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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Are your joists the things that look like wonky 1x6's? Because that doesn't look like enough wood, in my unqualified opinion.

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Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

Rand Brittain posted:

Are there any "intelligent" thermostats that can make decisions and schedule themselves for efficiency and do remote sensors and things like that, that aren't also internet-connected devices?

After my Harmony remotes got cancelled, I decided I wasn't going to let anything built into my house depend on software-as-a-service.

Raspberry pi stuff is probably your best bet, ask the home automotation thread.

I fixed joined new ends to my cat6 cables and confirmed with the tester that everything was good. It is!

I then on a whim checked the patch cable I had been using to link the tester to the sockets.... Broken. gently caress

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Motronic posted:

Hard to tell from the pictures, but how much overlap do you have on those joists? They don't appear to be properly fastened to each other, that's for sure, but before suggesting anything it's best to have an idea of the span of it as well as how much overlap.

Also, check if the floor above is level. May require some jacking (or even a permanent lally column) to get things in line before you (re)fasten the sistered joists back together.

Edit:

Just lol that my thread/PO is infecting other threads now.

They are 16' long with 4'-4" of overlap.

Put a level on top of this seam:


and it is a bit off, but I don't know how much is an issue:



Parallel to the joists was dead center.

Also it's nice to have a name to curse finding things.

cakesmith handyman posted:

Are your joists the things that look like wonky 1x6's? Because that doesn't look like enough wood, in my unqualified opinion.

I'll blame the camera work and perspective. The joists are 2x10.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

That's a decent amount of overlap. Shouldn't be an issue to fix this properly.

On the level part, I'd be more concerned about checking the level of the floor above. Yes, it SHOULD follow what's down there, but well..... just make sure it's level enough to be what you want.

If everything is level enough, and since we don't know if any construction adhesive was used, and because the ends are warped this probably comes down to three carriage bolts (in a vertical line) a few inches in from each end and anywhere else these needs to be pulled together. Anywhere that they are together should be three 16d nails every 16".

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

What are good high end fridges? I'm remodeling my kitchen. I had planned to keep my old cheap fridge until it died and then get a good one, but my contractor says that if I'm going to get a high end fridge I may as well do it now and match the cabinets to it rather than guessing and fitting it in with trim later.

Right now I have a Samsung, which works fine but they have a reputation for seizing compressors and having no available replacement parts. Also it sticks way out past the counter depth. My contractor said the more expensive fridges give you the same cubic feet with less depth, so they fit flush with the cabinets.

I know sub zero is one of the brands, what else is out there? What's worth getting and long lasting?

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

Sous Videodrome posted:

I know sub zero is one of the brands, what else is out there? What's worth getting and long lasting?

Consider the dealer support in your area as part of your decision-making.

I mostly specify SubZero, here is another high-end option:
https://home.liebherr.com/en/usa/ncsa/home/homepage-ncsa.html

CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

These are pretty cool

https://cornerfridge.com/product/the-corner-fridge/

It is essentially a catering cold room at that point though.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

CancerCakes posted:

These are pretty cool

https://cornerfridge.com/product/the-corner-fridge/

It is essentially a catering cold room at that point though.

“equivalent capacity of five standard fridges! (or approximately twice the capacity of American style refrigerators)”

heh

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Our new house has a Fisher & Paykel counter-depth fridge, E552B. It seems very good so far and I'm a big fan of the counter-depth thing, we aren't losing poo poo in the back of it.

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Motronic posted:

That's a decent amount of overlap. Shouldn't be an issue to fix this properly.

On the level part, I'd be more concerned about checking the level of the floor above. Yes, it SHOULD follow what's down there, but well..... just make sure it's level enough to be what you want.

If everything is level enough, and since we don't know if any construction adhesive was used, and because the ends are warped this probably comes down to three carriage bolts (in a vertical line) a few inches in from each end and anywhere else these needs to be pulled together. Anywhere that they are together should be three 16d nails every 16".

:tipshat:

The level in the picture is sitting on the floor above those joists, it's just unfinished. We did a lot of demo upstairs before realizing how bad the basement was, so now we live in a very unfinished house.

There are maybe a half dozen overlapping joists like that. The one I took the picture of is furthest from the exterior wall and has the biggest gap, and the closer to the wall they are the smaller the gaps get. I'll plan to do the carriage bolts on all of them just to pull those together, too. I can't tell from any of the pictures I took, but from memory I don't think it's anywhere near 3 nails every 16", either.

captain chauncey
May 6, 2009

You eat pieces of shit for breakfast?

Sous Videodrome posted:

What are good high end fridges?

I’d start by figuring whether you want a high end free standing counter depth or to go built in. Then, if you decide built in you have “traditional” built in (still kind of looks like a fridge with a grille above and less hidden looks, more often stainless steel than matching your cabinets) vs fully integrated.

