|
This one is pretty dumb but want to get some feedback here before I buy some gear that wont work out. I'm trying to capture basically this scene but in much higher quality. I'm eyeballing either an FF camera or a MFT camera but need to get the FOV generally correct. Any suggestions? Currently using a C922 and my calculations say around a 30mm on a FF or a 10mm on a MFT would be roughly in the zone, but thats just accounting for crop factor; unsure if that's sufficient. Thanks!
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2021 14:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 17:50 |
|
|
I'd mess around with lighting first. A webcam is going to have absolutely dysmal low light performance, so the more light the better the image should become. I say this assuming a modern webcam has an aperture control. When you feed it more light than it needs it will close the aperture which will increase the edge sharpness of the lens to a certain point. Increased lighting is important for frame rate too which may be automatically controlled. Look at getting broad panel lights or diffusers for single bulb lighting. Using indirect sunlight from a window is a completely free way to drastically improve lighting aesthetics. If you aren't sure what kind of lights you want to buy, try out one of the many camera equipment rental outfits online so you aren't completely invested in a solution that may not work out for you. That said, buy a video specific camera. DSLRs and other still photography focused cameras generally sacrifice video quality or convenience for the sake of keeping cost and complexity down.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2021 15:14
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:I'd mess around with lighting first. A webcam is going to have absolutely dysmal low light performance, so the more light the better the image should become. I say this assuming a modern webcam has an aperture control. When you feed it more light than it needs it will close the aperture which will increase the edge sharpness of the lens to a certain point. Increased lighting is important for frame rate too which may be automatically controlled. Look at getting broad panel lights or diffusers for single bulb lighting. Using indirect sunlight from a window is a completely free way to drastically improve lighting aesthetics. If you aren't sure what kind of lights you want to buy, try out one of the many camera equipment rental outfits online so you aren't completely invested in a solution that may not work out for you. This is actually quite well lit using two of these https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1538167-REG/genaray_spectroled_essential_500iib_bi_color.html Otherwise most of this makes sense; I'm more concerned about focal length/ crop factor though 
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2021 15:28
|
|
|
Walked posted:This one is pretty dumb but want to get some feedback here before I buy some gear that wont work out. Get a wide zoom like 10-22 on APS-C or a 24-70 on FF then you don't have to worry too much about getting the focal length exact. Are you streaming or purely recording or both? Also why not APS-C? jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Feb 22, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2021 15:40
|
|
|
jarlywarly posted:Get a wide zoom like 10-22 on APS-C or a 24-70 on FF then you don't have to worry too much about getting the focal length exact. Both but focused on recording primarily. I’m super open (MFT and FF are the stuff I have some pieces for, but nothing extensive). As long as I can get HDMI clean and continuous power I’m agnostic as to what sensor size (presuming quality image)
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2021 17:13
|
|
|
I know some high tier streamers are using the Sony a7iii Camera with Sigma 16mm f/1.4. I'm curious about using Magic Lantern on my Canon 5D Mkiii, I've seen some amazing footage. But it's more recording than streaming, I don't think the HDMI out is as impressive. I know other people are getting good results with Magic Lantern on the EOS M, might be worth looking at.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2021 17:50
|
|
|
Walked posted:Both but focused on recording primarily. I’m super open (MFT and FF are the stuff I have some pieces for, but nothing extensive). As long as I can get HDMI clean and continuous power I’m agnostic as to what sensor size (presuming quality image) With HDMI out you really need clean HDMI with autofocus, not all cameras have clean HDMI and not all that do have clean HDMI with autofocus. Sony and Panasonic are seemingly the most commonly used cameras but always do research on this feature because it's not at all clear for all cameras which do and which don't.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2021 21:06
|
|
|
Have been using a Fuji X-T2 and X-T3 to do some streaming videos using HDMI output and dummy batteries and they’ve been great. Clean output, good-looking footage, and good autofocus. Also, a question: here’s some random person’s photo on flickr... https://flic.kr/p/2bQ6eVe Viewing on my iPhone, the color balance and exposure appear to change when zooming in. Viewed without zooming, it’s kind of flat and cool and a little darker. Zoom in a little bit, and the colors grow more vivid and warm, and it gets slightly brighter. What’s going on here? Does it do this for anyone else? What could be the cause of it? A preview file that didn’t get updated to reflect the edits made in LR or C1 (or whatever program this guy uses)? Just thought it was weird. Maybe it doesn’t show up like that on other devices though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2021 04:57
|
|
|
