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Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

feelix posted:

Any thoughts on the Buick Regal wagon? I've been a domestic hater my whole life and it's obviously not a small manual car but I'm down with a big wagon that's not an SUV.

They were recommended a lot on here, not sure how they've held up over time. You were able to get them at a decent discount.

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
They're competent. I considered one instead of the Alltrack, but I preferred the manual transmission of the Alltrack. They're not exciting but they are pleasant enough to drive in terms of quiet and comfort. It's not a car that likes urgency. It probably handles better in corners than an Equinox but you won't mistake it for a 3-series wagon or even an A4 Allroad.

Nothing's too new or fancy - it was late in lifecycle of the Regal/Insignia so everything should be decently ironed out, it's using an ecotec engine that's been around forever, there's nothing particularly new about the transmission, etc. They were very cheap for a while. If you can find one at a good price I don't think there's any reason NOT to buy one.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

arbybaconator posted:

Figures I discover the Car Buying thread AFTER ordering my vehicle.

I have a 2021 Ford F150 Limited Powerboost incoming in a few months. I'm very excited about all of it's quirks and features.

You’ll probably like it. I had a 2017 Limited that I loved until it was murdered at a stoplight by a bad person. Still haven’t decided what to replace it with.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

skipdogg posted:

Probably for the best. Enjoy the new truck. Not really much to discuss as there’s almost never a decent discount on a limited trim, and some of the regulars here would probably have a fit at the idea of someone dropping over 70k on a truck.

When I bought mine the discount available on the limited was the same as most other trims. The only trim you couldn’t get a deal on was the Raptor which of course will basically always be that way and they had an extra rebate on XLTs at the time but lariat/platinum/king ranch/limited were all basically the same in terms of discount. It appears to be the same right now (though all rebates are poo poo right now due to time of year and limited production and the fact that the 150 is a new model).

arbybaconator
Dec 18, 2007

All hat and no cattle

bird with big dick posted:

When I bought mine the discount available on the limited was the same as most other trims. The only trim you couldn’t get a deal on was the Raptor which of course will basically always be that way and they had an extra rebate on XLTs at the time but lariat/platinum/king ranch/limited were all basically the same in terms of discount. It appears to be the same right now (though all rebates are poo poo right now due to time of year and limited production and the fact that the 150 is a new model).

I did pretty well on discount, I think. I got an amazing quote from a dealer in Iowa, and shopped it around to 20+ dealers in Texas. One of my local dealers ended up matching it. 3% off Invoice, (9.3% off MSRP) before rebates and TTL. Almost every other dealer laughed at me. One local dealer acted incredibly offended that I even asked them to match.

Car shopping is so silly.

arbybaconator fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Feb 13, 2021

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

arbybaconator posted:

I did pretty well on discount, I think. I got an amazing quote from a dealer in Iowa, and shopped it around to 20+ dealers in Texas. One of my local dealers ended up matching it. 3% off Invoice, (9.3% off MSRP) before rebates and TTL. Almost every other dealer laughed at me. One local dealer acted incredibly offended that I even asked them to match.

Car shopping is so silly.



I wish I understood how stuff like this works. 3% below invoice, before rebates seems like an insane price, but clearly they're making money still?

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Residency Evil posted:

I wish I understood how stuff like this works. 3% below invoice, before rebates seems like an insane price, but clearly they're making money still?

Holdbacks, dealership volume incentives, etc

TheWevel
Apr 14, 2002
Send Help; Trapped in Stupid Factory
The cool thing about the Powerboost is that you can get it on the BFC approved XLT trim.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

arbybaconator posted:

I did pretty well on discount, I think. I got an amazing quote from a dealer in Iowa, and shopped it around to 20+ dealers in Texas. One of my local dealers ended up matching it. 3% off Invoice, (9.3% off MSRP) before rebates and TTL. Almost every other dealer laughed at me. One local dealer acted incredibly offended that I even asked them to match.

Car shopping is so silly.



That's about the same deal I got in 2017 so I'd say that's a great deal for right now considering that 2021s are new and in limited supply. Mostly shopping back and forth between the huge Ford dealerships in/around Las Vegas that have like 350 fuckin F-150s on the lot. Nearly ended up with the Diamond White or whatever they call it but then one of them came through on a price match with my preferred color, Blue Jeans.

