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I get Starrett blades for my crappy 10" from woodcraft and it makes my bandsaw adequate, especially when I replaced the drive wheel tire with a blue urethane tire
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Feb 28, 2021 15:40
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Thanks for the blade advice. I've been meaning to get some stuff from Highland anyway so this is a good excuse to put in an order. The only issue is I seem to have an unusual blade length at 72-1/2". I might just pay the extra for the custom length so I can actually get some use out of the tool.
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Feb 28, 2021 20:08
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Thanks for the blade advice. I've been meaning to get some stuff from Highland anyway so this is a good excuse to put in an order. Yeah, no sense in having an expensive tool that you aren't using because you don't want to spend a fraction of the tool's cost on a nice blade.
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Feb 28, 2021 20:15
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Thanks for the blade advice. I've been meaning to get some stuff from Highland anyway so this is a good excuse to put in an order. I get mine from this place and they are really cheap and good. Like $25 for 3/4”x183”for my 24” saw. I think they use either starret or Lenox blades. They bought the people I used to order them from and the new lady isn’t as knowledgeable so it helps to know what pitch/set etc you want. The old guy that does the welding only comes in on mondays now so it might take a week to ship, lol. https://sawandknife.com/
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Feb 28, 2021 21:00
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I get mine from this place and they are really cheap and good. Like $25 for 3/4”x183”for my 24” saw. I think they use either starret or Lenox blades. They bought the people I used to order them from and the new lady isn’t as knowledgeable so it helps to know what pitch/set etc you want. The old guy that does the welding only comes in on mondays now so it might take a week to ship, lol. Looks like they do everything made to order and I have to call to get what I want? They only mention "wide bandsaw" blades so I hope they do down to 3/8" or 1/2". The old guy who only works when he feels like it sounds perfect. I was originally looking for replacement parts for my personal shop but I'm leading the rebuilding of the utility shop at my company so I'll have to give these guys a call for that job too. We have a huge Delta saw and a smaller saw that are constantly dull because the other engineers are idiots. Someone bought like 20 sheets of phenolic impregnated plywood like 10 years ago and its still getting used regularly. That poo poo makes great work surfaces but destroys tools. I went in the other day to cut a cardboard tube down and the big saw would barely cut it at all. Idiot engineer sees my disgust and just says "you gotta push harder". I was pretty close to yelling at him lol.
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Feb 28, 2021 21:22
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Looks like they do everything made to order and I have to call to get what I want? They only mention "wide bandsaw" blades so I hope they do down to 3/8" or 1/2".
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Feb 28, 2021 21:37
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From the previous page but I just wanna throw in, lotta people say "MDF" which means Medium Density Fiberboard, when what they really mean is one of a dozen other varieties of engineered wood/particle board product. Gotta watch out for that when taking recommendations for a project.
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Feb 28, 2021 22:13
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Finished my tea box.   The aspen really sopped up the polycrylic. The engraving and painting went well (though my initial white paint wasn't enough contrast). I wish the letters were a little larger, but that's as big of a stencil that I could find locally. While working on it, I decided standing sucked and built a cheap stool.  Spent some time making the seat nice and just threw the legs together as cheaply as possible. Kinda obvious that I cut corners, but also it's just going to live in the garage, so  .
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Mar 1, 2021 00:17
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Uthor posted:Finished my tea box. What a beautifully clean and simple box! I should probably make something to hold all my tea bags too 
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Mar 1, 2021 03:58
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 Friend had to cut and reglue two cutting boards he made out of various offcuts. They were ash and maple boards that he made out of 5' 1x1" stock. He clamped the stock together, went through the process, runs the three cutting boards he made through the thickness planer, bevels the edges with the router, spends an hour with the RO sander, hits the first one with the mineral oil. . . SWASTIKAS OUTTA NOWHERE!Two of the three boards ended up making two rows of completed swastikas when glued together. The third board was spared that fate as the stock was turned or flipped differently than the other two. A swipe or two with the table saw and a slight reorientation, and the board were a little smaller, and a lot less racist.
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Mar 1, 2021 05:58
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Uthor posted:Finished my tea box. This is really nice. My wife is a tea drinker, I might try to replicate this. What thickness of board is that? I've used 3/4" for a couple small boxes and they come out looking so chunky.
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Mar 1, 2021 14:20
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1/2" (7/16" actually?) The whole thing is a little large. Should have down two compartments, I think.