For counter depth you have many of the same brand options as a regular fridge. For built in, in addition to subzero, you could consider Kitchen Aid. For fully integrated, I would also consider Liebherr or Miele but they are relatively more rare (if you are in the US) than Subzero, so would look into the install/repair network in your particular area.

My place came with a Subzero installed from the PO and I cannot knock it other than the ice maker which is terrible across most manufacturers, but I also plan to keep it tuned up and knock on wood it keeps ticking, because I would hate to have to pay what it takes to replace the drat thing.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I borrowed my neighbor's drill to put in some anchors in the ceiling for a new ceiling light. Drilled the holes, hammered in the anchors, but the screws ended up pushing the anchors up so high that I can't get to them anymore :smith:

edit: are you supposed to a drill a total length into the wall that is slightly less than the anchor length?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 27, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Blowjob Overtime posted:

:tipshat:

The level in the picture is sitting on the floor above those joists, it's just unfinished. We did a lot of demo upstairs before realizing how bad the basement was, so now we live in a very unfinished house.

There are maybe a half dozen overlapping joists like that. The one I took the picture of is furthest from the exterior wall and has the biggest gap, and the closer to the wall they are the smaller the gaps get. I'll plan to do the carriage bolts on all of them just to pull those together, too. I can't tell from any of the pictures I took, but from memory I don't think it's anywhere near 3 nails every 16", either.

Okay, cool. Add nails as required, and for the amount of pulling you need to do (at least on that horrid one in the first pic) I'd suggest a fender washers on the nut side of the carriage bolt rather than just regular sized washers. Tighten evenly across the three at you go. If they're not touching more than 16" in from the end start with this procedure wherever you need to in the middle of the overlap and repeat every 16" as you draw everything together towards the end.

And throw a nail in next to each bolt when you're done for good measure. There is some lively debate on whether carriage bolts are appropriate in shear load, but 16D mails sure are for that purpose and they're very cheap so just go belt and suspenders.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jun 27, 2021

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

I borrowed my neighbor's drill to put in some anchors in the ceiling for a new ceiling light. Drilled the holes, hammered in the anchors, but the screws ended up pushing the anchors up so high that I can't get to them anymore :smith:

edit: are you supposed to a drill a total length into the wall that is slightly less than the anchor length?
What material is the ceiling (drywall I believe based on your other posts, but is it on joists or applied straight to concrete?), are you sure the anchors are intended for that material (pictures would help), and are you sure you drilled the correct diameter hole per the anchors' instructions? They generally have a lip on them which would prevent them from sinking all the way into your ceiling unless you really go for it while hammering them in or drilled too large a hole.

Oh, and are you using screws that came with the anchors?

majestic12
Sep 2, 2003

Pete likes coffee
So our stairs creak and pop like god drat gunshots and its waking my kids up and then they're mad at me and this can not stand. I've read a bit about how to fix them more securely, like this and this and this. I've never messed with floor or stair structure, but it sounds like the right way to start is screw the tread down into the riser below as a start, and if that doesn't fix it then do the nails at 45 degrees business into the stringers on the side. The stairs up from the main floor are drywalled on the underside so we don't have access from below, but I have a picture of the bottom of the basement stairs which I assume are the same vintage (mid-late 1930s). The pictures are here: https://imgur.com/a/yVToTY9, please keep in mind the bag of kid clothes is structural.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Getting an infant and a toddler to sleep at the same time is hard enough without waking them both up if one needs something.

majestic12 fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 27, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Slugworth posted:

What material is the ceiling (drywall I believe based on your other posts, but is it on joists or applied straight to concrete?), are you sure the anchors are intended for that material (pictures would help), and are you sure you drilled the correct diameter hole per the anchors' instructions? They generally have a lip on them which would prevent them from sinking all the way into your ceiling unless you really go for it while hammering them in or drilled too large a hole.

Oh, and are you using screws that came with the anchors?

yes drywall (not sure about the joists vs. concrete question), yes these are the anchors and screws that came with the light fixture. My neighbor lent me his drill which had a 1/4" drill bit attached. Basically after drilling the holes, I was able to place the anchors about 1/2 way in, and then I used a hammer to lightly pound them the rest of the way. I'm guessing I put them in a bit too far.

these are the instructions I'm following

https://www.quoizel.com/media/catalog/product/attachments/instruction_sheet/IS-OST1615EK.pdf

I made sure to use the screw with the more pointy end, as opposed to the ones with the flatter ends that I used to attach the backplate to the outlet box

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

yes drywall (not sure about the joists vs. concrete question), yes these are the anchors and screws that came with the light fixture. My neighbor lent me his drill which had a 1/4" drill bit attached. Basically after drilling the holes, I was able to place the anchors about 1/2 way in, and then I used a hammer to lightly pound them the rest of the way. I'm guessing I put them in a bit too far.

these are the instructions I'm following

https://www.quoizel.com/media/catalog/product/attachments/instruction_sheet/IS-OST1615EK.pdf

I made sure to use the screw with the more pointy end, as opposed to the ones with the flatter ends that I used to attach the backplate to the outlet box
As to the concrete vs joists question - When you were drilling, did you meet resistance the entire depth of the drilling, or did you go about half an inch and then hit a void?

