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Calidus posted:It looks like a really fat router table Yes that is exactly what a shaper is as far as I know
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May 28, 2021 03:19
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Meow Meow Meow posted:That is a nice looking machine. Someone had recommended that in some ancient woodweb thread and I ordered it but haven’t had a chance to dig into it yet. I got a few other shaper books that have definitely helped. Squibbles posted:Since shapers are so scary/dangerous isn't there a fair number of people that use auto feed mechanisms for them now? So you don't have to get your hands anywhere near that enormous cutting head... And also for large scale production work I guess. Calidus posted:It looks like a really fat router table Mr. Mambold posted:*does the good lad nod*
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May 28, 2021 03:32
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A friend wanted me to finish this chunk of butcher block for him to use for a desk, so I sanded it down and did a few coats of tung oil, but even after drying it’s always coming out kind of blotchy? Am I just not cleaning off the excess well enough or do I need more coats or am I not rubbing it in enough or do I need to do some sort of final coat or ??? E: maybe more illustrative photo 
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May 28, 2021 05:21
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It’s time I get a bench sander of some sort. I’m leaning towards an oscillating belt sander, but am curious as to what you guys would recommend in the multi purpose bench top sanding arena.
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May 28, 2021 16:34
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Sockser posted:A friend wanted me to finish this chunk of butcher block for him to use for a desk, so I sanded it down and did a few coats of tung oil, but even after drying it’s always coming out kind of blotchy? Parts of the wood with the grain taking a bend and hitting the surface on end or at an angle don't absorb or hold oil the same as regular grain. Sometimes you even need a third coat of poly/varnish to eliminate those areas showing
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May 28, 2021 16:40
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more falafel please posted:I'm thinking about getting an air filtration system (this Wen one or something similar) but my space is pretty constrained. My shop is in my basement, the ceiling is only about 7' tall, and I'm 6'1", so I'll need to put it in an area that I don't have to walk around regularly. I know they're supposed to go in the center of a space, so I guess I could put it above my table saw. I have this exact one mounted to the ceiling in my basement. I'm 5'6" and my head glances the bottom of it when I walk under it. It's kind of out of the way so I don't need to worry about it much. My wife is shorter than me and any time I have friends down there I make sure to mention it. Low ceiling basements... meh.... It works really well from a general aspect I think. If I do a cut without good dust collection like a circular saw on a long rip cut I can see the particles in the air and they are clear within a minute or so. There are some home brew particulate meters online that people have built that I thought about doing. Regardless, I always wear a P100 during and after.
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May 28, 2021 16:51
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Sockser posted:A friend wanted me to finish this chunk of butcher block for him to use for a desk, so I sanded it down and did a few coats of tung oil, but even after drying it’s always coming out kind of blotchy? Butcher block walnut? Well, I nevah. Blistex posted:Parts of the wood with the grain taking a bend and hitting the surface on end or at an angle don't absorb or hold oil the same as regular grain. Sometimes you even need a third coat of poly/varnish to eliminate those areas showing This. Also, you're probably removing/sanding with too much vigah. Oil doesn't really penetrate all that much, esp hardwood.
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May 28, 2021 17:08
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Mr. Mambold posted:Butcher block walnut? Well, I nevah. Yeah fuckin beats me, $350 for an 8'x2' chunk at Home Depot. Not how I would have done it, but I'm not the client. Billed as "european walnut" which is not something I'm familiar with
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May 28, 2021 18:00
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Sockser posted:Yeah fuckin beats me, $350 for an 8'x2' chunk at Home Depot. Not how I would have done it, but I'm not the client. That might be a euphemism for "lots of sapwood too" since the grain looks exactly like american black walnut to me....
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May 28, 2021 18:27
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Mr. Mambold posted:That might be a euphemism for "lots of sapwood too" since the grain looks exactly like american black walnut to me.... This was exactly my thought I did inherit the off cut from this giant slab so now my “I need a new cutting board” checklist item has been crossed off  
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May 28, 2021 18:52
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Sockser posted:A friend wanted me to finish this chunk of butcher block for him to use for a desk, so I sanded it down and did a few coats of tung oil, but even after drying it’s always coming out kind of blotchy? Are you using actual tung oil or does the packaging say 'tung oil finish' or something similar? Real tung oil is pretty different from the products sold with similar names. That industry is horrible with deceptive naming.
