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Would I be able to "regenerate" an ink pad by adding drops of bottled ink to it?
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Jan 22, 2021 10:54
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Just got a kerosene heater for my wood shop. Is there anyway to avoid spending $10 a gallon on K-1 kerosene? Is gas station kerosene really not an option? Any other way to lower the cost to run this thing? Diesel and Kerosene are very similar. You might be able to use diesel in place of Kerosene. Bonus points if you go to a place that has coloured diesel and then its cheaper because you don't have to pay road taxes.
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Jan 22, 2021 14:15
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Professor Shark posted:Would I be able to "regenerate" an ink pad by adding drops of bottled ink to it? Yes, that's the intended usage for them. You can buy vials of ink specifically for that purpose. Eventually the sponge will degrade but until that point feel free to add ink.
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Jan 22, 2021 14:15
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life is killing me posted:I’ve never been to a gas station that sold kerosene, or I had no idea that any gas stations sold kerosene, can pick which I guess. I'd say it's a little more rare than the gas stations that sell propane, but I guess it depends on where you live. wesleywillis posted:Diesel and Kerosene are very similar. That sounds like it would create a lot of soot. When I was four or five years old, my parents used a kerosene heater in our basement before eventually getting a wood stove. I remember them getting the kerosene at a gas station, and they're not the type of people who would use something that would be detrimental to the house or people in it - at least by 1980s standards. The last time I used a kerosene heater was almost 20 years ago in a very well ventilated trailer used as an office at a paintball field. Those people were definitely the type who would use something detrimental, but absolutely used the clean fuel.
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Jan 22, 2021 16:56
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I rent and my fridge just stopped working, I spoke to the repairman and they're coming tomorrow and don't expect to get parts until next week. It's something on the control board, because if I short the pins that control the compressor, it runs and cools fine. Am I likely to damage something by just keeping those pins shorted? I only plan to do it when I'm at home and awake to keep an eye on it, and unplug it once in a while to let the compressor cool (or once the fridge gets back down to normal temps) It's this fridge https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/PDS20SFSBRSS
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Jan 23, 2021 02:12
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I found a fuel oil place near me that sells K-1 for $4.40 a gallon so I guess I'll be driving out there every now and again. Some information online and the manual for the heater made it sound like gas stations aren't always selling K-1. I assume that's Big Kerosene trying to make me pay Lowes prices.
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Jan 23, 2021 02:56
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feelix posted:I rent and my fridge just stopped working, I spoke to the repairman and they're coming tomorrow and don't expect to get parts until next week. What is in your fridge? The risk you run if you do this is you forget and freeze the gently caress out of your fridge and maybe leak coolant, and it will be very obvious that you messed with it. There would have to be something really precious in that fridge for me to take the risk instead of just buying a bag of ice and putting the stuff I couldn't eat in time in a cooler.
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Jan 23, 2021 04:11
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Corla Plankun posted:What is in your fridge? The risk you run if you do this is you forget and freeze the gently caress out of your fridge and maybe leak coolant, and it will be very obvious that you messed with it. There would have to be something really precious in that fridge for me to take the risk instead of just buying a bag of ice and putting the stuff I couldn't eat in time in a cooler. Also, where is the goon in question located? Its winter, and cold in much of the country. If they're in Texas then maybe its not that cold, but somewhere else, a cooler on the porch/balcony etc would probably work.
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Jan 23, 2021 04:31
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Florida unfortunately I don't think I'd forget but yeah it's probably not worth it
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Jan 23, 2021 04:38
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Well now it's working on its own without the jumper wire and now I'm worried that if the compressor switching relay is sticky, it will stick in the on position 
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Jan 23, 2021 06:45
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Can someone recommend the proper compound to fasten this sink (would the term be floating?) to the counter?
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Jan 23, 2021 14:20
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What does the bottom of the sink look like? Is it flat or only has a ridge that makes contact with the countertop? Is it held down by a lip and kitchen sink-style clips? Without any more info, I'd say construction adhesive on the bottom contact area and silicone caulk on the outside.
