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Kurvi Tasch posted:I finally managed to finish the AA-70 firetruck I feel your pain. That AFV Club Stuart I posted a while back was basically "here's five flat panels with no guides or even markers, have fun building a hull!" You still did a good job with it, though. I did the second 1/72 T-26 S-model I had, coincidentally almost a year to the day after I finished the first one.    Year to year comparison:  The lip on the turret popped up out of joint right after I finished my base coat. At that point, I just kinda sighed and kept on trucking.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:41
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Looks great, especially for the scale! I've been meaning to do a Spanish Civil War tank with the big colourful turret bustle.
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Jan 25, 2021 03:58
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Hekk posted:It's been a giant pain in the rear end finding model paint nearby. I bought some stuff online from Sprue Brothers but I forgot to pick up acrylic primer. I went to the local hobby store and the only primer they had at all was Mission Models stuff. So I bought both black and white colors and came home planning to use 90% isopropyl alcohol to thin it. However, looking stuff up online seems to give me mixed results on whether it's advisable to cut this stuff with alcohol. Acrylic can be applied over enamel or lacquer no problem. You can prime with rattlecan primer from a hardware store (they are almost all enamel based) and paint over it with acrylics. I don't have any suggestions on which rattlecan primer might be best, though.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:09
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SkunkDuster posted:Acrylic can be applied over enamel or lacquer no problem. You can prime with rattlecan primer from a hardware store (they are almost all enamel based) and paint over it with acrylics. I don't have any suggestions on which rattlecan primer might be best, though. Rinaldi recommends the basic Krylon stuff. He seems to know a thing or two about getting a good finish on a model, so idk.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:44
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Yeah I appreciate it. I already bought this stupid expensive acrylic primer so I guess I will try to dilute it with alcohol and see how it holds up on scrap plastic or something. first. If that doesn't work out I will just stick to rattle cans of primer for the near term.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:55
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Nice firetruck ! Okay, I have a masking question. I've just had some of the yellow Tamiya masking tape pick up significant areas of paint. Why is the paint coming off with the tape ? Not enough primer ? Put down another layer of paint ? Do a layer of matte coat before masking ?
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Jan 25, 2021 05:37
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mllaneza posted:Nice firetruck ! Tamiya tape tends to be quite sticky in my experience and I've had it pull a decal up from under clearcoat that wasn't properly cured. De-tacking the tape by laying it onto a cutting mat before use seems to stop it pulling up stuff or ruining the paint finish.
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Jan 25, 2021 05:44
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Another issue I've had with Tamiya tape is it leaving residue behind when I remove it. This was always after applying tape to Tamiya lacquer sprays. Anyone know a good way to get the residue off?
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Jan 25, 2021 05:50
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FiskTireBoy posted:Another issue I've had with Tamiya tape is it leaving residue behind when I remove it. This was always after applying tape to Tamiya lacquer sprays. Anyone know a good way to get the residue off? detack before application seems to lessen it.
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Jan 25, 2021 06:03
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Okay thanks, that gives me a fix. I was starting to worry about an infinite spiral of taping, spraying, and re-taping.
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Jan 25, 2021 06:22
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Another model completed. This ones been kicking around for quite a while waiting for completion. It's Tamiya's Porsche 934 RSR turbo in Vaillant colours which I chose cause its not easy to find a teal race car in the first place and the rest of the livery screams 70's. Apologies for the white blowing out the photo it's rather hot and sunny out today.     Might also need to get some additonal shelves for the bookcase as the garage is looking rather full.  
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Jan 25, 2021 06:47
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Those are all beautiful cars, speaking of cars. How come there's not more classic super car kits? I was just browsing to see what Ferrari F40 or Jaguar XJ220 kits there are and it's a ghost town. Are late 80's - early 90's super cars not cool any more? 
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Jan 25, 2021 21:40
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Those are all beautiful cars, speaking of cars. How come there's not more classic super car kits? I was just browsing to see what Ferrari F40 or Jaguar XJ220 kits there are and it's a ghost town. Are late 80's - early 90's super cars not cool any more? I don’t find super cars as interesting tbh but I’ll probably get a mclaren F1 kit along the way. I’ve seen kits for both of those cars but they’ve become harder to get over the last 12 months as people have gotten back into modeling with the lockdowns. Tamiya paints have also gotten difficult to get and I’ll probably head to the hobby shop near work this week to see if they have any semi gloss black to keep me going along with with a couple of the metallic colors that get used on most cars. I gave mr color semi gloss black a go and it’s quite a nice paint but being a lacquer paint I don’t really want to use it for brush painting. In painting all of the necessary bits for my 787B model I went through most of my jar and that was with it thinned 50:50 with leveling thinner.
