Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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Omne: Jul 12, 2003; Orangedude Forever

H110Hawk posted:

I would try a sponge (not a scrubber) and some mildew killer to start. I bet it wipes right off, but it's hard to tell what it is with the 1999 camera you're taking those pictures with.

Also it's probably worth seeing if there is a longer statutory limit for this stuff, there is a chance they're required to keep the non-mechanical stuff working longer, or were supposed to use appropriate materials to begin with in construction. Mildew is a fact of life in Florida, but unless the wood underneath it is wet that could just be on the surface. Might be worth a call to the city to ask.

Hey man, that's an iPhone 12.

I'll try a sponge; last time I used a rag, some came off but not any significant amount

# ? Mar 3, 2021 20:11

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# ? May 29, 2024 18:04

H110Hawk: Dec 28, 2006

Omne posted:

Hey man, that's an iPhone 12.

I'll try a sponge; last time I used a rag, some came off but not any significant amount

The resolution posted is 400x800 or something. Check your settings.

And note I said with mildew killer - soap and water aren't the answer here. But that's speculation based on the pictures shown.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 20:25

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

I need some help re-doing my very, very old home's bathroom ventilation setup. Right now it's a dumb mess and I want to slap whoever did it.

Is this un-insulated flexible white ducting (seems to be some sort of very thin plastic) appropriate to use? Because the way this attic got "finished" I don't have much space to work with and the existing ducting is already quite snug.
Is it okay to have two fans join at a Y-connector like this?

I can put another hole in the roofing if necessary. Getting the whole roof re-shingled this spring so the timing to do so would be perfect.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Mar 3, 2021

# ? Mar 3, 2021 21:37

tangy yet delightful: Sep 13, 2005

Angles and lengths (and I suppose also materials used to construct the vent tubes) matter for determining if the exhaust fans can push the air actually out of your house. I don't know enough to tell you exactly here but part of figuring this out will be what's the total length from each fan to the exhaust point on your roof?

At the very least if those white tubes are ok to use you could seemingly connect them much closer to the roof hole and save a lot of length which should help with the exhaust efficiency.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 21:43

Tezer: Jul 9, 2001

melon cat posted:

I need some help re-doing my very, very old home's bathroom ventilation setup. Right now it's a dumb mess and I want to slap whoever did it.

Is this flexible white ducting (seems to be some sort of very thin plastic) appropriate to use?

Is it okay to have two fans join at a Y-connector like this?

I can put another hole in the roofing if necessary. Getting the whole roof re-shingled this spring so the timing to do so would be perfect.

Are you allowed to use the white flex? Yes, usually. Is it a good idea? No, usually. Swap in rigid metal with properly fastened and sealed seams or, given how tight that area is, metal flex would also be an upgrade.

I never 'Y' two fans together, but I think it technically is not forbidden. Bathroom fan ventilation is not as strict as a lot of other ventilation, as there aren't huge safety concerns, just a concern about smelling farts in two bathrooms at the same time.

The ducting should be insulated to help prevent condensation inside of the ducting. However, given that I don't see any insulation in your picture... that's not really a concern (the knee wall space you took a photo of will usually be at a high enough temperature to control condensation because there is no insulation to prevent heat migrating from adjacent rooms into the knee wall space).

Get another roof cap installed would be smart if you're replacing the roof anyways. Might as well fix the issue, even if it's minor.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 21:57

H110Hawk: Dec 28, 2006

melon cat posted:

I need some help re-doing my very, very old home's bathroom ventilation setup. Right now it's a dumb mess and I want to slap whoever did it.

Is it okay to have two fans join at a Y-connector like this?

Is there anything preventing "backflow" from one bathroom to the other if only 1 fan is on?

# ? Mar 3, 2021 22:06

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Tezer posted:

Are you allowed to use the white flex? Yes, usually. Is it a good idea? No, usually. Swap in rigid metal with properly fastened and sealed seams or, given how tight that area is, metal flex would also be an upgrade.

I never 'Y' two fans together, but I think it technically is not forbidden. Bathroom fan ventilation is not as strict as a lot of other ventilation, as there aren't huge safety concerns, just a concern about smelling farts in two bathrooms at the same time.