Before I bought the 2017 I was dealing (in February) on a leftover 2016 Lariat and my lovely rear end local (Reno) dealership wouldn't even go below invoice on a leftover. Some dealers are just not even worth talking to.

Which dealer in Iowa? I actually was a salesman at Deery Brother's Ford in Iowa back in the day.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

PCjr sidecar posted:

Holdbacks, dealership volume incentives, etc

Yeah that's it, but it just makes things even more opaque as a buyer. I guess the best we can continue to do is e-mail a bunch of dealers and see what happens. :shrug:

arbybaconator
Dec 18, 2007

All hat and no cattle

bird with big dick posted:

That's about the same deal I got in 2017 so I'd say that's a great deal for right now considering that 2021s are new and in limited supply. Mostly shopping back and forth between the huge Ford dealerships in/around Las Vegas that have like 350 fuckin F-150s on the lot. Nearly ended up with the Diamond White or whatever they call it but then one of them came through on a price match with my preferred color, Blue Jeans.

Before I bought the 2017 I was dealing (in February) on a leftover 2016 Lariat and my lovely rear end local (Reno) dealership wouldn't even go below invoice on a leftover. Some dealers are just not even worth talking to.

Which dealer in Iowa? I actually was a salesman at Deery Brother's Ford in Iowa back in the day.

Grainger Ford. Their guy is really active on the f150gen14 and new bronco forums. They do a TON of internet orders. I was ready to fly out there and drive home if I didn’t find a dealer to match.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

That’s a smoking deal on that truck. I mean you can get the XLT chrome and tow package trucks for 14-16k off the highly inflated msrp all day every day, but the deals aren’t as good on the upper trim models. If that hit the lot it’d probably sell for full sticker.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
If I only really drive around my wife and I most of the time, almost never have passengers, but would still like sedan-ish cargo space, are there any makes/models to consider? Android Auto is a must-have, no older than 2017, and I'd really like a nice upscale interior - if it's beige or any other color than All Jet Black Everywhere, those are fine too. Not really looking for BMW/MB/Audi/Jag parts and repair costs. I'd be willing to give a shot at a US manufacturer as long as it's not falling apart.

Budget is maybe $25k out the door, not looking for more than 15k average miles per year. Doesn't have to be a Luxury Brand as long as the interior is nice enough and the ride is quiet.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
If you think the interior of the top trim Accord is sufficiently nice, you should buy that.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

arbybaconator posted:

Grainger Ford. Their guy is really active on the f150gen14 and new bronco forums. They do a TON of internet orders. I was ready to fly out there and drive home if I didn’t find a dealer to match.

That's good to know. Could fly and drive and do a visit to the friends and relatives still in Iowa all at once.

mpeg4v3
Apr 8, 2004
that lurker in the corner
Hi Car Buying Thread, I'm finally in need of a replacement for my old beater and I know next to nothing about cars. I'd normally spend weeks researching the hell out of a big purchase like this on my own, but the car market requires a lot of knowledge to make an informed decision, finding time to figure it out is very difficult right now, and recent life events have made it so that I need to get this done relatively soon, so here I am, selfishly demanding that you all help me figure it out instead. My requirements might be entirely unreasonable for the budget, and I would welcome being put in my place if so.

Proposed Budget: $30k or less, although $25k or less would be preferred
New or Used: Leaning New, but would be okay with Used if it's certified pre-owned and not too old
Body Style: 4-door Sedan, compact or mid-size
How will you be using the car? City driving for errands once or twice a week, and 1,000 mile round trips once a month or so over the next year, rarely ever having passengers. It'll largely be left sitting in an uncovered parking spot the rest of the time. Luxury gizmos aren't that important to me, but I would like to try to get something with Android Auto and a rear camera.
What aspects are most important to you? Reliability (I'm really bad at routine maintenance), MPG (would prefer a hybrid, can't do plug-in electrics), tall-friendly (I'm 6'5"), good visibility, good turn radius.