tl:dr Lightroom catalog/folder request for help I kind of forgot exactly how finicky Lightroom is about it's catalogs. I had my photos for several large catalogs on an external HD. Photos for each catalog are in a single folder with folder structure underneath that is super important for me ever hoping to find anything. The catalogs were on my internal drive, and were big enough in themselves that it was cramping the internal HD on my laptop. I had to clear space to upgrade my OS, I ended up moving the catalogs (just using the finder) off of my computer. For one of the catalogs, I moved the catalog and the photos both onto a new external SSD. I launched the catalog, and it seemed to find all the photos but it is completely ignoring the folder structure so it's like 40k photos just mashed together. Is there any way force it to use the sub-folders to organize the catalog? Under the Library/Folders pane it doesn't even show the top folder, let alone the sub or sub-sub folders. If I can't fix this where the catalog is currently stationed, I'm assuming I'll have to start by moving the catalogs back to the internal HD where they were originally and then point to the photo folder on the external SSD. But then I'm not sure how to move the actual catalog without encountering this same problem. I really like the idea of having the photos and catalog together on a single fast drive. Another option would be to put the catalogs back on the internal HD but delete all the previews (and stop generating them in the future) so they don't take up so much darn space. Is there any trick to this? To be honest I'm not sure what the previews are actually doing for me so maybe this is a better solution. if it matters, this is Lightroom Classic, with catalogs made under osx 10.13 and with the upgrade I'm on 11.2
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2021 04:35
|
|
|
At the risk of asking the insultingly obvious: you are looking at the folder subsection of the left pane and not the catalog subsection which is above it (where it has the option for All photo, previous import, etc)?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2021 14:28
|
|
|
BetterLekNextTime posted:tl:dr Lightroom catalog/folder request for help Does right-clicking the folder and hitting "Show parent folder" do anything?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
I'm just an idiot, fixed it now. I overlooked the old drive because it was grayed out but I was able to easy peasy tell it to find the photos in the new location.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2021 01:36
|
|
|
Is there a rule of thumb for choosing shutter speed? I'm having trouble experimentally figuring out where a good compromise is between ISO and shutter speed (for bird photograph in the daytime, if you're interested) on my k50. My autistic/engineering brain wants a chart like "If your subject is moving X mph it will be blurry at Y speed" but that doesn't exist and it probably wouldn't be very helpful anyway. Is there a speed at which there are diminishing returns for eliminating motion blur? I think my main problem is I can't really tell if details in my photos are blurred from motion so I don't know if I can control it or not.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 19:37
|
|
|
This says double your focal length as a baseline for wildlife and up to 4000 for fast birds.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 19:52
|
|
|
The general rule is to keep shutter speed at least the reciprocal of focal length (so 400mm = 1/400s or faster). As for birds, taken from page 91 of 'The Handbook of Bird Photography', Markus Varesvuo suggests the following guidelines: Target Min. Shutter Speed Circling eagle 1/640s Flying goose 1/1000s Fighting Black grouse 1/1600s Flying swift 1/2000s Flying small bird 1/3200s
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 19:54
|
|
|
Corla Plankun posted:Is there a rule of thumb for choosing shutter speed? Post some of your pictures and your gear and setting used adn we can take a look, there are rule of thumb but they don't apply with all gear. The most common one is to eliminate handheld camera shake shoot at 1/(FF equivalent focal length) But with a good IS lens or IBIS you can often shoot way lower I will shoot as low as 1/250 on my 896mm FF equivalent birding setup if the light is bad. If the subject is moving then you do need a higher shutter speed, but I usually don't go over 1/2500, this flying owl is at 1/1600  Barn Owl Flight by Aves Lux, on FlickrThis panned magpie is at 1/500 with a pan  Magpie Straight Line Flight by Aves Lux, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 20:00
|
|
|
Corla Plankun posted:Is there a rule of thumb for choosing shutter speed? Now that all the serious answers have been given, I say just slap a strobe in there and never leave sync speed ever again. 1/160 for lyfe.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 20:43
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Now that all the serious answers have been given, I say just slap a strobe in there and never leave sync speed ever again. 1/160 for lyfe. Post your snoot
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 01:41
|
|
|
Corla Plankun posted:Is there a rule of thumb for choosing shutter speed? It depends. Generally, for most bird photography I shoot wide open and like to stay at 1/2000 or higher if at all possible, especially for smaller birds. Small passerines move very quickly, even perched, and your photos can have motion blur caused by them twitching or moving their heads. Larger birds move more slowly so you can get away with slower shutter speeds. Like thrush/crow sized birds you could probably be safe at 1/1000 down to 1/500 if they aren't too active. Herons sit super still a lot of the time and you could get away with 1/100 or even less sometimes, assuming you're on a tripod. For perched owls you can even do long, multi-second exposure shots, but that's pretty niche. Action shots and birds in flight you'd want to increase shutter speed, of course. I usually stop down a bit too, since I've had issues with my AF being just slightly behind the shutter, leading to soft shots despite being plenty fast. Then there's a whole thing where some people prefer a completely frozen subject and other people like just enough movement to blur the wingtips but that's getting a bit advanced. I think its mostly a matter of practice and getting an idea of what works in the field. I would say that shutter speed takes priority over ISO, though, since most people won't notice noise in a picture but a blurry shot isn't really useable. I shot sports for a couple of years and that really knocked any fear of bumping up the ISO right out of me. I'd much rather have a sharp, noisy shot than a blurry, noise-free shot. And if its getting too dark to get a decent shutter speed at a non-destructive ISO, then it's ok to put the camera away and just watch the birds, too!
