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Talk about impeccable timing the decals I ordered back in July for the amg have finally hit the post from Spain right as I’m finishing up the model in a different livery. Might have to get myself another kit so I can make use of both the decals and paint that I already have
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Feb 16, 2021 22:39
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Has anyone had any luck stripping Tamiya lacquer spray paint from a model? This stuff is TOUGH. I dunked a car body in Purple Power degreaser (I've heard many people have success with this stuff) for a week and it hardly did anything. The paint didn't bubble, and I definitely can't just rub it off with my hand. It comes off a little bit with some sanding but it takes a lot of sanding before that happens and there's no way I'm not destroying the finer details by doing that. Am I doing something wrong here? Does anyone know something better I can use? I've heard brake fluid works but also really attacks the plastic.
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Feb 17, 2021 04:32
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FiskTireBoy posted:Has anyone had any luck stripping Tamiya lacquer spray paint from a model? This stuff is TOUGH. I dunked a car body in Purple Power degreaser (I've heard many people have success with this stuff) for a week and it hardly did anything. The paint didn't bubble, and I definitely can't just rub it off with my hand. It comes off a little bit with some sanding but it takes a lot of sanding before that happens and there's no way I'm not destroying the finer details by doing that. Am I doing something wrong here? Does anyone know something better I can use? I've heard brake fluid works but also really attacks the plastic. Try oven cleaner
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Feb 17, 2021 04:38
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Straight ipa works well and doesn’t completely degrade the plastic in the process. It’ll remove any tamiya primer that’s underneath it as well
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Feb 17, 2021 05:56
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Symetrique posted:Try oven cleaner Ive actually used this before and I had the same results it didn't do anything. It will eat away acrylic no problem but this lacquer is some crazy tough stuff. Maybe I'll try the straight IPA.
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Feb 17, 2021 07:05
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if you have an airbrush, organic vapor respirator, an outdoor area to spray, and nerves of steel, I’ve had success shooting acetone through an airbrush to strip paint from models. the atomization lets the acetone evaporate away before it can attack the plastic. keep a towel handy to prevent pools from forming and wipe away residue
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Feb 17, 2021 07:12
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Not a fan of Eduard's new decals. Thought they used to have them printed by cartograph. Gonna have to mask and paint the rest. I cut up the top decal into sections, but only the rearmost aligned with the sides of the fuselage. The edges of the film also curled up in a weird way, so I had to cut off some squares near the tail. On the plus side, these were black squares on transparent film. It wouldve been much worse if they were printed in color. 
Symetrique fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Feb 17, 2021 |
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Feb 17, 2021 09:25
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Raskolnikov38 posted:if you have an airbrush, organic vapor respirator, an outdoor area to spray, and nerves of steel, I’ve had success shooting acetone through an airbrush to strip paint from models. the atomization lets the acetone evaporate away before it can attack the plastic. keep a towel handy to prevent pools from forming and wipe away residue Acetone is metabolized by your liver so unless you decide to drink it, it's not going to do you any harm. Your body actually makes it when it breaks down fat. Wouldn't recommend snorting the removed paint or anything though.
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Feb 17, 2021 10:16
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FastestGunAlive posted:I’m building a Humber armored car, this is my second kit. I want to do a desert color scheme- does it matter what color primer I use? I would use a dark brown primer, or a black primer + then a dark brown base layer, then thin way down a lighter/sandy brown and do several passes. Because the sandy brown is thinned down, you can control the transparency to let the under-layer show the way you like. This way the vehicle won't look too much like it's right out of the factory.
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Feb 17, 2021 10:49
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Back when I didn't have an airbrush I would get primer or a base coat in more or less the correct colour and then change the tone and whatnot with oils. If you have an airbrush, then yeah, start with a darker version of your base colour and build up lighter layers.
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Feb 17, 2021 16:24
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I guess newer Eduard decals can work like HGW wet transfers? I just peeled the carrier film off of them. Couple black checkmarks will need some touchups, but for the most part they were undamaged. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZATsJoDBzq0
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Feb 17, 2021 19:44
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FiskTireBoy posted:Has anyone had any luck stripping Tamiya lacquer spray paint from a model? This stuff is TOUGH. I dunked a car body in Purple Power degreaser (I've heard many people have success with this stuff) for a week and it hardly did anything. The paint didn't bubble, and I definitely can't just rub it off with my hand. It comes off a little bit with some sanding but it takes a lot of sanding before that happens and there's no way I'm not destroying the finer details by doing that. Am I doing something wrong here? Does anyone know something better I can use? I've heard brake fluid works but also really attacks the plastic. Try using a magic eraser in tandem with the soak. They're abrasive enough to remove paint when wet, but not so much so that you'll harm plastic. I am currently stripping Duplicolor automotive spray paint off an 1/10 hardbody using daily soaks with a scrub for 20 min or so each night. It has been a 2 week job but I'm down to paint in trim lines only. I suspect your issue is caused by the PP needing to break the overlayer for the lye to begin attacking the underlying paint. Oven cleaner, castrol etc, are all going to use lye as their active ingredient so your results will be the same with those. I am in the same boat wrt being too chicken to try the brake cleaner but I'm told it works a treat. Gay Weed Dad fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 17, 2021 |
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Feb 17, 2021 21:30
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Perfect timing. Had a Revell car body in Tamiya primer. Been in the purple bath for two days. Can barely remove any with my fingernail. Out of oven cleaner, but I did have half a bottle of brake fluid that was no good for real car use anyways so I thought what the hell, I'll give it a shot. Tossed it in a zip lock bag, poured probably 3 or 4 ounces in over the body and worked it over in the bag. Four hours later used a soft toothbrush and about 98% came right off. Body seems fine.
