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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I can't really tell, but is that a concrete slab foundation? If so, you'll want your bottom plate to be pressure-treated, otherwise it'll rot out from moisture. Huh. It sure is. That perfectly explains the fate of the previous shed that was on that slab. Well it's not too late to re-do that so I guess I'll go ahead and buy some PT 2x4s on my trip to buy the door and window tomorrow.
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May 31, 2021 03:49
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Hi, everyone! I took an old, broken toilet out of my house. Behind it, there was this little concrete shelf that's about 6" deep and prevents a normal toilet from fitting there. Here's a picture: What's the deal with this shelf? Also, does anyone know where I'd find a toilet that would fit here or what search terms I should be using?
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May 31, 2021 05:18
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Pepper Crab posted:Hi, everyone! I took an old, broken toilet out of my house. Behind it, there was this little concrete shelf that's about 6" deep and prevents a normal toilet from fitting there.... If it's in a basement near a foundation wall, it may be to compensate for lost support in the earth if the basement floor was excavated lower than the original build depth. It could also be entombing plumbing (sewer lateral) or some type of mechanical run (other wires / pipes/conduits) The distance from the wall to the closet flange center is the rough-in. Most toilets have a 12" rough-in. Ten inches is also available. Since there was already a toilet there, I'd guess it's a 10" rough-in.
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May 31, 2021 06:03
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PainterofCrap posted:If it's in a basement near a foundation wall, it may be to compensate for lost support in the earth if the basement floor was excavated lower than the original build depth. It is in a basement, so you may be right there. It's a 12" rough-in from the back wall, but any new toilet I get will have to clear that shelf, and the bottoms of most toilets I've seen reach too far back to fit. Thank you for your reply!
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May 31, 2021 06:16
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What’s the best way to clean up the powder from a BC dry chemical extinguisher? I stupidly had one of those on my electronics workbench because it was cheaper than a halotron 1 extinguisher and now that I’ve had to use it I’m regretting it. corgski fucked around with this message at 09:41 on May 31, 2021 |
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May 31, 2021 09:15
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corgski posted:What’s the best way to clean up the powder from a BC dry chemical extinguisher? We can't possibly answer this without pictures and a story.
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May 31, 2021 15:01
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Old capacitors fail catastrophically and sometimes they decide blue smoke isn’t enough and try to take the rest of the circuit with them too. Sadly the only picture I have of the aftermath right this second isn’t that interesting, you can barely see where the failed caps are. 
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May 31, 2021 17:43
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I have a mess of romex in my attic kneewall. Total rat's nest. Is there any harm in replacing these junction boxes with PVC outdoor junction boxes? Thinking of doing this when I clean up the wiring layout (thinking of fastening them it to the studs to keep them off the floor) because we had a roof leak last year and the leaked water dripped into the knee wall. And I'd strongly prefer not having my house burn down due to electrical fire should another leak occur.
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May 31, 2021 18:31
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melon cat posted:I have a mess of romex in my attic kneewall. Total rat's nest. I don't see the harm, but this might be something to check with your LOCAL code to see what the deal is just to make sure. Don't forget to then connect the ground wires, since the plastic boxes won't conduct electricity (duh  )
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May 31, 2021 18:34
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 I have this pressure relief at a hose bib on the side of my house. I was doing some painting on that side of the house and noticed it steadily dripping, almost a constant trickle. The ground wasn't soaked beneath it so it hadn't been going for very long. I went in the house and turned on a nearby faucet and when I came back out it had stopped. It's been half and hour or so and it hasn't dripped any more. Is this anything to worry about?
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May 31, 2021 20:29
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corgski posted:Old capacitors fail catastrophically and sometimes they decide blue smoke isn’t enough and try to take the rest of the circuit with them too.  Yeah wear a respirator and chemical goggles. Take it outside whatever you do, and hepa vac whatever is left inside. Expect to be finding that powder literally forever. It's basically baking soda and silica. You can literally hose stuff down if you want. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:08 on May 31, 2021 |
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May 31, 2021 21:05
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I have a locking interior door that when locked still turns and opens the door if turned in one direction. If you try to turn the knob the other direction, it does not move. Turning it and opening the door does not change the door to unlocked. I have no clue if its fixable or if I need to buy a new doorknob.
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May 31, 2021 21:40
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melon cat posted:I have a mess of romex in my attic kneewall. Total rat's nest. Either way those need work, none of those wires are clamped, not enough staples, I bet there is more inside the boxes themselves. I doubt it's a problem, can you show us where you're going to move them in a wide-angle shot? Also there is a home wiring thread for more specific answers. Recycled Karma posted:I have a locking interior door that when locked still turns and opens the door if turned in one direction. If you try to turn the knob the other direction, it does not move. Turning it and opening the door does not change the door to unlocked. It might be fixable but honestly I would just replace it, the kit is going to be less than $20 for something basic and interior. Take it apart and see if something is just turned a quarter turn wrong. I have no idea what those locks look like on the inside but I'm assuming this is not a keyed lock, but a bedroom/bathroom lock where basically anything in the outside will unlock and open it.
