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actionjackson posted:bight is a word though, but it means to fasten with a rope :p It's more like a loop or bend of the rope. Apparently it's also used in geology, so it seemed plausible there was a electric topology equivalent
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Apr 25, 2021 00:40
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i'm happy to report that the bathroom gfci only took 15 minutes :p
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Apr 25, 2021 00:58
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I mean, maybe in a knotted tap. I'm literally a sailor, you can't expect me to know the difference between bite and bight lol. What was up with your GFIs?
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Apr 25, 2021 01:52
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Elviscat posted:
see post on bottom of last page tl;dr i'm a dummy who assumed the line and load would be in the same orientation as the old outlets without actually looking, so I had both reversed now I just gotta switch the remaining toggles to rockers and complete the decora-fication
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Apr 25, 2021 01:56
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Yeha I generally do gfci different than regular Kill breaker Verify dead with nc tester Nut all wire ends Turn on breaker Verify the line side with nc tester. Turn off breaker Verify Dead. Replace. otherwise I end up doing the thing 3 times over because of the usb end principal
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Apr 25, 2021 02:13
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I assume you nut the ends (lol) so you can test the wires safely while the power is on?
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Apr 25, 2021 02:21
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Right.. it's overkill if they're separated etc but better safe than sorry.
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Apr 25, 2021 02:43
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CzarChasm posted:Is there a good way to patch those? Are vinyl patching kits a thing that you can get in an average big box store? As far as patches I'm not sure they make anything specifically for it but I believe you can individually buy the covers they sell for the post holes at the end of a run which you might be able to make work. If you're going to do something like that I'd use the actual adhesive they sell for attaching post caps to vinyl fences (which is basically just colored PVC cement) which is a few bucks a tube at Lowes Depot.
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Apr 25, 2021 14:36
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actionjackson posted:I assume you nut the ends (lol) so you can test the wires safely while the power is on? It's overkill if you live alone or with adults who will follow instructions. If you have kids around, even with locked doors, you should be doing overkill. Really you should be removing the children from the area if they're too young to stay the hell out of the work zone.
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Apr 26, 2021 02:45
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H110Hawk posted:It's overkill if you live alone or with adults who will follow instructions. If you have kids around, even with locked doors, you should be doing overkill. Really you should be removing the children from the area if they're too young to stay the hell out of the work zone. Or if you're in eastern Europe get them to pass you tools.
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Apr 26, 2021 03:31
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VelociBacon posted:Or if you're in eastern Europe get them to pass you tools. They can pass you tools - it's leaving the wires unsupervised while you throw the breaker. Protip have them throw the breaker.
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Apr 26, 2021 04:19
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realistically I do not nut the wires.. I keep them spread out and tell my partner don't go into said room I'm doing electricity work. But I'm not going to tell someone else not to wire-nut them because I don't know their circumstances / level of knowledge on how to make sure you don't arc to a metal box / each-other or keep your partner/roommate/dog/fish from going into the room and touching wires.
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Apr 26, 2021 13:16
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Lever nuts. Take 2 seconds to pop on, bonus you can use the unused terminal(s) to test voltage once you power back on.
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Apr 26, 2021 13:33
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Mirabelle jetted tub faucet has been leaking. Not sure what brand the faucet is, probably delta, but the set screws have backed off the handles and they can both be pulled off the top. Housekeeper cleaned last week and since then the faucet has been dripping. Up to now I’ve been able to take the handles off and turn the valves with a wrench to a point it would simply drip slowly instead of a steady stream, but now that won’t work as well as it did. Last night it didn’t work at all. I have a tankless but cannot for the life of me figure out where the shutoff for the tub would be if there even is one. All the other fixtures like toilets and sinks have their own shutoff valves for hot and cold, but not the tub. Relatively newer tub. I’m thinking it’s the faucet but unsure.
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Apr 26, 2021 13:59
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Super basic and simple question. I am trying to remove the shower head + hose in my shower. It looks like this: https://imgur.com/JnZNG0l Although there are minor indents, I am having a hard time getting a good grip on it to unscrew it. What do I need in order to remove this?
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Apr 26, 2021 14:18
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Busy Bee posted:Super basic and simple question. I am trying to remove the shower head + hose in my shower. It looks like this: Use something like a yellow dishwashing glove or old bike tube around the fixture and grab into it with pliers.
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Apr 26, 2021 14:22
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DaveSauce posted:Lever nuts. I was going to ask what the HCH stance is on these. Wire nuts are pretty straightforward, but it is nice to skip the step of twisting the wires together.