The ducting should be insulated to help prevent condensation inside of the ducting. However, given that I don't see any insulation in your picture... that's not really a concern (the knee wall space you took a photo of will usually be at a high enough temperature to control condensation because there is no insulation to prevent heat migrating from adjacent rooms into the knee wall space).

Get another roof cap installed would be smart if you're replacing the roof anyways. Might as well fix the issue, even if it's minor.

I'll likely TRY to cram in insulated ducting but if it can't fit will go with the metal flex as you suggested. Thanks for the pointers.

But re: heat migrating from adjacent rooms into the knee space- pretty sure this house does have this problem. As I was discussing with the roofer who is doing the work: century home attics don't "breathe" as well as current-era builds do. It gets hot as hell in the knee wall during the summer. Obviously not a great thing but apparently that's how houses were built at that time. Is there any way to vent out the knee wall space to let breathe better?

H110Hawk posted:

Is there anything preventing "backflow" from one bathroom to the other if only 1 fan is on?

Nothing whatsoever.

Follow-up question: is there a such thing as bathroom exhaust fans that terminate through their TOP side instead of through the side? Because it would make this job a whole lot easier.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Mar 3, 2021

# ? Mar 3, 2021 22:34

Elviscat: Jan 1, 2008; Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Oh man, all those low points are gonna be nasty as hell with mildew.

All the good fans exhaust out the side, if you slap a rigid metal 90 on there pointing up, that should help.

If you use a y, make sure there's a check valve of some sort to prevent back flowing through one fan with another.

When you run your new ducting, avoid having low spots that can collect moisture.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 23:17

H110Hawk: Dec 28, 2006

Any reason not to turn the whole unit 180 degrees and shoot it straight out of the wall?

# ? Mar 3, 2021 23:30

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Would the goon be better off putting the Y fitting right at the roof outlet? I'm definitely not an engineer, but I could *maybe* see that making it less likely that the goon will smell someone else making GBS threads in another bathroom. OTOH, maybe that would make it more likely?

# ? Mar 3, 2021 23:48

Tezer: Jul 9, 2001

melon cat posted:

I'll likely TRY to cram in insulated ducting but if it can't fit will go with the metal flex as you suggested. Thanks for the pointers.

But re: heat migrating from adjacent rooms into the knee space- pretty sure this house does have this problem. As I was discussing with the roofer who is doing the work: century home attics don't "breathe" as well as current-era builds do. It gets hot as hell in the knee wall during the summer. Obviously not a great thing but apparently that's how houses were built at that time. Is there any way to vent out the knee wall space to let breathe better?

That area should already be vented, depending on who put their grubby hands on the house over the last century. Worst case, it's probably 'loose' enough being a century old that it 'self ventilates'. The places to look will be the gable ends (the exterior walls at the 'end' of the knee wall area) where you might see a vent, or if you don't have insulation on the 'sloped' area of the roof then air can move towards the roof ridge where there may be a ridge vent. It's hard to say without more pictures, and more pictures may still not show enough.

If the knee wall area is hot and the interior of the house is not, then you're good - the knee wall area can be hot. Attics are always hot. What you want to prevent is the migration of that temperature into habitable spaces.

quote:

Follow-up question: is there a such thing as bathroom exhaust fans that terminate through their TOP side instead of through the side? Because it would make this job a whole lot easier.

This came up on a project last year where we were trying to reuse an existing bathroom vent that had a vertically ducted fan. We could only find one or two models, they were legacy units put out by Broan/Nutone and are super basic. We ended up just leaving the existing fan and buying a replacement trim cover from Broan.

Elviscat posted:

All the good fans exhaust out the side, if you slap a rigid metal 90 on there pointing up, that should help.

You probably don't have room to do anything else than what Elviscat is suggesting, but this will trigger the over-pressure sensor in a lot of the nicer bath fans. So if you end up replacing your bath fan with one that has adjustable speeds, it may think it has to ramp the speed up to compensate because the elbow installed right on the fan tricks it into thinking it has a back pressure issue. I made this mistake on the first house I built. It turns out there is a reason the Panasonic install guide says to only change direction after 2-4 feet of straight ducting.