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Jan 23, 2021 15:02
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Yeah it's a ridge around the edge that makes contact, I haven't seen clips.
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Jan 23, 2021 15:07
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There should be some kind of fastening mechanism for the underside...if there isn't any, I would use clear adhesive silicone on the contact surfaces and be very, very diligent in wiping off any excess on the countertop surface around the perimeter. It can be shaved off later with a new sharp blade, but it'll never be easier to get a nice, clean bead than before it starts to set. I used acetone and a Q-tip. You can also 'dot' clear adhesive around the perimeter mating surfaces, then run a bead of silicone after it's set.
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Jan 23, 2021 17:27
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I'd imagine it came with a fairly robust steel drain pipe as its primary method of fastening?
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Jan 23, 2021 18:08
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I have some 4ft T8 LED tubes someone left behind. I believe they are these. I know that existing florescent fixtures needed their ballasts bypassed before using these bulbs. I do not know how to find fixtures that can use these bulbs. Ideally, I want a way to use these such that they plug into an outlet and can be chained, but while only using one bulb per fixture. What am I looking for that doesn't already come with LED bulbs?
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Jan 24, 2021 04:08
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You're looking for a "shop light" fixture. The problem you're gonna have is that a new fluorescent fixture will run you about 20 bucks, the same as one that comes with LEDs already in it so you're not really saving money, just making work if you need to rip out the ballast anyway. If you could find used ones locally you might save some money but the time you'll put it probably not worth it
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Jan 24, 2021 04:12
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floWenoL posted:By 'first plug' you mean the Ikea one I linked? The one in the video I mean.
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Jan 24, 2021 04:18
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Serenade posted:I have some 4ft T8 LED tubes someone left behind. I believe they are these. I know that existing florescent fixtures needed their ballasts bypassed before using these bulbs. They make linkable strip lights that would be a lot easier and safer, assuming you're looking for a temporary installation. There are several styles of these available. They also sell LED-ready strip lights that would use your bulbs and are pre-wired, but these would need to be permanently installed. They could be chained together on one circuit, but you'd be hardwiring them in a code-legal manner.
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Jan 24, 2021 04:45
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Qwijib0 posted:You're looking for a "shop light" fixture. The problem you're gonna have is that a new fluorescent fixture will run you about 20 bucks, the same as one that comes with LEDs already in it so you're not really saving money, just making work if you need to rip out the ballast anyway. If you could find used ones locally you might save some money but the time you'll put it probably not worth it angryrobots posted:They make linkable strip lights that would be a lot easier and safer, assuming you're looking for a temporary installation. There are several styles of these available. Unfortunate. Not the answer I wanted, but explains why I had a hard time looking. Thanks, I'll settle for some LED tape for now.
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Jan 24, 2021 14:51
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Serenade posted:Unfortunate. Not the answer I wanted, but explains why I had a hard time looking. Thanks, I'll settle for some LED tape for now. You could try looking for used shop lights, but the cheapest ones with integrated LEDs are about the same price as buying them without as stated, and while they make LED ready lamps they aren't notably cheaper. I went through all of this recently because I don't really like fixtures with integrated LEDs and ending up just buying the cheapest shop lights I could find and removing the ballst, which takes all of 5 minutes a fixture (less if you're pulling them open anyway to wire them or put a plug on, which I was).
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Jan 25, 2021 01:02
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Wallet posted:You could try looking for used shop lights, but the cheapest ones with integrated LEDs are about the same price as buying them without as stated, and while they make LED ready lamps they aren't notably cheaper. I went through all of this recently because I don't really like fixtures with integrated LEDs and ending up just buying the cheapest shop lights I could find and removing the ballst, which takes all of 5 minutes a fixture (less if you're pulling them open anyway to wire them or put a plug on, which I was). Curious because I'm helping a friend light up his new shop, how much were the fixtures you found? Cheapest I see is $18/ea from Lowe's. That's cheaper than the LED ready fixtures I've found, annoyingly.
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Jan 25, 2021 02:43
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It's just one of those things, like how those old 500w halogen work lights used to be the same cost as just the replacement bulb.
