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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Awesome, thanks! If you don't have a caulk gun they probably sell a couple caulks in squeezable tubes. I know DAP makes some.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:47
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All this caulk chat is making me tingle.
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Feb 15, 2021 00:55
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The house we just bought came with a Napoleon 1400 wood stove. I've never owned a wood stove before, but noticed a hole that goes down into a chute that is operated by a handle, presumably for ashes. This hole appears in the manual as well:  The next page of the manual shows a plug being available for the 1400L:  Question: should there be a plug in that hole?
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Feb 15, 2021 14:35
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Question, I'm preparing to have some concrete slabs laid. One slab is going to be on compacted gravel and clay, so the underlayment isn't a huge issue. This will be a patio type area. Probably going to pour 4" or so here, not sure if the wife wanted to stamp or not, but we'll see when we get there. The second slab is going to be on hard yellow clay, there's a few tree stumps I'm going to pull. I'll have the land regraded, but I'm thinking of putting a layer of gravel (4" or so) under the slab, and the put a 6" slab on top of that. This will be a building in the future (Likely a metal building) for a shop. Not going to really use it as a garage, except to store my mower and whatnot. This will be approximately 20x21'. Is there any other prep I should do before having the slab laid?
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Feb 15, 2021 15:33
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Professor Shark posted:The house we just bought came with a Napoleon 1400 wood stove. I've never owned a wood stove before, but noticed a hole that goes down into a chute that is operated by a handle, presumably for ashes. If you don't know where it goes: absolutely  Yes, it should be covered. If there is no purpose-made cover available from the manufacturer, a piece of 1/8" thick plate steel works perfectly for that opening.
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Feb 15, 2021 16:45
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PainterofCrap posted:If you don't know where it goes: absolutely Oh I do- there is a lever on the outside of the stove that drops down into the ash tray below. I've looked at a few YT videos and Google Images and they show it being uncovered... I'm leaning towards it being intentionally uncovered... ?
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Feb 15, 2021 16:50
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Professor Shark posted:Oh I do- there is a lever on the outside of the stove that drops down into the ash tray below. I would assume with the ash removal kit installed it's supposed to be open, so you can move ash into that and remove it while the fire is still burning. Harman stoves I have experience with have a similar principle-- they drop ash into a tray while the stove is running so you can leave it on 24/7.
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Feb 15, 2021 16:53
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I would not assume that. You don't want live fire ash outside of the stove chamber proper.
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Feb 15, 2021 17:01
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I found a different manual on the Napoleon website that shows how the bricks are arranged on the inside that does not include a cover: 
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Feb 15, 2021 17:08
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I just phoned Napoleon- apparently no lid is necessary
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Feb 15, 2021 17:32
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I'm driving myself crazy trying to find a fastener that I used in a piece of furniture once. It's a nut, but it's round and you slip it into a hole and then drive a bolt through it. Instead of regular hex nuts all over your furniture, you end up with these sleek brass circles. I drew a visual aid. The red thing is what I'm interested in. 
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Feb 15, 2021 22:58
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Some kind of fancy tee nut? https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/
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Feb 15, 2021 23:03
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Baronash posted:I'm driving myself crazy trying to find a fastener that I used in a piece of furniture once. It's a nut, but it's round and you slip it into a hole and then drive a bolt through it. Instead of regular hex nuts all over your furniture, you end up with these sleek brass circles. Barrel nut. E: or dowel nut.
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Feb 15, 2021 23:04
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Elviscat posted:Barrel nut. Thank you! That's it.
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Feb 15, 2021 23:25
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Professor Shark posted:I just phoned Napoleon- apparently no lid is necessary do you have the ash tray? I'm assuming you do.. if not you'd want a lid.
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Feb 16, 2021 14:40
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Question- I have an undercabinet microwave above my range that has a lovely recirc blower. If I wanted to rip this microwave out (we're fine with a small countertop one instead) and put in an actual ducted hood, I'm running into a couple of issues: 1. Do they make ducted undercabinet hoods, or just recirc ones? 2. If so, there's about three feet of open wall on top of the cabinets (vaulted ceiling in the kitchen), do they just run a box duct up along side the wall, or is there a way to run ducting inside of the (normal-sized) wall? 3. Would it be HVAC people that I'd call to do this if I wanted to?