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Jan 25, 2021 23:52
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Oh I should have said I was browsing scalemates, not judging your taste in cars! I had a paint mishap today but a dumb one. My unlabelled bottles of black gloss and semigloss got mixed up and now I have no idea which is which 
Sultan Tarquin fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jan 26, 2021 |
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Jan 26, 2021 00:04
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Oh I should have said I was browsing scalemates, not judging your taste in cars! I had a paint mishap today but a dumb one. My unlabelled bottles of black gloss and semigloss got mixed up and now I have no idea which is which it seems to depend heavily on car brand. Things like ferrari and lambo you can get just about every car they've ever produced and I'm sure there are 80's supercar kits out there but they're all old kits that are starting to show their age or are by kit companies that aren't really known for producing kits that go together without some fettling (looking at you fujimi and aioshima). That's a bummer, guess you're just going to have to test each paint then label the jars. I'm hoping the paint situation with tamiya resolves itself along the way cause its going to make things difficult to keep modelling particularly without black and metallic paints cause I haven't yet built a car that doesn't use x-18, x-11 and xf-16 in some kind of combo.
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Jan 26, 2021 02:03
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I just expected there to be a whole lot more molds of iconic cars. The F40 in 1/24 has a tamiya mold from '88 that got reboxed twice then fujimi but that's really it, unless you go up in scale or get what looks like a resin kit made in a french dudes shed.
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Jan 26, 2021 02:31
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I'd really like some models of the current crop of GT3 cars but there's a choice between audi R8, BMW M6 or AMG GT3. NuNu announced a 911 RSR a couple of years ago but it seems to have disappeared into the ether as they concentrate on random things like a volvo 240 touring car. I'd absolutely love a model of the Bentley GT3 car but outside of a 100 euro 3D printed slot car body with no chassis there's nothing. I pulled my AMG GT3 out of the box yesterday to keep working on it and I'm far further through it than I thought which is a good thing.
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Jan 26, 2021 03:02
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Hekk posted:Yeah I appreciate it. I already bought this stupid expensive acrylic primer so I guess I will try to dilute it with alcohol and see how it holds up on scrap plastic or something. first. If that doesn't work out I will just stick to rattle cans of primer for the near term. If alcohol doesn't work, get a bottle of Vallejo airbrush thinner. It is an acrylic thinner and not too expensive. There are some caveats about the paint and the carrier, such as you can have something like a lacquer (carrier) based acrylic (pigment) which throw things out of whack. When I'm working with an unknown, I'll paint a test piece then see what dissolves it and call it what it is. For example, I mentioned that almost all hardware store primers are enamel based. I came to that conclusion by spraying test samples and then wiping them with a Q-Tip (cotton bud) dipped in mineral spirits (paint thinner) to see if it would dissolve it. In every case, it did. Lacquer based paints are pretty much impervious to mineral spirits, so if you can dissolve it, it isn't lacquer. As above, there are lacquer based acrylics and other cross breeds, but, as a modeler, all you give a poo poo about is what can you apply over what without ruining the underlying coat. If you spray light coats, you can airbrush pretty much anything over anything else. If you are doing washes and slathering it on heavy, you are going to want lacquer as your base as washes are generally going to be enamel, oil, or wax based and they are the same in practice. Enamel is the best for a gloss finish, so you'll have to really take that into consideration if you are doing car models. If you are doing military models, the TLDR way is to do your base coats in acrylic or lacquer, then clear coat in lacquer (or don't if you used a lacquer base paint). Then go in with your enamel based washes/pin dots/whatever, then flat coat with acrylics or light coats of lacquer. I just posted that as a stream of consciousness post, so there might be some flaws in my logic or other things I didn't consider.
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Jan 26, 2021 04:00
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Follow up question regarding my first time using metal tracks - I went the blackening solution route, and after baths on 2 consecutive days there are still a lot of deep recesses where the metal is still shiny and didn't react. In retrospect I guess its probably because I didn't clean the tracks beforehand? Any suggestions on how to handle? I guess I can give them a retroactive soapy water or vinegar bath, and then back into the blackening, or just get in there with some black primer? after this they'll get weathered so it should all even out...
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Jan 26, 2021 04:27
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boba fetacheese posted:Follow up question regarding my first time using metal tracks - I went the blackening solution route, and after baths on 2 consecutive days there are still a lot of deep recesses where the metal is still shiny and didn't react. In retrospect I guess its probably because I didn't clean the tracks beforehand? Any suggestions on how to handle? I guess I can give them a retroactive soapy water or vinegar bath, and then back into the blackening, or just get in there with some black primer? after this they'll get weathered so it should all even out... When using any chemical treatment like a blackening solution or cold blue, it is a great idea to clean the metal first and thoroughly with acetone or some other degreaser as even just the oils from your fingers can interfere with the acids working properly.
