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PainterofCrap posted:That appears to be a basement floor with vinyl plank over concrete. There is water under the flooring. You can leave it but it'll take months to dry and mold may become an issue (not guaranteed, but possible). If the plank is not glued, you could call the mitigation company and ask them if they can use a vacuum mat system to suck the water up without lifting the floor. They lay mats of various sizes on the floor and hook up hoses to a vacuum unit & it runs for a few days until the relative humidity is restored, It';s loud & there'll be little hoses running all over the basement, but it works great. Man I was really hoping you'd chime in, thanks! Only note, it is not a basement floor. It's on the 1st floor, and the basement is finished (I finished it last year, including sheetrocking the ceiling.) I know they can tell moisture content underneath flooring with some gadgets, I'm hoping the guy coming today/tomorrow can do that before we get into mitigation/deductible territory. Also plumbing co is sending someone out to fix the leak (though tightening the connect doesn't seem like it'd be that hard. It's the damage already done that's the issue. We'll see what the company owner says later.) Update: Turns out it was more than just tightening it down. Brand new flood protection valve had a broken gasket, and... caused it to flood. Which it then didn't detect. loving irony. 
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Jun 7, 2021 16:17
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Any tips or tricks to getting an undermount sink out of the vanity? I can't seem to get a good angle on the adhesive/sealant around the rim.
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Jun 7, 2021 18:54
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Man I was really hoping you'd chime in, thanks! Keep that part. Keep all of the valve components. Do not let them leave your possession, as chain of custody must remain unbroken in order to have a successful recovery in subro. Put everything in a plastic bag & mark it with a description & the date. Get any documentation made to locate & identify this problem: bills, reports, names & numbers. They’ll use a UV detector or a handheld contact baton to determine moisture. The pad system should work there as well. They may have to cut a couple holes in the basement ceiling for ventilation. Are you seeing stains on that ceiling? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 22:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Keep that part. Keep all of the valve components. Do not let them leave your possession, as chain of custody must remain unbroken in order to have a successful recovery in subro. Put everything in a plastic bag & mark it with a description & the date. Get any documentation made to locate & identify this problem: bills, reports, names & numbers. Too late, the plumber said his insurance co would need it, and I didn't think anything of it. So far they've been willing to work with me though.
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Jun 7, 2021 22:29
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Got some cracks in our ~2 year old shower and bathtub, one along a vertical corner and another horizontal crack along the base alongside the floor (i.e. plane changes). Is the correct thing to do: - Get a tool to remove grout - Remove it - Replace with color-appropriate silicone caulk because that poo poo was done wrong from the get-go For the tool, should I trust myself with an attachment for a reciprocating saw, or go with the old-school grout saw
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Jun 8, 2021 01:42
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Recip saw is gonna be too intense, I think. Oscillating multi tools have grout blades you can get, or just a regular grout scraping tool would do fine with some elbow grease.
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Jun 8, 2021 02:34
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Do we have a real estate thread? I'm looking to buy a building lot here in NJ. Aside from pulling a plat and walking it with the seller, what else do I need besides a couple hours with a real-estate lawyer to be sure there are no liens on it? There are no realtors involved. Yet. VVV THANK YOU PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 04:10
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PainterofCrap posted:Do we have a real estate thread? I'm looking to buy a building lot here in NJ. Aside from pulling a plat and walking it with the seller, what else do I need besides a couple hours with a real-estate lawyer to be sure there are no liens on it? There are no realtors involved. Yet. There's some stuff over in BFC: https://forums.somethingawful.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=200
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Jun 8, 2021 04:11
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PainterofCrap posted:Do we have a real estate thread? I'm looking to buy a building lot here in NJ. Aside from pulling a plat and walking it with the seller, what else do I need besides a couple hours with a real-estate lawyer to be sure there are no liens on it? There are no realtors involved. Yet. Once you inevitably discover you’ve unwittingly purchased an unbuildable superfund site the Corps of Engineers considers wetlands that floods all winter and catches fire every summer when it’s not being lashed by hurricanes or eaten by termites, post here for commiseration and mitigation advice. We look forward to your thread about living in the back of a U-Haul as you try to figure out where things went wrong and where that second, grandfathered-in outhouse is going to go.
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Jun 8, 2021 04:38
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I need to replace the locks on my mother's house. My dad replaced them last ~18 years ago or so with the cheapest Kwikset ones they had at Home Depot, and they've just about stopped working properly. I know how to replace them as far as removing the old ones and installing the new ones, but I'm unsure about what locks I should be replacing them with. What brand should I go with? Is it worth getting them rekeyed at a locksmith to avoid having the same key as everybody else who bought from Home Depot that month? If you stick with the original keys, how do you buy three deadbolt+handle sets that use the same key? Any advice on the subject would be welcome.