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Feb 16, 2021 19:50
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GD_American posted:Question- I have an undercabinet microwave above my range that has a lovely recirc blower. If I wanted to rip this microwave out (we're fine with a small countertop one instead) and put in an actual ducted hood, I'm running into a couple of issues: Yes
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Feb 16, 2021 20:20
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OK as some of you may know, Dallas (where I live) is going through some cold poo poo right now. I was worried about the pipes for my outdoor faucets bursting, but they have those covers on them and I was advised that that's good enough (rather than let them drip). Today i looked outside and saw this:  At first I thought the pipe burst, but I turned on the faucet and it seems ok. It looks like it had a tiny drip even when fully closed, though. So: 1) Does that explain the ice under the faucet? I'm guessing even a tiny drip over a few days would eventually cause a formation like that. 2) It's moot, but do those covers suffice, or should I have been having the faucets drip? 3) Should I replace these outdoor faucets when I get a chance, or is it not worth it? Here's a picture of the faucet: 
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Feb 16, 2021 21:51
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there should be a shutoff for your faucet kind of close inside. I'd recommend using that, and keeping your faucet closed (or open if your shutoff isn't letting water drip). You're faucet is probably dripping a little bit especially if the packing nut has now shrunk due to the cold. If your packing nut is shot then you'll need to replace it. I live in the northeast and part of the winterizing routine is shut the water off inside the house, open the faucet and just let the pipe drain out and then close it up (or leave it open if your indoor shutoff is working 100%) edit: I know people who have used these covers but in my 38 years in the frozen winter tundra never used it and haven't ever had a problem even when we had a February that never saw double digit temps. The only time I've ever seen an issue was when we forgot to do the shutoff and drain for a faucet that ran under our deck, the ice made quick work of the PVC pipe. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Feb 16, 2021 |
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Feb 16, 2021 22:07
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Yeah, I was going to ask about a shutoff inside, but wasn't sure if those shutoffs are as accessible somewhere that freezing temps are national news. Inside shutoff has gotten us through many winters with no issues, including the last 10 days where we barely got above 0F.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:17
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Yeah, I was going to ask about a shutoff inside, but wasn't sure if those shutoffs are as accessible somewhere that freezing temps are national news. Inside shutoff has gotten us through many winters with no issues, including the last 10 days where we barely got above 0F. ideally there should be some kind of indoor shutoff somewhere so you can replace the fixture but see also "previous owner" and or "lovely builders cutting corners"
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Feb 16, 2021 22:24
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I have never seen nor heard of a shutoff for an outside hose bib, but I live in AZ. Hell, the front yard hose bib on the house I have now, and on the one I'm buying, is the first thing in line after the main water shutoff at the house itself. I wouldn't be surprised if houses in Texas are equally ill-equipped with anything to keep water out of a hose bib.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:32
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tater_salad posted:there should be a shutoff for your faucet kind of close inside. This is almost certainly not true and y'all need to state your location when giving advice on Texas plumbing issues. The frost line for the populated part of the state is negligible (usually) so 90% of the precautions that normal states have do not exist here.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:41
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Yeah, I'm 99% sure there's no indoor shutoff valve for these faucets. 
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Feb 16, 2021 22:50
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In NJ I've got a valve to shut off the outside faucet about 18 inches inside the wall (accessible near the ceiling in the basement). For the winter we turn that off and open the outside faucet. Then it's always dripping and I have to come back in and turn the shutoff harder, then go outside and look for drips, then come inside and close it harder, then repeat until it's actually closed. I've never seen a hose bib until posts about them showed up in the last two days. I'm sure house infrastructure is different in Texas where there's less freezing weather but it seems strange for there not to be an indoor shut off if there's ever freezing weather, which evidently there is sometimes.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:53
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I'm in NC, not TX, but newer construction around here uses frost-proof bibs. They have an extra long body and they put the valve mechanism on the interior side (connected to the handle by a long shaft), which means the nearest water is in the crawl space, so it should be warmer than outside. All this means that you don't need covers and it won't freeze unless it gets REALLY cold. That's good enough for here, so I'd be shocked to see an indoor shut off in TX or anywhere in the SW.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:55
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Yeah I guess it's location specific but in every home I"ve owned (all in Northeast) there's a shutoff for fixtures that aren't the fixtures themselves.. Like my current home my upstairs bathroom has the normal shutoffs but even stuff like washer / kitchen sink etc all have a shutoff in the basement somewhere. I'm pretty sure my 2nd floor bathroom also has shutoffs in the basement as well. the only house I never had that on was a lovely 1900s farm house with a crawlspace under the addition that was the only place with plumbing wherein the main shutoff was pretty much it for the whole house but that house was not very good.
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Feb 16, 2021 23:11
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Every time I have to do plumbing, which is thankfully not often I always curse the fuckers who don't put a shut off valve for every fixture, or every set of fixtures (like shut off for bathroom X, laundry machine/tub, Kitchen etc)
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Feb 16, 2021 23:33
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H110Hawk posted:Take a picture. If it's not a normal household plug like what is in your bedroom ( | | or | |- prongs) look closely at the face of it, embossed into it is likely something like "NEMA 6-30R" or whatever. Read that off. Take a picture of the switch, take a picture of your electrical panel with the door open and look for a breaker labeled "generator" or something. From there we will probably need to take the cover off if it's non-obvious what's going on. Nothing in the circuit breaker box. Here's everything I can see:     Furnace is LNG So I guess my questions are: 1. How would I size/shop for a generator for this? 2. How would I operate this safely? Do I need to monitor the furnace? 3. If it's safe to just hook up a generator and see how it goes, when can I start plugging in other essentials like the TV and Xbox?