Further context: I've never purchased a car before, having always had the privilege to get hand-me-downs. I've been driving a manual 1992 Nissan Sentra for close to 11 years, and before that an automatic 1985 Honda Accord for 6 years. I'm not a big fan of driving and normally take a free shuttle to work, so the age of my car hasn't been an issue due to the rare use it sees. But, it's finally on its last legs, and due to some recent family issues I've needed to start making the occasional long drive home (which I've been renting a car to do so far). I'm also hoping to get out of my anti-social depressive rut once COVID has passed, and so it'd be good to not have to drive a dirty, rusted out shitbucket to every social event anymore.

I'm not much of a visual person, and so I don't really care about looks and amenities that much as long as it can get me from A to B and back without breaking down all the time. The only feature I really care about is the ability to play audio from my phone (via wired or wireless means), which it seems like pretty much everything has these days. However, I would like to buy something that I could use for the next decade, so some degree of comfort would be good to have, just as long as that doesn't require getting a box on wheels or a PT Cruiser.

So far, based on all I've heard about never going wrong with a Honda or Toyota, I've briefly looked at the 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid, the 2021 Toyota Prius L Eco, and the 2021 Toyota Camry LE Hybrid, but I'm not really sure what I should be looking for with them, or what other makes and models I should be considering. I'd be fine with something used from the last few years, as long as it's certified pre-owned or similar.

Financing: My plan is to put down half the cost ($10-15k) and do a loan through my credit union to pay off the remainder over time. I really want to avoid dealing with scummy car dealerships as much as possible, and my credit union also offers car purchasing via partnership with Costco's Auto Program service, so I was thinking I'd likely try to do the entire purchase through them.

I'd welcome any and all advice anyone may have, especially if you think I'm being an idiot with my thinking on any of it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





mpeg4v3 posted:

My requirements might be entirely unreasonable for the budget

They are not, rear view cameras have been legally required on everything since 2018, and they weren't exactly rare on most models before that. Android Auto also has fairly wide availability in most models that aren't sold solely on a dirt cheap price.

quote:

Proposed Budget: $30k or less, although $25k or less would be preferred
New or Used: Leaning New, but would be okay with Used if it's certified pre-owned and not too old

I know you say later that you want to deal with the dealership as little as possible but if you're buying new, it may be worth considering their subsidized financing. Even if your credit union is giving you good rates, they aren't going to do 0% like a manufacturer might. This will need to be balanced against any other incentives that do/don't come with that financing - in a lot of cases the purchase price might end up a bit higher, though when I bought my one new car there was actually an extra $750 discount for getting below-market financing from Honda. Also, with interest rates as stupid low as they can be right now, I don't know that I'd want to tie up $10k in cash in a car if you don't need to.

quote:

Reliability (I'm really bad at routine maintenance)

Literally no modern car that you would be legitimately considering is "unreliable", but keeping on top of maintenance is a big part of what makes a car "reliable". Modern cars also require next to no maintenance - if you do 15k miles a year you might only need two oil changes in that time.

quote:

So far, based on all I've heard about never going wrong with a Honda or Toyota, I've briefly looked at the 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid, the 2021 Toyota Prius L Eco, and the 2021 Toyota Camry LE Hybrid, but I'm not really sure what I should be looking for with them, or what other makes and models I should be considering. I'd be fine with something used from the last few years, as long as it's certified pre-owned or similar.

CPO is literally nothing more than a manufacturer-backed extended warranty program. The "requirements" a car needs to meet to be eligible are extremely basic and they don't actually mean a CPO used car is any better than a non-CPO used car, or that it's gone through any substantive inspection. And again, balance this against the current new prices on the models you're looking at. Once you stack on a CPO warranty cost, a low-mileage lightly used car that's in high demand can cost nearly as much as a brand new one, minus the aforementioned subsidized lending.

Any of those cars you mentioned would be fine, but as a fellow tall person you're going to have to go test drive them to see how you actually fit in them. At 6'4" I wouldn't say I've found any Prius I've been in (which doesn't include the current generation) to be uncomfortable... but I'd rank every Accord I've been in above every Prius I've been in. Of course, you also don't mention having even the slightest care about how the car drives, so you might very well prefer the Prius or the Camry.

Costco Auto Program: Never used it, but by all accounts it's generally low-hassle. You won't get the best deal but you will get a decent one.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
IOC pretty well covered it but I am begging you to get better at routine maintenance. It will save you money in the long run. A modern car will pop up a little warning in the dash at set mileage intervals. Listen to it.