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Jan 25, 2021 03:14
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A previous owner framed off a corner and turned it in a laundry space. They made "rustic" doors out of plywood and scrap wood. The doors aren't properly framed, they've just screwed the hinges to a piece of that crappy primed casing they sell at Home Depot. Since the casing is only like an inch deep and was glued to the drywall (!), the weight of the door is pulling it off at the top corner. Is there any reason I can't put a couple of screws (or nails) to hold the casing in place as a temporary fix?
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Jan 25, 2021 03:22
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Ummm, with that level of initial construction I'd certainly go hog wild with whatever you want, screws, nails, bolts, glue skies the limit on poo poo you're gonna have to replace later anyways. I would also love pictures of this rustic construction.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:52
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angryrobots posted:Curious because I'm helping a friend light up his new shop, how much were the fixtures you found? Cheapest I see is $18/ea from Lowe's. They were around $20 a fixture (single tube) in a four pack or something like that. I believe I got them from Home Depot.
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Jan 25, 2021 13:23
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I bought the 8 pack of Barrina 4-ft LED lights on Amazon for $50, they worked great for lighting up my basement and laundry room. The hardware is barebones but I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere.
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Jan 25, 2021 15:20
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X-Posted from the wiring thread: Asking here, though maybe the HVAC thread (does that still exist?) is better. My electric baseboards don't seem to be heating enough, namely the one in the living room. 240V double pole, replaced the thermostat last year from the old dial, bi-metal style to a programmable one. It does turn on, but the heat seems a lot less than it used to be last winter. Like...it's set to 67, but never gets there, at least not if the outside temp is below 20F. It was on all day yesterday and only barely got to 67 by like 3 or 4 PM, and the oven being on a lot helped with that (living room and kitchen share a wall where the thermostat lives.) It goes to 58 overnight, and when I got up this morning to work from home, set it to 67, and it's only at 62 now, 3 hours later. I can put my bare hand on the baseboard, I feel like I shouldn't be able to do that? It should be hotter than that. Is it possible it's somehow only getting 1 leg of the 240V and is operating at 120? None of the breakers were tripped, and they're all double pole so it's not like only 1 leg could be off, but maybe something in the thermostat wiring is wrong? It worked last winter when I replaced it, so I'm not sure what cold have happened, but I guess I can take a look to verify. I know my house is not perfectly insulated, but again, last winter I had no problems getting the house/room to the set temp, so I feel like something happened to the thermostat or baseboard.
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Jan 25, 2021 17:27
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I need to get my sewer line re-lined and I am having a really hard time getting someone to come out to even give me a bid. I got a quote last time I needed to get hydro-jetted by the company that came out to do that work and I'm fine with the cost given but would obviously like to at least get one more to compare. Any way to get a gut check from you guys? My understanding is they will need to dig down ~3' to a turn after my cleanout which is where they will insert the first 25' and then dig another hole ~3.5' at a Y to insert another 5 after that. I got a quote for 6600 and I'm in the Seattle area if that helps. The cost for the actual hydrojetting was in line with what I expected to pay and they were fine to work with in general.
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Jan 25, 2021 18:27
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:The cost for the actual hydrojetting was in line with what I expected to pay and they were fine to work with in general. Then hire them. If you're nervous, ask them if they have a couple of customers who have had similar work done that you can talk to. Hearing from other customers how they are satisfied/unsatisfied will be much more useful information than just a dollar number from another contractor you have no working relationship with. The best deal you can receive is being able to poop in your toilet successfully after the work is completed in an efficient, professional manner. Keep your eye on the prize.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:02
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Tezer posted:Then hire them. If you're nervous, ask them if they have a couple of customers who have had similar work done that you can talk to. Thats a good point. I'm fine paying slightly more than market for work, I just like knowing I'm not getting hosed for being lazy and not putting in a little more effort to get quotes.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:42
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Thats a good point. I'm fine paying slightly more than market for work, I just like knowing I'm not getting hosed for being lazy and not putting in a little more effort to get quotes. It's like the efficient market hypothesis. If a contractor has been around for a while and has good references, they probably aren't gouging people. Some portion of their previous clientele has already investigated their cost competitiveness and you just have to reap the rewards. Should you get more than one quote as a general rule? Ya, maybe if that's your only way of gauging the value of the work, but if you're having trouble finding that second quote you'll probably still be fine.
