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DaveSauce posted:That's all sorts of hosed up. Not only is the manual screwed up, but they sent you the completely wrong part. "We need to ad tabs! without them our plate doesn't fit all junction boxes" "Ok Boss, I'll add tabs."
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Jun 10, 2021 16:18
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Mods: Check the forum title. 
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Jun 10, 2021 20:59
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H110Hawk posted:That's your ceiling.  DaveSauce posted:Yeah turns out writing instructions is actually hard. Most people don't install light fixtures on a regular basis, there's no reason that a person should inherently know that the "mounting bracket" is the same thing as the "mounting plate." I would guess this is either a translation error, or the writer said, "eh gently caress it they'll know what I'm talking about" and moved on to the next thing. Same, except we had to make our own sandwiches. Many a PB&J were made that day with fingers and without bread. It's a parable I tell my own children now.
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Jun 10, 2021 21:01
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Double-crossposting because nodody in the Pest Control thread seems to know. Are there any good wasp/hornet traps y’all recommend? Mostly for paper wasps and the like. I busted a few the other day trying to build a nest in one of my tree trunk covers.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:36
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PainterofCrap posted:That is some truly ninth-ring technical writing. Jesus. I talked to them and they are sending me the correct mounting plate, sounds like I'm not the first one with this issue! question: I'm putting in an ELV dimmer for my new bathroom light (btw why are these so drat expensive). For a single pole installation where I have two black wires and a ground coming from my outlet box, do I connect the two blacks to the black and white wires coming from the dimmer, ground to ground (obviously), and then the yellow one just gets capped? Or should I look for a white wire in the box? I'm pretty sure it's the latter since I think neutral is required for ELV, but not triac. I'm not sure if it matters which of my two black wires connect to the black and yellow spots. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 01:45
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Here's an odd one for the thread: Can you finish cement board so it is consistent with drywall? Basically at a point where, just given how the existing plumbing and framing is done, the ideal cement board install would stretch ~6" past where we'd want the tile to end. I'd like to finish that so it's painted and feels/looks the same as the drywall. Maybe skim it with mud, or even cement, then prime, and paint? Sanding over the joint might get me the consistent surface I want. Just adding the correct stud/blocking is not really an option unfortunately. So it's basically finish or add extra tile I think.
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Jun 11, 2021 14:31
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I've become addicted to Dashner Design Restoration. A lot of the jobs are way, way outside my reach -- just look at his set of power tools and the skills needed to use them -- but I'm interested in his latest approach to removing old finishes. He's using a scraper, then sanding lightly and using naptha (I think?) to remove the sanding dust. He says that the existing chemical strippers don't work all that well because the texture is wrong and/or they're sticky and require constant cleaning during use. I have three questions. 1. Is stripping old varnish with scrapers something an amateur can do, or does it require practiced skills to keep you from gouging the wood? 2. Who would you buy a high-quality wood scraper from? Would a card scraper be better or worse than a scraper tool? 3. Lee Valley Tools has special scrapers to do inside angles and curves. Would these help with the turned-wood bits that some of my junk shop finds have? Thanks.
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Jun 11, 2021 16:13
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Hopefully, this is the correct thread for this question: I know nothing about tools. What do I call the little rubber/plastic guard on the teeth of this adjustable wrench? I've tried googling around but haven't found anything. I need to find some for the wrench I have so that I can loosen the nut on my espresso machine without marking it up. Edit: here's a pic of the thing I mean: 
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Jun 11, 2021 17:12
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You could probably get away with using a paper towel wrapped around the nut, or a piece of cloth in between the jaws and the nut. Otherwise, I have no idea. Wrench jaw guards or something?
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Jun 11, 2021 17:27
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:You could probably get away with using a paper towel wrapped around the nut, or a piece of cloth in between the jaws and the nut. Otherwise, I have no idea. Wrench jaw guards or something? I've tried cloth and tape for this kind of thing, and the wrench's teeth will cut through them very easily in my experience.
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Jun 11, 2021 17:38
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I would call those "soft jaws". I'd expect to have to buy a tool specifically with soft jaws on it rather than finding some generic covers to fit the wrench you already own, though.
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Jun 11, 2021 18:22
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Wrapping the jaws with several layers of electrical tape works okay
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Jun 11, 2021 18:37
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Or heat shrink tubing. If it's that thick you could probably just dip it in a tin of Plastidip or a soft curing resin.
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Jun 11, 2021 18:41
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Any time I need to make up a nut that needs to look pretty I just do the electrical tape thing like Kaiser suggested. Works a charm.
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Jun 11, 2021 19:12
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There's a lot of non marring wrenches and tools on amazon but I didn't see the exact one from the picture. Non marring does seem to be the keywords for plastic jaws and lug nut removers with plastic shrouds.
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Jun 11, 2021 19:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Wrapping the jaws with several layers of electrical tape works okay I think this is the answer I was looking for. I'm not really wanting to buy a specialised tool for this job. Thanks for your input everybody!