Accord or Camry hybrid is fine. If you look at the Toyotas, be careful if you go used because Toyota is from the loving dark ages and began adding Android Auto to their cars in about 2019. I'll throw in the Honda Insight as well, but I don't think you need to add anything other than that to the list. It's smaller than the Accord but would still be quite a bit bigger than your Sentra, and it's a bit cheaper. You should go sit in all of these cars and test drive them because your comfort is very important and you really do not want to spend 25k on something you don't end up liking. Test driving the Insight, Accord, Prius, and Camry will take you approximately 2 total hours.

If you're planning to drive the car in to the ground, buying used isn't that much of a deal, especially for high demand low depreciation cars like Hondas and Toyotas.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Agreed on the maintenance part. Gone are the days of putting dino juice in a car 4-6 times per year depending on mileage. Follow the manufacturer recommendations for service intervals and have some mechanical sympathy and practically any modern car will give you many years of worry free travel. Asking for a car that is reliable without maintenance is like asking for a goldfish that won't die if you forget to feed it.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin
Alternatively if you have access to charging facilities, consider a heavily depreciated Nissan Leaf with enough battery life left for your use case, and just rent a car for your 1,000 mile trips. Also takes care of the maintenance question.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Throatwarbler posted:

Alternatively if you have access to charging facilities, consider a heavily depreciated Nissan Leaf with enough battery life left for your use case, and just rent a car for your 1,000 mile trips. Also takes care of the maintenance question.

OP said they can't do plug-in.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

feelix posted:

Any thoughts on the Buick Regal wagon? I've been a domestic hater my whole life and it's obviously not a small manual car but I'm down with a big wagon that's not an SUV.

I was also interested in them, but all the reviews I read about it complained about the transmission and I really can't stand bad automatic transmissions so I didn't even bother looking at any. The gist of the complaints was it has too many gears and can't decide what gear it wants to be in, no bueno.

DanTheFryingPan
Jan 28, 2006
Helping my mom to replace her car, and looking for some more options. She's got a Toyota Yaris Verso from like 2004, and she'd just get another one if the model was still around. She's got a bad back so she needs something that's a similar body style: tall and easy to get into. Most modern CUVs aren't nearly tall enough even though the seat is pretty high up. She's willing to forgo some of the cargo space as long as the seat fits her. Short wheelbase with a good turning circle is a big plus. So far she's sat in a VW Touran and it worked well for her.

So far I've been looking at other options like Kia Soul, VW Caddy, Toyota Verso, Proace City Verso.

Proposed Budget: Pref under €15k, possible up to €20k. This is in Finland, so prices tend to be higher and there aren't as many different models available as elsewhere.
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Minivan or minivan'ish, automatic
How will you be using the car?: Picking up her grandkid, hauling gardening equipment, normal daily driving. She does about 7000-8000 km per year.
What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, practicality, good gas mileage, also see above

Thanks goons!

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

DanTheFryingPan posted:

Helping my mom to replace her car, and looking for some more options. She's got a Toyota Yaris Verso from like 2004, and she'd just get another one if the model was still around. She's got a bad back so she needs something that's a similar body style: tall and easy to get into. Most modern CUVs aren't nearly tall enough even though the seat is pretty high up. She's willing to forgo some of the cargo space as long as the seat fits her. Short wheelbase with a good turning circle is a big plus. So far she's sat in a VW Touran and it worked well for her.

So far I've been looking at other options like Kia Soul, VW Caddy, Toyota Verso, Proace City Verso.

Proposed Budget: Pref under €15k, possible up to €20k. This is in Finland, so prices tend to be higher and there aren't as many different models available as elsewhere.
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Minivan or minivan'ish, automatic
How will you be using the car?: Picking up her grandkid, hauling gardening equipment, normal daily driving. She does about 7000-8000 km per year.
What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, practicality, good gas mileage, also see above

Thanks goons!

At 7-8000 km per year, reliability and gas mileage won't matter very much. She should just try cars until she finds one that is comfortable to get in and out of and drive.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Unfortunately that compact MPV class has kind of been erased by compact CUV.

Did you get the Ford B-Max in Finland? Those are pretty neat, and have a sliding rear door with no B-pillar that might help with ingress/egress (or not, if she likes to grab on to the B-pillar for support... either way). Maybe the C3 Picasso, Renault Modus would be worth checking out as well.

