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serious gaylord posted:My friend, every one of us has a gently caress up hidden in the back corner.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:21
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Just Winging It posted:I did a 10ish" radius on the iron in my #5. Maybe not aggressive enough to call it a scrub plane, but it wastes away material fast, especially when traversing, to taking off a maximum of about a skinny 1/16" each pass (any more and the shaving can't pass through the mouth anymore). I picked up a trick to sharpen a radiused blade using a sharpening jig from Chris Schwarz, and that's to put alternating pressure on the left and right side, rocking the jig as you sharpen. I've done it and it works, but with more aggressive radiuses it gets rather awkward, so I just freehand those. Keep in mind that the wider the plane iron, the more uh... severe? the arc is for a given radius. So a 10" radius on a #5 iron (2" cutter) is a bit less severe than a 10" radius on a #7 plane (2 3/8" cutter).
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Feb 26, 2021 21:27
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I'd never even considered putting an aggressive camber on a #7 iron, so good point.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Whenever we had a a fuckup on a bedpost it went on the back side of a headpost. Sometimes we wished there were more than 2 headposts. On sunseeker shower bulkhead walls they were covered in Formica on both sides. On a 55m yacht somewhere in the med theres one with a 4, 150mm holes from where I started putting the door cavity in the wrong side. Filled them with resin, no-one will ever know.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:47
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Leperflesh posted:Sure. Yeah, this is normal for heavily radiused blades on bevel down planes. My no 5 is the same Leperflesh posted:e. oh yeah, 8" on a #7 plane seems super aggressive. I'm at around 9" and it looks like a pretty aggressive curve. I've seen 10" recommended as more of a norm. I'd suggest aiming for 9-10" ish, and don't sweat it if you don't get it exactly, and then maybe take more off if you decide that's just not aggressive enough. 8" is aggro on a 2" wide blade, on even wider blades you're less "rapid stock removal" and more "scalloping texture tool" My no5 is at an 8" radii and I plan on flatting that out to about 10" over time with sharpening.
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Feb 26, 2021 23:26
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So this was unexpected... A recent sled I made, it felt like the runners (maple) were perfect, but I guess they were a bit tight? Or maybe because I had the sled indoors and the table saw is in an unheated subzero (C) garage, so when testing the runners in the cold, they were perfect, but after some time indoors they expanded by a hair? Anyways I made a few cuts the other day and the sled was hard to push. Looking closer today, the runners actually rubbed chucks out of the track. What the hell   
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Feb 27, 2021 05:52
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Wood moves, it's a fact of life. Your second guess is a good one IMO, but even if you'd kept the slide in the same place as the saw, the fact that the saw's metal and the sled is wood would mean that at some point in the year they'd be out of calibration with each other. Sorry for the scratched paint job. I'm not up enough on sleds to comment on how to design around this issue, though.
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Feb 27, 2021 05:59
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I bought a set of these to make a spine sled, but haven't used them yet: https://www.microjig.com/products/miter-bar-2pk They look pretty cool, I'll post a trip report when done.
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Feb 27, 2021 06:48
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A lot of people use plastic for their sled runners too.
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Feb 27, 2021 07:14
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serious gaylord posted:A lot of people use plastic for their sled runners too. I've seen melamine cutting board pieces used to good effect.
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Feb 27, 2021 08:02
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serious gaylord posted:A lot of people use plastic for their sled runners too. Suntan Boy posted:I've seen melamine cutting board pieces used to good effect. HDPE (what plastic cutting boards are made of) works extremely well. Cutting boards are bit small though. I use 1/2 for resin molds and cut a few strips off for my sled.
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Feb 27, 2021 09:21
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If you want some extra material for stuff, commercial kitchen cutting boards can be a good value for the dollar.
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Feb 27, 2021 12:20
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Woodworking... More like wood moving   Gotta get the logs up on the three smaller ones so they can stand up in the air and dry out better.
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Feb 27, 2021 12:40
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Just needs paint
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Feb 27, 2021 14:20
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Wallet posted:I had been avoiding heat as the last time I tried a heat transfer (on cloth ~10 years ago, admittedly) it was a nightmare. My new toner cartridge came in so I gave transfering off of glossy acetate with heat a try. I started with an edge banding iron but a smaller one I had around (for doing curves and poo poo) was easier to apply pressure with and worked better. I was able to get a clean transfer consistently after loving around with it for a little while. Thanks! I doubt anyone is waiting with bated breath to see how this turned out, but after a lot of loving around I found that acetate was the best of the substrates I had available (including glossy photo paper among other things) for transferring toner with heat because it holds well enough that the toner doesn't immediately rub off but none of the toner can sink in. I ended up doing it all with a banding iron though it took a while to dial in the temperature as the sweet spot between where the toner can be re-fused and where the acetate starts melting is not large. I was initially using the iron itself to apply pressure for the transfer but I found it was nearly impossible not to end up moving around the acetate doing it that way (though it would be easier on something larger than 1/2" x 4" I'm sure). I switched to cycling through heating and burnishing (with a little wooden burnisher) three or four times per transfer which worked a lot better (with the first couple heating cycles being ~30 seconds to get it up to temperature and then shorter after that). Even sanded to 600 grit the wood grain still messes with the transfer a little, but they turned out clean enough.  Toebone posted:Just needs paint MDF makes me nervous but they look good! Are you doing anything to make sure they get sealed really well beyond painting?
