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CommonShore posted:If you can see it, light is hitting it this is the answer
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Jan 24, 2021 21:27
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Uthor posted:Wss looking at this end table design as it's a) something I'd be comfortable tackling, b) doesn't look like screwed together 2x4's like a lot of others I've seen, and c) would teach me something new (half lap joints). There's a few ways, and glued dowel tenons are definitely one of them. I personally really like the way flush-sanded wedged tenons look, and they're one of the first things I learned how to do competently. Screws work fine for most applications that don't apply shearing forces, and well enough for many that do. They're just not elegant, drat it.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:29
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Wait, wait, wait. Walnut lightens with age, right? Cherry darkens, walnut is bleached. Y/N?
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Jan 24, 2021 21:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:Polycrylic eh. I put a water based polyurethane finish on some walnut living room furniture I made 20-odd years ago, and it has defied darkening- to my ire and chagrin. Now I know why.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:IME a film finish like poly or lacquer does make it darken considerably slower than an oil finish, both because the film prevents more oxidation/UV light and because oil soaking into the wood darkens it some. You could leave it unfinished for a while and let it darken a bit, or stick it outside for a few hours on a few sunny days. It darkens quite quickly with UV exposure, but it can be hard to get it even. I remember reading about your experiments in the chair thread. I'm probably just going to leave the cherry alone—knowing where it's going to end up is appealing but I don't really want to gently caress around with dangerous chemicals to do it. It's going to get blasted with plant lights so I imagine it will darken up just fine.
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Jan 24, 2021 22:17
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Uthor posted:Wss looking at this end table design as it's a) something I'd be comfortable tackling, b) doesn't look like screwed together 2x4's like a lot of others I've seen, and c) would teach me something new (half lap joints). Probably, but I’m not sure it’s worth the effort of not using screws. I’d still glue it on, and the screws will help with clamping pressure while the glue dries. I mean, you won’t see them, and I’ve made more of a mess trying to not use screws for something simple that I won’t see and not added anything useful to the project where for something small that doesn’t get sat on it may not be useful past practicing some skill.
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Jan 24, 2021 23:04
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Wallet posted:I remember reading about your experiments in the chair thread. I'm probably just going to leave the cherry alone—knowing where it's going to end up is appealing but I don't really want to gently caress around with dangerous chemicals to do it. It's going to get blasted with plant lights so I imagine it will darken up just fine. Cherry darkens decently quickly anyway. I had two pieces of cherry furniture next to each other, one of which was ~a year older than the other. When I first put the second piece in, it was noticeably lighter than the first one, but they're indistinguishable now.
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Jan 24, 2021 23:27
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Should a cordless drill (specifically dewalt 777) be able to drill 1/2” holes in pine? Mine absoleutely will no budge even on the max power setting without splitting the opposite side of the wood
Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 00:26
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Bouillon Rube posted:Should a cordless drill (specifically dewalt 777) be able to drill 1/2” holes in pine? Mine absoleutely will no budge even on the max power setting It should go through it like a hot knife through butter.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:27
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Sorry, let me rephrase- it will technically go through, but I have to put an insane amount of pressure on the drill and the opposite side always blows out like this. What am I doing wrong?
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Jan 25, 2021 00:32
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Dull and/or lovely drill bits. Also, in general you'll get blowout on the other side unless the piece is on something sacrificial to support the wood fiber on the far side of the hole. Ideally clamped down. e: or the drill is in reverse 
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Jan 25, 2021 00:37
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Uthor posted:Wss looking at this end table design as it's a) something I'd be comfortable tackling, b) doesn't look like screwed together 2x4's like a lot of others I've seen, and c) would teach me something new (half lap joints). I like to use tabletop buttons in a long mortise in the rails. I make my own out of scrap wood, but you can also buy metal z clips or figure eights. These will allow for wood movement a lot better than just screws.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:39
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Hypnolobster posted:Dull and/or lovely drill bits. Also, in general you'll get blowout on the other side unless the piece is on something sacrificial to support the wood fiber on the far side of the hole. Ideally clamped down. I'm betting on the drill being in reverse.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:18
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Bouillon Rube posted:Should a cordless drill (specifically dewalt 777) be able to drill 1/2” holes in pine? Mine absoleutely will no budge even on the max power setting without splitting the opposite side of the wood I was drilling 3/8” holes through the long side of some 2x4s today and after blowing out the other side of the first hole I had to remind myself to do it in multiple passes, in the sense that after making some progress, back up to let the chips out, then make some more progress, repeat. Worked a lot better after making that adjustment, not sure if it applies to your situation though. epswing fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 02:00
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Another thing that helps with lovely soft pine and spade bits is to run a 1/8 pilot hole first and then drill it from both sides to meet in the middle
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Jan 25, 2021 02:15
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Dull drill bits would explain needing a lot of force. I don't suppose you used that drill bit to drill through masonry or concrete? That'll dull a bit really quickly. And yeah, clamp some sacrificial wood to the backside where the hole emerges or you'll get blowout. That's an issue pretty much regardless of your tools and technique.