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May 31, 2021 22:37
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H110Hawk posted:
Cool. I’m definitely getting a halon or halotron extinguisher to replace it. 
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Jun 1, 2021 00:17
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Stack Machine posted:Well it's, um progressing. 2 days in and half of the walls have been reframed and I'm about $2200 in for materials and tools for a 6x10 shed. The 3-day weekend will probably end with 4 walls framed and no sheathing or roofing up but we'll see.  Today's progress: 4 walls with pressure treated bottom plates and a door. The header on the window almost didn't get in there, then after imagining roof members transferring the weight of snow or my future self to nothing but shear forces on nails, I kind of hacked one in. You can notice by looking at the door vs the door frame that the front wall is leaning a bit out of square but I assume as long as I'm holding it vertical when I nail on the sheathing it'll stay put at square instead of relaxing like it does now to slightly tilted.
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Jun 1, 2021 01:49
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I have a gorgeous old solid-bronze torchiere floorlamp that I bought a few years ago. It flickers like crazy, though. The cord, plug, and I'm guessing socket are all obviously decades old at least. I'd like to solve the flickering problem and eliminate the potential fire hazard. Is my best bet to just find a reputable antique shop in the area and bring it to them for repairs, assuming they offer them? vvv edit: thank you! surf rock fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 03:26
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surf rock posted:I have a gorgeous old solid-bronze torchiere floorlamp that I bought a few years ago. It flickers like crazy, though. The cord, plug, and I'm guessing socket are all obviously decades old at least. I'd like to solve the flickering problem and eliminate the potential fire hazard. Is my best bet to just find a reputable antique shop in the area and bring it to them for repairs, assuming they offer them? Probably not that hard to rewire yourself, but if you’re in much of a city there is almost certainly a lamp or antique store that can fix it. Look for places that sell a lot of chandeliers-they always know the crazy old electrician that fixes them if they aren’t working there already.
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Jun 1, 2021 04:18
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My smoke detectors are 20 years old now (oops). Which model should I get? Mine are hardwired with a battery backup, and I hate changing the 9 volt batteries on them. I should probably also get a carbon monoxide detector too, yeah?
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Jun 1, 2021 08:01
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PainterofCrap posted:If it's in a basement near a foundation wall, it may be to compensate for lost support in the earth if the basement floor was excavated lower than the original build depth. One of my first home projects was fixing a leaky toilet tank in the basement bathroom. The tank was just so very slightly too close to the wall and was loose as a result. Tightened the bolts a little ... leak lessened slightly ... tightened the bolts a little ... leak lessened slightly ... tightened the bolts a little ... leak lessene--*crack*. That was when I discovered that the last person to install a toilet there had used a 12" rough-in where only a 10" would fit. When I bought the appropriately-sized toilet things went very smoothly.
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Jun 1, 2021 14:45
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Is it difficult to change the crank mechanism in a casement window? Are there different kinds of cranks or are they universal? The window was here when I bought the house so will I be able to tell from the crank which kind I need?
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Jun 1, 2021 22:41
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Hey guys, I just moved and got a dryer given to me. I'm having to put a new 4 prong cord on it. I just want to confirm I did things right because I looked it up on google. I took the original 3 prong cord off, and went to put the new 4 wire cord on. I took the little white ground wire coming from inside the dryer off its ground bolt, and hooked it in with the middle neutral wire on the little wire block. I put the green ground cable on the new cord on the grounding bolt. Then the 2 hot wires go on the outside blocks, and which one is which shouldn't matter as long as the red and black hot wires go to each outside spot. Then the white neutral wire on the cord goes in the middle block along with that original white ground wire coming from the dryer. Is that right? Heres a photo. The right hot wire isn't screwed in yet because the screw was messed up and wouldn't go in all the way, I need to get a new one. I also switched the red and black wires because it was easier to have red on the left, and google say it doesn't matter which hot wire goes on which side. 
Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 22:43
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Is that right? Yes
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Jun 1, 2021 22:54
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it makes me a little paranoid how close the hots are to the neutral, is that a big deal as long as I get the screws tight enough they don't move? There isn't a lot of play with the wires on the new plug.
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Jun 1, 2021 22:56
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:it makes me a little paranoid how close the hots are to the neutral, is that a big deal as long as I get the screws tight enough they don't move? There isn't a lot of play with the wires on the new plug. I always bend the neutral crimped connectors a bit so they "stack" a bit more, and angle the hots slightly outwards (like the pictured red wire). Despite the movement of the dryer I've never had an issue with arcing in the dozens I've installed. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 23:08
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BigBallChunkyTime posted:Is it difficult to change the crank mechanism in a casement window? Are there different kinds of cranks or are they universal? The window was here when I bought the house so will I be able to tell from the crank which kind I need?