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Jun 8, 2021 05:51
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Two completely unrelated questions for the thread: 1) Do I need to do anything special when taping/mudding a joint between existing, painted drywall and freshly hung drywall? E.g. expect an extra coat on the painted side, or should I be priming it? 2) I'm looking to paint an iron metal railing on my porch. It's rusted in places. I know to scrape that clean as I can and to use a paint for metal. My question is will all metal paints be ok around (cleaned as can be) rust, or do I need something that's advertised as such (like rust-oleum)? It can be hard to tell the gimmicks from the real deal.
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Jun 8, 2021 13:47
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Khizan posted:I need to replace the locks on my mother's house. My dad replaced them last ~18 years ago or so with the cheapest Kwikset ones they had at Home Depot, and they've just about stopped working properly. Different direction: Have you lubed them? Locks need a little bit of graphite lube, it's a dry product. If you have blasted them with wd40 over the years taking then apart and degreasing them the lubing them up with graphite might get you working locks. I would dunk the cylinders in like ?acetone? To clean them. Don't use wd40. Otherwise I would either go to a locksmith and buy them, ask them to be keyed alike. Don't let them trick you into medeco or other patented keyways. This will get you nice locks but will cost much more than home depot. You could even have them keyed to your current locks. Have them make you 10 or 20 keys while you're at it. Whatever matches your needs but no less than 10. Kw1 keys are like $1-2/each past the setup on the first one. Otherwise home depot has kwikset locks, don't get the magic easy rekey locks. Make sure the numbers all match and they will be the same. Doesn't matter if 20 other people have matching locks, unless someone knows how to map that to your house it isn't useful information.
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Jun 8, 2021 15:21
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Jenkl posted:Two completely unrelated questions for the thread: If you don't mind putting in the work, here's how I would spec it from a performance and rust prevention standpoint. 1- scrape/sand/wire brush/etc to get all loose, flaking, and bubbling paint and rust off. Some tight surface rust is OK. All the existing paint that's well adhered and in good shape just thoroughly clean and scuff sand. 2- spot prime all the exposed steel and rusted areas with an oil/alkyd rust inhibitive primer. Rustoleum should have one if that's available at a local retailer or ask an actual paint store what they've got. 3- once your spot prime is ready to recoat (whatever the can says), come back and do a full prime of the entire railing. This way you have ensured good adhesion over the entire rail and now you have two coats of primer over the areas that were bare/rusted. This helps encapsulate those areas better and minimize any pinholes for moisture and oxygen to reach the steel. 4- topcoat with a good oil- or water-based enamel made for metal. Oil will be more durable if it gets handled and abused a lot. Acrylic will be more UV resistant and mildew resistant if that's much of a concern where it's at.
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Jun 8, 2021 15:47
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Jenkl posted:Two completely unrelated questions for the thread: I don’t do any extra prep when putting joint compound over paint and it works out fine. I’d just hit the new drywall and the joints with Zinsser drywall primer. It’ll seal up the new stuff so that paint doesn’t just suck into the pores, and you’ll get an even sheen. That primer also adheres fine to painted surfaces, so go over the transition areas too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-Gal-Drywall-Interior-Primer-1501/203325620
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Jun 8, 2021 18:18
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Thanks to both of you for tag-teaming by questions  .
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Jun 8, 2021 18:44
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before I call them up and possibly embarrass myself, I'm trying to install the most simple ceiling light ever, but there's this square thing with a circular hole in the diagram - they call it a mounting plate, but it's not in the box, nor is it in the parts list. What exactly is this thing?
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Jun 9, 2021 00:11
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actionjackson posted:before I call them up and possibly embarrass myself, I'm trying to install the most simple ceiling light ever, but there's this square thing with a circular hole in the diagram - they call it a mounting plate, but it's not in the box, nor is it in the parts list. What exactly is this thing? That's your ceiling.
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Jun 9, 2021 00:33
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H110Hawk posted:That's your ceiling. oh god this is embarrassing why do they call it that, is it because if it's new construction the plate is a separate piece at that point?
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Jun 9, 2021 00:46
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The mounting plate is labeled B in the diagram.