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Jan 26, 2021 08:49
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Fearless posted:When using any chemical treatment like a blackening solution or cold blue, it is a great idea to clean the metal first and thoroughly with acetone or some other degreaser as even just the oils from your fingers can interfere with the acids working properly. I use regular old white vinegar and a brush to clean up brass or other metal before using chemical blackening agents on it.
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Jan 27, 2021 04:22
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Boat stuff. I thought it might be interesting to show you guys a couple things. First, how the planks are pre-shaped in this kit, and Second, how much bending is still required to get those pre-shaped planks to actually go onto the frames. Here is one of the plank parts sheets. There are two like this, one for each side. They are identical side to side. I am about to remove plank number 3 (they are placed on the frames in numerical order). This is the 2nd strake (or row) of planks from the bottom and the stern (back) plank.  And here is the plank bent using heat to actually lay on the shape of the frames, shown from a few angles.    And finally, the plank (and number 4) in place on one side of the model. I failed to take any pictures between placing both these planks and drilling all the holes and placing the lines for the nails.   Here are some pictures after placing planks 3 and 4 on the other side of the model, both before and after nails.      I actually screwed up plank #4 on the 2nd side and was unable to fix it, so I had to cut out a new one, which the kit designer nicely left plenty of room on the plank sheet to do. I screwed up that one, and had to cut out a 2nd replacement, but finally got it done, yay.
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Jan 27, 2021 04:30
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So apparently there's a "Model building Simulator" game in the works: https://store.steampowered.com/app/1164250/Model_Builder/ I feel like all the things that make model building rewarding like finding a part that the carpet monster ate, getting glue fingerprints on a freshly clear coated body, or huffing lacquer fumes won't be properly simulated.
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Jan 27, 2021 05:14
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You never know, the digital Lego builder has the option to turn on scratches and UV fading in the render settings. Maybe this game will have tool deterioration and horrific scalpel impalings too. I'd say "who is this for?", but it'll probably find its audience. Might even be fun for testing out paint schemes.
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Jan 27, 2021 05:44
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FiskTireBoy posted:So apparently there's a "Model building Simulator" game in the works: I hope they will let you turn down the opacity of the airbrush. They were laying it on pretty thick. That being said, I will buy this. It will be cool if it uses actual kits so you can do a test run before building the actual model. edit: My intel i4 and GTX970 don't meet the minimum system requirements. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jan 27, 2021 |
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Jan 27, 2021 15:05
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I'd be more interested if it had Surgeon Simulator controls.
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Jan 28, 2021 01:15
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So I'm clearcoating my Porsche 911 model outside when a huge gust of wind blows the drat thing over. I caught it but got fingerprint smudges in the clear in various spots. The clearcoat was obviously wet, so it melted some of the paint all the way down to the plastic in some spots where my fingers touched it. Its pretty bad and I might have to redo the whole thing ugh. It wouldn't be a big deal except I'll lose the Porsche badge decal on the hood. Does anyone know if there's an aftermarket 1/24 Porsche badge decal available? Its a really old Revell kit so I doubt I could get it from them.
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Jan 29, 2021 00:10
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Throw Revell an email. You might get lucky.
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Jan 29, 2021 00:45
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FiskTireBoy posted:So I'm clearcoating my Porsche 911 model outside when a huge gust of wind blows the drat thing over. I caught it but got fingerprint smudges in the clear in various spots. The clearcoat was obviously wet, so it melted some of the paint all the way down to the plastic in some spots where my fingers touched it. Its pretty bad and I might have to redo the whole thing ugh. It wouldn't be a big deal except I'll lose the Porsche badge decal on the hood. Does anyone know if there's an aftermarket 1/24 Porsche badge decal available? Its a really old Revell kit so I doubt I could get it from them. Here is the scalemates database filtered by Porsche 1:24 decals. There are a whole lot of aftermarket sets listed, but the availability is pretty spotty: https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Decals&q=porsche*&fkTYPENAME[]=%22Decals%22&fkSCALENORMALISED[]=%221:00024%22&fkCATNAME[]=%22Cars%22 edit: the brackets in the URL are screwing up the BBCode. Just copy and paste the whole line. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 01:11
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Another thing that just occured to me. I can probably get a decal set for a Tamiya 911 since they have a couple Porsche models in current production (like the 996 GT3 I did) the badge is 1:24 so it should be fine on my Revell. And I think the Tamiya badge is a little nicer looking.