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Feb 18, 2021 21:27
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Perfect timing. Oh yeah brake fluid definitely works but I've heard it makes the plastic super brittle. Hopefully yours turns out ok. I think I might try 99% IPA alcohol for a couple car bodies that I need to strip. Tamiya lacquer is liquid steel it seems like.
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Feb 19, 2021 00:56
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I think I wouldve lost my mind if I had to mask and paint this entire thing.  
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Feb 19, 2021 06:21
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Symetrique posted:I think I wouldve lost my mind if I had to mask and paint this entire thing. I found it's easier to lay down the lighter color, then paint every other row of black checkers so the black squares are done in two operations. You can just lay down the strips of tape without having to worry about cutting them to sharp points.
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Feb 19, 2021 14:02
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Symetrique posted:I think I wouldve lost my mind if I had to mask and paint this entire thing. I"m in a similar fix. I've got a Macross VF-25F. Sexy kit, really good looking space jet. But the livery is tricky shapes that I'll never manage. So now I've got a stack of photocopies of the decal sheet and I'm practicing with an Xacto to create a mask from the actual decals.  
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Feb 19, 2021 16:35
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SkunkDuster posted:I found it's easier to lay down the lighter color, then paint every other row of black checkers so the black squares are done in two operations. You can just lay down the strips of tape without having to worry about cutting them to sharp points. Yeah, the yellow was layed down first. I did the top checks in about three steps, but I wanted to get the center ones lined up first. Part of the issue is that the checks on the sides and rear of the fuselage were the kit decals. The decals looked like they were going to be fine until I tried to place the top fuselage section, which had some pretty bad overhang on the edges.
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Feb 19, 2021 17:43
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I just had an interesting idea. What if I took a brand new Molotow pen, disassembled it, took the chrome paint out, and then filled it with some other kind of paint like Tamiya acrylic? That way I could make paint markers with whatever color I wanted. I love Molotow pens because they lay paint down so flat but it seems like they only come in Chrome and Black. If I make the paint around the same thinness as the Molotow paint I don't see why it wouldn't work?
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Feb 20, 2021 03:24
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FiskTireBoy posted:I just had an interesting idea. What if I took a brand new Molotow pen, disassembled it, took the chrome paint out, and then filled it with some other kind of paint like Tamiya acrylic? That way I could make paint markers with whatever color I wanted. I love Molotow pens because they lay paint down so flat but it seems like they only come in Chrome and Black. If I make the paint around the same thinness as the Molotow paint I don't see why it wouldn't work? You can save yourself a bit of work and buy empty Molotow paint pens from Dick Blick. https://www.dickblick.com/products/molotow-empty-markers-replacement-nibs/
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Feb 20, 2021 04:35
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Both Montana and Copic also sell empty refillable markers. Haven't tried Copic myself, but it's certainly got a cult-like following. I have tried Montana product before though, and been very happy with the results.
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Feb 20, 2021 05:20
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Another one of my Paasche Talon tips ruptured in exactly the same spot, right at the bottom. For some reason a new .38 mm is like $50 Canadian on Amazon. If this is a typical problem with these airbrushes, I'd rather bite the bullet and just get a new one. Any recommendations?
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Feb 20, 2021 19:44
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Hey kids, it's been a while due to life taking over that I've posted or had time to build anything. Hopefully some of you may remember me! Anyway I wanted to start to get back into modelling somewhat and decided to do something totally new and outside my comfort zone. So I picked up this bad boy and started getting her built. Tamiya 1:350 HMS King George V Battleship         
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Feb 21, 2021 01:04
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Off to a great start! Keep posting progress pics. I recently pulled my trumpeter The Sullivans 1/350 Fletcher destroyer off the shelf of doom and am determined to finish it. I heavily modified it to model the USS Heermann (DD-532) as she appeared during the Battle of Samar when she and her fellow tin cans squared off against the Yamato and her cohorts. I will never do another late-war/dazzle camouflage again. I have to brush paint everything because there's no possible way to mask and spray everything without ripping off little bits of PE brass everywhere I turn. I will finish this drat build, but I swear to god, it's early-war monotone camo for ships from now on.
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Feb 21, 2021 02:35
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Both Montana and Copic also sell empty refillable markers. Haven't tried Copic myself, but it's certainly got a cult-like following. I have tried Montana product before though, and been very happy with the results. What's the application on this? I'm getting excited at the thought of laying down camos with that level of precision.