# ? Mar 4, 2021 00:21

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Elviscat posted:

Oh man, all those low points are gonna be nasty as hell with mildew.

All the good fans exhaust out the side, if you slap a rigid metal 90 on there pointing up, that should help.

If you use a y, make sure there's a check valve of some sort to prevent back flowing through one fan with another.

When you run your new ducting, avoid having low spots that can collect moisture.

Oh no worries about the mildew- I just detached the old vinyl ducting from the exhaust fan unit and it turns out it was never properly attached to begin with.

Whichever dumb gently caress installed it just put the round vinyl duct onto the square hole half assedly slapped a bunch of duct tape onto it and left for the day. This thing has been venting into the attic knee wall since it was installed. Awesome.

Surprisingly it's not a nasty moldy mess up there. No choice but to rip this unit out and startnover. Might even have to saw off part of the floorboards and slightly relocate the exhaust vent, but, whatever.

H110Hawk posted:

Any reason not to turn the whole unit 180 degrees and shoot it straight out of the wall?

Maybe! Problem is though that I'd have to bore a large opening through the double brick and that side of the house is a lot higher than I'm comfortable working. And for some reason it's almost impossible to find a local contractor who's willing to do an exterior exhaust vent opening. It's an annoying job that they can't charge a whole lot of money for. And this knee wall space is cramped enough to make most contractors look at it then nope out.

Tezer posted:

You probably don't have room to do anything else than what Elviscat is suggesting, but this will trigger the over-pressure sensor in a lot of the nicer bath fans. So if you end up replacing your bath fan with one that has adjustable speeds, it may think it has to ramp the speed up to compensate because the elbow installed right on the fan tricks it into thinking it has a back pressure issue. I made this mistake on the first house I built. It turns out there is a reason the Panasonic install guide says to only change direction after 2-4 feet of straight ducting.

You're right on with the space issue. I might be able to free up an extra foot worth of space surrounding the exhaust fan unit but not much more. Which is a drat shame because I was hoping to replace the unit with one of those fancy Panasonic ones.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Mar 4, 2021

# ? Mar 4, 2021 00:34

Tezer: Jul 9, 2001

melon cat posted:

You're right on with the space issue. I might be able to free up an extra foot worth of space surrounding the exhaust fan unit but not much more. Which is a drat shame because I was hoping to replace the unit with one of those fancy Panasonic ones.

It's only an issue with the units that have 'Smart Flow'. The rest of them will run as set, but of course if you can do two 45 degree elbows instead of one 90 degree (or something similar to smooth out the curve) it's a good idea.

You should still look at the Panasonic Whisper line, just make sure you don't buy a 'Smart Flow' capable unit.

# ? Mar 4, 2021 01:03

Elviscat: Jan 1, 2008; Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Tezer posted:

You probably don't have room to do anything else than what Elviscat is suggesting, but this will trigger the over-pressure sensor in a lot of the nicer bath fans. So if you end up replacing your bath fan with one that has adjustable speeds, it may think it has to ramp the speed up to compensate because the elbow installed right on the fan tricks it into thinking it has a back pressure issue. I made this mistake on the first house I built. It turns out there is a reason the Panasonic install guide says to only change direction after 2-4 feet of straight ducting.

Oh poo poo, I didn't even think of that.

wesleywillis posted:

Would the goon be better off putting the Y fitting right at the roof outlet? I'm definitely not an engineer, but I could *maybe* see that making it less likely that the goon will smell someone else making GBS threads in another bathroom. OTOH, maybe that would make it more likely?

Well, total resistance to flow is the resistance coefficient of the pipe times length, so having a short pipe at the end of the Y and a long pipe going to the other fan couldn't do anything but help.

OP could probably do the Y straight into the roof vent.

Tezer posted:

It's only an issue with the units that have 'Smart Flow'. The rest of them will run as set, but of course if you can do two 45 degree elbows instead of one 90 degree (or something similar to smooth out the curve) it's a good idea.

