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The French Cleat kit I bought came with a few screws that look like this: Are these safe to put into the drywall to hold up the mirror?
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Feb 28, 2021 13:45
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ryanrs posted:This probably isn't the right thread, but please point me in the right direction. I can find 18-8 pH hardened, alloy 410 and titanium on McMaster, one of which should be a suitable replacement for Monel. I can find alloy 400/Monel in imperial only. I know that people out there must stock them because I use them at work, I just think they're niche enough it's no one with an easy customer facing portal.
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Feb 28, 2021 17:26
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Professor Shark posted:The French Cleat kit I bought came with a few screws that look like this: Should be be okay depending on the weight, but I would personally Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Feb 28, 2021 |
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Feb 28, 2021 17:39
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I trust those screws much less than any other kind of drywall anchor. The plastic drill-then-hammer-in ones are probably fine for hanging a normal size bathroom mirror.
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Feb 28, 2021 18:39
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Yeah I borrowed a stud finder from my buddy. Hopefully I can fit the cleat onto two studs, otherwise it will have to just be one plus those WallDogs® holding it up. The mirror weighs about 15lbs or so...
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Mar 1, 2021 01:01
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Is is strange that my gas range (GE profile) doesn't have any inset behind it for the gas tubing? nor is there any inset in the back wall, so I can't actually push it all the way back - it ends up having to stick out a couple of inches from the wall.
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Mar 1, 2021 04:11
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I'm moving soon and after a visit with my dog to introduce him to the currently resident dog, it's come to my attention the steps are some combination of steep and slippery that he can't handle. They're finished hardwood, and I'm looking for a solution that perhaps someone had already come up with that won't mar the wood. So far I've just come back to something like carpet lengths and double sided tape, but the only carpet tape I ever used where I couldn't put in tack strips was kinda gungy (might damage wood? I dunno) and I have no idea what else might be an option. He's a medium size dog so that under-rug grippy material isn't really going to do anything if he catches it at speed.
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Mar 1, 2021 05:41
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Synnr posted:I'm moving soon and after a visit with my dog to introduce him to the currently resident dog, it's come to my attention the steps are some combination of steep and slippery that he can't handle. I have only just used this product for a month on LVT flooring, not hardwood, but 3M has Rug Anchors that I've used to stop one of my dogs from pushing up the corner of a rug every 10 minutes. Maybe you use those, you'd probably need 2 per step (and a small piece of rug on each step of course), so not the cheapest solution depending on how many steps you have to make dog friendly.
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Mar 1, 2021 06:32
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Dumb question with likely obvious answers... my power bill has been spiking lately and I don't think I've ever heard my fridge compressor ever actually click off (or least something is always running). It is a Sub-Zero 361 (model 361FD) which, judging from its production timeline, is original to the house (1984). Historical Sub-Zero quality impressiveness aside, what are the typical fridge troubleshooting steps? Take a look at thermostat, clean condenser coils, etc? The door gasket might be hosed seeing as I can pull it right open after closing it without nary a hint of suction. The freezer at least still seems to have a working gasket as it does stick for a bit after closing it. Or should I really look at replacing a 37 year old refridgerator?