You honestly shouldn't have been able to hammer them in too far if they were halfway decent anchors. Like I said, there should be a lip to keep them from slipping into the ceiling. You used the right size bit, right technique, and right screws - I wouldn't be blaming the user on this one. If the anchors have vanished into the void, grab some replacements of a different type (there are tons of options, I personally like toggle bolts), rotate your fixture 90 degrees, and try again. If rotation isn't an option, make sure to get slightly larger anchors, while still ensuring the screws they come with will fit through your plate.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Slugworth posted:

As to the concrete vs joists question - When you were drilling, did you meet resistance the entire depth of the drilling, or did you go about half an inch and then hit a void?

You honestly shouldn't have been able to hammer them in too far if they were halfway decent anchors. Like I said, there should be a lip to keep them from slipping into the ceiling. You used the right size bit, right technique, and right screws - I wouldn't be blaming the user on this one. If the anchors have vanished into the void, grab some replacements of a different type (there are tons of options, I personally like toggle bolts), rotate your fixture 90 degrees, and try again. If rotation isn't an option, make sure to get slightly larger anchors, while still ensuring the screws they come with will fit through your plate.

I went somewhere in the 1/2-1 inch range and then hit a void, which is when I immediately stopped. They were just small plastic anchors, definitely the cheapest kind you can get.

I have some anchors like this, but it says "do not use for ceiling applications"

https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Phillips-Flat-Head-Drywall-Anchors-50-Pack-25316/100391938

It looks like toggle anchors are fine for ceilings though so I could try those, I will get ones a bit larger than what I tried like you mentioned

With the anchors linked above, I have noticed that at a certain point, I have a lot of trouble getting the screw completely in. Maybe I need one of those torque screwdrivers?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Jun 27, 2021

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Slugworth posted:

As to the concrete vs joists question - When you were drilling, did you meet resistance the entire depth of the drilling, or did you go about half an inch and then hit a void?

You honestly shouldn't have been able to hammer them in too far if they were halfway decent anchors. Like I said, there should be a lip to keep them from slipping into the ceiling. You used the right size bit, right technique, and right screws - I wouldn't be blaming the user on this one. If the anchors have vanished into the void, grab some replacements of a different type (there are tons of options, I personally like toggle bolts), rotate your fixture 90 degrees, and try again. If rotation isn't an option, make sure to get slightly larger anchors, while still ensuring the screws they come with will fit through your plate.

Step 1 when installing any fixture that comes with it's own drywall anchors is to throw them away and use ones you bought from the store instead. The ones that come with fixtures are universally garbage.

I'm a fan of these but ignore the "no predrilling part".. they go in way easier if you drill a hole (and you can ensure you actually center it properly)

In your case though, you might want something like this instead. I don't know how well the one I mentioned before will work on the ceiling.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

This video is related to the current discussion, and is good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


triple grip are the best drywall anchors

fight me

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

btw this light fixture is only five pounds lol

but as someone else mentioned, you still need the anchors for stability since the mounting plate is 15" wide

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."
Speaking on anchors, can anyone recommend anything good for hollow core doors?
Difficulty: hat hook with two very close together screws.
gently caress I hate these doors but I also don't want to pay for proper doors yet.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
Glue a piece of 1/4" plywood to it. Stain the plywood or paint it to look nice. Screw the hat hook into the plywood.

Alternately: Drill a hole into the door. fill part of it with spray foam. Maybe that'll give the screws enough to bite into.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

Sous Videodrome posted:

What are good high end fridges?...

From our search sub zero is basically THE high end brand from a performance and support perspective and maybe the only that keeps a ready stock of parts for 10 years they also have wider options beyond 36" so you can stay counter depth but not lose capacity. LG had the compressor failures, Samsung had ice machine failures, and I'm sure the others have something, too, so if you're not ready to go tens of thousands of dollars, I think the other brands are going to do you basically the same.

We ended up going with GE Cafe since it's 'only' 3k but also because it has the ice maker sealed inside the door so you don't lose shelf space, and the ice maker doesn't sit in the fridge and depend on a rubber door seal to keep it separate from the refrigerated air which I think is what causes a lot of problems.

We actually have a consumer reports account and there really wasn't a clear winner amongst all the 'normal' brands.