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May 28, 2021 19:12
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I havent been around this thread in a while so apologies if this is an every page question.. I'm replacing some of an old deck/stairs made with doug fir and painted. I, like everyone else, like to pick through the poo poo boards to find the decent stuff. That seems not to be an option now as no store or lumber yard seem to have doug fir boards in stock. What's the best way to pick up some decent 2x6x12 doug fir boards currently? Wait 3 days on an online order and cross my fingers? Dunn lumber is twice the cost of HD/lowes, rumors are that HD has more lumber move than lowes so you'll get better stuff but I'm pretty sure that is more location specific than store store brand. Seattle area if that matters and I don't want to use hem fir Also what's a detail you notice on a stair or deck that you look for to show good work besides screw patterns  any simple design choices that really make it pop or tie it all in?
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May 28, 2021 19:24
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Are you using actual tung oil or does the packaging say 'tung oil finish' or something similar? Real tung oil is pretty different from the products sold with similar names. I was using the minwax stuff they used to sell at home depot, which is some sort of tung oil blend, and then ran out and switched to.... whatever they sell at home depot now in lieu of minwax One more coat seems to have even out the patches, will check back on it in a few hours when it's cured up a bit
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May 28, 2021 20:19
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I've got access to a cnc router again, which I am very stoked about. Has anyone done much with cutting dimensioned hardwood lumber on a cnc router? I've done a fair bit of cutting in BB ply, which is generally easy and predictable. I have a bunch of hardwood lumber I wanna cycle out of my What kinda issues should I watch out for? Less consistency w/r/t flatness & thickness is an obvious one. Would grain direction & knots be a pitfall? Is a bed leveling bit likely to produce a decently level surface without too much tearout on a board's face? E: to clarify, the scale I'm thinking is 4/4 or 5/4 stock, maybe 7"- 12" wide, with workpieces 2' - 4' long. Woods probably hickory, maple, oak & cherry HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 20:38 on May 28, 2021 |
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May 28, 2021 20:24
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Sockser posted:Yeah fuckin beats me, $350 for an 8'x2' chunk at Home Depot. Not how I would have done it, but I'm not the client. European walnut is a real thing. It's the tree (Juglans regia) regular walnuts come from. The wood usually sold in the US as walnut is American black walnut, Juglans nigra. Black walnuts aren't really grown for nuts that much, and I would bet your european walnut butcher block is made from old orchard trees. They become less productive after X years and they cut them down and start over. They're probably not really big, old, straight trees, which explain why there is so much sapwood and it's in such short lengths. Good nut trees have a lot of branches and a very short trunk-good lumber trees have a big straight trunk and few branches. European walnut is usually a good bit lighter and warmer than black walnut, and IMO is the prettier wood. Black walnut can go kind of black and purply, especially under oil, where European walnut is much more amber, esp. under shellac. From your pictures, I really couldn't say for sure if that is black or European walnut. Some of it sure looks like black walnut, some of it looks more like European, and it may well be mixed. As far as your finishing problem, you just need more coats, but be aware an oil finish will never has as consistent a sheen as a film for the reasons others have listen. Scuff sand with 320 between coats, and you can even apply the oil with 320 paper to fill the grain a little bit. If it's 'tung oil finish' it's really a long oil varnish and the sheen probably will even out with more coats, if it's real tung oil it won't ever really build a film.