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Mar 1, 2021 06:44
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You can try and replace the seal if you can find a replacement, also it's 37 years old even a good nice quality one is going to die at some point. You can also attempt to clean the coils if they have accumulated an assload of hair / dust etc they'll be less efficient (if you can get to them)
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Mar 1, 2021 14:57
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tangy yet delightful posted:I have only just used this product for a month on LVT flooring, not hardwood, but 3M has Rug Anchors that I've used to stop one of my dogs from pushing up the corner of a rug every 10 minutes. Maybe you use those, you'd probably need 2 per step (and a small piece of rug on each step of course), so not the cheapest solution depending on how many steps you have to make dog friendly. Ah interesting, I hadn't heard of these. I'll pick some up after lecture today and fiddle with them and some off-cuts from the discount place. Thank you.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:44
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movax posted:Dumb question with likely obvious answers... my power bill has been spiking lately and I don't think I've ever heard my fridge compressor ever actually click off (or least something is always running). It is a Sub-Zero 361 (model 361FD) which, judging from its production timeline, is original to the house (1984). A lot of Sub-Zero’s are a non-standard size and can be tricky to replace if it’s built into cabinets or something. Maybe they only make countertop depth ones and not full depth? I can’t remember the details, but it’s a problem a client ran into once, so you might want to check the specs before you assume a replacement will be an easy drop in.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:35
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drat those sub-zeros really do last forever they are all built-in now as the Euro style is becoming very popular, not sure about in the 1980s though
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Mar 1, 2021 18:19
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tater_salad posted:You can try and replace the seal if you can find a replacement, also it's 37 years old even a good nice quality one is going to die at some point. You can also attempt to clean the coils if they have accumulated an assload of hair / dust etc they'll be less efficient (if you can get to them) Probably this. The only people that clean their vacuum coils are type-A teeth-grinders that do it The rest of us do it when we can't find any more of the cat toys and the cats are being a PITA.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:21
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Professor Shark posted:Yeah I borrowed a stud finder from my buddy. Hopefully I can fit the cleat onto two studs, otherwise it will have to just be one plus those WallDogs® holding it up. The mirror weighs about 15lbs or so... That's not a ton of weight. Even the cheapest drywall anchors can handle that but spend the $5 and buy some badass anchors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M
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Mar 1, 2021 18:24
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actionjackson posted:Is is strange that my gas range (GE profile) doesn't have any inset behind it for the gas tubing? nor is there any inset in the back wall, so I can't actually push it all the way back - it ends up having to stick out a couple of inches from the wall. I can’t produce any visual so bear with me, but could you call a plumber to ask what they could do? Or check the manual? I have a GE gas range/oven (LP tho) and it pretty much goes flush with the wall, though I don’t know if it’s strange that yours doesn’t have an inset because I don’t know if your range is natty gas or LP or if there would be any difference in how the make the two types beyond the tubing and valves themselves (which I’d imagine would be different anyway).
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Mar 1, 2021 18:31
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life is killing me posted:I can’t produce any visual so bear with me, but could you call a plumber to ask what they could do? Or check the manual? I have a GE gas range/oven (LP tho) and it pretty much goes flush with the wall, though I don’t know if it’s strange that yours doesn’t have an inset because I don’t know if your range is natty gas or LP or if there would be any difference in how the make the two types beyond the tubing and valves themselves (which I’d imagine would be different anyway). yeah I should have posted a pic, looks like the back does have a bit of an inset for the tubing, but the gas connection from the wall is sticking out so the oven runs into that. Is that weird?
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Mar 1, 2021 18:38
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That solid copper line is the culprit. Never seen that used for a gas feed. Substitute a gas flex line and it should fit much closer...though that long stub-out from the wall may prevent it from getting completely flush.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:45
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PainterofCrap posted:That solid copper line is the culprit. Never seen that used for a gas feed. thanks, I think that copper line actually can fit in that inset though (you can see the inset is deeper than the combined depth of the two tubes). It's the part that's sticking out from the wall that it's running into. The amount that solid pipe thing comes out the wall is the same distance as the gap when I push the oven in all the way. I'm going to replace my appliances some point in the next year or two because they are all 16 years old, so I probably won't replace anything as I don't feel comfortable loving around with gas lines, but I appreciate the explanation. The appliance place said they could push that "stub-out" back into the wall for me when I get my new oven, which will be electric anyway (don't yell at me, my city charges hundreds of dollars in fees for new or replacement gas installations) actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 18:50
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actionjackson posted:yeah I should have posted a pic, looks like the back does have a bit of an inset for the tubing, but the gas connection from the wall is sticking out so the oven runs into that. Is that weird? Not helpful, but I like that you have provisions for both gas and electric. Thoughtful!