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Jun 11, 2021 20:28
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Gunder posted:I think this is the answer I was looking for. I'm not really wanting to buy a specialised tool for this job. Thanks for your input everybody! you should really have a box wrench that fits. The pliers will always be a risk.
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Jun 11, 2021 20:41
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Jerk McJerkface posted:you should really have a box wrench that fits. The pliers will always be a risk. This is one of the cases where I think an adjustable wrench works best, because you can pad the jaws/nut without worrying about sizing. I like to use strips of those little rubber things people use for opening jars because it grips nicely even on stuff that's polished smooth.
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Jun 11, 2021 21:14
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Khizan posted:This is one of the cases where I think an adjustable wrench works best, because you can pad the jaws/nut without worrying about sizing. I like to use strips of those little rubber things people use for opening jars because it grips nicely even on stuff that's polished smooth. A correctly fitting box wrench shouldn't scuff at all, right?
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Jun 11, 2021 21:24
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Jerk McJerkface posted:you should really have a box wrench that fits. The pliers will always be a risk. Pliers wrench https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAEaKGZQ8Ec
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Jun 11, 2021 21:55
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Jerk McJerkface posted:A correctly fitting box wrench shouldn't scuff at all, right? Shouldn't and don't tend to be a bit of a gray area. The sum of all the tolerances, materials, torque spec, and actual torque applied will determine your outcome.
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Jun 11, 2021 22:09
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Jerk McJerkface posted:A correctly fitting box wrench shouldn't scuff at all, right? I like to avoid metal-on-metal contact with display parts like that when I can. It takes a little more time, but I think it's worth it to be sure that I'm not going to gently caress up the finish.
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Jun 11, 2021 22:34
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Jerk McJerkface posted:A correctly fitting box wrench shouldn't scuff at all, right? Cheap plated bolts are rarely if ever sized down to accommodate for the plating, so a lot of "correctly fitting" box wrenches won't even fit to a plated bolt without scratching or breaking the plating.
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Jun 11, 2021 23:09
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I don’t know what this finish on our concrete floor is. We just moved in, and I guess one of the feet got busted off a couch and gouged the floor. My wife is beating herself up about it and I’d like to at least tell her it’s fixable. Advice?  edit: my solution is a rug. she’s very upset. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 02:07
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eddiewalker posted:I don’t know what this finish on our concrete floor is. We just moved in, and I guess one of the feet got busted off a couch and gouged the floor. It's hard to tell from the photo, but that looks like an epoxy resin on concrete. Repairing that scratch may not be difficult: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-repair-scratch-in-epoxy-floor.339647/
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Jun 12, 2021 03:47
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It’s some kind of brown paper they coated over. edit: huh I guess elmer’s gluing brown paper to floors and coating with polyurethane is a thing. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 07:20
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Stack Machine posted:[shed] Update:  I'm still working on this when I can find a few dry minutes outside to scrape together. Still have ceiling joists to add but this is it for the rafters. It's starting to look almost building-like.
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Jun 12, 2021 20:50
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I need some dryer repair help. I have an older generic Whirlpool dryer that takes multiple cycles to fully dry clothes. It's seemingly been getting worse lately. Symptoms: - Clothes feel warm but damp after a cycle - I can periodically see an orange glow from the heating element when I look behind the dryer so I believe that is working - My lint catcher ain't catching much lint if any. I took apart the back panel, took out the lint tower, no real blockages to speak of - I took a shop vac and sucked as much as I could from the dryer, and from the vent connector going in to the wall My initial thought is poor air flow but I'm not sure how to start testing that.
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Jun 13, 2021 02:28
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Did you check the outside vent? When this happened to my sister's dryer the culprit was a bird's nest in the outside vent.
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Jun 13, 2021 02:38
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Khizan posted:Did you check the outside vent? When this happened to my sister's dryer the culprit was a bird's nest in the outside vent. It's dark out but I just walked around the house and didn't see the vent outlet. I sure hope it's not on the roof (this is a rental) but I'll check tomorrow when I have more light.
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Jun 13, 2021 02:45
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If your dryer isn't against an outside wall I'd be very surprised if the vent is anywhere other than the roof. If it is up against an outside wall then the vent probably just goes straight through the wall.
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Jun 13, 2021 02:49
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Thanks to the goons a few pages ago who replied to my painting questions, it was definitely information I can use. I now have a few more questions. Before I paint, I need to patch a few holes/gouges etc as mentioned in my other post. Is Poly Filla the good poo poo? If not, whats another decent brand of compound to fill these spots in? A few of these spots, the paper covering on the drywall is kinda messed up for example where a screw and drywall anchor have been removed, is there a good way to fix that up? Should I just take a razor blade and cut the paper covering flush with the wall? Should I cut it so that its like the hole is counter sunk (a tapered surface) and then put the filling compound in there? I don't disagree that getting quality tape to mask things off is a good idea. Whats a good brand of masking tape for the job? Thanks again. I just picked up a few tools, but still need to get brushes and all the real poo poo to start doing this.