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Jan 25, 2021 20:02
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After four months of "I've got other things going on" and "I don't want a dumpster in the driveway at Christmas, I don't care if no one is visiting us because of the corona, I still don't want it," I'm resuming my basement work. Two of the walls have paneling nailed to furring strips and furring strips nailed to the block. The paneling comes off easily, but those strips... It is my understanding that if I try to pry the strips off with a prybar, I could damage the block. I was told that I can use a chisel to split the wood from nail to nail over the length of the strip and then just pull the two pieces off the wall with my hands. Angle grinder will take care of the nails later. I tested the chisel and mallet idea, which did work but was a ton of work and there's a lot of strips. Is there a better way to do this?
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Jan 27, 2021 05:50
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Grind the nailheads off, then smash the furring strips off with a big loving hammer, imo.
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Jan 27, 2021 06:22
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I'm going to stain two 29"x60" beech tabletops. Assuming each one will take 2-3 coats, how long between coats do you reckon is best? How smelly is staining? I live in a 2 bedroom apartment, is this going to fume us out? I have family with garages 40 minutes away and could drive there to do it but that would be a PITA.
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Jan 27, 2021 07:02
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VelociBacon posted:I'm going to stain two 29"x60" beech tabletops. Assuming each one will take 2-3 coats, how long between coats do you reckon is best? At least 24-hours; follow the instructions on the stain. Between coats, you will want to sand or at least, use fine steel wool to knock down the grain in the wood, which will rise a little once the stain is applied. VelociBacon posted:How smelly is staining? I live in a 2 bedroom apartment, is this going to fume us out? Probably. Look for low-odor/ low VOC stains, buy one, take it home and open the can. You'll know. Keep in mind your neighbors will also know. VelociBacon posted:I have family with garages 40 minutes away and could drive there to do it but that would be a PITA. Probably your best bet, since you're not living alone. If you have pets: Definitely.
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Jan 27, 2021 07:24
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What's the best varnish for some old fir? Probably, stair treads? this stuff?
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Jan 27, 2021 07:35
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PainterofCrap posted:At least 24-hours; follow the instructions on the stain. Between coats, you will want to sand or at least, use fine steel wool to knock down the grain in the wood, which will rise a little once the stain is applied. Thanks a lot, sounds like the garage route is going to be best. I do have pets but they live underwater so would just watch us choke and die through the aquarium glass.
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Jan 27, 2021 07:43
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VelociBacon posted:Thanks a lot, sounds like the garage route is going to be best. I do have pets but they live underwater so would just watch us choke and die through the aquarium glass. Anything you're breathing will find its way into their air, unless you do not have a pump. You could turn it off until you ventilate, or move the intake outside, but VOC can injure or kill them
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Jan 27, 2021 16:06
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I needed to install a door to our basement utility room in a hurry (we needed to cat sit for an extended period on short notice for a friend, and the utility room was too dangerous for the cat), but the left side of the opening was not plumb. The bottom of the opening was 1.75 inches wider than the top, and I didn't have a lot of time, so just kind of made it work: The wall on the right was plumb, the one on the left was not. The door fits perfectly at the top of the opening, with a gap opening along the left side that gradually grows to 1.75 inches. For the time being I just secured the right side, top, and upper left side, and the door works just fine to keep this drat cat out of the basement. I would now like to make this look non-lovely, and I'm not sure how. I don't care if it looks lovely from the basement side, but I'd like it to look at least quasi-finished from the interior of the house. My plan is to wedge shims and 1x6 in wherever I can, then secure the whole thing by driving long nails/screws through the doorframe, shims, 1x6, and into the wall behind. I am then probably going to fill remaining gaps with joint compound and then cover the entire mess with large trim. Does this seem like an awful idea, or does anyone have any better ideas? I am open to just about anything that does not involve removing the doorframe from the opening. Thanks.
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Jan 27, 2021 16:34
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