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Jan 25, 2021 02:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Dull drill bits would explain needing a lot of force. I don't suppose you used that drill bit to drill through masonry or concrete? That'll dull a bit really quickly. No, brand new harbor freight bits, which probably explains the poor performance  I tried the “sacrificial backing piece” method which helped with the blowouts though!
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Jan 25, 2021 03:00
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GEMorris posted:Ummmm, this is not true. Reduce the UV, yes, block and prevent color change? Not unless your room is a windowless basement. Ok I typed out a big pile of science poo poo and realized it's probably not useful and I'm taking this a bit more personally than I need to. Short version, it's not UV exposure specifically that is causing any changes, it's just light exposure at all. I can go into the science if anyone is interested in that poo poo, but it's probably very boring. I think I'm taking it too personally because I really, really detest misinformation around radiation. This isn't the same thing, but it's hitting that button for me.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:40
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Bouillon Rube posted:No, brand new harbor freight bits, which probably explains the poor performance Are the flutes in your bit getting packed with wood fibers and sawdust? That's my best guess, especially in something easily compressible like pine.
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Jan 25, 2021 05:16
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Baronash posted:Are the flutes in your bit getting packed with wood fibers and sawdust? That's my best guess, especially in something easily compressible like pine. I think that was part of the problem. This particular board was very...sappy?
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Jan 25, 2021 05:19
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My partner and I bought a house recently and have already started making changes The house was built around 1974, so there's some fairly dated poo poo in the place. First priority was modifying this weird arch thing in the kitchen. We're probably going to re wallpaper it, because it's chipboard and full of holes. Ultimately we're planning a full kitchen remodel in a year or two but this was driving us both crazy. Took about an hour to find all the various nails and screws, got it out then cut it with the circular saw reasonably straight with a level as a straight edge. The cabinetry behind it has sagged a touch with age so it's a temporary "good enough until we rip the kitchen out" kinda deal. Before:  After: 
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Jan 25, 2021 13:05
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Also we're planning on ripping out the faux brick wallpaper in the cavity next to it and putting in a different one until we remodel. Something relatively basic just to cover the bits we had to rip off
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Jan 25, 2021 13:07
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Suntan Boy posted:Skip it. There's way too many reviews claiming the same power issue, which sounds like a control board problem at manufacture. I'd skip any jointer or planer with anything advanced enough to require control boards on principle personally.
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Jan 25, 2021 13:29
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Olothreutes posted:Ok I typed out a big pile of science poo poo and realized it's probably not useful and I'm taking this a bit more personally than I need to. Short version, it's not UV exposure specifically that is causing any changes, it's just light exposure at all. I can go into the science if anyone is interested in that poo poo, but it's probably very boring. I think I'm taking it too personally because I really, really detest misinformation around radiation. This isn't the same thing, but it's hitting that button for me. I’ve had a parallel problem in another thread. The reason I bothered to quote/reply is to give you deserved credit for both restraint and (unlike I was able to do for myself) being so clear-eyed when it comes to recognizing the drivers of your feelings/urges. In COVID times the latter of those is no minor feat and, if I’m honest, reading your comment above provided some comfort and a better way of evaluating my own reaction. Thanks, man. That was a gracious and good post and I think it’s a really solid, “take a breath,” template for all of us who need a reminder now and then. Namaste (or whatever genuinely floats your even-keeled boat), dude.
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Jan 25, 2021 13:48
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'd skip any jointer or planer with anything advanced enough to require control boards on principle personally. How am I supposed to hook my planer up to my bluetooth headphones, dust collector, and workbench without a control board??