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Jan 29, 2021 02:31
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I nearly always keep the leftover decals from my kits cause you never know when they'll come in handy. I also tend to keep all of the offcuts from my carbon decal sheets because sometimes you just need a tiny scrap to patch up that corner that you managed to ruin right as you where finishing up with the decal setter.
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Jan 29, 2021 07:57
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Tell me if this is a bad idea (I suspect it is). I want to spray Tamiya spray paint indoors. I was thinking of opening the sliding glass door in my apartment and spraying in a box that has a fan pointed towards the open door. Its not the most efficient exhaust method but my hands are kind of tied right now. Its like 40 degrees outside so not very good spray paint weather.
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Jan 30, 2021 03:54
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do you have an organic vapor respirator
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Jan 30, 2021 04:09
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No, seriously, do you have a respirator rated for organic solvents ? A good 3M half-face mask plus filters goes for $40-45 bucks. Trying to cough a whiff of toluene out of your lungs, priceless.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:24
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As a corollary to the important questions above: does anyone live with you and do they have organic solvent respirators too?
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Jan 30, 2021 13:14
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Followup question: do you have pets ?
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Jan 30, 2021 15:37
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FiskTireBoy posted:Tell me if this is a bad idea (I suspect it is). I want to spray Tamiya spray paint indoors. I was thinking of opening the sliding glass door in my apartment and spraying in a box that has a fan pointed towards the open door. Its not the most efficient exhaust method but my hands are kind of tied right now. Its like 40 degrees outside so not very good spray paint weather. Spray cans do pump out a hell of a lot of fumes. I'd just take everything outside quick and spray it, then bring the parts back in and put them in the oven (turned off) to dry. Due to the thin film of grease coating the walls of the oven, there is little to no dust in there to mess up your paint job. Just put a note near the oven controls to remind yourself or anybody else your parts are inside so they don't start preheating it for a pizza.
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Jan 30, 2021 16:41
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Slowly making progress on the little boat. Last update had 2 strakes (rows of planking) done on each side, so I just continued from there, adding a plank or two and then drilling a bunch of little holes and putting the nails in. My hand kept cramping up on the pin-vise so I finally gave into the dark-side and started using the Dremel with flex cable attachment at some point (don't remember exactly where) to drill the holes and I've only screwed up a couple times. Luckily a tiny little #77 drillbit hole is super easy to fix, cut a little sliver of wood and dip into white glue and insert into the hole, cut off and sand across the hole while the glue is still wet. Completely disappears. 3rd strake going on both sides..        On to the 4th strake. The stern was kind of annoying and tricky as the plank has to curve in as it approaches the stern and then right at the end it bends back out, also twisting in and then twisting back out, and to complicate it a bit more, the entire plank has to have a bow to it to fit the curve of the stem. I mostly just brute forced it and used CA glue which I normally avoid like the plague in order to get it to stay in place with the curve.     The last 2 pictures show how much 10# line from the kit I have left after the 4th strake on only one side was completed. Hmm.. gonna run out me thinks! Oh well, on to the other side.  And here was where I ran out of the kit 10# line.   Luckily I had ordered some more to have in stock and in case I messed up too much somewhere, as well as to use on future models, but then I thought maybe I should measure the line and make sure it was the same. Kit 10# monofilament line - 0.0120". My 10# monofilament line 0.0105"... hmm... Oh well, hopefully the eyeball can't see the difference when used like this.. Onward to find out!      My eyeballs can't tell where the different lines are, so I'm gonna go with 'good enough'. I could probably refer to the pictures of where I ran out and maybe see it, but if I have to do that, then it's not enough difference visually to worry about.
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Jan 31, 2021 02:32
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FiskTireBoy posted:Tell me if this is a bad idea (I suspect it is). I want to spray Tamiya spray paint indoors. I was thinking of opening the sliding glass door in my apartment and spraying in a box that has a fan pointed towards the open door. Its not the most efficient exhaust method but my hands are kind of tied right now. Its like 40 degrees outside so not very good spray paint weather. I've done this once, your whole apartment will smell like spray paint for an hour or so no matter how good you think your exhaust setup is. If you want to wear a respirator the whole time, more power to you.
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Jan 31, 2021 04:15
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FiskTireBoy posted:Tell me if this is a bad idea (I suspect it is). I want to spray Tamiya spray paint indoors. I was thinking of opening the sliding glass door in my apartment and spraying in a box that has a fan pointed towards the open door. Its not the most efficient exhaust method but my hands are kind of tied right now. Its like 40 degrees outside so not very good spray paint weather. It's quite possible to spray outside in cold temperatures. Plop the spray can in a bowl of warm water for a bit first, go outside, spray as quickly as possible, then bring everything back in to dry.
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Jan 31, 2021 19:12
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