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jun 27, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

PageMaster posted:

From our search sub zero is basically the high end brand from a performance and support perspective and maybe the only that keeps a ready stock of parts for 10 years they also have wider options so you can stay counter depth but not lose capacity. LG had the compressor failures, Samsung had ice machine failures, and I'm sure the others have something, too. If you're not ready to go tens of thousands of dollars, I think the other brands are going to do you basically the same.

We ended up going with GE Cafe since it's 'only' 3k-4k, but also because it has the ice maker sealed inside the door so you don't lose shelf space, and the ice maker doesn't sit in the fridge and depend on a rubber door seal to keep it separate from the refrigerated air.

We actually have a consumer reports account and there really want a clear winner amongst all the 'normal' brands.

is GE Cafe any better than regular GE or is it more of an appearance thing?

Since you have consumer reports, would you be kind enough to let me know if they reviewed either of these?

Samsung #RF18A5101xx ($1348)
Frigidaire ##FFBN1721TV ($1079)

there are only like six 33" fridges under 30" deep and those are the most affordable two. some of the others are brands I've never heard of, like Haier and Forno

there's a GE and a GE Cafe one that are 1800 and like 2300

The other nice think about those first two is that the handle is built-in

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
More a design/practicality question: we pulled out old giant carpet and put in LVP which is nice but now results in a half inch height difference to the tile bathroom flooring. Raising the LVP affects doors, so I'm wondering are there any creative threshold options for something this drastic?

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

actionjackson posted:

is GE Cafe any better than regular GE or is it more of an appearance thing?

Since you have consumer reports, would you be kind enough to let me know if they reviewed either of these?

Samsung #RF18A5101xx ($1348)
Frigidaire ##FFBN1721TV ($1079)
Cafe is GEs luxury brand over the Profile series. Main difference is just the rounded handles, led backlight inside, and a hot water dispenser.

No match to the Samsung but I looked at a couple others like the Samsung 4 door flex zone and french doors and most seem to have good temp performance, but very low predicted reliability and owner satisfaction.

The whirlpool is on there; I don't want to turn this thread into consumer report posts or smuggling screenshots until the end of time but for just this first one here's the condensed:




For what it's worth, CR's recommended list is almost entirely LG models with two Dacor fridges.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

thanks, is that last image from the specific Frigidaire model I asked about? That brand does seem to be one of the better ones. Unfortunately LG doesn't make any 33" counter depth fridges.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

nm posted:

Speaking on anchors, can anyone recommend anything good for hollow core doors?
Difficulty: hat hook with two very close together screws.
gently caress I hate these doors but I also don't want to pay for proper doors yet.

3m command strips. If that isn't enough the decorative wood piece glued on to give you some purchase.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Deviant posted:

triple grip are the best drywall anchors

fight me

I won't fight you, but I'll invite you to hang something you like that is heavy but breakable on Triple Grips versus Snap Toggles.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M

good drywall anchor video

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
My garage had a precarious stair situation because of a PO pouring a higher slab of concrete but not adding another step down to ground level. My girlfriend also complained about me keeping all of the scrap wood from house projects.

So I solved both issues and made some better stairs for the garage out of scrap wood!


It was my first time trying to do 45 degree boards like that for the top. Turned out good enough but I definitely have ideas on how to do it better for the next time I need to.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I would've tried to install them all proud and then cut them all straight in-place with a circular saw. As it is, it looks pretty good! Some trim or nosing might finish the edges off a bit cleaner.

What I'm learning is that all of the lovely looking craftsmanship is to be hidden with trims and mouldings.

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

mutata posted:

I would've tried to install them all proud and then cut them all straight in-place with a circular saw. As it is, it looks pretty good! Some trim or nosing might finish the edges off a bit cleaner.

What I'm learning is that all of the lovely looking craftsmanship is to be hidden with trims and mouldings.

Yes. Straight lines, plumb walls and 90 degree angles are mere illusions and are never actually present in a house.

papa horny michael
Aug 18, 2009

by Pragmatica
alright well god i bought a friggin house. thanks for the well thought replies to my last post about last-minute issues with the sale.

it's been a killer week.

now to figure out if i shouldn't have removed this asbestos embedded clay pipe myself...

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

papa horny michael posted:

alright well god i bought a friggin house. thanks for the well thought replies to my last post about last-minute issues with the sale.

it's been a killer week.

now to figure out if i shouldn't have removed this asbestos embedded clay pipe myself...

:toot: also you shouldn't.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Hawk I finally have a new kitchen light installed, only took a month :p

omg it's not perfectly level ahhhhhhh (I can see why circular fixtures would have an advantage over square here!)

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Ball Tazeman
Feb 2, 2010

Groundhog came back lol

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