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Update: Can't get the goddamned cover off so I used a coat hanger to snake stuff and holy mother of god I filled half a shopping bag with the previous owners hair and now it drains like normal. Now excuse me while I go burn all my clothes.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:32
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Probably would have to remove the grout around the drain cover. I do not know what the preference is for grout vs caulk in that spot, but the cover shouldn't be permanently sealed in.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:38
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Yeah I removed everything covering the top but then realized it's so solid I'd have to keep digging down. For now since the drainage is good I'm going to just add a silicon cover to catch hair and prevent buildup. I like the house we got but goddamn, a recurring theme is "looks nice and is impossible to maintain".
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Mar 19, 2021 20:42
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Less Fat Luke posted:Yeah I removed everything covering the top but then realized it's so solid I'd have to keep digging down. For now since the drainage is good I'm going to just add a silicon cover to catch hair and prevent buildup. "homeownership thread: a recurring theme is "Looks nice and is impossible to maintain"
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Mar 19, 2021 21:03
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FogHelmut posted:I'm building one of those cedar playhouses from Costco for my kid this weekend. I want to get 10 years out of it if possible, so I'm concerned about direct ground contact. My wife thinks I'm overthinking this (I am, its what I do). How long can I expect it to be safe without additional effort? I was thinking of just laying a line of pavers around the base to keep it off the dirt/grass, or even a course of 3/4 gravel a few inches wide. I was also considering painting the bottom with copper green. There was one of these in my yard when I bought the house. I think it's going on about year 7 now, and it's completely falling apart. Not from the ground up, surprisingly. Just in general, these are just so cheaply made that they disintegrate. I think mine was from Lowes, but same thing I'm sure. I'm ripping it out this spring and building a completely over-engineered fortress.
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Mar 19, 2021 21:04
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tater_salad posted:"homeownership thread: a recurring theme is "Looks nice and is impossible to maintain" My sister is learning the "what the gently caress were these people thinking" bit with her newly purchased house full of Time/Life repair book-level fixes. This week I'm on the "why don't they just loving make cabinets out of paper then" lesson
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Mar 19, 2021 21:16
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:There was one of these in my yard when I bought the house. I think it's going on about year 7 now, and it's completely falling apart. Not from the ground up, surprisingly. Just in general, these are just so cheaply made that they disintegrate. I think mine was from Lowes, but same thing I'm sure. Yeah it's a little disconcerting that it's only anchored to the ground with a 13-in spike on each corner, but I'm not about to pour footings. Maybe upgrade to 2 foot rebar. It's going in the middle of the grass I just don't want it to rot away prematurely.
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Mar 19, 2021 21:21
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So I have a wood swingset in my back yard. It has a wood plan roof, with these 4" planks that are the length of the root (maybe 4-5'). One is cracked and I can't find a replacement. I'm not sure what to look for, maybe cedar roof planks or something? I'm not near it for a pic but it looks like this: I'm just at a loss as to what to search for.
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Mar 20, 2021 00:11
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"Cedar lap siding"
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Mar 20, 2021 00:34
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Elviscat posted:"Cedar lap siding" That's exactly it. Lowes has it on their site but it's not available. I'll call the local lumber yard and see if they have some. I just need one piece, but it looks like it comes in a bundle.
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Mar 20, 2021 00:44
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The Slack Lagoon posted:PO put up whitewash - will that damage the brick? If all the brick is above grade then that's different and you have more leeway in getting the perfect mortar mix versus using something close enough, but you still wouldn't want to cover it with hydraulic cement or use a modern mortar blend. By whitewash do you mean limewash? That's a traditional way of treating brick and not going to cause any issues, it's very permeable and basically just functions as an ablative layer for erosion. If they painted it, it'll eventually flake off from trapped moisture and look like rear end but it's also not at all durable so it'll still be the point of failure before the brick. The "traditional" interior coating to watch out for is parging, since if it's not done with something that exactly matches the permeability of the brick and mortar it'll cause tons of erosion behind it. corgski fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 00:55
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Jerk McJerkface posted:That's exactly it. Lowes has it on their site but it's not available. I'll call the local lumber yard and see if they have some. I just need one piece, but it looks like it comes in a bundle. If you have any cedar specialists in your area they might have it. They also make it in plywood form, which you can paint to match the cedar kinda, obviously that will always look like poo poo.
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Mar 20, 2021 01:04
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FogHelmut posted:Yeah it's a little disconcerting that it's only anchored to the ground with a 13-in spike on each corner, but I'm not about to pour footings. Maybe upgrade to 2 foot rebar. It's going in the middle of the grass I just don't want it to rot away prematurely. If it's a wood playset, I would think applying deck sealer it would extend the life of the wood. Also wood expands and contracts with the weather, and I KNOW there's a detrimental effect when you try to constrain it too much, but a concrete post hole on the corners would keep it from tipping for sure.
