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GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


I totally bought a house for my hound dog.

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Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



GoodBee posted:

I totally bought a house for my hound dog.

My biggest concern with my new pup is him barking when I’m gone. I work from home until at least April (though I would love to keep doing it longer) and my office is about 30 minutes away, so there’s no way I can come home at lunch.

This apartment actually didn’t allow dogs, but when I told the landlord I was moving out specifically because I was getting a dog, he changed his mind. My pet contract does have a “landlord can revoke this right and dog must be gone in 30 days” clause, so I’m just worried if he barks when I’m gone my neighbors will get pissed and call him.

I made it clear though that if I the dog goes I go. I’d lose out on my deposit, but whatever.

Facebook Aunt
Oct 4, 2008

wiggle wiggle




Looking for advice about nail Dremel things for dogs. Specifically if there is any advantage to one brand or type of head that is better or worse than others. Just the regular sandpaper heads you can get for pennies on aliexpress, or some $$$ thing from the local pet boutique? I assume everything by Hartz is trash, but other than that I have no idea.


Background: My mom has an assistance dog, Mocha. She is exquisitely well trained and practically perfect in almost every way, but has ridiculous over the top anxiety about getting her nails trimmed. She's a black lab with thick black nails, so the obvious answer is that at some point in her past one of her handlers hosed it up. She's also 55lbs and strong as hell, unable to be subdued when she's in a panic. The vet has tried drugging her to the gills on anti-anxiety meds and still only managed to do half her nails in one visit. So the trainer suggested getting her a rotary grinder thing and spend weeks getting her used to it and associating it with food before we try it on her nails. We have a training plan, just no idea if it makes a difference what brand device we use.

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



People in the Deb Jones Cooperative care group suggest the dremel 8220 or the discontinued 8050 if you can find it. They also really like the diamagroove “boxer” bit for tough nails.

Personally I’m perfectly happy with the cheap dremel and bulk medium sanding bands I got at Walmart and think that’s a perfectly reasonable place to start.

While you’re working through your cooperative care plan you might want to look into teaching the dog to do its own nails on a scratch board. That’s what I do for my puppy who just can’t stand still long enough to do her nails for her.
https://youtu.be/72p84uZUZhY

Facebook Aunt
Oct 4, 2008

wiggle wiggle




Good, that's about what I thought. Just checking so I wouldn't later find out everyone knows that if you don't use a PediPaws brand nail grinder you are a monster or something.

That board looks cool too. She's a very smart and trainable girl, so she should be able to learn the front paws scratch pretty easily.

Thanks!

Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



What’s the best way to start socializing my puppy before he’s had all his shots? He still needs another round in 3 weeks, and one final one the week after that. I’d like to take him somewhere, but I know it’s kind of advised against doing that before they’ve finished their shots. It’s also about to be in the negative Fahrenheit here by this weekend.

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011


How long should I continue drilling on the same tricks when trying to teach a dog? If she seems to do well with 'sit' to where she basically always sits when I have treats, do I ever do a round of training where I ONLY ask her to sit or do I just work that in alongside whatever command I'm actually working on?

Stated in another way, I know each training session should really just focus on one new trick because you don't want to confuse the dog, so if I'm working on 'look at me' and 'shake' as the two new tricks we work on sometimes, should I mix 'sit' 'stay' and 'come' in with the 'look at me' training sessions, or should I still occasionally do 'stay' all on it's own to make sure she understands it real well?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

My take on it is that you should definitely mix it up. The dog has to listen to what you ask and not just repeat the trick.
For brand new behaviours, sure, focus on it and work towards progress, but once progress stalls, don't be afraid to break up the session with other tricks.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Yorkshire Pudding posted:

What’s the best way to start socializing my puppy before he’s had all his shots? He still needs another round in 3 weeks, and one final one the week after that. I’d like to take him somewhere, but I know it’s kind of advised against doing that before they’ve finished their shots. It’s also about to be in the negative Fahrenheit here by this weekend.

Wear a bunch of different hats and weird clothes around him? Take him for car ride through a bunch of drive thrus? A bunch of places give out dog treats.