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 02:10
|
|
|
Thank y'all so much! It rained today so I didn't get a chance to test out this information, but it seems like I might have been so far in the "Minimize ISO" camp that the difference (e.g. 1/100 to 1/200) wasn't noticeable enough for me to realize that I should be going even faster. Hopefully I'll get a chance to experiment this weekend with much faster shots.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 03:42
|
|
|
I'm glad this discussion came up, too. I had it in mind yesterday when I happened across a fox and a few birds near the backcountry roads I was driving. Haven't edited the photos yet, maybe I actually go some decent shots. But I feel good about the blur/noise tradeoff, at least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 03:12
|
|
|
This is not a good photo for a variety of reasons but I am extremely hyped about the definition in the wings. Thanks again for the advice! I never would have raised my ISO above 200 if I hadn't gotten that advice from y'all. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 15:27
|
|
|
Forgive me if there's a better thread for this but are there any Pacific NW goons here? I live near Seattle but am just about the only Washingtonian who has never been to Portland. I will be in Portland on Wednesday next week, and was wondering what might be some good photo spots? I like landscapes and urban landscapes, as well as photos of people. As for time of day, I get into town around 10:00, am busy for lunch, then have free time from about 1:00 to 5:00. I have a car to get around, but am also dragging my wife everywhere with me so I can't hit too many different places because I'm sure there will be time spent shopping sales-tax-free as well as an obligatory trip to Powell's Books. Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2021 05:07
|
|
|
If you know anyone in Cairo, that giant Chinese rocket is supposed to break up within visual range of the pyramids, should look like some kind of fireball meteorite falling over the pyramids as viewed from the south of the pyramids, looking due north, about 2am UTC Saturday night/Sunday morning. Exactly where it's gonna land, nobody knows, but, well, it would be a hell of a photo
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 02:35
|
|
|
A bright meteor you can vaguely predict is a kind of holy grail.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
LiterallyATomato posted:Forgive me if there's a better thread for this but are there any Pacific NW goons here? Easiest thing to add into that plan is Waterfront Park, to get the river and bridges and such in there. Downtown from Powell’s to the river is a colorful and good spot to catch street photos as well. If you have enough time to get up to the Washington Park Rose Garden it’s also a great spot to get wider landscape shots of the city from up high.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 05:21
|
|
|
I guess it went down near the Maldives, ~300 miles SW of the southern tip of india It was definitely blinking (tumbling) and visible to the naked eye at the pyramids by then, someone has a video on twitter of it from Jordan (north of Israel)
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 06:08
|
|
|
LiterallyATomato posted:Forgive me if there's a better thread for this but are there any Pacific NW goons here? Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden might be up your alley, it's not very well known and very pretty - around this time of year it should be all in bloom, too. A bit out of the way from Portland proper, though. e: The Grotto might be good too, but note that there are masses around noon cus there's a functioning catholic shrine there. CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 19:27 on May 9, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 19:24
|
|
|
The rhodo garden is great as mentioned above and the riverfront park nearby there (by the amusement park and Ross island) is quite nice. I'd also check out Mount Tabor for some nice views
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2021 22:58
|
|
|
alternatively get weird and go down to nw front ave near the marsec facilities after dark and hope homeland security doesn't give you poo poo
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2021 07:12
|
|
|
I've always struggled to develop a "style" in my photography. Which I'm coming to realize I'm fine with. My main Instagram is all over the place. However, I've recently created a new account and want to be very mindful of style with this one and I'm exploring that style now. I'm thinking it's roughly black and white portraits with either 1x1 or 4x5 cropping. For those with a style, what do you do when you've got great photos that are wildly different from your style? I have a photo that only works 4x6 with lots of color.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2021 02:58