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Mar 1, 2021 14:42
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Blistex posted:
Pics or it didn't happen.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:00
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Blistex posted:
Ah yes, reorientation.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:58
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Mar 1, 2021 17:10
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You know those paper slicers? Wood is basically just thick paper, introducing the Wood Slicer! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYKUBzTJxtA
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Mar 1, 2021 17:28
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Saw this on reddit in a non-woodworking sub. Does anyone here know anything about using brick dust as part of a finish? Seems so odd, as charming as she may be..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTlpaNRweCs
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Mar 1, 2021 19:10
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I can’t help but think it’s just coloring the oil. That dust looks like it’s precipitated quickly, so you’re not going to get much of the particles in suspension on the wood. But the color is probably oil soluble and that’s what it picks up when heated. Cool idea, but stains would be more consistent and less work. Also just starting with a hammer or just clay would have been easier too.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:21
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Jhet posted:I can’t help but think it’s just coloring the oil. That dust looks like it’s precipitated quickly, so you’re not going to get much of the particles in suspension on the wood. But the color is probably oil soluble and that’s what it picks up when heated. It's possible to buy just straight up red iron oxide (red ochre) too. That's all that it would be adding to the stain for colour. The rest of a brick is more or less a mix of silica and alumina and a few salts, so any suspended particles beyond the iron oxide might be a bit of an extremely fine grit abrasive.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:29
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CommonShore posted:It's possible to buy just straight up red iron oxide (red ochre) too. That's all that it would be adding to the stain for colour. The rest of a brick is more or less a mix of silica and alumina and a few salts, so any suspended particles beyond the iron oxide might be a bit of an extremely fine grit abrasive. I didn't even think about that, but of course you can just buy that. Yeah, great 'hack' or whatever, but probably not worth the time spent on it. The finish didn't look to have picked up a ton of color in the video either. It was a decent history lesson, but not very info dense. Much like watching Norwegian programs, but that works for what it is.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:38
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Mr. Mambold posted:Saw this on reddit in a non-woodworking sub. Does anyone here know anything about using brick dust as part of a finish? Seems so odd, as charming as she may be..... Before pre-mixed paints became available in the industrial revolution, painters mixed up their own paints every day from linseed oil (binder), pigment (which they often ground themselves. If you wanted the same yellow your neighbors have, you better hire the same painter), and turpentine (solvent). They used white lead as a white pigment/bulking element (now we use titanium dioxide, talc, or gypsum) and slowly went insane from the lead poisoning and turps fumes which is probably the origin of the idea that painters are crazy and/or drunks (they are). Turns out white lead is also a great fungicide and is probably part of the reason old buildings seem to last so long. E: You can make your own paint from all kind of stuff-you just need compatible binders and vehicles. Hide glue (not hot, just soak granules in water and dilute a ton) plus whiting and/or pigment still gets used a bit in the world of theatrical scene painting, and milk paint is another simple paint. Casein from milk is the binder, and water is the vehicle. Both have the advantage that you can thin them waaaaaaay down with water to get watercolor-like effects, but that comes with the disadvantage that they are not very durable or water resistant. They are also perfect bacteria/fungi food since they are basically proteinwater and rot and stink pretty fast and opening a can of old casein paint is pretty gross. Tempera got used a bunch by old Renaissance masters and uses egg yolks as a binder. No reason plain yellow glue wouldn’t work as a binder either. Make your own paint! Bulk dry pigment is pretty cheap. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 20:00
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Are there any tabletop jointers that are worth a drat? I have very limited space so I've avoided getting one but I'm getting tired of doing it by hand or faking it with table or circular saw jigs. A quick survey shows that all of the tabletop options are 6" and all have shortcomings. I don't typically work with huge boards so the limited size might be fine. Does anyone have experience with these little guys?
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Mar 1, 2021 20:12
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Rutibex posted:You know those paper slicers? Wood is basically just thick paper, introducing the Wood Slicer! You joke but the difference between a paper guillotine cutter and a veneer guillotine cutter is just size and cutting angle.
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Mar 1, 2021 20:38
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Are there any tabletop jointers that are worth a drat? I have very limited space so I've avoided getting one but I'm getting tired of doing it by hand or faking it with table or circular saw jigs. The Rikon 8" is ok, and I have the Wahuda branded version of the 8" with a spiral head. The big drawbacks are the small length of the bed means you can only reliable flatten shorter boards, and if you move the fence you have to fiddle with it to get 90* again. I may make my own fence since I almost always cut 90* or 135* and never in between. The motor is strong and the blades seem to leave a good surface.
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Mar 1, 2021 21:14
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CommonShore posted:It's possible to buy just straight up red iron oxide (red ochre) too. That's all that it would be adding to the stain for colour. The rest of a brick is more or less a mix of silica and alumina and a few salts, so any suspended particles beyond the iron oxide might be a bit of an extremely fine grit abrasive. Yeah, I've done that with red or green pigment from the paint store. I didn't know if the silica adds abrasiveness (but why) or it or clay was a secret hardener or supposedly added something magical. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Paint is 3 things-a pigment, a vehicle/solvent, and a binder/resin (Linseed oil, shellac, latex, whatever). Pigments are very fine particles of something colored (or white). She smashed up some bricks to make a jackleg pigment-call it burned sienna or red ochre as someone mentioned. She made her own very dilute (not much pigment for the amount of binder, and not very finely ground pigment) paint, so she didn't really need a vehicle/solvent because it was thin enough to spread. If she'd added a bunch more (finer)pigment, it would have been thick and goopy, so if you wanted to be able to brush it you would add something that would thin it, but then evaporate and not stay in the final coating-a solvent. Because it has so little pigment and is being applied in such a thin coating (and because the pigment is not very finely ground and suspended in the oil) it didn't really make a thick coating like paint, and acted more like a pigmented oil-based stain, which is basically what she made. The brick dust maybe also is acting as a little bit of an abrasive and maybe makes thing feel smooth, but if too much gets stuck in the finish, it might make it feel rough, idk? Very informative, thanks to both of you.