You should still look at the Panasonic Whisper line, just make sure you don't buy a 'Smart Flow' capable unit.

Definitely second that recommendation.

# ? Mar 4, 2021 01:13

devicenull: May 30, 2007; Grimey Drawer

melon cat posted:

I need some help re-doing my very, very old home's bathroom ventilation setup. Right now it's a dumb mess and I want to slap whoever did it.

Is this un-insulated flexible white ducting (seems to be some sort of very thin plastic) appropriate to use? Because the way this attic got "finished" I don't have much space to work with and the existing ducting is already quite snug.

Is it okay to have two fans join at a Y-connector like this?

I can put another hole in the roofing if necessary. Getting the whole roof re-shingled this spring so the timing to do so would be perfect.

If you're getting the roof redone - I'd put the 'attic bathroom' duct as high up on the roof as you can, so you don't have to worry about it sloping downwards to meet the existing hole. Then just reuse the existing exhaust for only the 2nd floor fan. Make sure you slope all this so there's no weird pools like you have now.

I'd also recommend the Panasonic Whisper line - I'd also suggest putting in a humidity sensor/timer like this. Even if you don't have a shower, being able to hit the button to dissipate smells for a bit is really handy.

# ? Mar 4, 2021 03:03

mutata: Mar 1, 2003

There are also in-line exhaust fans that are kind of able to vent 2 bathrooms at once. The Y connector happens BEFORE the fan, and the fan is in the attic.

# ? Mar 4, 2021 03:52

life is killing me: Oct 28, 2007

Re: bathroom fan bulb, it was the prong, thanks goons!

Re: refrigerator leak, for those who replied: can�t figure out which is the drain line, but the pan seems wet and the freezer drawer seems dry underneath so now I have no idea wtf. Is it time to call a tech? I have a toddler so not sure I have the time to take all the food from the fridge and remove ice maker and back panel inside if that ends up being a necessity, but from the back looking into the drain pan it doesn�t seem like there�s a clog or freeze since it�s wet and that means something is draining in there. Samsung�s website is no help in troubleshooting because their solution for this problem is to call a tech, but thought I�d give one last effort at figuring it out before forking over cash to someone

e: may have to pull the panel off on the interior of the fridge; I found water and ice/slush under the �flex drawer� and after some YouTubing I am kind of guessing that the freeze/clog is somewhere around the evaporator because it doesn�t appear it�s making it to the drip pan if there�s water under the drawer

life is killing me fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Mar 4, 2021

# ? Mar 4, 2021 22:56

redreader: Nov 2, 2009; I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.; Dinosaur Gum

I have a dishwasher that's not cleaning well. I thought I'd checked the spray arms before but checking them again, there's grains of rice and nuts stuck in there. I think Ive got everything out apart from it seems one grain of rice. I take the arm off and stick (it fits well) the sink nozzle into the spray arm intake and then water starts going out of the spray arm and the rice clogs clearly cover the nozzles. I managed to get everything out with a pin but I can't get the final piece out, and I've spent like 10 minutes on this and wasted tons of water.

How do I dissolve rice in the spray arm? tweezers are too small for the gap but a pin will go in. I managed to put the pin through the side and sort of pull out all of the other pieces but this one piece is stuck. If I put the pin in the hole it always pushes the rice, it's just the wrong shape. I tried making the water go in through the out holes and hopefully the rice would go out through the main water-in hole but that doesn't seem to work either.

edit: fixed: submerged the entire thing in water and swished it around a bunch. The top green part of a cutie orange fell out.

redreader fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Mar 5, 2021

# ? Mar 4, 2021 23:37

eSporks: Jun 10, 2011

Leather working and shoe issue.

I've got a few pairs of boots that I want to convert from regular eyelets to hooks. What's the best way to do it?

I bought 2 types of hooks, ones with built in rivers, and ones you need to supply rivets for. The issue I am running into with both is that the existing hole is too big so the rivet has nothing to purchase and pulls through.

How do I reduce the whole size other than a really custom and super thin flange washer?

# ? Mar 5, 2021 00:19

VelociBacon: Dec 8, 2009

eSporks posted:

Leather working and shoe issue.

