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FogHelmut posted:Is 8 month old gas still usable? I have about 2 gallons. Is it going to wreck my car if I mix it in with a full fresh tank? It should be fine. Especially if you mix it with a full tank.
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May 13, 2021 21:44
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FogHelmut posted:Is 8 month old gas still usable? I have about 2 gallons. Is it going to wreck my car if I mix it in with a full fresh tank? have you been storing it in a garbage bag ?
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May 13, 2021 21:45
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FogHelmut posted:Is 8 month old gas still usable? I have about 2 gallons. Is it going to wreck my car if I mix it in with a full fresh tank? Totally fine with a car made in the last ~30 years.
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May 13, 2021 21:48
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nevermind. that’s good enough. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 00:31 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 00:01
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Danhenge posted:Based on the sheer amount of coax throughout the house doing total nonsense, I'd say somebody let the Dish Network techs do whatever they liked without any oversight. There at least two but maybe more runs of coax that have been cut but are still tacked to floor joists in the basement. The single run of coax that is connected to Comcast service is at least four different runs that have all been joined with male-to-male connectors. I got a lot of satisfaction removing 100 years of abandoned wiring from my house when I moved in. Coax, at least two generations of phone wire, abandoned security systems, knob and tube. Very satisfying to rip all that crap out. Also called the state telcom ombudsman to make Verizon come and remove their copper run from the pole to my house. Highly recommend that route if you ever need help with a utility issue more complicated than upgrading your HBO package.
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May 14, 2021 00:20
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I want to replace our crappy old storm door; when measuring the existing door, do I include the hinge/latch rails, or just the door itself?
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May 14, 2021 00:40
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mcgreenvegtables posted:I got a lot of satisfaction removing 100 years of abandoned wiring from my house when I moved in. Coax, at least two generations of phone wire, abandoned security systems, knob and tube. Very satisfying to rip all that crap out. i'm slowly working on this. Miles of coax in the basement, and lots of phone lines stretched around. I need to also get rid of the insane mess of wires that were powering an outside lamp post. It's all disconnected so the patio guy doesn't die when he removes it all. Basement lights -> Junction box 1 -> Junction box 2 Leg1 light switch in room -> out to light -> back to light switch -> Back to junction box 1 Basement lights -> Junction box 1 -> Junction box 2 Leg2 out to always on light outlet
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May 14, 2021 13:11
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Wtf happened to my floor fan after sitting under my bed for 7 months? The cable has turned half-pink on one side and it doesn't work anymore. Just buzzing a little.   Doesn't show up well on photo, but half the cable across its whole length is pink. It was completely normal when I put it in storage. E: I started disassembling it and tested it without the blade and it works. I guess it didn't have enough juice to kickstart itself? Huh Sininu fucked around with this message at 17:13 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 17:04
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The cable turning colors is probably just a cheap cord oxidizing, and unrelated to the not working, sounds like something's wrong with the motor.
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May 14, 2021 17:46
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I have a hole in a plaster wall that looks like this:  It came from a curtain rod bracket that that fell off. It was only screwed in. I’d like to repair it and put the bracket right back in the same place, but with a toggle bolt (or something) so it’s stronger. How should I do this? Can I just follow the directions on a Plaster of Paris box and fill it in? Will that be strong enough?
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May 14, 2021 19:29
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mcgreenvegtables posted:I got a lot of satisfaction removing 100 years of abandoned wiring from my house when I moved in. Coax, at least two generations of phone wire, abandoned security systems, knob and tube. Very satisfying to rip all that crap out. My lovely old verizon drop "fell off the house" shortly before my siding got done, and then I just had the next guy I saw on the pole cut down the other (disconnected) end
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May 14, 2021 22:17
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hey, goons, I've got a novice sorta problem I'm hoping you guys can answer. I've got a piece of wood that I need to cut out that's basically a square, with a curve extending out one side, kind of in this shape: []D The issue is, while I know I can hand saw the straight sides so they're square with respect to the face and back of the piece, I'm not so sure when it comes to the curved portion. For tools, I basically have a couple coarse cut hand saws, a coping saw, and an orbital palm sander. My initial test cut with the coping saw went.... poorly. I need more practice, but the cut was crooked, and I kinda meandered around the curve. I figured I'd just sand down to the mark and all would be well, except that when I did that, I ended up rounding off the edges too much and making the cut even wonkier. Anyone got any tips on how to make this work better? I don't have the money to invest in a power tool that'll make the cut easier, so I have to stick with what I've got, or a verycheap alternative.