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Jun 9, 2021 00:50
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H110Hawk posted:That's your ceiling. lmao actionjackson posted:oh god this is embarrassing That's part B. Your junction box has holes on it that you screw the mounting plate to, then you attach the light to the mounting plate. edit: if you look closely, you'll see a dashed line going from the screws (C) through the mounting plate (B) up to the junction box. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 9, 2021 |
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Jun 9, 2021 00:51
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actionjackson posted:oh god this is embarrassing
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Jun 9, 2021 00:52
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Slugworth posted:Where do they call it out as a mounting plate? There's no marking on it in that image. well in the parts list they call the circular ring (part B) the mounting bracket, so I thought the mounting plate was the other thing 
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Jun 9, 2021 00:59
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Mods: Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses › Fix It Fast: The Quick Question And DIY Resource Megathread: That's your ceiling
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Jun 9, 2021 02:02
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H110Hawk posted:That's your ceiling. I too have been very confused by parts diagrams OP do not be too embarrassed
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Jun 9, 2021 03:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Lmbo let he who is without plans cast the first stone (A).
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Jun 9, 2021 06:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Lmbo Yeah turns out writing instructions is actually hard. Most people don't install light fixtures on a regular basis, there's no reason that a person should inherently know that the "mounting bracket" is the same thing as the "mounting plate." I would guess this is either a translation error, or the writer said, "eh gently caress it they'll know what I'm talking about" and moved on to the next thing. I still remember the exercise in grade school where you're supposed to write step-by-step instructions for something simple (I assume most people did this). Ours was making a PB&J sandwich. Everyone in class failed miserably when the teacher tried to follow the directions precisely and without using outside knowledge. Most of the time she didn't open the bag of bread or get the cover off the PB jar. If she got further, she found other ways to fail in some comical and unintended way. Obviously that was the expected result; nobody was supposed to get it 100% right because that was the whole point of the lesson: not everyone is starting from the same base level of knowledge. What is obvious to you may be completely foreign or counter-intuitive to someone else.
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Jun 9, 2021 13:13
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"I'm not owned" I say as I wait on hold, ready to ask why my ceiling isn't in the box
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Jun 9, 2021 16:45
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This is why Lego and Ikea have dumped a ton of time and effort into codifying and polishing the best possible way to present instructions without words and yeah, it's pretty hard and even they make confusing stuff all the time, lol.
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Jun 9, 2021 16:56
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mutata posted:This is why Lego and Ikea have dumped a ton of time and effort into codifying and polishing the best possible way to present instructions without words and yeah, it's pretty hard and even they make confusing stuff all the time, lol. I had these window coverings for years and never did figure out how to make em roll up on their own.
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Jun 9, 2021 17:34
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Corla Plankun posted:I had these window coverings for years and never did figure out how to make em roll up on their own. I have these blinds, and it's saying to roll them up manually backwards a few inches and let go. This loads the mechanism inside and makes it roll up the right way.
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Jun 9, 2021 17:36
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Amazingly enough, the adventure isn't over. If I'm missing something really dumb then, well I'm already obviously a moron so that's okay In the parts diagram, the mountain plate has two holes on the inner part, which lines up with the screw holes for my junction box. But in the assembly diagram, those holes are not there, and they are not on my mounting plate! I am waiting to hear back from them. In the assembly part it looks like that on the magically transformed plate, they just attach it on one side through that oval and the other screw... just doesn't go through? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Jun 9, 2021 |
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Jun 9, 2021 19:39
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We're buying a new house. It dates to 1931. It has no insulation. It's in a moderate climate, so we've decided we can manage. The dining room has a through-the-wall Thermador electric heater that dates at least to the 1950s by the look of it, and is possibly older. We certainly won't use it. What are good brands of wall-mounted electric heater for a replacement? Gas isn't an option, because the house has one tiny propane tank that powers a gas fireplace. I'm assuming (we have no building skills) we'd want to buy it, then hire somebody to patch the outside and inside walls before installing the new one. Yes, we are putting in solar soon, because the only way to heat this house is with electric heaters. There is no ductwork for central heating, and there's no spare wallspace to put ductwork in.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:43
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We're buying a new house. It dates to 1931. It has no insulation. It's in a moderate climate, so we've decided we can manage. The dining room has a through-the-wall Thermador electric heater that dates at least to the 1950s by the look of it, and is possibly older. We certainly won't use it. What are good brands of wall-mounted electric heater for a replacement? Gas isn't an option, because the house has one tiny propane tank that powers a gas fireplace. I'm assuming (we have no building skills) we'd want to buy it, then hire somebody to patch the outside and inside walls before installing the new one.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Have you looked at mini-split systems? They can do heat and AC and don’t need ductwork, but they can be expensive (but also quite efficient)
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Jun 9, 2021 21:57
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We won't need AC; highest local temperature is 78. Right now, I want to fix the obsolete heater. We're going to go a few months, at least until December, before deciding whether we need anything more substantial. If it never gets super freezing there a minisplit can be more efficient than resistance heating, and the cooling properties are just a bonus. It's just an Air Conditioner run in reverse to make heat.