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Mar 1, 2021 21:20
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Are there any tabletop jointers that are worth a drat? I have very limited space so I've avoided getting one but I'm getting tired of doing it by hand or faking it with table or circular saw jigs. I got a 6" and for the most part wish I hadn't spent the money and just used table saw jigs instead.
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Mar 1, 2021 23:36
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Dumb question of the night - Think I could run a pole lathe using a bundle of old fishing rods as my spring pole
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Mar 2, 2021 05:23
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Stultus Maximus posted:I got a 6" and for the most part wish I hadn't spent the money and just used table saw jigs instead. What is the recommended table saw jointer jig?
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Mar 2, 2021 13:44
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AFewBricksShy posted:What is the recommended table saw jointer jig? Speaking of tapers, anyone have any ideas on how to flute a tapered column? The flutes need to get smaller and stay consistently spaced from each other as the column tapers. I’ve tried doing with a ramp for the router, which does taper the flute itself but not enough? The flutes run into each other. It’s only 2 posts done on 2.5 sides and I can probably lay it out and cut/grind a scraper for them by hand in the time I can figure out the right router setup but it’s a setup by machine I’d like to figure out anyway. 
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Mar 2, 2021 21:27
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AFewBricksShy posted:What is the recommended table saw jointer jig? I built this one more or less identically to the vid (used plywood instead of MDF) and use it for edge jointing boards and for tapering. Works great for both! I'm happy with it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXjPYp1-78c
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Mar 2, 2021 22:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Something as simple a board way longer then the TS fence held against the fence or clamped to it (support the entire edge of the work on both infeed and outfeed) will let you straight line rip one edge of a board. You can also make a similar jig like a taper jig that you clamp the work to. Can you jig it up so you have a level surface running above the leg? That way the flute gets shallower as the leg drops away from the router rather than raising the router off the leg?
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Mar 2, 2021 22:48
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serious gaylord posted:Can you jig it up so you have a level surface running above the leg? That way the flute gets shallower as the leg drops away from the router rather than raising the router off the leg?
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Mar 3, 2021 00:41
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Built a desk which came out great and decided to use pipe legs. Unfortunately, I have a little wobble (maybe there is a better term for it) going from left to right and looking for a solution. A cross brace seems most logical. It would be a pain because I doubt I could get a pipe that would be an exact fit so I'd be taking everything apart, adding it, and re-drilling the legs into the desk. Are there any other easier solutions? Like an adjustable clamp I could attach to each leg that would connect them. It's not a terrible wobble but I do notice it. 
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Mar 3, 2021 00:57
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Niwrad posted:Built a desk which came out great and decided to use pipe legs. Unfortunately, I have a little wobble (maybe there is a better term for it) going from left to right and looking for a solution. It may not be super elegant, but could you use a cross brace that is attached to both sets of legs using something like an EMT pipe clamp? I'm not sure if it would also need to be attached to the table top to prevent racking.
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Mar 3, 2021 01:03
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You could attach a piece of wood going across the rear legs with something like a 2-hole strap, then use the wood as a mount for cable management to keep everything looking clean.
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Mar 3, 2021 01:42
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Falco posted:It may not be super elegant, but could you use a cross brace that is attached to both sets of legs using something like an EMT pipe clamp? I'm not sure if it would also need to be attached to the table top to prevent racking. I had thought of that but wasn't sure if conduit pipe would be strong enough. I could spray paint it black to match the look I suppose. nostrata posted:You could attach a piece of wood going across the rear legs with something like a 2-hole strap, then use the wood as a mount for cable management to keep everything looking clean. I'm kind of new to this but would the wood connect to the pipe left? How would that work?
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Mar 3, 2021 01:49
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It would just attach to the existing rear pipes with these Its not the most elegant solution but it saves you from cutting more pipes and trying to splice in a cross pipe.
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Mar 3, 2021 02:02
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Thank you both. I might try that conduit option first since it's fairly simple and cheap. If it doesn't work, I'll look into the wood option since I do need to put a cord management system anyway.
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Mar 3, 2021 02:44
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I should also add, when you're talking about a clamp, would it be something like this? I couldn't find an option that wouldn't require me to take apart the legs. https://www.amazon.com/Black-T-shap...08M62MGSB&psc=1
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Mar 3, 2021 03:59
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Niwrad posted:I should also add, when you're talking about a clamp, would it be something like this? I couldn't find an option that wouldn't require me to take apart the legs. Nope sorry, I was attempting to describe exactly what nostrata described. A piece of wood that would nearly span the width of your desk and be clamped to the vertical back legs using a conduit strap clamp. Something similar to these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-4-in-2-Hole-Conduit-Straps-10-Pack-26122/100165675 The wood doesn’t need to be anything fancy. It could be a stained pine 1x6. You likely won’t be able to see it unless you are looking at desk height level or below anyway. Falco fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 04:19
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