MF_James
May 8, 2008
I CANNOT HANDLE BEING CALLED OUT ON MY DUMBASS OPINIONS ABOUT ANTI-VIRUS AND SECURITY. I REALLY LIKE TO THINK THAT I KNOW THINGS HERE

INSTEAD I AM GOING TO WHINE ABOUT IT IN OTHER THREADS SO MY OPINION CAN FEEL VALIDATED IN AN ECHO CHAMBER I LIKE

Yeah you should definitely continue drilling older tricks to some degree, but they just don't generate the same reward as new actions do.

I generally use 2 different treats for training, one very high value and one of lesser value. Tricks that are new get high value treats, tricks that are older but not at the level of being 100%'d yet get the lesser value treats, and commands that are already at 100% get some admiration not a treat; the already known commands that do not receive a treat are good for resetting to a baseline, calming down and giving my pup a moment to focus again after praise+treat.

For training I will work 1 new item, 1 known but not perfect and then use the other basic commands (sit/down/stay) to break up the monotony; something i noticed early on was that Willie would do a thing but not really understand it, so if I drilled the same command he would repeat the action but not really understand command + action as a whole; I'm bad at explaining this but it really just seemed like he was cueing hard off of me rather than learning the command.

Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



GoodBee posted:

Wear a bunch of different hats and weird clothes around him? Take him for car ride through a bunch of drive thrus? A bunch of places give out dog treats.

Drive through is a good idea. I know Starbucks do those puppachinos.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Yorkshire Pudding posted:

Drive through is a good idea. I know Starbucks do those puppachinos.

I like getting coffee and dog treats when the weather is gross. Sometimes we get chicken nuggets.

Fart Car '97
Jul 23, 2003

My 8 month old dog's developed the habit of chewing on his blankets out of nowhere. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when he does it, other than he's just generally obsessed with chewing on things made of fabric. Sometime's he'll nap happily for hours, other times we'll look up he'll just be chomping away. We just take his blankets away from him any time he starts but it doesn't seem like that phases him at all. Is there anything we can do other than remove the blanket?

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



Yorkshire Pudding posted:

What’s the best way to start socializing my puppy before he’s had all his shots? He still needs another round in 3 weeks, and one final one the week after that. I’d like to take him somewhere, but I know it’s kind of advised against doing that before they’ve finished their shots. It’s also about to be in the negative Fahrenheit here by this weekend.

Covid socialization articles:
https://denisefenzi.com/2020/05/car-socialization/

https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/socialize-puppy-times-social-distancing/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU4tfOdTvnE

Also if there are any puppy classes or socialization times going on someplace safe you should absolutely check them out. In a lot of areas, a lack of early socialization is way more of a risk than parvo (not all, ask your vet about prevalence in your area).


Agent355 posted:

Stated in another way, I know each training session should really just focus on one new trick because you don't want to confuse the dog, so if I'm working on 'look at me' and 'shake' as the two new tricks we work on sometimes, should I mix 'sit' 'stay' and 'come' in with the 'look at me' training sessions, or should I still occasionally do 'stay' all on it's own to make sure she understands it real well?

My dogs would be so bored if we did a training session of just one thing. Mix it up and see how she does. If I'm teaching a brand new skill I'll just do that but if they have the basics of a few things down we'll do a bunch of stuff in a session. When they're solid on a behavior add distance, duration, and distraction then work on stimulus control (they do the action only when cued, not just randomly) and reducing reinforcement.


Fart Car '97 posted:

My 8 month old dog's developed the habit of chewing on his blankets out of nowhere. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when he does it, other than he's just generally obsessed with chewing on things made of fabric. Sometime's he'll nap happily for hours, other times we'll look up he'll just be chomping away. We just take his blankets away from him any time he starts but it doesn't seem like that phases him at all. Is there anything we can do other than remove the blanket?

Puppies have a secondary chewing phase after they have their adult teeth, usually starting around 8 months old. My 10 month old is in this right now and also loves chewing fabric. I've been replacing fabric with appropriate chews whenever she's in the shred zone and only allowing fabric items when I'm supervising but I think it's just going to take a while for her to get out of it. If you want something comfy in his crate or wherever look into primo pads, they're fairly shred proof. I wouldn't risk a blockage by leaving him with blankets unsupervised right now if he's doing it regularly.