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Feb 21, 2021 04:14
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Vorenus posted:What's the application on this? I'm getting excited at the thought of laying down camos with that level of precision. Copic markers use an alcohol based ink and are used for doing renderings of things. They have two nibs on each pen one being a chisel point and the other is a bullet point. I'm not sure how well they'd work with paint though cause they're designed to work more like a permanent marker. There are those gundam paint markers though although I've never bothered getting one to try it out.
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Feb 21, 2021 04:30
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Copic markers use an alcohol based ink and are used for doing renderings of things. They have two nibs on each pen one being a chisel point and the other is a bullet point. I'm not sure how well they'd work with paint though cause they're designed to work more like a permanent marker. There are those gundam paint markers though although I've never bothered getting one to try it out. Ive tried them, they seem like alcohol based dense inks. Hard to apply completely opaque they do work.
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Feb 21, 2021 16:20
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Avis 1/72nd Edgely Optica  I haven't actually finished anything in months and this nearly ended up the same way; that cockpit was a nightmare and it still looks pretty poo poo tbh. Still, it's done.
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Feb 21, 2021 19:01
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That kit looks like a great start if anyone wanted to do a cool kitbash.
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Feb 21, 2021 19:31
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Finally ordered some more goodies. Went quantity over quality on this round, but after doing a little research on the kits, they don't look too awful. That S10 is pretty drat cool because it's got a full Syclone swap (turbo V6 & AWD) in the kit. 
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Feb 21, 2021 22:46
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Priming all the parts up in black. Hopefully give some depth.    
big_g fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 00:06
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I've recently got the idea in my head that I want to do model landscaping/dioramas of strange alien planets, but I'm having a hard time finding ground covering, plants, etc. that are not in "natural" earth colors. Is there anywhere that I can get something similar to ground cover or tree kits from Woodland Scenics or Scenic Express, but in non-natural colors? E.g. blue or red turf/trees. I really like the look of static grass and the Woodland Scenics stuff but I'm not sure how I could color them myself.
deep dish peat moss fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 00:42
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deep dish peat moss posted:I've recently got the idea in my head that I want to do model landscaping/dioramas of strange alien planets, but I'm having a hard time finding ground covering, plants, etc. that are not in "natural" earth colors. Is there anywhere that I can get something similar to ground cover or tree kits from Woodland Scenics or Scenic Express, but in non-natural colors? E.g. blue or red turf/trees. I really like the look of static grass and the Woodland Scenics stuff but I'm not sure how I could color them myself. I don't see why you couldn't airbrush that stuff. Make sure the glue is good and set before you go blowing it away, but I'd think that most of that landscape material would take paint well. Mix up some wacky purples and blues and go nuts.
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Feb 22, 2021 01:14
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deep dish peat moss posted:I've recently got the idea in my head that I want to do model landscaping/dioramas of strange alien planets, but I'm having a hard time finding ground covering, plants, etc. that are not in "natural" earth colors. Is there anywhere that I can get something similar to ground cover or tree kits from Woodland Scenics or Scenic Express, but in non-natural colors? E.g. blue or red turf/trees. I really like the look of static grass and the Woodland Scenics stuff but I'm not sure how I could color them myself. I recall seeing these grass tufts used in a tutorial video on basing miniatures with alien environments https://www.gamersgrass.com/52-alien-tufts Video in question https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaiekmch_pY
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Feb 22, 2021 02:39
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Unpeeling some of the new Eduard decals:  Got lucky and had no tears on the actual print. Extremely sketchy to do.
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Feb 22, 2021 04:37
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Finally ordered some more goodies. Went quantity over quality on this round, but after doing a little research on the kits, they don't look too awful. That S10 is pretty drat cool because it's got a full Syclone swap (turbo V6 & AWD) in the kit. Looking forward to seeing the Super Bee build. Not many people doing muscle car builds in this thread.
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Feb 22, 2021 05:00
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deep dish peat moss posted:I've recently got the idea in my head that I want to do model landscaping/dioramas of strange alien planets, but I'm having a hard time finding ground covering, plants, etc. that are not in "natural" earth colors. Is there anywhere that I can get something similar to ground cover or tree kits from Woodland Scenics or Scenic Express, but in non-natural colors? E.g. blue or red turf/trees. I really like the look of static grass and the Woodland Scenics stuff but I'm not sure how I could color them myself. Seconding gamer grass, but also check out the miniature terrain thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3570772&perpage=40&noseen=1&pagenumber=124
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Feb 22, 2021 07:38
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BOGO LOAD posted:I recall seeing these grass tufts used in a tutorial video on basing miniatures with alien environments https://www.gamersgrass.com/52-alien-tufts That alien blue gives me a strange urge to see someone kitbash a Mammoth Tank accompanied by a Tiberium Red Zone diorama. I would do it, but I would hate to blow a bunch of cash on supplies for something that's way above my skill level.
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Feb 22, 2021 09:20
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Vorenus posted:blow a bunch of cash on supplies for something that's way above my skill level. Isn't that the very definition of scale modeling?
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Feb 22, 2021 13:42
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It is for me!
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Feb 22, 2021 13:53
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