I've got a few pairs of boots that I want to convert from regular eyelets to hooks. What's the best way to do it?

I bought 2 types of hooks, ones with built in rivers, and ones you need to supply rivets for. The issue I am running into with both is that the existing hole is too big so the rivet has nothing to purchase and pulls through.

How do I reduce the whole size other than a really custom and super thin flange washer?

I do some leather working. I think the only decent solution you'll find is to add a strip of some die-matched leather to the underside of the upper where the holes are (will sit against the tongue when the boot is done up). Your hooks would be riveted to this piece, through the existing holes. You won't see this extra leather but you'll see the stitching from this on the outside of the upper. What boots are they? Have you already removed the metal eyelets?

# ? Mar 5, 2021 01:02

nitsuga: Jan 1, 2007

Hey! I�ve started painting my baseboards, and I�m about to start paint the boards that have hardwood flooring underneath. But now I�ve got some questions:

Should I caulk the bottom by the quarter round like I have on with the linoleum? If so, is acrylic latex (DAP Duraflex) fine enough for that? If not, any advice on how to tape it?

Also, what do I do to tape off carpeting? Thinking maybe I try and stuff the tape and paper under the baseboard? It�s not new or anything, but if I could avoid getting paint all over it I�d be much happier.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 03:37

Final Blog Entry: Jun 23, 2006; "Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

For painting against carpet I like to just use a blade or edge of some kind to push the carpet pile down and away from the baseboard as I go. A wide scraper, taping knife, paint guide, or even just a piece of cardboard can work well. Just wipe any wet paint off your implement of choice occasionally so you don't get it on the carpet.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 03:49

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

nitsuga posted:

Hey! I�ve started painting my baseboards, and I�m about to start paint the boards that have hardwood flooring underneath. But now I�ve got some questions:

Should I caulk the bottom by the quarter round like I have on with the linoleum? If so, is acrylic latex (DAP Duraflex) fine enough for that? If not, any advice on how to tape it?

Do NOT caulk the gap between the hardwood and the base shoe. Wood floors expand & contract with temperature & humidity changes. It needs to ride under the base shoe.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 04:12

nitsuga: Jan 1, 2007

PainterofCrap posted:

Do NOT caulk the gap between the hardwood and the base shoe. Wood floors expand & contract with temperature & humidity changes. It needs to ride under the base shoe.

Roger. Google was a mixed bag, but this is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Taping shouldn�t be too bad with the gap at least.

Final Blog Entry posted:

For painting against carpet I like to just use a blade or edge of some kind to push the carpet pile down and away from the baseboard as I go. A wide scraper, taping knife, paint guide, or even just a piece of cardboard can work well. Just wipe any wet paint off your implement of choice occasionally so you don't get it on the carpet.

Cool, I�ve got a closet I can hone my technique on too. Slow going, but it�s about what I should expect.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Mar 5, 2021

# ? Mar 5, 2021 04:18

angryrobots: Mar 31, 2005

redreader posted:

I have a dishwasher that's not cleaning well. I thought I'd checked the spray arms before but checking them again, there's grains of rice and nuts stuck in there. I think Ive got everything out apart from it seems one grain of rice. I take the arm off and stick (it fits well) the sink nozzle into the spray arm intake and then water starts going out of the spray arm and the rice clogs clearly cover the nozzles. I managed to get everything out with a pin but I can't get the final piece out, and I've spent like 10 minutes on this and wasted tons of water.

How do I dissolve rice in the spray arm? tweezers are too small for the gap but a pin will go in. I managed to put the pin through the side and sort of pull out all of the other pieces but this one piece is stuck. If I put the pin in the hole it always pushes the rice, it's just the wrong shape. I tried making the water go in through the out holes and hopefully the rice would go out through the main water-in hole but that doesn't seem to work either.

edit: fixed: submerged the entire thing in water and swished it around a bunch. The top green part of a cutie orange fell out.

Check your strainer - nothing that size should be getting pulled into the system. Either the strainer basket isn't sealing or there's a hole in it.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 16:59

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

What's the best way to seamlessly join two pieces of flexible metal ducting? Obviously I can't crimp them the way I can with rigid ducting.