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Feb 27, 2021 15:24
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I've used HDPE for tracks but also the aluminum T-track pieces fit in my table saw tracks nicely. One of them I had to sand down with some 600 grit a bit to get it sliding smoothly but it was easier than trying to fit maple just right like I did for my 1st pieces and you're not gonna run into issues other than temp expansion for aluminum vs your steel top. So far it hasn't been a problem.
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Feb 27, 2021 15:27
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Wallet posted:I doubt anyone is waiting with bated breath to see how this turned out, but after a lot of loving around I found that acetate was the best of the substrates I had available (including glossy photo paper among other things) for transferring toner with heat because it holds well enough that the toner doesn't immediately rub off but none of the toner can sink in. I appreciate the trip report because I've been looking for ways to produce a ton of garden markers. Yours look great, but I think I'm just going to stick with popsicle sticks and a fine point sharpie.
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Feb 27, 2021 15:58
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Wallet posted:MDF makes me nervous but they look good! Are you doing anything to make sure they get sealed really well beyond painting? I was just planning on hitting them with spray primer first, should that be sufficient or would a varnish be good?
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Feb 27, 2021 16:07
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Wallet posted:I doubt anyone is waiting with bated breath to see how this turned out, <snip> A teacher at the second last school I worked at saw on Pinterest how you could print stuff on waxed paper with an inkjet printer (backwards) then transfer it to wood. She wanted to put her family's names on a chunk of pine and hang it up in her living room. She got some waxed paper, cut it to size, got her print job, selected "mirrored", then hit the print button ON A MASSIVE OFFICE ZEROX PHOTOCOPIER.* Needless to say the instant that waxed paper hit the transfer roller the only thing that was coming out was the repair man. . . then a loaner photocopier as the original had to be taken to a service center to be ripped apart. The tech said this was new to him. *Photocopiers, like laser printers use heated transfer rollers which capture and then transfer toner to the paper. The waxed paper stuck to the roller then gummed up the machine.
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Feb 27, 2021 16:38
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CommonShore posted:I appreciate the trip report because I've been looking for ways to produce a ton of garden markers. Yours look great, but I think I'm just going to stick with popsicle sticks and a fine point sharpie. My handwriting is too awful to stare at it every day in my living room but I wouldn't bother if you need a lot of them. By the time you've made stakes, created the file for the labels, printed the labels, cut the labels out, stuck the labels down so they don't move (I used tape and little clamps), done the actual transfer, cut the stake into the end, and then coated it in poly four or five times it's too time consuming to do tons of them. I have ~40 houseplants that got labels and taking out the time to figure out how to do it I'm guessing it was five or six hours total. If you want something that holds up a little better without doing that much work DecoColor paint pens stand up to weather and sun a lot better than sharpie and you can get plastic nursery labels cheap on Amazon. Blistex posted:She got some waxed paper, cut it to size, got her print job, selected "mirrored", then hit the print button ON A MASSIVE OFFICE ZEROX PHOTOCOPIER.* Yeah, this is.. something all right. I have heard people talking about doing it with the backing sheet that sticky printable labels come on but actual wax in anything that uses toner and a fuser is a real bad idea. I wonder how much of the insides they had to replace to get the wax out. Toebone posted:I was just planning on hitting them with spray primer first, should that be sufficient or would a varnish be good? Wallet fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 17:22
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Wallet posted:Yeah, this is.. something all right. I have heard people talking about doing it with the backing sheet that sticky printable labels come on but actual wax in anything that uses toner and a fuser is a real bad idea. I wonder how much of the insides they had to replace to get the wax out. I made sure that I was around when the tech came in to take a look, and he was shaking his head once he discovered the problem. Nobody fessed up, so he just pulled the last code, looked up the username, then asked the teacher what she did. He said that the entire fuser unit was likely going to be replaced, which is about 1/3 of the copier (imaging and sorting being the rest). It happened in late October, and we had to put up with some lovely Richo until April. I don't know what kind of trouble she got into, but she stayed out of the copier room for a while.
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Feb 27, 2021 17:55
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Blistex posted:I made sure that I was around when the tech came in to take a look, and he was shaking his head once he discovered the problem. Nobody fessed up, so he just pulled the last code, looked up the username, then asked the teacher what she did. He said that the entire fuser unit was likely going to be replaced, which is about 1/3 of the copier (imaging and sorting being the rest). Lmao. Ms Lucy. Write on the board 1000 times for the class to see: I WILL NOT gently caress AROUND WITH SCHOOL EQUIPMENT TO DO PINTEREST THINGS, AS I AM NOT ABLE TO READ AND COMPREHEND INSTRUCTIONS IN PLAIN ENGLISH.
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Feb 27, 2021 18:14
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Toebone posted:I was just planning on hitting them with spray primer first, should that be sufficient or would a varnish be good? Good quality paint is the best thing you can put on it and vastly more everything resistant than varnish or any other clear finish.