|
|
|
Options are: a) Don't give a gently caress,  b) Stash it in a "experimental" section on your portfolio site. c) Put it on imgur as 'hidden' and share the image with that url. d) Upload to flickr then reset the date to some point in the distant past. e) Maintain multiple social media accounts.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2021 03:17
|
|
|
a style is something you develop for yourself over time, not how you post images to a feed. i think it'd be good to start by separating those ideas - figuring out what you can post to a feed that looks cohesive while also looking for a consistent way of seeing yourself
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2021 03:33
|
|
|
I have learned to sit on my photos instead of immediately posting them. This allows me to reflect on my themes and catalogue. When I have enough material in a single hopper I'll start posting things out to IG. My backlog is ranges out to about 6 months at the moment but I know other posters here have years of catalogue. That helps you appear cohesive even though your art and expression may range on the day to day.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2021 03:42
|
|
|
Megabound posted:I have learned to sit on my photos instead of immediately posting them. This allows me to reflect on my themes and catalogue. When I have enough material in a single hopper I'll start posting things out to IG. My backlog is ranges out to about 6 months at the moment but I know other posters here have years of catalogue. That helps you appear cohesive even though your art and expression may range on the day to day. The photos I'm sharing now are about 6 years back, coincidentally.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2021 04:24
|
|
|
xzzy posted:A bright meteor you can vaguely predict is a kind of holy grail. For those near California, Wednesday morning around 4:15, there's gonna be a lunar eclipse if you look southwest. It's ~230 degrees so almost perfectly SW, about 5 more degrees west than south This isn't a SOLAR eclipse, what it means is that the moon is going to be in the Earth's shadow, so I'll go from white, to tan, and later to blood red. Of significance, with the color gradient, the moon actually looks like a 3D object, rather than a flat disc to the naked eye The other thing about lunar eclipses is that they happen near the horizon, so it's only about 15° above the horizon at the reddest point, you'll want to be on a bluff overlooking the ocean, with no clouds/marine layer fog 15° is, if you "throw metal horns" with your hand  the distance from your pinky to your index, at arms length with your pinky on the horizon is about 15°, and your index finger is about where the moon will be. "Hang loose" hand signal is about 25° if you're curiousTL;DR lunar photography sucks, stay in bed  https://www.timeanddate.com/eclipse/in/usa/los-angeles Hadlock fucked around with this message at 07:10 on May 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 07:07
|
|
|
Lunar eclipses are still pretty cool. The one we had a couple years ago I tried to get a sequence with a fixed exposure that would show off the moon dimming as it reached maximum. But I misjudged the route and had to pan the camera, making an impossible to stitch mess as I had set up a building for my foreground and was shooting pretty wide. Next time. 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 12:25
|
|
|
Quick question about a glitch I was having the other day, to ensure it’s not anything serious. My cousin asked me to do their kids graduation photos as a graduation present and, while I was shooting, my x-t3 would occasionally just lock up for a moment with an Orange-red status light by the card slot door, staying like that even if I tried turning it off until I popped the grip off at which point it resumed normal function. The only thing I can think of is that one of the batteries in the grip had zeroed out around the time it started doing this. Has anyone else run into this particular issue, and if you resolved it what was it in the end? E: suppose I should also note that I’m using UHS-3 cards and I wasn’t exactly bursting a million shots, so I would be highly surprised if it was a write buffer issue or something Babysitter Super Sleuth fucked around with this message at 18:28 on May 28, 2021 |
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 17:47
|
|
|
Was it hot out? Overheating issue maybe?
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 18:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 17:50 |
|
|
If I was you I'd try to recreate it on another memory card, unless you got the memory card from a real brick and mortar store and are certain it could not possibly be a forgery. If it came from a noname company on Amazon it could be a shittier card than you think.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 23:33
|
|