Kia Soul is a good option for sure. The Touran is pretty good too. The Golf Sportsvan is the same with a shorter trunk if she prefers a bit less length and if you can find one. Also worth seeing if the Skoda Roomster would fit the bill, although they are getting a bit long in the tooth now.

Disclaimer from me is that I know nothing about Euro automatic transmissions because for small cars I avoid them like the plague.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Any good reasons to get talked out of a 2013 3.8 genesis? I've searched a bit but can't find anything major.

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/KMHGC4DD4DU238230?sourceSiteId=10&partner=VSN_0

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
I've got a car selling question.

How much fixing-up of paint and cosmetic issues should I do on a car that I want to sell via private party? If I do take the plunge into nextcar, I'd want to sell my Legacy. It has two spots on the front fascia that have paint chips down to primer, both slightly bigger than a silver dollar. There's also some dings on the upper part of the door panels thanks to an oak tree branch. No paint scrapes, just dents.

I feel like I shouldn't even bother, given that neither set of issues is a cheap fix, along with the usual paint and internal wear. It sounds like it's at the low to mid range of KBB "good" value. Mechanically sound, it's just been bonked by jerks and trees.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
this is highly dependent on how much it's worth but i'd be inclined to say no, especially because paint chips that large are not self-repairable.

the dents and dings can probably be PDR'd for less than a hundred bucks and I'd be inclined to do that.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





MJP posted:

I've got a car selling question.

How much fixing-up of paint and cosmetic issues should I do on a car that I want to sell via private party? If I do take the plunge into nextcar, I'd want to sell my Legacy. It has two spots on the front fascia that have paint chips down to primer, both slightly bigger than a silver dollar. There's also some dings on the upper part of the door panels thanks to an oak tree branch. No paint scrapes, just dents.

I feel like I shouldn't even bother, given that neither set of issues is a cheap fix, along with the usual paint and internal wear. It sounds like it's at the low to mid range of KBB "good" value. Mechanically sound, it's just been bonked by jerks and trees.

Up to you on a cost/benefit basis. You'll be surprised how much having clear photos of a well-cleaned car will help when selling. I've gotten more on sales by giving the car a thorough cleaning immediately pre-sale, including things like a headlight restoration. I've also paid less on purchases by showing up with cash before the seller has bothered to so much as vacuum it out.

There are certainly ways to make paint damage (even that large) look "better" without going all the way to a full panel respray, if you want to put the work in. But if what you're really asking is "should I pay a bodyshop to fix these issues", the answer is almost certainly no.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

MJP posted:

I've got a car selling question.

How much fixing-up of paint and cosmetic issues should I do on a car that I want to sell via private party? If I do take the plunge into nextcar, I'd want to sell my Legacy. It has two spots on the front fascia that have paint chips down to primer, both slightly bigger than a silver dollar. There's also some dings on the upper part of the door panels thanks to an oak tree branch. No paint scrapes, just dents.

I feel like I shouldn't even bother, given that neither set of issues is a cheap fix, along with the usual paint and internal wear. It sounds like it's at the low to mid range of KBB "good" value. Mechanically sound, it's just been bonked by jerks and trees.

If you can do it so the repaint is invisible, it's good. Otherwise, the blemish is still there. You'll know it looks better than it used to, but the buyer won't.

The cost to have it done professionally will be more than you gain in the value of the car, otherwise.

So I'd recommend just leaving it. The new owner can touch it up if they want to.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

The last car I sold I got a pro detail on for like $150 and it almost made me not want to sell the car it looked so good.

A detailed car with good photos and a well-written informative ad will go a long way to moving it quickly for a good price.

Whether the detail is worth it really depends on what sort of car we're talking about. A 15 year old Corolla no way. A 5 year old Lexus ya for sure. If it's an older cheaper car just a real good thorough car wash and vacuum gets you pretty far since most people can't even be arsed to do that much.

Detail jobs are why dealer-sold cars almost always "look" better than private party cars on the surface

Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Feb 17, 2021

DanTheFryingPan
Jan 28, 2006

Deteriorata posted:

At 7-8000 km per year, reliability and gas mileage won't matter very much. She should just try cars until she finds one that is comfortable to get in and out of and drive.