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Apr 26, 2021 17:34
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Blowjob Overtime posted:I was going to ask what the HCH stance is on these. Wire nuts are pretty straightforward, but it is nice to skip the step of twisting the wires together. Personal stance as an electrical engineer that has worked in multiple test labs and have witnessed how they perform as part of hookups in 1000 amp overload tests: I would use Wago 221 or the older grey version (can't remember the number) without hesitation, assuming wires are straight and you meet the size ratings printed on the connector. I have them in about half the junction boxes in my house. The 5-wide versions are especially great for grounds in larger boxes with many devices. I will use the push-on types like Wago 773 for single fixture hookups. I wouldn't personally use them in boxes that could carry full load current to other circuit parts. The lack of mechanical retention other than the built-in grabber spring makes me twitchy. I know they're rated and should be fine but it's a personal preference. Again, just my personal preference based on experience.
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Apr 26, 2021 18:38
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Blowjob Overtime posted:I was going to ask what the HCH stance is on these. Wire nuts are pretty straightforward, but it is nice to skip the step of twisting the wires together. I've used them a handful of times at work in industrial panels when I couldn't find the wire stretcher, love them. Bought a couple boxes for home a bit ago and I plan on replacing wire nuts as I work on things. Should have bought them a few years ago when I was installing a bunch of fans, but oh well. I've read some people are kind of "meh" on them and concerned about long-term reliability, but I don't know that there's anything to support that. I mean, they haven't even been out all that long, so I guess there isn't really long-term reliability info to be had, but as long as what you get are UL/whatever listed you should be fine. edit: per above, Wago is the name of the game. I'm sure other companies make them, but if you look around Wago practically became the Kleenex of lever nuts. Wago is a very reputable company in the wire connection world. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Apr 26, 2021 |
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Apr 26, 2021 18:43
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Lever splices like the wago 221s are fine as long as you prepare your connections exactly properly and don't just jam a previously twisted wire in there or something with the wrong amount of insulation stripped. Push-in splices have all the same issues as backstabs and should be avoided at all costs. They basically just exist so cut-rate builders can throw up an entire subdivision worth of McMansions before they start to collapse in on themselves. Personally I use wing nuts (e.g. Ideal 451) because that's what was used when I was taught and IMO there can only be benefits to making sure your wires have a good mechanical connection to each other directly that isn't dependent on a connector.
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Apr 26, 2021 19:30
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Thanks for the feedback. Very happy to know about the Wago lever-style. An EE coworker at an old job turned me on to the push-on type that are available at big box stores, but it did seem pretty easy to pull them off. Not shocked to find out there is something better available.
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Apr 26, 2021 20:22
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I hate the push in ones, I've personally had to hunt down and replace multiple that have burned open instead of tripping the breaker under fault current, IDGAF if UL listed them and they're an approved method, 4-backwire Levitons were listed and approved too, and those routinely melt into charcoal lumps under high currents, the push in connectors have the exact same problem of not enough surface area and a spring that is subject to weakening from thermal effects. The lever-locking ones seem nice, and the ease of installation vs a wire-nut is probably worth it, especially for someone with less experience making splices. I, personally will stick with the Ideal 341s I was taught to make splices with that could withstand being placed in a vice, and the wires hauled on with a pair of Linman's without coming apart.
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Apr 26, 2021 20:27
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edit: nm
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 16:47
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How much do stump/root killers like potassium nitrate or glyphosate spread? Last summer I cut down a very overgrown lilac bush that couldn't really be saved because of a bunch of also overgrown wild grape vines around every branch. Now the stumps are trying to re-grow even though I ground them down below the dirt. Persistent little fuckers. But I have a tree that the lilac bush was growing around I want to keep, hence why I was hesitant to use chemicals. But if they can stay relatively "local" to the stump, then I can at least eliminate most of the little stumps that aren't right next to the tree. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 19:46
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DrBouvenstein posted:How much do stump/root killers like potassium nitrate or glyphosate spread? Arborists will get a concentrated goopy-textured glyphosate and actually paint it onto the cut surface of the stump with a brush. An arborist friend of mine did this and told me it won't spread through the roots at all (and he is into organic gardening so I don't think he was being dismissive)
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Apr 27, 2021 19:56
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Does anyone have a "how much will it cost to paint this room" calculator that they want to vouch for? Bought a house yesterday ( ) and am trying to get the ground floor painted this week or early next, I have a quote in-hand and it seems reasonable enough from a quick Google search for this type of calculator, but I want to be sure before I drop this kind of money on it. A good painter, it turns out, is expensive!
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Apr 27, 2021 23:40
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There is no calculator it all depends on the room and the market the paint you want and how many costs it might need. Generally at this juncture in time expect to pay: labor, paint, covid tax. Everyone is getting poo poo done to their house because they're spending a lot of time there, so contractors are charging more.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:39
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you may want to call your local hardware store and ask for a referral. they will usually be able to connect you with someone reasonable. just get several estimates.
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Apr 28, 2021 01:21
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to get an outlet behind your toilet so you can use all those fancy bidets/bidet seats, I was told there was two ways to do this: 1) run a new connection from the breaker box, requiring you to make a big mess as you have to open the wall and ceiling up, which I'm sure is not cheap 2) run a shorter connection from the existing bathroom GFCI, which is illegal and I'm guessing dangerous Is that it? It would be soooo nice to have another outlet there.
