sander
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Jan 18, 2021 15:03
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I stumbled across a craigslist ad for a combo sander and a 3h 220v dust collector (the 2 can variety). I tore the DC apart. I'm beginning the process of trying to figure out where to put this stupid thing in the (small) shop. My goal is to be able to reach the table saw (which needs to remain mobile on casters), the jointer, the planer (currently cart-mounted), and provide some off-shoots for smaller tools, as well as a catch for my lathe. Anyone have experience with these Wynn filters? I'd love to slap a couple on to improve air quality, and I have a surplus of HP so the CFM shouldn't falter at all. Has anyone made their own 2-stage DC system with a 3hp motor? Most 2-stagers I've seen (or have watched built on youtube) have been 1-2hp units and I want some feedback as to whether I'm setting myself up for an uncomfortable realization.
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Jan 18, 2021 16:05
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Granite Octopus posted:Finished up this sewing caddy today. Some scrap wood (hence the filled nail holes), all hand tools. It’s been a while since I’ve used rasps and files for shaping so that was fun. my last bandsaw blade broke on the first cut so I used a chisel for most of the curves else except the inner of the handle which was done with a crappy coping saw. This is very nice, I think I might made one of these! Posting on the Lucky Page
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Jan 18, 2021 16:12
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Discomancer posted:For combination squares, you can get PEC blemishes from https://www.harryepstein.com/. They're no Starrett, but they are cheap and square. PEC blemished tools are wonderful. Everybody should treat themselves to a 4 or 6" 4R double square. I've gotten all my PEC stuff from Taylor Toolworks through eBay. It all comes up from a search for 'pec blem.' e: also a little machinists 6" scale in 4R is a wonderful tool to have for woodworking.
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Jan 18, 2021 16:20
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I drop combination squares too often to ever spend the money on a nice one. I just check it against my machinist squares after each drop 
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Jan 18, 2021 16:44
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JEEVES420 posted:I drop combination squares too often to ever spend the money on a nice one. I just check it against my machinist squares after each drop what if you drop the machinist square 
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Jan 18, 2021 16:45
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JEEVES420 posted:I drop combination squares too often to ever spend the money on a nice one. I just check it against my machinist squares after each drop This made me laugh, thanks for that. Router chat: I have a DW 616 router (two of them, actually). It take both 1/4" and 1/2" bits just by changing the collet. The other day I went to use a 1/2" cove bit for the first time, and the bit was too large to fit inside the plastic base. I've since decided that 1/2" is too large a cove for me and I'm going to use 3/8" anyway, but how would you all have handled this? Create a new base for the router?
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Jan 18, 2021 16:58
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Rutibex posted:what if you drop the machinist square Its a set of 4, surely they can't all be wrong 
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Jan 18, 2021 16:58
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This made me laugh, thanks for that.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:05
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This made me laugh, thanks for that. You can make one with 1/4" plexiglass or leave the base loose and plunge the bit (running) through it. Slowly. Probably not the most optimal, but I've done it when I was strapped for time.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:22
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Discomancer posted:For combination squares, you can get PEC blemishes from https://www.harryepstein.com/. They're no Starrett, but they are cheap and square. "Christmas Machete Set" Yes, please.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:24
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Uthor posted:"Christmas Machete Set" quote:The two thigns we can promise you is that the packages will contain 5 machetes and that they'll be made in Colombia.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:43
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I'm wondering, since upgrading to a shelix / helix cutter head is so popular now, what happens to all the old cutter heads? Isn't someone selling? Second hand market looking kinda dry.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:00
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm wondering, since upgrading to a shelix / helix cutter head is so popular now, what happens to all the old cutter heads? Isn't someone selling? Second hand market looking kinda dry. They gather dust on shelves, I think. I was able to find a full cutterhead + pillow blocks to replace a broken part in my jointer on ebay for very little. What size/machine cutterhead are you seeking? My easy find was a 6 inch jointer head.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:17
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Looking for a friend actually, 24 inches or 610mm
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Jan 18, 2021 19:06
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His Divine Shadow posted:Looking for a friend actually, 24 inches or 610mm All that being said, I'd call around at used machinery dealers-they're gonna be the ones who might have something or know who has it.