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Jun 2, 2021 00:00
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Blackbeer posted:I always bend the neutral crimped connectors a bit so they "stack" a bit more, and angle the hots slightly outwards (like the pictured red wire). Despite the movement of the dryer I've never had an issue with arcing in the dozens I've installed. Yeah, I surge test coils sometimes at work, and I've noticed I have to be at least 6 or 7k volts before they will arc, even if the leads are sitting really close together. Not sure if amperage comes in to play but afaik it's mostly volts(and humidity and stuff) when calculating arc potential. And dryers run on what, 220v?
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Jun 2, 2021 01:31
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Yeah, I surge test coils sometimes at work, and I've noticed I have to be at least 6 or 7k volts before they will arc, even if the leads are sitting really close together. Not sure if amperage comes in to play but afaik it's mostly volts(and humidity and stuff) when calculating arc potential. And dryers run on what, 220v? The heat is 240V, the motor and controls are 120V (hence the neutral). It's a good question/thing to think about when installing. Unrelated, I don't think that neutral from the dryer even needs hooked up as it's just bonding the frame somewhere after the motor neutral hookup, but it's what the manufacturers instruct. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 02:09
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Someone please help me figure out how to install this little plastic thingy in my new French door freezer drawer, I’ve looked everywhere and simply cannot figure out where this thing goes. It’s from a whirlpool model no. WRF535SWHV03 and the installers didn’t put it in when they dropped off the fridge. 
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Jun 2, 2021 02:55
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Lawnie posted:Someone please help me figure out how to install this little plastic thingy in my new French door freezer drawer, I’ve looked everywhere and simply cannot figure out where this thing goes. It’s from a whirlpool model no. WRF535SWHV03 and the installers didn’t put it in when they dropped off the fridge.  (#31, it's a Bailing arm or fift I guess, dunno what that means). VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 02:57
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Lawnie posted:Someone please help me figure out how to install this little plastic thingy in my new French door freezer drawer, I’ve looked everywhere and simply cannot figure out where this thing goes. It’s from a whirlpool model no. WRF535SWHV03 and the installers didn’t put it in when they dropped off the fridge. It clips onto the wire basket, see the diagram above. If there's an icemaker adjacent to that basket, my guess is that it pops the icemaker arm up when you pull the basket out to prevent it from cycling a load of ice into the bottom of the freezer case. edit: yeah, it's the icemaker bail arm lift: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BAIL-ARM-LIFT-W10149389-Whirlpool-Maytag-Kenmore-KitchenAid-Refrigerators-/133598913344 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 03:40
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Yep, thanks for sorting that out for me. Glad it’s there now... I guess?
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Jun 2, 2021 04:14
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So I've acquired a 30 year old Kenwood stirring machine which works perfectly, but the last owner cautioned me it needs an oil change. It's apparently a Kenwood A910, and while I understand that I need to get into the gearbox in the top, I don't know how to get at it. Anyone has any experience with the Kenwood line, or know where I should look? Thanks. 
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Jun 3, 2021 13:34
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I have zero familiarity with the object in question, but if you can't find any exposed screw heads, the next thing to start checking typically is whether part of the cowling can be pulled away. If there's a seam and one side flexes a bit, see if you can fit some thin bit of metal into the seam. Run it along the seam until you hit an obstruction; that's probably a catch on the inside of the device that's holding the cowling in place. Push it away from the cowling and see if you can move it more.
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Jun 3, 2021 14:56
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OH GOD BRITISH KITCHEN TECH RUN AWAY Seriously: It appears that there are removable panels, particularly on the top. If they are, and they do pop off, you should find screws/bolts/magic fasteners underneath. It that doesn't work: flip it over & see if there are accessible screws Edit: It's a 901. Here's a video showing how to disassemble it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v1hv98tEuk If it's smoking, you need to replace some magic stripey bits on the speed controller, and there's another video for that. Or, you could ask this guy, who sells a servicing kit including the proper grease: https://www.kenwoodchefrestore.co.uk/shop/kenwood-chef-service-repair-a901 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 14:58
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Actually that video doesn't show how to access the gears at all. I think the procedure for that is going to be similar to the one for the A701a here.
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Jun 3, 2021 15:27
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I'm replacing my soap dispenser and having a hell of a time unthreading this on the current one, any tips? I'm sure there's some fancy tool that plumbers would have, but I don't. I don't have a ton of room to work with on the sides, but I really just need to get it a bit loose.
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Jun 3, 2021 21:08
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You need a basin wrench. It's basically a wrench with a 90-degree pivot near the jaws. I don't think realistically you're getting that thing off without one.
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Jun 3, 2021 21:55
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If you saw off everything above it it'll come off That was not a fun day. Just get the basin wrench.
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Jun 3, 2021 22:22
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will do thanks
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Jun 3, 2021 23:16
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You might be able to get away with a Knipex pliers wrench. They are really good for pipes and fittings but are very good handyman tool, as one tool can work on a huge variety of fasteners. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_RLWKMXrqk Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 23:23
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