I did buy the pictured duct connector but I don't like how it goes on the INSIDE of each adjoining piece of ducting then is clamped down from the outside. Or is less-than-airtight connectors just one of the trade-offs of not using rigid ducting and something I'll have to live with?

Also- what's the verdict on tension clamps versus worm clamps when working flexible metal ducting?

Thanks for all of your help with my attic ducting questions by the way. Really hoping to get this all done before it warms up significantly otherwise I'll be baking to death working in the knee wall

# ? Mar 5, 2021 17:41

life is killing me: Oct 28, 2007

My fridge defrost drain isn�t frozen shut and after squirting some water in, seems to work plenty fine. The whole evaporator is covered in frost, though, so now I�m definitely stumped. Gonna run it in forced defrost for a little while to see if that helps.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 17:55

Toebone: Jul 1, 2002; Start remembering what you hear.

melon cat posted:

What's the best way to seamlessly join two pieces of flexible metal ducting? Obviously I can't crimp them the way I can with rigid ducting.

I did buy the pictured duct connector but I don't like how it goes on the INSIDE of each adjoining piece of ducting then is clamped down from the outside. Or is less-than-airtight connectors just one of the trade-offs of not using rigid ducting and something I'll have to live with?

Also- what's the verdict on tension clamps versus worm clamps when working flexible metal ducting?

Thanks for all of your help with my attic ducting questions by the way. Really hoping to get this all done before it warms up significantly otherwise I'll be baking to death working in the knee wall

I'd use that connector, wrap the joint with foil tape, then tighten the clamps.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 18:05

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Toebone posted:

I'd use that connector, wrap the joint with foil tape, then tighten the clamps.

What this goon says.

Despite the name don't actually use "duct tape" on that poo poo, you want to use this: https://www.homedepot.ca/search?q=foil%20tape#!q=foil%20tape

# ? Mar 5, 2021 19:02

eSporks: Jun 10, 2011

VelociBacon posted:

I do some leather working. I think the only decent solution you'll find is to add a strip of some die-matched leather to the underside of the upper where the holes are (will sit against the tongue when the boot is done up). Your hooks would be riveted to this piece, through the existing holes. You won't see this extra leather but you'll see the stitching from this on the outside of the upper. What boots are they? Have you already removed the metal eyelets?

One pair I removed the existing eyelets, they are a soft, thin, flexible suede.
The other pair still has the eyelets, they are a thick workbook type.

Just to check my understanding. You are talking about stitching the backing plate on, correct?

It's crazy to me that no one makes oversized lace hooks for exactly this purpose.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 22:25

VelociBacon: Dec 8, 2009

eSporks posted:

One pair I removed the existing eyelets, they are a soft, thin, flexible suede.
The other pair still has the eyelets, they are a thick workbook type.

Just to check my understanding. You are talking about stitching the backing plate on, correct?

It's crazy to me that no one makes oversized lace hooks for exactly this purpose.

Yeah I'm talking about cutting two strips and sewing (and gluing) them on. It's possible if you don't care too much that you can offset the lace hooks just on the outside of the existing holes and that the laces themselves will mask the holes fairly well but this may prematurely wear the leather as the laces would be in contact with more of the leather on the uppers.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 22:40

redreader: Nov 2, 2009; I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.; Dinosaur Gum

angryrobots posted:

Check your strainer - nothing that size should be getting pulled into the system. Either the strainer basket isn't sealing or there's a hole in it.

It's a portable dishwasher. It's hooked up to the kitchen sink and we have to roll it away when it's done. Sometimes the outflow pipe gets blocked and the entire bottom of the dishwasher is full of water. Then I have to block the nozzle with a wet cloth and force water through so it forces water through the outflow pipe back into the dishwasher to unblock it. Then I have to take the filter stuff out and reach in there and try to get any crap out. But then there's just crud everywhere in the dishwasher and the filter stuff has been removed and crap is floating around everywhere... that must be when it happened. So now I'll keep it in mind to NOT remove the filter stuff when that happens and just hope I can take the block out anyway. Thanks!!!! And yeah now that I've removed all that stuff from the filter arms, it's working a lot better.