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Jan 18, 2021 19:30
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Opted to route dados top and bottom and fit plywood panels. I'll saw the top off once the glue is dry.
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Jan 18, 2021 19:40
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CommonShore posted:Well in all of the planing videos I watched I never caught that detail other than angling the plane. Do you have any scrapers? They work great for fixing tear-out in tricky grain that planes struggle with.
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Jan 18, 2021 20:44
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I'm at the point building these bookshelves where it feels like i'm back at work again. Hours and hours building the same thing.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:13
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Granite Octopus posted:Do you have any scrapers? They work great for fixing tear-out in tricky grain that planes struggle with. No I should get some next time I snag some tools. But I really doubt that a scraper could solve this tearout though - we're taking really big gouges and rips that have me thinking about gluing it back together. I'm willing to patiently sand for long periods and the tears that I get in this ash when the plane hits it the wrong way give me the heebie jeebies.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:19
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NomNomNom posted:Opted to route dados top and bottom and fit plywood panels. I'll saw the top off once the glue is dry. I was going to reply to your previous post but my adhd rear end forgot. This is exactly my usual method for shop stuff (and for fancy stuff that will look good with the inset top). If you're sawing off the top with a table saw and haven't ever done it before, take a dry run or two and think carefully about where you put your hands and where you push vs the force the blade is exerting. Also it's sometimes worth making the first 3 cuts and taping in blade-kerf-width shims so it doesn't do anything weird and blade-pinchy when you make the 4th cut. e: really love the 3d printed dowelmax organizing too btw. I've been meaning to do something like that for mine for a long time. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 21:30
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Blistex posted:Isn't that how everyone says that it should be done? Diagonal across the grain, then sand? this should really be in the op This is the flattening process. Smoothing and dealing with tearout usually just means mucking around with skewing the plane and or changing the angle of attack with a back bevel or microbevel if your smoother is bevel up.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:37
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Thanks for the advice the other day, desktop came out great. It warped slightly after gluing, but screwing it to the metal frame took that out. A bit of cable management to do still, but already trying to get used to standing.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:34
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Last two Cha-Coot-Er-Eee boards I made, I used a Stanley #5, diagonal cut with finer and finer adjustments, skipped the card scraper entirely, then 30 seconds with the random orbital and some 220. They were Elm and walnut. I also used the same method for some end grain walnut and maple cutting boards that had a sacrificial frame around them to prevent tearing.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:42
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Gounads posted:Thanks for the advice the other day, desktop came out great. It warped slightly after gluing, but screwing it to the metal frame took that out. That looks good! I feel like you're probably going to want to have those displays be higher up though. Ideally you want your eyes to be level with the upper third or so of the display, and your elbows to be at a 90 degree angle when typing / using the mouse. You should also consider getting an anti-fatigue mat for the floor. I know when I stand for long periods of time on hard floors, my feet start to hurt.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:49
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ripping stock by hand is not fun my goodness. I had a 22" rip cut to do in some 2" maple and it took forever to get a shoddy board that needed another forever of planing to get the cut face cleaned up. I wonder if I can fit a tiny band saw in my shed because I don't wanna do that again
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Jan 19, 2021 00:04
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Hypnolobster posted:I was going to reply to your previous post but my adhd rear end forgot. This is exactly my usual method for shop stuff (and for fancy stuff that will look good with the inset top). I ended up cutting the top off on the bandsaw since I didn't want to lose a full kerf from the table saw. It went poorly. After cleaning up the edges I'll have probably lost 0.25". I'll make the 3d print files available on thingiverse soon if you want them.
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Jan 19, 2021 00:31
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