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May 28, 2021 20:29
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Update: HD discontinuing doug fir, sounds like my option is pay a crazy premium on it or prime and paint hem fir which is the way I'm going
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May 28, 2021 20:35
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European (though also called French or English walnut, depending on where it came from) walnut is certainly a thing, juglans regia, and a close cousin of American/black walnut, juglans nigra. In the few places that carry it, it's pretty much the single most expensive European hardwood by some distance, and only beaten by some of the tropical species that you pretty much can't get anymore because of trade restrictions or bans, like teak or genuine rosewood. Looks very nice, bit more mellow and golden/dark honey brown than American walnut, from the pieces I've seen, and historically only used for the highest end furniture I believe. Having said that, given that they're already misusing the term butcher block, I would not be surprised if it's actually black walnut scraps/lots of sapwood. Edit: I should type faster, pretty much what Schitzel said. Also, the European walnut I've seen has always been just air dried, not kilned, which may account for some of the aesthetic qualities. Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 28, 2021 |
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May 28, 2021 20:37
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Update: HD discontinuing doug fir, sounds like my option is pay a crazy premium on it or prime and paint hem fir which is the way I'm going This guys truck was full of wood at Panera and while I was picking up my lunch I thought.. that could be my wood.
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May 28, 2021 20:37
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Update: HD discontinuing doug fir, sounds like my option is pay a crazy premium on it or prime and paint hem fir which is the way I'm going
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May 28, 2021 20:38
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Update: HD discontinuing doug fir, sounds like my option is pay a crazy premium on it or prime and paint hem fir which is the way I'm going Your local HD or all of them? All the framing lumber at my HD is Doug fir, I'm sure there's other stuff they can get (SYP etc) but it seems weird that they'd discontinue it completely.
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May 28, 2021 20:44
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Black walnuts are tastier than English, FYI.
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May 28, 2021 20:45
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Just Winging It posted:Also, the European walnut I've seen has always been just air dried, not kilned, which may account for some of the aesthetic qualities.
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May 28, 2021 21:15
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I havent been around this thread in a while so apologies if this is an every page question.. Dunn lumber is just expensive. There's a lumber place on Market St in Ballard that has better prices called Limback Lumber. It's still going to have the covid and Seattle markup, but they've been good for what I've needed.
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May 28, 2021 21:26
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I was talking about the boards you can buy today, not antiques, but I readily believe you, antique sellers really don't like it when you get all close and personal with a piece to see that kind of thing, so I can't speak from experience on that myself, only to the aesthetic qualities, which when French polished, are very nice indeed.
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May 28, 2021 21:29
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Just Winging It posted:I was talking about the boards you can buy today, not antiques, but I readily believe you, antique sellers really don't like it when you get all close and personal with a piece to see that kind of thing, so I can't speak from experience on that myself, only to the aesthetic qualities, which when French polished, are very nice indeed. I've had pretty decent luck putting an amberish dye on black walnut to get it closer to that light french walnut look. One of my favorite things I've made ever was figured french walnut veneer with no dye and just a little tinted wax over the lacquer and it had the prettiest color.
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May 28, 2021 22:14
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Jhet posted:Dunn lumber is just expensive. There's a lumber place on Market St in Ballard that has better prices called Limback Lumber. It's still going to have the covid and Seattle markup, but they've been good for what I've needed. Limback’s is good, crosscut in sodo is my go-to for hardwood but they have a solid plywood selection too. Alki lumber in West Seattle is also decent, but lmao at going there with the bridge out if you don’t live in West Seattle already.
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May 28, 2021 23:59
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Just Winging It posted:the European walnut I've seen has always been just air dried, not kilned, which may account for some of the aesthetic qualities. I didn't realize there was a difference? Idk if I've ever seen European walnut so I wouldn't know to compare the grain pattern, but what Sockser posted was totally the typical grain for black walnut. Also, TIL- there is a California walnut sub species, juglans hindsii...oh wait, it's claro. I've seen that. edit Harry Potter on Ice posted:I havent been around this thread in a while so apologies if this is an every page question.. Roundover treads and stringers? Idk.....
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May 29, 2021 00:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A friend of mine who is an antique dealer used to joke that 'if it doesn't have woodworm, it's not really french!' I guess the warmer (drier?) climate in southern france (and italy too) is more conducive to them? I don't see wormholes nearly as often in English stuff, but french and italian stuff always seems to be eaten up with them. I think the south of france is pretty humid so that would probably be conducive to bugs if your wood doesn't fully air dry? A quick google shows Nice averaging 70-80% humidity year-round
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May 29, 2021 00:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I sure wouldn't trust primed/painted hemlock outside for very long here but maybe it'll be fine? Can you get KDAT pine or something? Might cost a little more and you'd have to get it from a real lumberyard and not HD/Lowes, but it should last a lot longer. The guy I'm doing it for said no man in his family has lived past a certain age and he only has 8 years left so whatever the client wants?!?! more falafel please posted:Your local HD or all of them? All the framing lumber at my HD is Doug fir, I'm sure there's other stuff they can get (SYP etc) but it seems weird that they'd discontinue it completely. They're just selling what the mills are giving them and apparently that isnt DF, I called their sales department and they weren't expecting any future orders so they wouldnt take mine?! I was too tired to push but that seems loving weird. Specifically 2x6 I believe? Mr. Mambold posted:edit Yea thats where I'm at, thanks!