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Apr 28, 2021 02:33
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Why would running a circuit off a gfci be illegal? As long as you wire it such that the gfci outlet also protects your new branch. That’s literally how they protect other outlets in your bathroom.
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Apr 28, 2021 02:34
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I have this very old exterior wood door: Problem is the inner panel is popping out and separating from the outer panel. Likely due to decades of contraction and expansion. So now there's a gap alllll the way around the perimeter of the inner panel, letting in drafts and causing lots of leakage.  What can I do to fix this? Remove the "stile" trim, and add some sort of caulking/glue, then re-nail the trim back onto the door? melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 02:54
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Bad Munki posted:Why would running a circuit off a gfci be illegal? As long as you wire it such that the gfci outlet also protects your new branch. That’s literally how they protect other outlets in your bathroom. this is just what the contractor I asked told me  I don't have any other outlets in my bathroom, if that's relevant. So is the idea then that you run romex cable from the existing GFCI box, behind the wall, and into a new box, then just cut the drywall and put in that box? that seems to be what some youtube vids are showing, and also that if the breaker goes into the existing GFCI first, then the second outlet does not have to be GFCI don't worry, I would 100% hire an electrician to do this! just curious how it works. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 02:57
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actionjackson posted:to get an outlet behind your toilet so you can use all those fancy bidets/bidet seats, I was told there was two ways to do this: A lot depends on the model you are looking to install. You need to meet electrical code requirements as well as the manufacturer's install requirements. The draw might require a dedicated circuit (per code), or it might need a dedicated circuit because the manufacturer says it needs one and that takes precedence. Post the model if you have one picked out. I think every heated Kohler united requires a dedicated, but there are a few heated Toto units that do not. If there is no heater (it just squirts supply temperature water), a dedicated circuit is typically not required by the manufacturer or building code.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:12
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Ah, yeah, I didn’t think of heating and draw. That makes sense. If it were just a general purpose outlet, that’d be a different story, I think.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:19
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Bad Munki posted:Ah, yeah, I didn’t think of heating and draw. That makes sense. If it were just a general purpose outlet, that’d be a different story, I think. The inspectors I've worked with consider bidets 'fastened in place' utilization equipment which, under the codes I've been subject to, means that the bidet can be a maximum of 50% of the circuit rating assuming no other fastened in place utilization equipment on the same circuit. This is why some bidets with lower draws can be installed without a dedicated circuit.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:29
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melon cat posted:I have this very old exterior wood door: This seems odd to me...the panel ought to be big enough that no amount of contraction/expansion would allow it to leave a gap around any of the edges. Or that's what I would think, anyway. Can you move the panel around within the frame? Like, open the door, press on the panel from both sides with your hands, and try to slide or lift it within the frame. If you can, one possibility might be to try to glue or tack nail it in a position where there's no gap.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:39
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Tezer posted:The inspectors I've worked with consider bidets 'fastened in place' utilization equipment which, under the codes I've been subject to, means that the bidet can be a maximum of 50% of the circuit rating assuming no other fastened in place utilization equipment on the same circuit. This is why some bidets with lower draws can be installed without a dedicated circuit. does "dedicated circuit" mean it has it's own switch on the breaker box? I don't have a specific one in mind, but here's a toto one https://www.homedepot.com/p/TOTO-WASHLET-C100-Electric-Bidet-Seat-for-Round-Toilet-with-PREMIST-in-Cotton-White-SW2033R-01/309900631 All I can see about electric is 120V 15 amp GFCI required, surge protection recommended
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Apr 28, 2021 04:14
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actionjackson posted:does "dedicated circuit" mean it has it's own switch on the breaker box? Essentially. It is the "new wire from panel to receptacle" option you were talking about. quote:I don't have a specific one in mind, but here's a toto one The Toto C100 is one of the few heated bidet seats that does not require a dedicated circuit. You will need your electrician to confirm that your existing bathroom circuit can be used for this purpose after evaluating what other devices the existing bathroom circuit services. The Toto C100 specification indicates the following power rating: "AC 120 V 60 Hz, 406W". This wattage is below the 50% maximum for attached equipment. However, your bathroom circuit may service other equipment which will needed to be accounted for in the 50% calculation. There also may be other existing wiring issues that will preclude the use of the existing circuit.
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Apr 28, 2021 04:25
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Fyi, an electrician you hire may not want to spend time fishing to create a second box if there's a stud anywhere between the current box and the new one. They'll likely want to open the wall to do it if there's not access elsewhere. There are some hot water bidets that just tie into your sink. If all you're looking for is hot water that might be an option also.
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Apr 28, 2021 05:19
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At 406 watts that bidet is fine hooked up to the existing circuit, that's less then 2 amps. E: it might literally be as easy, or easier to run a dedicated circuit from your CB panel though. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 06:36
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