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May 15, 2021 03:59
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neogeo0823 posted:hey, goons, I've got a novice sorta problem I'm hoping you guys can answer. I've got a piece of wood that I need to cut out that's basically a square, with a curve extending out one side, kind of in this shape: []D The issue is, while I know I can hand saw the straight sides so they're square with respect to the face and back of the piece, I'm not so sure when it comes to the curved portion. For tools, I basically have a couple coarse cut hand saws, a coping saw, and an orbital palm sander. My initial test cut with the coping saw went.... poorly. I need more practice, but the cut was crooked, and I kinda meandered around the curve. I figured I'd just sand down to the mark and all would be well, except that when I did that, I ended up rounding off the edges too much and making the cut even wonkier. Anyone got any tips on how to make this work better? I don't have the money to invest in a power tool that'll make the cut easier, so I have to stick with what I've got, or a verycheap alternative. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Jig-Amp-BDEJS300C/dp/B00OJ72L84/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=jigsaw&qid=1621048170&sr=8-5
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May 15, 2021 04:09
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I'm not exactly sure what you are cutting out, but assuming you want a square part and a curve part like an arch. If you have a drill and a lot of time, drill lots of pilot holes in the curved portion and connect each hole to each other using a handsaw.
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May 15, 2021 05:06
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For the sanding I'd clamp it down to something sturdy so it doesn't move, and then use a sanding block to sand away the excess. If you're careful to keep the sanding block flat against the edge of the piece and use even pressure, you should be able to avoid rounding down the edges. If you don't have a sanding block you can just wrap a bit of sandpaper around a hand-sized flat piece of scrap 2x4 and sand with that. Go slow and be sure you're got the block flat when you're sanding, because rocking it side to side will absolutely ruin your sharp corners.
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May 15, 2021 05:50
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Dawncloack posted:Hi, my name is Dawncloack and Im a disaster Alcohol, isopropyl then denatured. Rub it down with either and see if that does it.
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May 15, 2021 06:57
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I know literally nothing about pressure treated lumber. Code decrees that I must use pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate on my basement walls. Ok, makes sense. I was in the Lowe's earlier today buying something else and decided to wander over to the lumber for sticker shock purposes. I noticed that the tags for the pressure treated 2x4s said "not for ground contact" on them. All of the stuff that didn't have such tag was the 6x6s and such. Do I need to hunt down ground contact stuff or is pressure treated pressure treated for my purposes?
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May 18, 2021 02:03
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Ask. Generally 'not for ground contact' means not treated but something that omits that is not assumed to be treated. General PT lumber will look 'darker' then PT lumber but that's not 100%.. just ask. Also yeah lol at doing anything with lumber. I was going to build some 2x4 and OSB shelving; not this year it'll cost me a lot more than the 200 it did last year.
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May 18, 2021 02:20
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Is your mudsill going to actually be in contact with soil? That's what it means by ground contact. You can also go to your local lumber yard and get pt lumber with more chemical pumped in.
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May 18, 2021 02:27
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No, it is for the interior walls of my basement. Going onto the cement floor.
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May 18, 2021 02:32
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If you put this under your bottom plate, do you still need the pressure treated board? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...-202080947-_-N& I did both in my basement but I didn’t love bringing the PT chemicals into a living space.
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May 18, 2021 02:38
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Local requirements specify that finished basements must use a single pressure treated bottom plate, but that is literally all it says. Doesn't qualify if you use a sill gasket or not.
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May 18, 2021 16:07
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I don't think that a gasket is sufficient to avoid using PT lumber. Gaskets are more for preventing drafts, by my understanding, and while they can prevent some moisture penetration, that's not their primary purpose. That said, this is all my supposition, I don't actually know the code.
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May 18, 2021 16:13
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eddiewalker posted:If you put this under your bottom plate, do you still need the pressure treated board? Every living space you've been in ever has a PT sill plate. After that is in place you will install drywall, paint it, trim it, then potentially caulk or something it to seal the wall up. If it causes cancer we're all goners. Just peel off the California Prop 65 warning then it can't cause cancer.
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May 18, 2021 16:47
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H110Hawk posted:Every living space you've been in ever has a PT sill plate. After that is in place you will install drywall, paint it, trim it, then potentially caulk or something it to seal the wall up. If it causes cancer we're all goners. Just peel off the California Prop 65 warning then it can't cause cancer. Everything has a Prop65 warning on it. Don't burn the PT wood, or eat it and you'll be fine.
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May 18, 2021 17:57
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Modern PT wood is relatively harmless if you're touching it or in the same room with it. They got rid of the arsenic in 2004. IIRC you can still buy the arsenic kind, but you have to go out of your way to do it. The current kind is just loaded up with copper.
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May 18, 2021 18:03
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I'm looking for something like a DIN rail or other connector that I could install the rail portion permanently on my wall and the connector permanently to like a frame or surround sound speaker or anything else I want to mount to the wall and could quickly and securely swap whatever's on the wall. I'm basically picturing like how those 3M command hooks sometimes have a 2 piece design:  where the hook snaps onto the part that's taped to the wall, but instead the "hook" would be affixed permanently to an item snap onto something screwed into the wall permanently. I don't know any of the terminology to google whether something like this exists though without getting a ton of results that are definitely not it
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May 18, 2021 18:37
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I'm not really familiar with the terms you're using, but maybe do you want a French cleat?
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May 18, 2021 18:44
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I've seen people do french cleat rails for a reconfigurable shelf system. Might be adaptable to your needs maybe.