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Feb 27, 2021 18:45
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Wallet posted:My handwriting is too awful to stare at it every day in my living room but I wouldn't bother if you need a lot of them. By the time you've made stakes, created the file for the labels, printed the labels, cut the labels out, stuck the labels down so they don't move (I used tape and little clamps), done the actual transfer, cut the stake into the end, and then coated it in poly four or five times it's too time consuming to do tons of them. I have ~40 houseplants that got labels and taking out the time to figure out how to do it I'm guessing it was five or six hours total. Yeah I have a label maker and a 3d printer too. Even with all of that the fastest and best effort:function ratio is still "just loving write on a thing"
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Feb 27, 2021 18:56
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I've never tried it, but in theory my wife's cricut can hold markers to draw on stuff. It would have the uniformity of a printer but avoid all the transfer issues if you can get access to one. I think it can also cut veneer, which seems like the cheater's way to do marquetry. The manual says it will cut balsa up to a reasonable thickness, much thicker than a veneer sheet. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 19:36
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Toebone posted:I was just planning on hitting them with spray primer first, should that be sufficient or would a varnish be good? Paint, like K. Schnitzel mentioned, but keep in mind that mdf is compressed layers of *some wood byproduct and mainly glue* and slamming one of those drawers slightly can separate that overlay away from the rest of it. fyi
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Feb 27, 2021 20:37
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Besides garbage furniture and the beds of CNC mills, what's MDF ideal for?
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Feb 27, 2021 21:12
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Anything that needs to be flat and stable in a dry environment, the core of lumber-banded panels.
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Feb 27, 2021 21:19
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Blistex posted:Besides garbage furniture and the beds of CNC mills, what's MDF ideal for? Flat stack laminated furniture. edit: oh, besides garbage furniture. Cabinets. They do really well at cabinets.
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Feb 27, 2021 21:20
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Jigs and fixtures. Like, I hate working with MDF but it has a lot of good uses. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 21:21
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Blistex posted:Besides garbage furniture and the beds of CNC mills, what's MDF ideal for? Supposed to be the go-to material for audio speakers since it's neutral, non-resonant. So oak or walnut veneered mdf makes for very nice speaker cabinets. edit- Like my '80's old style tower speakers that you see floating around occasionally.....
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Feb 27, 2021 21:28
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I've used mdf for commercial countertops and cabinets, usually with some kind of laminate or formica.
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Feb 27, 2021 21:39
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Blistex posted:Besides garbage furniture and the beds of CNC mills, what's MDF ideal for? Anything that gets painted. It's like a perfect surface to paint. Fine artists paint on masonite all the time. Painted interior doors often have solid-ish wood styles/rails that are covered with MDF.
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Feb 27, 2021 22:11
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JEEVES420 posted:Flat stack laminated furniture. I have a kitchen full of cabinets that would disagree about mdf doing really well at cabinets. Easy to make, sure, but every other place I’ve lived has 100 year old cabinets that can last another 50 years easily. These look about 10-15. The thing mdf does well is be cheaper than decent plywood and definitely cheaper than just wood.
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Feb 28, 2021 00:01
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Any time you are using MDF you should probably be using baltic birch ply instead, but aren't due to cost.
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Feb 28, 2021 00:15
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Where do y'all get your consumable/semi-consumable supplies? I need a few things and would rather purchase from a reputable supplier and not just amazon. I'm looking for: - Bandsaw blades - Sandpaper in sheets, rolls, and belts. My belt sander has a weird size the local hardware store doesn't stock - Misc other stuff I can't remember If this was for work I'd just slam the McMaster Carr button I have built into my computer but they don't seem to have the right bandsaw blade size. re: MDF. I banished it from my shop after 1 sheet due to the dust alone. It's made a decent assembly tabletop in 1-1/2" thick form (doubled up 3/4") but I refuse to use it again.
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Feb 28, 2021 05:23
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I use Wood Slicer blades from Highland Woodworking, personally.
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Feb 28, 2021 06:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I use Wood Slicer blades from Highland Woodworking, personally. I do very small scale wood working and I also use these blades from Highland. They are day and night better at ripping than the factory blade that came on the bandsaw and the "Lowes" replacement blade I bought before I knew about the Wood Slicer blades.
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Feb 28, 2021 09:24
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CommonShore posted:Yeah I have a label maker and a 3d printer too. Even with all of that the fastest and best effort:function ratio is still "just loving write on a thing" While I agree, these were fun to make: 
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Feb 28, 2021 10:15
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The Locator posted:I do very small scale wood working and I also use these blades from Highland. They are day and night better at ripping than the factory blade that came on the bandsaw and the "Lowes" replacement blade I bought before I knew about the Wood Slicer blades. Yeah, they're a great deal. I have a Craftsman 12" bandsaw (rebadged Rikon) and I barely used it because of the poo poo big box blade I had on it. Finally got a Woodslicer and it's been a joy to use the machine. After getting it tuned, I can take off uniform 1/64" slices.
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Feb 28, 2021 14:50
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