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Mar 1, 2021 19:41
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yeah that's definitely nice! I still don't get the piping thing though.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A lot of Sub-Zero’s are a non-standard size and can be tricky to replace if it’s built into cabinets or something. Maybe they only make countertop depth ones and not full depth? I can’t remember the details, but it’s a problem a client ran into once, so you might want to check the specs before you assume a replacement will be an easy drop in. I like companies that do things like this: https://www.subzero-wolf.com/assistance/answers/replace-200-or-300-series-with-built-in-series-model... of course, they want to sell you another one, but I can get PDFs and HOWTOs for my 37 year old fridge, right on their website. I don't have any panels, so apparently only electricity moved for my specific one. We're debating knocking out a cabinet next to it to blow up to the 42" model as well. Our is very much built-in and when they renovated / redid the entire kitchen, they designed it around the fridge so there is maybe a few mm of gap on any side of it now. PainterofCrap posted:Probably this. The only people that clean their vacuum coils are type-A teeth-grinders that do it Thanks -- I'll start with this, and maybe see if the gasket is a reasonable DIY / price. Hoping it isn't any of the various sensors / thermostats, but I have the service manual and can start to look into that if its the next problem. Lot cheaper than replacing it (for now)...
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Mar 2, 2021 00:21
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PainterofCrap posted:That solid copper line is the culprit. Never seen that used for a gas feed. Part of the reason is that I don't think any code officially allows copper lines anymore for gas, but I'm sure it varies by area and code adoption. Not ideal/great though...
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Mar 2, 2021 21:14
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Would anyone know why an LED 60w replacement bulb wouldn’t work in a bathroom fan light? The previous bulb was incandescent but I think it said 580L (guessing that’s 40w-ish but part of the print was gone so don’t know for sure) while the LED is 800L so would that have anything to do with it? The LED screws right in, doesn’t turn on, but the fan is fine so the light should be working.
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Mar 3, 2021 17:29
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life is killing me posted:Would anyone know why an LED 60w replacement bulb wouldn’t work in a bathroom fan light? The previous bulb was incandescent but I think it said 580L (guessing that’s 40w-ish but part of the print was gone so don’t know for sure) while the LED is 800L so would that have anything to do with it? The LED screws right in, doesn’t turn on, but the fan is fine so the light should be working. Make and model of the fan and both bulbs? Picture of the socket itself with no bulb in it?
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Mar 3, 2021 17:38
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H110Hawk posted:Make and model of the fan and both bulbs? Picture of the socket itself with no bulb in it? No idea of make and model without removing whole fan assy, but can toss a pic in there in a few minutes and link it.
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Mar 3, 2021 17:39
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life is killing me posted:Would anyone know why an LED 60w replacement bulb wouldn’t work in a bathroom fan light? The previous bulb was incandescent but I think it said 580L (guessing that’s 40w-ish but part of the print was gone so don’t know for sure) while the LED is 800L so would that have anything to do with it? The LED screws right in, doesn’t turn on, but the fan is fine so the light should be working. I've seen diodes used as quick and dirty dimmers before. If at some point somebody thought the fixture was too bright and dropped a diode in series with it as a dimmer and your LED bulb uses a half-wave rectifier, it's possible that the combo never conducts. Does the fixture still work with incandescent bulbs and are they dimmer than they are in other fixtures?
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Mar 3, 2021 17:46
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Sigh...what I thought was dirt or grime, apparently isn't. This is in our 22-month-old house, central Florida. This side faces north, which apparently causes problems due to moisture not evaporating quickly enough? Anyway, what's the best way to fix this? I tried using different cleaners but nothing seems to work. The hardware is also already rusted out.   
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Mar 3, 2021 17:54
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Still have a warranty on the house? Because that is hilarious. If hardware in florida isn't meant to be wet basically 24/7 it's not suitable for outdoor use.
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Mar 3, 2021 17:59
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Stack Machine posted:I've seen diodes used as quick and dirty dimmers before. If at some point somebody thought the fixture was too bright and dropped a diode in series with it as a dimmer and your LED bulb uses a half-wave rectifier, it's possible that the combo never conducts. Does the fixture still work with incandescent bulbs and are they dimmer than they are in other fixtures? I have no incandescents lying around at the moment—I remember replacing our master bathroom fan with another model because of grinding, but before I did I had this exact same problem with it. As far as a diode, we are the first and only owners of this house, and I’ve never replaced that bulb before, so it’s the bulb that was put there by the builder. It’s been out for some time, but we just replaced our master bathroom vanity fixtures and I bought bulbs for those, and figured I’d go ahead and replace other bulbs that are out. ne: I suppose I could check another bathroom fan in our house and see if what I can only imagine is an incandescent bulb works in this fan.