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Jun 13, 2021 05:06
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I grab the dap brand color change stuff but most of my walls are plaster. I don't think it matters much. Don't be afraid to knock off what you started and try again. Hit your hole with a vacuum to get all the loose stuff out first and it will stick better. Unless you have a serious problem one tube should be more than enough. Take your time, make sure you get it smushed IN to the hole as well as covering it, and feather it out to blend. That's normally where I say gently caress it, scrape it off flat, and try again if I'm not getting a good adhesion/feather going. You will want to sand it after, there is silica in it so toss on a dust mask and vacuum as you sand. It's not going to kill you but it is cumulative. Hold the hose in one hand and sand with the other for 0 extra cleaning. That sanding is what blends your feathering into the wall. 3m makes the best tape by far that I have used but it is painfully expensive.
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Jun 13, 2021 06:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:If your dryer isn't against an outside wall I'd be very surprised if the vent is anywhere other than the roof. In the light of day, I can almost be certain it's going through the roof. This is a rental, so hopefully I can convince the property management group to hire someone to come clean the dryer vents to minimize the risk to their house.
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Jun 13, 2021 22:43
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Thanks to the goons a few pages ago who replied to my painting questions, it was definitely information I can use. Definitely cut any loose drywall paper - if not, you'll never get joint compound to adhere properly. It can be helpful to sand the area with ~80 grit paper beforehand, if you can't manage to cut all the paper off. There's no real reason to try and taper a hole before fixing it. Plan on doing multiple coats of joint compound, sanding with 120 grit in between. This is a lot less stressful then trying to cover it all in one pass (and joint compound shrinks when it dries). If you're up for doing lots of repairs, play with the lighting in the room. Sometimes a flashlight at around a 30 degree angle to the wall can reveal a lot of issues. Look at the room in different lighting conditions, and you're sure to find a whole lot of things to fix!
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Jun 14, 2021 00:45
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Stack Machine posted:Update: Nice. I don't think I've seen someone use a ridge board before. Are you using the joists as a sort of collar tie to keep the walls from falling out? Also, no double top-plate?
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Jun 14, 2021 14:58
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Nice. I don't think I've seen someone use a ridge board before. Are you using the joists as a sort of collar tie to keep the walls from falling out? Also, no double top-plate? I'm mostly using the ridge board because it seemed easy for amateur construction, i.e. no need for fasteners other than nails. The original shed on this slab had some collar ties high up just nailed in, but I don't know anything about the shear strength of nails so I wanted the ridge board too. And yeah the joists serve 2 functions: providing some "attic" storage space I can stick tools in and hang things from and tying the walls/rafters together for some extra rigidity. The original shed had 2 2x4s for this which seemed fine but I'm going to just place 1 on each (non-eave) rafter and use them to stiffen the walls and rafters. Mostly though this is based on the previous, also amateur-built shed so I wasn't even aware double top plates were a good idea. I hope physics is on my side here since it's an 8x10 foot building with walls of the same design used to hold up roofs with 10x the area, but hopefully I don't regret that attitude 10 years from now.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:27
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Stack Machine posted:I'm mostly using the ridge board because it seemed easy for amateur construction, i.e. no need for fasteners other than nails. The original shed on this slab had some collar ties high up just nailed in, but I don't know anything about the shear strength of nails so I wanted the ridge board too. There may not be a structural issue here, maybe just a terminology issue. Right now I don't see any 'rafter ties' or 'collar ties' which in a building this small will serve similar purposes (prevent spreading and prevent uplift - in a larger roof it's a bit more involved). You could install 'joists' that serve as 'rafter ties' if you fasten them to the roof structure and not the wall structure. Maybe they are already installed (you write as if they are), but I don't see them. Here's a good illustration of these terms: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021240018.pdf
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Jun 14, 2021 16:47
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Tezer posted:There may not be a structural issue here, maybe just a terminology issue. Right now I don't see any 'rafter ties' or 'collar ties' which in a building this small will serve similar purposes (prevent spreading and prevent uplift - in a larger roof it's a bit more involved). You could install 'joists' that serve as 'rafter ties' if you fasten them to the roof structure and not the wall structure. Maybe they are already installed (you write as if they are), but I don't see them. They're not installed yet. The joists are my next step, then the frame's finished and it's on to sheathing. This is a rebuild of a shed that used 1x4s near the apex as collar ties. I'm using 2x4 ceiling joists to stand in for those and provide some evenly-spaced members just above head level for storage.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:58
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Stack Machine posted:Update: I'm not an expert on shed framing, so this is just a question - should there be a full unaltered stud sistered up against the notched one on the window frame?
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Jun 14, 2021 17:36
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