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Mar 20, 2021 01:52
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Wasabi the J posted:If it's a wood playset, I would think applying deck sealer it would extend the life of the wood. Oh yeah it's treated from the factory, and they recommend resealing it yearly.
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Mar 20, 2021 02:17
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I've been upgrading light switches at my place and it's been quite simple and straightforward...until I got to this one...i opened the box behind the single pole switch and idk...it looks like this maybe should be a two pole box? Is that right? Is there any way to wire this together with a single pole? From what I can tell the PO just skipped the top right and bottom left and straight wired the top left to the bottom right, which is why this particular switch never did anything. 
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Mar 20, 2021 02:20
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Can you take a picture of the inside of the box? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around your diagram.
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Mar 20, 2021 02:26
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http://imgur.com/a/fitTl4X Sure, here you go
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Mar 20, 2021 02:35
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Okay, it looks like bottom left is a "traveler" for a three way switch, is there another location with a switch that doesn't work or a blank cover? A lot of homeowners try to wire up 3-ways and don't know what they're doing. You're saying top right and bottom left weren't connected at all, right? That looks like a 4-square box, so if you wanted two switches in there a little excavating and mud work would get you there. Or a double-stack switch. What do you want this switch to do? Do you want to switch the outdoor lights, bed outlets, or bed+outdoor? Do you want to try and restore 3-way functionality? Any of these are possible.
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Mar 20, 2021 02:59
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Elviscat posted:Okay, it looks like bottom left is a "traveler" for a three way switch, is there another location with a switch that doesn't work or a blank cover? A lot of homeowners try to wire up 3-ways and don't know what they're doing. The traveller doesn't seem to connect to anything else, all of the other outlets and switches are working with it disconnected. Yeah those two had no live wires and weren't connected. I think I'd really just like it to switch the outdoor lights - and i want the bed outlet to be constant. El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 03:26
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If you just want to switch outdoor lights that's easy, power in and power to lights go to single pole switch, neutrals together under a wire-nut, leave grounds connected as-is, and wire-nut the ends of unused wires. If half your bed outlet is switched (i.e. top or bottom only) remove and wire nut the wire to the switched half and replace the outlet. If the whole outlet is switched, wire-nut the power in and bed light hots together with a length of black wire coming out of the nut and going to the switch. Include the bed outlet white/neutral with the other two under a wire nut.
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Mar 20, 2021 03:35
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Actually it looks like the bottom left ??? in there goes to another switch for the outdoor lights. Leaving that disconnected is leaving that switch non-functional now.
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Mar 20, 2021 04:07
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gently caress replied to wrong thread xposting hereerosion posted:hey follow up to the garage issue, i got the knob removed and replaced with a deadbolt, so yay!
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Mar 20, 2021 04:35
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erosion posted:gently caress replied to wrong thread xposting here Uh, are you checking voltage at a panel, receptacle, or something else? You should probably post pictures of the slapdash wiring in any case. Also what brand of voltmeter are you using on mains voltage?
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Mar 20, 2021 04:56
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angryrobots posted:Uh, are you checking voltage at a panel, receptacle, or something else? You should probably post pictures of the slapdash wiring in any case. There's a GFI socket on the outside that gives pretty consistent readings, the inside receptacles are harder to get a read on. there's an outside LED bulb that barely flickers, and the rolling door button also flickers. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get pics, it's not really feasible at night as you can probably imagine. it's a radio shack voltmeter, likely a collectors item at this point
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Mar 20, 2021 05:15
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You're metering in AC right? Not DC? Does the meter give you 120V elsewhere in the house without messing with it between readings?
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Mar 20, 2021 14:27
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I'm building my shop over the next several weeks. Weather has been an issue slowing it all down. If I buy the lumber now (because the price is only going to go up this summer), is keeping it off the ground and covered with a tarp good enough to protect it until I start framing? My friend says the humidity is enough to warp/destroy the wood even if off the ground and under a tarp.
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Mar 20, 2021 18:23
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Ask a bunch of people and you'll get a bunch of answers. I've found the sun and rain to be the biggest factors and had good luck storing it under a tarp and well elevated so moisture can't build up, ymmv
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Mar 20, 2021 18:56
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Elviscat posted:Ask a bunch of people and you'll get a bunch of answers. I'm thinking I can just uncover it when the rain is over. In my mind that seems just fine, but there could be something I just don't know.
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Mar 20, 2021 18:58
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Getting ready to paint my exposed basement ceiling. These are junction boxes for my recessed LED lights. Do I need to tape them off before we spray, or will they be fine?   