Thanks for helping me understand the inner workings of the old DW.

# ? Mar 5, 2021 22:55

Lawnie: Sep 6, 2006; That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
^{It doesn't even fit}; Grimey Drawer

I�m going to be running cat-6 cable through the walls of my house. What kind of specs for the cable are important to shop for? I�m probably going to try to find a crimper to borrow so I�ll buy the cable in bulk.

I�m planning on running one cat-6 cable to a switch in the attic, then several to ports in a few places around the house. Can I use the same holes in the top plate that the Romex or other wiring uses to run cables to outlet boxes in the same stud bay, or is it important to have separate holes for each? I haven�t gone up to look yet, but there�s definitely already some coax run in at least one place I want to put a port, so I�ll probably use whatever openings are already there for that port, but there are others in new locations I�m not so sure about.

Another question: while I�m at it I�m also going to be running speaker wire for a couple surround sound speakers through the attic. What�s the best practice for poking speaker wire through the drywall, both from the receiver into the stud bay and also back out to the speakers? It doesn�t seem like the kind of thing that needs a box, but I�m afraid I�m in the area of �knowledge enough to know the terms and tools but not the requirements� for wiring projects.

# ? Mar 6, 2021 16:47

devicenull: May 30, 2007; Grimey Drawer

Lawnie posted:

I�m going to be running cat-6 cable through the walls of my house. What kind of specs for the cable are important to shop for? I�m probably going to try to find a crimper to borrow so I�ll buy the cable in bulk.

Doesn't really matter for the distance's you'll be going in your house. Something like this would be fine: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=40658 You're planning on doing wall plates right, not just shoving ethernet through the wall and putting a connector on it?

quote:

Another question: while I�m at it I�m also going to be running speaker wire for a couple surround sound speakers through the attic. What�s the best practice for poking speaker wire through the drywall, both from the receiver into the stud bay and also back out to the speakers? It doesn�t seem like the kind of thing that needs a box, but I�m afraid I�m in the area of �knowledge enough to know the terms and tools but not the requirements� for wiring projects.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3639 plus https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7015 (you'll need a bunch of the second one for the wall plates you're putting in for your ethernet

# ? Mar 6, 2021 16:58

Super-NintendoUser: Jan 16, 2004; COWABUNGERDER COMPADRES; Soiled Meat

Lawnie posted:

I�m going to be running cat-6 cable through the walls of my house. What kind of specs for the cable are important to shop for? I�m probably going to try to find a crimper to borrow so I�ll buy the cable in bulk.

I�m planning on running one cat-6 cable to a switch in the attic, then several to ports in a few places around the house. Can I use the same holes in the top plate that the Romex or other wiring uses to run cables to outlet boxes in the same stud bay, or is it important to have separate holes for each? I haven�t gone up to look yet, but there�s definitely already some coax run in at least one place I want to put a port, so I�ll probably use whatever openings are already there for that port, but there are others in new locations I�m not so sure about.

Another question: while I�m at it I�m also going to be running speaker wire for a couple surround sound speakers through the attic. What�s the best practice for poking speaker wire through the drywall, both from the receiver into the stud bay and also back out to the speakers? It doesn�t seem like the kind of thing that needs a box, but I�m afraid I�m in the area of �knowledge enough to know the terms and tools but not the requirements� for wiring projects.

Heyo, just a thought. I have a pile of keystone jacks for speaker banana plugs. I was going to toss the, but if you want them I can sent them to you for just shipping. I probably have around 20 jacks and plugs:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8434
plus the banana plug itself:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9436

If you are interested, let me check to see how many I have, and your zip and I can check with USPS on the cost to ship. I'd like to just get rid of them.

# ? Mar 6, 2021 17:07

Lawnie: Sep 6, 2006; That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
^{It doesn't even fit}; Grimey Drawer

devicenull posted:

Doesn't really matter for the distance's you'll be going in your house. Something like this would be fine: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=40658 You're planning on doing wall plates right, not just shoving ethernet through the wall and putting a connector on it?