Fart Car '97
Jul 23, 2003

Instant Jellyfish posted:

Covid socialization articles:
https://denisefenzi.com/2020/05/car-socialization/

https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/socialize-puppy-times-social-distancing/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU4tfOdTvnE

Also if there are any puppy classes or socialization times going on someplace safe you should absolutely check them out. In a lot of areas, a lack of early socialization is way more of a risk than parvo (not all, ask your vet about prevalence in your area).


My dogs would be so bored if we did a training session of just one thing. Mix it up and see how she does. If I'm teaching a brand new skill I'll just do that but if they have the basics of a few things down we'll do a bunch of stuff in a session. When they're solid on a behavior add distance, duration, and distraction then work on stimulus control (they do the action only when cued, not just randomly) and reducing reinforcement.


Puppies have a secondary chewing phase after they have their adult teeth, usually starting around 8 months old. My 10 month old is in this right now and also loves chewing fabric. I've been replacing fabric with appropriate chews whenever she's in the shred zone and only allowing fabric items when I'm supervising but I think it's just going to take a while for her to get out of it. If you want something comfy in his crate or wherever look into primo pads, they're fairly shred proof. I wouldn't risk a blockage by leaving him with blankets unsupervised right now if he's doing it regularly.

Yeah he isn't allowed blankets unless we're with him

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011


Thanks for training advice, will work on it.

I had to go out for a few hours tonight so Ellie of course went ballistic when I came back home.

She's so funny because she badly wants to play/interact/get pats when I get home however she's simply so wound up she CANT HELP but playbite whatever is in frotn of her face. Like constant nipping.

She knows she isn't s upposed to and will mostly grab a toy to chew on to help her control it but you can see the little wheels turn in her head "I really want to get attention but I MUST BITE THIS MAN"

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





I enjoy reading about everyone's dogs, but mostly I just want to see pup photos pronto. Is there a separate thread for this?

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Unsinkabear posted:

I enjoy reading about everyone's dogs, but mostly I just want to see pup photos pronto. Is there a separate thread for this?

The dog photo thread is in GIP: get yer dogs here

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011





Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





StrixNebulosa posted:

The dog photo thread is in GIP: get yer dogs here

Thanks!


:swoon:

Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.









StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA



Apollo is Sad because he is no longer outside playing in the snow.

cailleask
May 6, 2007





sleepy puppy is sleepy

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Pavlov stole my sock!

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009


Love your hound <3 reminds me of my own, a little.






I'm getting a new car this weekend :toot: What do you guys use to help protect the interior of your cars from fur and dirt? I go hiking with the girls pretty often and they love to get muddy/dirty/wet

I was thinking of just getting a bunch of blankets from the thrift store and absolutely covering everything, but is there anything I can do to protect the doors /arm rests and such?

Fart Car '97
Jul 23, 2003

I have this and I love it: https://www.chewy.com/frisco-quilte...AIaAnHFEALw_wcB

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.




I have something similar but in a hammock style and it's great. My puppy chewed the hell out of it before I got her travel crate but it still does a pretty good job protecting the seat when I need to transport my older dogs and I have used it in the cargo area when transporting livestock. If it can stand up to sheep using it as a pen it can handle some dog mess.

Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



Is it okay for me to take Gobi around dogs I know are vaccinated before he’s had his final round of shots? I want to go introduce him to my parents dog, which is about his size and would be good to play with, but he has one more round (including, I believe, rabies) because he’s not quite 16 weeks yet.

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



Yorkshire Pudding posted:

Is it okay for me to take Gobi around dogs I know are vaccinated before he’s had his final round of shots? I want to go introduce him to my parents dog, which is about his size and would be good to play with, but he has one more round (including, I believe, rabies) because he’s not quite 16 weeks yet.

16 weeks is when their critical socialization period ends so you definitely want to introduce him to safe adult dogs before then. Just monitor their interactions to make sure it is a fun time for everyone.

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011




Result of a successful walk.

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

This is kind of a dumb question....but what are y'all using to post images. I'd like to contribute pup photos

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Omne posted:

This is kind of a dumb question....but what are y'all using to post images. I'd like to contribute pup photos

I use https://postimages.org/ or imgur

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011




Managed to catch the pup in her gremlin cosplay.

Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



Instant Jellyfish posted:

16 weeks is when their critical socialization period ends so you definitely want to introduce him to safe adult dogs before then. Just monitor their interactions to make sure it is a fun time for everyone.