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Mar 3, 2021 18:00
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It's likely a problem with the socket, not the bulb, do you have a multimeter? Does the old bulb you took out work in other fixtures?
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Mar 3, 2021 18:02
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Elviscat posted:It's likely a problem with the socket, not the bulb, do you have a multimeter? No it’s definitely shot because the filament is broken
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Mar 3, 2021 18:05
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H110Hawk posted:Still have a warranty on the house? Because that is hilarious. If hardware in florida isn't meant to be wet basically 24/7 it's not suitable for outdoor use. Nope, warranty was for 12 months
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Mar 3, 2021 18:28
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Omne posted:Nope, warranty was for 12 months Well, I would see if Kwikset offers a warranty on the hardware then. In the mean time take it apart (2 long screws on the inside) and see if it's rusted on the inside. Hopefully kwikset offers a longer warranty. What other hardware is rusted out?
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Mar 3, 2021 18:30
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H110Hawk posted:Well, I would see if Kwikset offers a warranty on the hardware then. In the mean time take it apart (2 long screws on the inside) and see if it's rusted on the inside. Hopefully kwikset offers a longer warranty. What other hardware is rusted out? Yeah I plan to replace them with something else entirely, since these weren't really meant for outdoor use. The hinges on all the exterior doors (there's another door on this same exterior wall) are rusted as well. So I need to replace those, but also take care of whatever the dark spots are. I imagine it's something like sand it down, apply Killz, repaint.
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Mar 3, 2021 19:00
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life is killing me posted:No it’s definitely shot because the filament is broken Weird, sometimes the little prong at the base of the socket will get smushed down, and LED bulbs sometimes have slightly different bases, so they don't make good contact, if you can turn power off to the light you can try gently levering that contact up. How's ther light controlled? Its own switch? With the fan? Any humidistats/ timers/ dimmers/ other electronics that might work poorly with an led?
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Mar 3, 2021 19:06
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Omne posted:Yeah I plan to replace them with something else entirely, since these weren't really meant for outdoor use. The hinges on all the exterior doors (there's another door on this same exterior wall) are rusted as well. So I need to replace those, but also take care of whatever the dark spots are. I imagine it's something like sand it down, apply Killz, repaint. I would try a sponge (not a scrubber) and some mildew killer to start. I bet it wipes right off, but it's hard to tell what it is with the 1999 camera you're taking those pictures with. Also it's probably worth seeing if there is a longer statutory limit for this stuff, there is a chance they're required to keep the non-mechanical stuff working longer, or were supposed to use appropriate materials to begin with in construction. Mildew is a fact of life in Florida, but unless the wood underneath it is wet that could just be on the surface. Might be worth a call to the city to ask.
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Mar 3, 2021 19:14
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Elviscat posted:Weird, sometimes the little prong at the base of the socket will get smushed down, and LED bulbs sometimes have slightly different bases, so they don't make good contact, if you can turn power off to the light you can try gently levering that contact up. I will have to check the prong—and do you mean turn off the breaker? Or just keep the light switch off? There are two switches in each bathroom over the toilets and tubs: the fan is its own switch independent of the lights, but the tub light enclosure and the fan light turn on and off together on the second switch. So one only controls the fan and the other controls both lights on the same circuit with each other. In this bathroom it means only the tub light turns on and the fan light doesn’t, but fan will still turn on. Based on this I am thinking, to your point, that perhaps the prong needs to be bent a bit to make contact with the bulb base, in the absence of being able to make the effort to remove the incandescent from another bathroom
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Mar 3, 2021 19:16
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life is killing me posted:I will have to check the prong—and do you mean turn off the breaker? Or just keep the light switch off? Yeah, that makes it seem like it has to be an issue in the fan assembly itself. You should be fine bending the prong with the light switch off, it would be way better if you had a voltage tester of some sort. Either way try using something non-metallic too.
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Mar 3, 2021 19:20
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life is killing me posted:I will have to check the prong—and do you mean turn off the breaker? Or just keep the light switch off? I've had that happen before with sockets. The little tab at the bottom of the socket gets smushed down so flat that it can't touch the center contact of the new bulb. Get a flathead screwdriver and bend it up slightly. Turning off the breaker will work. And don't hulk out when screwing in the new bulb.
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Mar 3, 2021 19:43
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