Yeah, this is mostly just to narrow down the options.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Unfortunately that compact MPV class has kind of been erased by compact CUV.

Did you get the Ford B-Max in Finland? Those are pretty neat, and have a sliding rear door with no B-pillar that might help with ingress/egress (or not, if she likes to grab on to the B-pillar for support... either way). Maybe the C3 Picasso, Renault Modus would be worth checking out as well.

Kia Soul is a good option for sure. The Touran is pretty good too. The Golf Sportsvan is the same with a shorter trunk if she prefers a bit less length and if you can find one. Also worth seeing if the Skoda Roomster would fit the bill, although they are getting a bit long in the tooth now.

There's quite a few B-Maxes here actually, and we also get the C-Max and S-Max. And a surprising number of Sportsvans. Thanks for the suggestions!

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

IOwnCalculus posted:

Up to you on a cost/benefit basis. You'll be surprised how much having clear photos of a well-cleaned car will help when selling. I've gotten more on sales by giving the car a thorough cleaning immediately pre-sale, including things like a headlight restoration.

That's a good point. Who do you recommend for headlight fluid?

Deteriorata posted:

If you can do it so the repaint is invisible, it's good. Otherwise, the blemish is still there. You'll know it looks better than it used to, but the buyer won't.

The cost to have it done professionally will be more than you gain in the value of the car, otherwise.

So I'd recommend just leaving it. The new owner can touch it up if they want to.

Oh yeah it'd be be done professionally, I wouldn't even try doing it myself. I had it detailed over the spring but it's deffo a good investment of a few hundo to get it redone. This time I'm going to tell the detailer to not use any kind of perfume on the inside, though. Ugh, it smelled like Kohl's for weeks.

Is the conventional wisdom still "don't do a trade-in unless you're prepared to get even less than KBB or Edmund's TMV think you'll get"?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





MJP posted:

That's a good point. Who do you recommend for headlight fluid?

Is the conventional wisdom still "don't do a trade-in unless you're prepared to get even less than KBB or Edmund's TMV think you'll get"?

For headlight restoration kits I'm a fan of the 3M kits that work with a drill. I've bought the 3M 39008 a couple times and I think both times I got it for something like $5 after rebate. It is a decent bit of work to do if your headlights are as nasty as they get out here in the AZ sun. You can get some shorter-lived decent results with other products that aren't as labor intensive, which might be good enough for flipping the car.

Trade-in depends heavily on what you're trading in and your purchase scenario. I know in AZ (and I believe in a decent bit of other states) that you only pay sales tax on the net difference between the trade and the purchase price, which can make some of the difference back between what you might get selling it private versus trading it. There's also absolutely some value in not dealing with the unwashed masses buying a car. I've gone both ways. When I bought my CR-V, the trade-in offer on my rough-around-the-edges Mazdaspeed3 was "good enough" for my tastes and I did not want to deal with the fuckery of selling a hot hatch.

When I replaced that CR-V, I sold it private because I did end up with an insurance-reported fender-bender on it, along with a metric fuckton of miles. The trade-in estimates I got were less than half what I ended up selling it for. It was also a pain in the rear end to sell because of those (mostly the mileage) but that pain was easily worth $3k+ in my pocket.

feelix
Nov 27, 2016
THE ONLY EXERCISE I AM UNFAMILIAR WITH IS EXERCISING MY ABILITY TO MAKE A POST PEOPLE WANT TO READ
Going back to my question about my first ever car loan -- I called my county CU and they are offering me rates around 3-3.5% for a 36 month loan of ~$10,000. They don't do any shorter, but they don't have early repayment penalties. Apparently to get down into the 2% range you need to have previously borrowed a car loan. It's barely any lower than some of Carvana's rates, and almost the same as dealership rates. Would dealerships be more willing to haggle if I finance through them (assuming they don't have early repayment penalties either, if they do that's a huge dealbreaker)? Anywhere else I should look? Realistically the difference between 2% and 3% is tiny, especially if I pay it off early.