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Mar 20, 2021 19:04
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When I was building my workshop, it got soaked by rain and fog a few times. Folks I asked about that said that it wasn't a big problem so long as the wood was able to dry out afterwards. I did keep my stockpiles covered (and lifted off the ground), mostly because if water gets into the middle of the pile then it might take a long time to dry out. You'll still likely see some of the boards you purchase end up warped, simply because they're newly-cut boards and haven't finished releasing tension. You can use the most-warped boards wherever you need a short piece, since the warping won't be as evident over short distances.
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Mar 20, 2021 19:09
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spacetoaster posted:I'm thinking I can just uncover it when the rain is over. In my mind that seems just fine, but there could be something I just don't know. The sun will warp then really bad really quick IME, even when it's dry. dakana posted:Getting ready to paint my exposed basement ceiling. You should tape them off, opening and servicing them can be a pain if you don't.
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Mar 20, 2021 19:10
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Elviscat posted:The sun will warp then really bad really quick IME, even when it's dry. Oh man, I didn’t even think of the fact that paint would essentially glue them shut. I’ve got a date with a roll of painter’s tape now...
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Mar 20, 2021 20:06
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So related to my intention to replace the packing on the bonnets on the valve, it got me thinking as to what I could do if for some reason I hosed up the bonnet. Since the bonnet is ultimately screwed on, is it feasible to use a brass cap to just cap it? Would the standard sizes work? Is this a thing that plumbers have tools lying around to handle? (I do have Sharkbites, but those don't work on screws, AFAIK) Here's a couple of pictures of the shut-off valves I have:   Edit: Worth mentioning that none of these have any shutoff valves except for the main one. floWenoL fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 22:33
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Never mind
KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 22:42
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Elviscat posted:I'd make a little pad for it with PT 2x4 sleepers and some marine plywood. You want something to elevate it iff the ground so water and mud and poo poo doesn't just flow in. Would that be up to the pressure of a car and/or jackstands? Maybe I'm underestimating the strength of plywood but I'm thinking unless I had an inch and a half of it or spaced the sleepers maybe three inches apart it would only be a matter of time until the plywood broke and I really would not want to be under the car when that happened.
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Mar 20, 2021 23:18
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H110Hawk posted:You're metering in AC right? Not DC? Does the meter give you 120V elsewhere in the house without messing with it between readings? getting 122 in the kitchen so that's kosher. weirdly the GFI on another circuit attached to the actual house is only getting like 300-400 mV so idk wtf that's about. and yes I hosed with the test and reset buttons to no avail so maybe that's just a shot GFI. oh for another example of how hosed the wiring is here, the kitchen, living room, bathroom, and one of the three bedrooms are all on a single circuit for some dipshit reason. the voltmeter in question:  inside garage receptacles:   yeah, yikes. good news is I found the breaker for the garage and switched it off for the time being so hopefully it doesn't burn down. main hypothesis at the moment is the fence installation may have partially cut the main from the house but I'll have to check that later. the gate was installed pretty close to the wire as far as I can tell. thanks again
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Mar 21, 2021 00:06
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erosion posted:getting 122 in the kitchen so that's kosher. weirdly the GFI on another circuit attached to the actual house is only getting like 300-400 mV so idk wtf that's about. and yes I hosed with the test and reset buttons to no avail so maybe that's just a shot GFI. Do you get 60V on both those outlets?
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Mar 21, 2021 00:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Would that be up to the pressure of a car and/or jackstands? Maybe I'm underestimating the strength of plywood but I'm thinking unless I had an inch and a half of it or spaced the sleepers maybe three inches apart it would only be a matter of time until the plywood broke and I really would not want to be under the car when that happened. Yeah, scratch that idea if you're going to be under the car, I really don't have any good ideas besides a small concrete pad.
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Mar 21, 2021 00:18
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Orlando, Florida here. Might be too big a question for the thread, so let me know. A friend had some work done after some major water damage (drain pan under the ac flooded and then let go over a bedroom closet) and in the process of fixing it all up discovered that the flue from his 1940s original oil heater (long since gone) was unstable and had to go. Now he has a hole in the floor of what will be a closet and neither he nor I really know what to do with it.   The wall behind the hole is an interior wall with a bathroom on the other side. This is in a 1940s house thrown up by the Air Force and is structurally unmodified since that time below the roofline. I'm assuming the right thing to do would be to knock out those cinder blocks and frame in the hole with 2x6s, then lay down a small patch of subfloor over it even with the rest of the room, but I wanted a sanity check. There's a crawlspace beneath the house and I have little experience with flooring that needs to be critterproofed. Am I on the right path or am I barking up a totally wrong tree? Shit Fuckasaurus fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 21:59
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Plastik posted:
I don't think so, that sounds like exactly the thing to do.
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Mar 22, 2021 01:16
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