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Jun 9, 2021 22:49
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We're buying a new house. It dates to 1931. It has no insulation. It's in a moderate climate, so we've decided we can manage. The dining room has a through-the-wall Thermador electric heater that dates at least to the 1950s by the look of it, and is possibly older. We certainly won't use it. What are good brands of wall-mounted electric heater for a replacement? Gas isn't an option, because the house has one tiny propane tank that powers a gas fireplace. I'm assuming (we have no building skills) we'd want to buy it, then hire somebody to patch the outside and inside walls before installing the new one. Have you done your homework to ensure that you get enough solar irradiance in your area to make solar worth it? I'm a big fan of solar, but heating is generally not its value unless you somewhere with net metering and you can bank a significant chunk of net-metered power over the summer.
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Jun 9, 2021 22:52
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Thanks for the warning! The place we'll be moving to is PG&E, which does net metering, but of course California is messing around with the solar reimbursement rules this year and who knows where they'll wind up; one proposal is that your electric provider will buy all the power you produce at the wholesale rate, giving you no way to simply use your own power. My interest in solar is partially because of power failures; this is a rural seacoast area that loses power every few years due to storms. I would rather have a solar system + battery than a generator. Can anybody answer my original question, about a good panel wall heater? At present I want to fix one room, not the entire house.
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Jun 10, 2021 02:34
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actionjackson posted:Amazingly enough, the adventure isn't over. If I'm missing something really dumb then, well I'm already obviously a moron so that's okay You are correct that in the assembly diagram it has the mounting plate you received and uses the slats for access. You might be in a situation where they provide hardware for a box size that is larger than what you have, and you either need a new plate, adapter, or to change the box out. The diagram looks like a typical 4inch box and your ceiling box might be like 3.5 (I think someone in one of these DIY threads just had a similar issue?( Do not hang it with a single screw.
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Jun 10, 2021 02:50
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actionjackson posted:Amazingly enough, the adventure isn't over. If I'm missing something really dumb then, well I'm already obviously a moron so that's okay That is some truly ninth-ring technical writing. Jesus. No, you're not crazy: the first drawing has the tabs. They have retracted (maybe it was cold?) in the second. Arsenic Lupin posted:We're buying a new house. It dates to 1931. It has no insulation. It's in a moderate climate, so we've decided we can manage. The dining room has a through-the-wall Thermador electric heater that dates at least to the 1950s by the look of it, and is possibly older. We certainly won't use it. What are good brands of wall-mounted electric heater for a replacement? ... Are you looking for something to wire in the existing Thermador draw? If it's 220V, you can get an electric baseboard unit, either with a thermostat attached to the unit itself, or a remote/wired unit. Baseboard units surface-mount and the wiring for them has to be at either end of the unit (not in the middle). They are very effective and robust. The only thing I don't like about the ones I've installed in my house is they suck electricity at an amazing rate (as any electric heater does) PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 03:42
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actionjackson posted:Amazingly enough, the adventure isn't over. If I'm missing something really dumb then, well I'm already obviously a moron so that's okay That's all sorts of hosed up. Not only is the manual screwed up, but they sent you the completely wrong part. Those interior tabs shown on the top-right picture are exactly what you need, but obviously don't have. The manufacturer is going to have to send you the correct part. I think you can get adapters elsewhere, but might be worth waiting on the manufacturer. PainterofCrap posted:That is some truly ninth-ring technical writing. Jesus. Looks like gently caress-ups all around. Manual was written, someone discovered they needed those tabs for smaller boxes. One figure got updated, the other didn't, and production never received the updated drawings. The real head scratcher here is the tabs on what OP received. How'd they migrate from the inside to the outside? The drawing clearly shows them either on the inside or non-existent, not on the outside. Manual drawings typically come directly from engineering drawings, so somebody had it right at some point to have the tabs on the inside, but somehow this happened. I could speculate, but this is pretty bad. I mean, I've seen worse gently caress-ups, but this is just confusing. I'm actually kind of impressed at the level of half-assedness here. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 12:15
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