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May 29, 2021 01:55
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Boy, this music box would go a lot faster if I didn't have to dimension all of these boards by hand. And if any of them were flat. And I had any idea what I was doing.
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May 29, 2021 02:02
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Does anyone know of a place that sells blades and iron for hand tools if I wanted to start making my own? I'm currently using a chisel as a rabbet and router. Was thinking of trying to make my own if that was a possibility by buying appropriate irons.
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May 29, 2021 02:42
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ughhhh posted:Does anyone know of a place that sells blades and iron for hand tools if I wanted to start making my own? I'm currently using a chisel as a rabbet and router. Was thinking of trying to make my own if that was a possibility by buying appropriate irons. Hock tools sells a good variety. Lee Valley sells blades separately for almost all of their planes. There's probably others as well.
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May 29, 2021 03:57
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Aren't most high end wooden gunstocks made from european walnut? I remember reading about turkish walnut in particular.
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May 29, 2021 05:49
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I got a recommendation to wipe down my projects with mineral spirits between final sanding and finishing. I'm getting ready to finish a maple console table with boiled linseed oil and I'm wondering if its necessary to do the mineral spirits thing at all. I know it can act as a conditioner for stains, but if I'm using an oil finish does it offer any real benefit? Can I apply the oil shortly after the mineral spirits, when the wood still looks "wet" or should I wait until it looks completely dry?
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May 29, 2021 17:08
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I always use mineral spirits on a rag to remove all the dust leftover from sanding, and give it a few hours to completely dry. Any dust left on the surface will get all nasty when you apply finish
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May 29, 2021 17:12
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His Divine Shadow posted:Aren't most high end wooden gunstocks made from european walnut? I remember reading about turkish walnut in particular. I wouldn't be surprised, but gunsmiths here have their pick of local, where you can find some beautiful character and color. While I wouldn't call it abundant as say, maple, there's plenty growing throughout the U.S.
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May 29, 2021 17:42
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I split open about 8 aspen logs today of various lengths and they were all loving rotten int he middle, even while they were green and seeping on the outside 
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May 29, 2021 22:36
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Sockser posted:A friend wanted me to finish this chunk of butcher block for him to use for a desk, so I sanded it down and did a few coats of tung oil, but even after drying it’s always coming out kind of blotchy? If this is just a desk, try putting some paste wax on with 00 then 0000 steel wool? It's not the most durable but it's very forgiving and easy to repair damage to it. It'll knock down the fuzziest and fill in pores. If you don't like it, it rubs off with mineral spirits. Or try wet sanding with the finish to fill the pores, and level the sheen out. OH gently caress THATS BIRCH. I have the same butcher block in my shop from Ikea's scratch and dent for $40. If it was my time, I'd just wax it, maybe wet sand it once and see if it helps. Birch always looks kinda blotchy especially with oily finishes with my experience level; wax helps level out the color and blend the blotches. I just tell myself, "it's not blotch. it's figure." Briwax has a bunch of colored and tinted waxes that I love using as a "one step" finish nowadays. I thin them out with spirits and just wipe them around until it looks the way I like. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 00:27 on May 30, 2021 |
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May 30, 2021 00:09
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There are a few ways out there, some of which are less functional (in the "works at all" sense of the term) than others, to generate a cut list from a Fusion 360 project. Anybody have a recommendation for a good one?
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May 30, 2021 03:03
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Quick sanity check, threaded steel inserts are best way to attach this butcher block to a metal desk frame right?
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May 30, 2021 15:43
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