I’ve been trying to get him out, but with it being winter and covid I haven’t had many opportunities. I may bring him to see some dogs my family knows soon. I’d like to take him to a “puppy training” class, but will he be okay without all his shots?

Fart Car '97
Jul 23, 2003

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



Yorkshire Pudding posted:

I’ve been trying to get him out, but with it being winter and covid I haven’t had many opportunities. I may bring him to see some dogs my family knows soon. I’d like to take him to a “puppy training” class, but will he be okay without all his shots?

Ask the place what their rules are but it is probably fine. Most puppy classes expect them to be too young to have their full series and sanitize accordingly.

Racing Stripe
Oct 22, 2003

This is a bit of a long one, but a lot of context is necessary to understand the situation that my girlfriend, new dog, and I are dealing with. Also I posted about this a few weeks ago and got some helpful responses, but have not been able to resolve the situation.

We got this dog from a rescue after providing a lot of information about our living situation, which is an apartment, no outdoor space, in the city. Nearby parks and green space, but very much a high population density area. He's a 40-pound, 12 - 16 month old mix whom we've named Grendel and we love him very much.



He's sweet and great and taking to training very well. He sleeps through the night and doesn't chew on everything he can get a hold of. Unfortunately, he is extremely reactive when he's on a leash. If he sees another dog closer than 100 feet away or so, he goes into an unhinged barking fit and has to be dragged away. We've sought advice for this (both on this forum and with trainers and online and in books) and the most common advice seems to be to start treating him when he first notices the dog. In this way, he'll build a positive association and be distracted by the treats. We've been trying this, and we're successful some of the time, but in 80% of cases we don't see the dog until it's too close and he flips out immediately. He can't take treats when he's in that state, so it's a setback or a missed training opportunity or another time when he gets to practice an undesired behavior. We have taken him to day care where he played great with the other dogs, so we know it's frustration at not being able to play with the dogs, or something else leash-related.

We've explained this all to trainers and to the adoption agency, but they just can't get the reality of our situation into their heads. They keep recommending things like "when you see another dog just walk away!" or "try to go out at times when you won't see other dogs." Not bad advice, but we've already rearranged our schedules to take him out at the lowest-traffic times. Both of us go out every time so that one can scout around corners and we're always ready with handfuls of chicken to try to distract him. There are just too many dogs in this neighborhood, though. We can't shorten his walks further; we're already hurrying around the corner into the secluded alley as fast as possible and we still get caught by another dog half the time. We get up at 5:30 AM to take him for a bit more exercise before all the other dogs are out, and again we still run into other dogs pretty often at that time. We take him for walks in the woods sometimes, but we still have to get to and from the car, and there can be other dogs out on the trail.

We hate the thought of sending him away, but we have to wonder whether this is a happy life for him. He's pretty constantly on edge, between his getting too little exercise and his once, twice, or three times daily stressful encounters with dogs. Maybe we were a bit irresponsible in getting a dog, but tons of other dogs live in our neighborhood in apartments and don't have this problem. The adoption agency let us adopt this dog knowing about our situation, but his reactivity hadn't emerged yet and everything seemed fine at the start. Now, when we asked them if they thought this might just be a bad fit for him, they said both that "reactivity can eventually lead to aggression" and that we're more worried than we should be about the whole thing. He's getting more prone to barking at people now, and barking while we're in the hallways of the apartment building.

So, I know you can't solve our problem, but I'm wondering if the thread has any opinion on a) whether this just sounds like a bad situation for the dog b) whether aging out of adolescence is likely to help or c) whether we should be worried that he'll start getting aggressive. Like I said, we don't want to send him away. We love him, and we're willing to give this time. What we can't do is make any changes to his routine that will make him less likely to see other dogs. That is 100% impossible. So he either can get trained out of this, age out of it, or get sent away. I'm just really worried that the last option is the only realistic one.

Racing Stripe fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Feb 5, 2021

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Yorkshire Pudding
Nov 24, 2006



Instant Jellyfish posted:

Ask the place what their rules are but it is probably fine. Most puppy classes expect them to be too young to have their full series and sanitize accordingly.

I went ahead and signed up, going in tomorrow. They just asked that your puppy has “age appropriate shots”, and since the class starts at 8 weeks he should be all good. They said they’re mostly just worried about Parvo, but they have some disinfectants when you come in.

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