The Buick Regal TourX I'm looking at is literally the cheapest certified one in the country so IDK how willing they'd be to haggle unless there's something wrong with it and it still got certified somehow

feelix fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Feb 18, 2021

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



feelix posted:

Going back to my question about my first ever car loan -- I called my county CU and they are offering me rates around 3-3.5% for a 36 month loan of ~$10,000. They don't do any shorter, but they don't have early repayment penalties. Apparently to get down into the 2% range you need to have previously borrowed a car loan. It's barely any lower than some of Carvana's rates, and almost the same as dealership rates. Would dealerships be more willing to haggle if I finance through them (assuming they don't have early repayment penalties either, if they do that's a huge dealbreaker)? Anywhere else I should look? Realistically the difference between 2% and 3% is tiny, especially if I pay it off early.

Dunno what your options are, there was a wide gap between the credit unions in SF and I ended up going with a different one that I originally wanted to since they gave me a better rate.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

feelix posted:

Going back to my question about my first ever car loan -- I called my county CU and they are offering me rates around 3-3.5% for a 36 month loan of ~$10,000. They don't do any shorter, but they don't have early repayment penalties. Apparently to get down into the 2% range you need to have previously borrowed a car loan. It's barely any lower than some of Carvana's rates, and almost the same as dealership rates. Would dealerships be more willing to haggle if I finance through them (assuming they don't have early repayment penalties either, if they do that's a huge dealbreaker)? Anywhere else I should look? Realistically the difference between 2% and 3% is tiny, especially if I pay it off early.

The Buick Regal TourX I'm looking at is literally the cheapest certified one in the country so IDK how willing they'd be to haggle unless there's something wrong with it and it still got certified somehow

CPO is basically useless and with a car as uncommon as the TourX you shouldn't restrict to CPO. I guess you get a bit of a warranty (1/12,000) and two scheduled maintenances, if that seems super valuable to you. If it's a Buick CPO car through a GM dealer (which it should be, anything else is antics and lies), they're offering 1.9% if you have good credit.

bad_fmr
Nov 28, 2007

DanTheFryingPan posted:

Yeah, this is mostly just to narrow down the options.


There's quite a few B-Maxes here actually, and we also get the C-Max and S-Max. And a surprising number of Sportsvans. Thanks for the suggestions!

I drive an S-Max. Its great it has so much space. Three separate and equal size seats in the second row that can all be moved and reclined/folded individually. Third row is only good for children, but when those seats are not in use the boot is simply huge. It is something like 115cm * 115cm area. It also drives and handles really well, almost like a large estate car. Pretty much all the CUV type cars handle signicantly worse. The adjustment in the drivers seat is good. You can set it really high if you want to have more upright driving position and want to sit up higher.

Negatives: It is probably bigger than what your mom really needs. Also the turning circle is not small at all. Reliability is just ok, unless you have really bad luck with the dual clutch gearbox. In that case it will be really expensive replacement. The interior quality is also a bit lacking, and the infotainment stuff is bad compared to say VW. Also it is quite pricy, so with that proposed budget it would have to be a bit older with some km's driven already.

I have no personal experience with the smaller cousins C-max or B-max. The S-max is based on the Mondeo while the smaller cars are based on the Focus. Well at least they have sliding doors which should be practical.

bad_fmr fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Feb 18, 2021

Kilonum
Sep 30, 2002

You know where you are? You're in the suburbs, baby. You're gonna drive.

Proposed Budget: $5000
New or Used: You saw my budget, right?
Body Style: Anything I can cram my 6'1" 350lb rear end into. Midsize sedan or Compact/Midsize SUV/Crossover.
How will you be using the car?: Daily 2 mile round trip commute, weekly 12 mile round trip to grocery store, 2 annual 150 mile round trips to visit family (this is the only real highway driving I will be doing, ~31mi each way on I495 in Massachusetts). More suburban backroads than anything else.
What aspects are most important to you? In order: cost of ownership, reliability, drivability in snow, ease of maintenance, handling.

A little background: This will be my first car. Just got my license yesterday at the tender age of 38 years and 342 days. An electric or Plug-in Hybrid would be nice, but alas I live in an apartment and have no way to charge it at home.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

At $5,000 you're shopping based on condition/recent maintenance/good tires and brakes rather than on "what car I want".

And you don't have to worry about electric or plug-ins on that budget.

Why do you want/need a mid sized sedan? You sound like a Prius candidate otherwise.

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