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Jan 25, 2021 14:20
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without a control board how is my jointer going to report my activities to the NSA
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Jan 25, 2021 15:50
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A while ago I bought some cherry lumber. Then I used hand tools to turn it into a table.       This is my first ever piece of furniture. I’m like 85% happy with how it turned out. I probably should be more since it was only hand tools and I’m still very much a beginner. One big lesson was, perfect tabletops are insanely hard to accomplish. This cherry especially had crazy grain that would change direction halfway down a board so a good plane run would suddenly start causing tear out. There’s some tear out still but luckily you kind of have to look closely or at the right angle. It also has a ton of figure. You can see that big blotch in the top, it almost disappears when looking from the other direction. I sanded to 400 and did 4 coats of tried and true Danish oil, which worked pretty well. It was a little challenging forcing myself to use so little and not just treat it like a wipe on oil.
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Jan 25, 2021 15:57
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Nice. Did you use dowels to secure the legs to the slats? Can I sharpen chisels using a regular knife sharpener (like this)? 
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Jan 25, 2021 17:13
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z0331 posted:A while ago I bought some cherry lumber. Then I used hand tools to turn it into a table. Hand tool pocket holes? This I gotta see. (I now want to see or stage a photo of someone using an eggbeater drill with a kreg jig just for the juxtaposition) I jibe, this is amazing work, for your first project its astounding really. z0331 posted:This is my first ever piece of furniture. I’m like 85% happy with how it turned out. I probably should be more since it was only hand tools and I’m still very much a beginner. Yeah, it should be more. Can I ask what your work setup was? Do you have a bench?
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Jan 25, 2021 17:41
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Love the tapers in the legs. You did those with hand tools too? If you want to avoid pocket screws in the future you could just glue some nailers inside the apron screw it from there
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Jan 25, 2021 17:58
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What’s wrong with pocket screws?
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Jan 25, 2021 18:12
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Bouillon Rube posted:What’s wrong with pocket screws? they can damage your jeans or make noise in the wash
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Jan 25, 2021 18:17
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Bouillon Rube posted:What’s wrong with pocket screws? Nothing. They can be unattractive if you expect people to start flipping your furniture over and examining it. They aren't as strong, and won't last as long, as properly cut joinery. But they're plenty strong for typical use (especially attaching a top) and "won't last as long" means your joints might start to loosen up in 20 years instead of 200.
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Jan 25, 2021 18:31
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They're also strongly associated with a certain type of woodworker you see a lot on youtube - using $20k worth of power tools to build ugly furniture out of 2x4s
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Jan 25, 2021 18:38
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Rufio posted:Love the tapers in the legs. You did those with hand tools too? I've seen lots of early 19th C English stuff where the top is held on with DIY pocket screws. Much better than when they glued the blocks to the aprons/case AND the top, and then something naturally has to give when stuff starts moving around. I usually use little blocks with screws going into the apron/case and top, but only because I forget to put in pocket holes or there is something in the way like a drawer runner. It's not super elegant but it works.
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Jan 25, 2021 18:40
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ColdPie posted:I like to use tabletop buttons in a long mortise in the rails. I make my own out of scrap wood, but you can also buy metal z clips or figure eights. These will allow for wood movement a lot better than just screws. I found this page explaining buttons and like the idea, though I think I will save it for another time. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/attaching-a-table-top-with-traditional-wooden-buttons/ The question I have is that they leave a gap between the button and the apron, and I don't see how that keeps the top from shifting around on the base. Is it just friction or are there other joints to keep them in line?
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Jan 25, 2021 19:11
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This is, oddly enough, a situation in which a biscuit joiner is useful Edit: God drat it ColdPie you sniped me while I was digging up the link!
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Jan 25, 2021 19:13
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Yeah I'd say pocket screws have a certain stigma and sorry if that is what came across in my post. My actual opinion is that if somebody is leaning down looking at your joinery from the underside, kick them in the butt.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:23
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Uthor posted:I found this page explaining buttons and like the idea, though I think I will save it for another time. The button grips the apron in the vertical direction, so it'll feel solid from the top: but it allows the surface to move a little in the horizontal direction from grain swelling and contraction as humidity changes, which is important and good for keeping the surface from buckling or forcing the aprons apart. This is one of the reasons that screwing the top onto the apron isn't as good: the top has no direction it can move easily, so it'll gradually open gaps and loosen parts wherever it has to whenever humidity goes up.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:30
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Huxley posted:Nothing. They can be unattractive if you expect people to start flipping your furniture over and examining it. They aren't as strong, and won't last as long, as properly cut joinery. But they're plenty strong for typical use (especially attaching a top) and "won't last as long" means your joints might start to loosen up in 20 years instead of 200. Should they be sufficient for this step stool that I’m building? 
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Jan 25, 2021 19:41
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