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Feb 16, 2021 23:43
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porkface posted:Nothing in the circuit breaker box. Here's everything I can see: Do not make a double ended extension cord. They seem like a really great idea at the time. Don't do it. The generator setup you have is 100% jury rigged and not up to code. You want to connect your generator to an "Inlet"--not an outlet. And you'll want a bit better power transfer switch... Think something like:  https://smile.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-Corporation-31406CRK-Generators/dp/B000BQN4T2
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Feb 17, 2021 00:30
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porkface posted:Nothing in the circuit breaker box. Here's everything I can see: gently caress that there is no way to use that safely.
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Feb 17, 2021 00:36
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porkface posted:Furnace is LNG It depends on what else the generator would be powering. Gas furnaces require power to operate the control board electronics, the vent fan, and (if high-efficiency) the inducer fan (that postively charges the flue line with outflow pressure) and the condensate pump (if not a gravity drain). All of these together do not draw a ton of amperage - you can read the draws off of the data plate, but I doubt that all of them together draw more than 8-10-amps at peak. A relatively small generator should be able to run your gas furnace.
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Feb 17, 2021 01:12
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HycoCam posted:Looking at those pictures--I think you need to start shopping for a double ended extension cord! **Don't do that.** But do ask at Lowes were they can be found. Cool, thanks. I'll have a pro look at it and see how we could add a more modern transfer switch. I don't think we have an inducer fan or condensate pump so this shouldn't be all that taxing.
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Feb 17, 2021 06:23
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GD_American posted:Question- I have an undercabinet microwave above my range that has a lovely recirc blower. If I wanted to rip this microwave out (we're fine with a small countertop one instead) and put in an actual ducted hood, I'm running into a couple of issues: Yes to all three. On 2 you can have ducting in the wall or covered by a decorative box. It's a pretty approachable DIY but not if you're uncomfortable putting a hole in your house. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TFc0Trl9fw
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Feb 17, 2021 12:58
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My dad wants to draw some drawings of the house's foundation and frames, what's a good software program for doing so? ninja edit: My dad clarifies "not wood. Concrete footing and slab. 8 ft walls concrete." I don't know carpentry, I only stood off to the side passing him tools when I was a kid.
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Feb 17, 2021 15:58
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More home renovation fun. I took down some more walls and some more cabinets. This is a modular home, and the original design calls for some decorative "beams" where the seams of the house come together. As seen here.  I think they look pretty terrible, but have lived with them. The area with the current renovation had part of the cabinetry that covered the gap, and now it's exposed.  I'm looking for ideas/inspiration on covering this gap so we can paint over it. The area is 1.5" wide, and runs approx 15 feet. (Additionally if anyone has worked with this kind of ceiling before, I'd love to know how to fix damage to it. My best guess is it's some kind of gypsum, which is apparently very hard to find/replace.)
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Feb 17, 2021 16:11
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porkface posted:Nothing in the circuit breaker box. Here's everything I can see: Amazing.  That's a homeowner special. I see you've gotten the advice but this is precisely why we always ask for pictures.Also that implies horror deeper in your system, because that is terrifyingly well finished. Those wires all go somewhere. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Feb 17, 2021 |
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Feb 17, 2021 17:06
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H110Hawk posted:Amazing. That's the worst part to me - clearly someone put a lot of thought and effort in to doing this, but to anyone who knows a little bit about home wiring it's obvious that there's a very high chance that worse problems lurk behind the scenes. Like the person was smart enough to specify the components and use switches to toggle loads, but for some reason was completely blind to the actual code concerns in the entire setup. IMO if you can manage to hook a generator up to that without killing yourself, you're probably going to start a fire. Reminds me of someone on my local Nextdoor who was asking about punching a hole through their house to mount a Ring flood light over their garage door, and then power it by running a 16AWG extension cord back to the garage door opener receptacle on the ceiling.
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Feb 17, 2021 18:07
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Raenir Salazar posted:My dad wants to draw some drawings of the house's foundation and frames, what's a good software program for doing so? There is always AutoCAD or Microstation. AutoCAD used to have a free version for students that would just watermark drawings around the title block. SketchUp used to be free and might still be. I don't know how easy any of these are to use these days. I learned AutoCAD over a decade ago but have barely touched it since. I sketch up floor plans and foundation repair details to scale quite a lot for work on graph paper. An engineers scale (or architects scale, depending on the scale he wants to use) make it easy.
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Feb 17, 2021 18:20
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porkface posted:Nothing in the circuit breaker box. Here's everything I can see: this is terrible and unsafe. looks like the one switch disconnects the furnace from the main power and the other one takes an energized double ended plug (bad idea) and when you flip the switch on it feeds power from the plug to the furnace wires, and you better have that other switch off your you're backfeeding your panel and going to melt that switch I have seen in the northeast furnaces wired up this way. Main power to 1 outlet plug. Furnace wired to a plug that plugs into that outlet. this way in the event of a power loss you can now pug your furnace into a properly rated extension cord.
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Feb 17, 2021 18:56
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