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May 18, 2021 18:44
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eddiewalker posted:If you put this under your bottom plate, do you still need the pressure treated board? Sash! posted:Local requirements specify that finished basements must use a single pressure treated bottom plate, but that is literally all it says. Doesn't qualify if you use a sill gasket or not. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't think that a gasket is sufficient to avoid using PT lumber. Gaskets are more for preventing drafts, by my understanding, and while they can prevent some moisture penetration, that's not their primary purpose. The 2015 IRC covers this in section R317 which covers 'protection of wood and wood-based products against decay'. Generally, pressure/preservative treated wood is required when exposure to moisture is likely. In the case of a wall plate in contact with a basement slab, pressure/preservative treated wood is only required if an impervious moisture barrier is not used between the plate and the slab. Using pressure/preservative treated plates is easy and avoids a conversation with the inspector, so that's what a lot of builders do. In the case of 'sill seal' materials (such as the home depot link) - i personally don't think that's an impervious moisture barrier. The IRC unfortunately doesn't define impervious moisture barrier, but I believe it should be a class one vapor retarder and sill seal depending on what you look at might be a class one or it might be a class two. However, in real world applications with anchor bolts sticking through it I just don't think it will really work as a class one because it doesn't self-seal around penetrations. That said, your inspector might pass it. If you want to avoid pressure/preservative treated plates I would use an EPDM gasket, but they aren't something you will find at home depot: http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html
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May 18, 2021 18:58
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These work really well for what you're trying to do. E: hangin' stuff, not imperviously barriering moisture. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 19:01 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 18:59
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I think I found the terminology I was looking for, was just a case of no such thing being on Amazon so it took a little more fiddling with search terms to get a hit. https://www.mcmaster.com/din-rail-mount-clips/  French cleat looks promising too, but I'm less interested in installing a full on rail across the length of a wall than I am in like a 2-4" section for slide on/slide off mounting.
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May 18, 2021 19:04
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Sash! posted:I know literally nothing about pressure treated lumber. I have no idea if your application counts as ground contact or not though. Usually at real lumberyard will have a bigger selection of GC rated PT lumber than a big box.
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May 18, 2021 19:09
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Plank Walker posted:I think I found the terminology I was looking for, was just a case of no such thing being on Amazon so it took a little more fiddling with search terms to get a hit. Reminder that you need access to the bottom of that clip to remove stuff from the DIN rail. So anything large will be a no-go. I've had no end of trouble with DIN-mount devices that hide the release way the gently caress behind stuff. Anything else will be a french cleat style thing where it's hanging, but not really "secured." Have you looked in to unistrut? https://www.mcmaster.com/strut-channel/ That might be a little more suited to what you're looking for. DIN rail is usually for smaller stuff inside electrical enclosures, and unistrut is pretty widely used to mount/hang stuff outside enclosures so you might be able to find an adapter that will work for what you're doing. Maybe also look in to 80/20 (extruded aluminum), but that's made more for building things rather than hanging things: https://www.mcmaster.com/structural-framing/framing-type~t-slot-1/
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May 18, 2021 19:31
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Plank Walker posted:I think I found the terminology I was looking for, was just a case of no such thing being on Amazon so it took a little more fiddling with search terms to get a hit. You can cut the French cleat stuff into 2-4" sections.
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May 18, 2021 19:53
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Omne posted:The threshold transition strip from our LVP to our pool door fell off. I was able to pull up the headless nails. Should I: Reposting this, as I still haven't gotten around to fixing it yet
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May 18, 2021 20:29
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Hey, goons, if I have two pieces of material that I want to join together using pop rivets, but I still want those pieces to be able to move independently around that rivet point, what's the best way to do that? Googling around told me to put a piece of paper in between the parts, but when I did a test rivet to see how that would work, I couldn't get the paper out from between the parts, so it's like I didn't even use the stuff. Anyone got any ideas or advice?
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May 18, 2021 23:09
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neogeo0823 posted:Hey, goons, if I have two pieces of material that I want to join together using pop rivets, but I still want those pieces to be able to move independently around that rivet point, what's the best way to do that? Googling around told me to put a piece of paper in between the parts, but when I did a test rivet to see how that would work, I couldn't get the paper out from between the parts, so it's like I didn't even use the stuff. Anyone got any ideas or advice? Several pieces of paper?
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May 18, 2021 23:29
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Several pieces of paper? I mean, ok, but how do I get the paper out? I'm kind of wondering if I should just... squeeze less with the rivet tool and then cut off the post instead of popping it off. The way I've got it set up now is there's 2 pieces of the "base" material as outer supports, then washers inside, then the middle is another piece of material, and that's what I want to pivot. When I go to do use the tool, I find I have to squeeze the tool fully, reseat the post, and then about mid-way through the 2nd squeeze is when the post pops. Maybe I could just do like, 3/4ths of a squeeze and then call it there if the pieces are able to move? EDIT: Hmm.... maybe some U-shaped shims of duct tape might allow me to pull them out after riveting?
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May 18, 2021 23:49
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Does it have to be riveted? Seems like an ideal.application for a bushing/spacer, bolt, and a nylock nut.
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May 18, 2021 23:54
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