For sure will be using wall plates.

quote:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3639 plus [url]https:// https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7015[/url] (you'll need a bunch of the second one for the wall plates you're putting in for your ethernet

The description for the gang box says that it adjusts to fit wall plates flush with the mounting surface - this is the back surface of the plate, correct? Is there a way I can recess the speaker connection plate so I can hang the speaker on the wall directly in front of it and just use a little junction of speaker wire to connect the two? Maybe that�s how this configuration installs anyway and I�m just not picturing it correctly.

I browsed around on monoprice and saw they have quite a lot of options for low voltage wall plates. I�m planning on going to a big box hardware store this weekend, so I�ll look at what they have in-person and see if I can wrap my head around the configurations.

E: can I just plug a banana plug right into these connectors? That seems much simpler than I was imagining.

E2 to answer my own question: I need a pin connector to stick into the speakers. I think i can just buy these and attach them to the wall plate, then plug directly into the speaker.

Lawnie fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Mar 6, 2021

# ? Mar 6, 2021 17:19

H110Hawk: Dec 28, 2006

Caveat on monoprice - don't use their tool-less cat6 keystone. They don't work. I threw away mine and bought some more expensive ones that just work.

# ? Mar 6, 2021 17:36

tater_salad: Sep 15, 2007

Lawnie posted:

For sure will be using wall plates.

The description for the gang box says that it adjusts to fit wall plates flush with the mounting surface - this is the back surface of the plate, correct? Is there a way I can recess the speaker connection plate so I can hang the speaker on the wall directly in front of it and just use a little junction of speaker wire to connect the two? Maybe that�s how this configuration installs anyway and I�m just not picturing it correctly.

I browsed around on monoprice and saw they have quite a lot of options for low voltage wall plates. I�m planning on going to a big box hardware store this weekend, so I�ll look at what they have in-person and see if I can wrap my head around the configurations.

E: can I just plug a banana plug right into these connectors? That seems much simpler than I was imagining.

E2 to answer my own question: I need a pin connector to stick into the speakers. I think i can just buy these and attach them to the wall plate, then plug directly into the speaker.

these speakers wont use a banna plug way to small. you can just directly put the wire in the spring clip or use the pin connector.

# ? Mar 6, 2021 20:20

alnilam: Nov 10, 2009

See this row of cabinets?

Thinkin about getting rid of them. We don't really need the space and it would open the kitchen up a little more.

Is cabinet removal a DIY-able project for someone who's not an idiot with tools but not super experienced either? They seem to be nailed into the ceiling, possibly glue too. I'm guessing it will mostly be cutting and prying the cabinet tops away from the ceiling. For simplicity, and because I think it will look okay, I would probably leave that boxy ceiling protrusion in place and slap some drywall on the bottom if necessary. Making the backsplash look right where the cabinets used to be might a little tricky too. Are there any other complications I'm not foreseeing?

Also the cabinet way on the right is separate, they don't connect through:

# ? Mar 6, 2021 20:35

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# ? May 29, 2024 18:04

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Taking down cabinetry isn't "difficult" but you will need to have someone fairly strong (1-2 people) who can catch them as they get unfastened from the wall. Cabinetry is heavy as poo poo especially since that entire row looks like it's one solid piece. Remove/disconnect that undermounted lighting to make it easier and safer, and also get protective covering for your granite countertops so they don't get damaged if the cabinetry falls during removal. I don't think they're nailed to the ceiling as nails alone wouldn't hold secure something so heavy to a ceiling.

That boxy ceiling protrusion is the trim moulding (at least I think that's what you're referring to). It might detach easily from the cabinetry, but it might not.

Also consider calling Habitat for Humanity and ask them if they are accepting cabinetry donations. We once had their team come by and they took down the cabinets and gave us a tax receipt for our donation. But that does depend on how "nice" they deem your cabinets to be, and yours do look pretty dated.

Toebone posted:

I'd use that connector, wrap the joint with foil tape, then tighten the clamps.

Will do that. And will def use foil tape. The existing ducting fell apart because, you guessed it, previous owner used "duct tape".

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Mar 7, 2021

# ? Mar 6, 2021 23:54

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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