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Motronic posted:I've never had to mess with mine, but FYI zeolite is their special sauce that makes the thing dry so well....they got that from the other hig end dishwasher brand they bought (Miele?) and it's been making it's way down the model lineup.....was on ly in the benchmark, now in the 800s. It's some sort of heat sink as far as I remember from the marketing materials. I didn't realize it wasn't entirely passive, but based on the photos from that part number it obviously isn't. I've been through a full cycle and it didn't leak again. I don't have a problem with replacing parts, but I do have a problem with such a ridiculously poor design in a $1000 dishwasher... a design that wouldn't cost anything to make virtually leak-proof, but instead has a nut not even finger tight at the bottom of a tub that is continuously wet. And I'm fully unimpressed with Bosch's condensation-based drying that leaves plastic containers wet. In general, I'm fully unimpressed with the Bosch dishwasher, double wall oven, refrigerator, and cooktop. I bought the stuff based on reputation, but have found it's barely better than GE-grade.
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Jul 24, 2021 16:42
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EVERYWHERE 
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I don't know anything about Bosch warranties, googling I see they're only 1 year which sucks. Maybe you could give them a call and see if they'll help you out despite being over 1 year.
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Jul 24, 2021 16:44
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meatpimp posted:And I'm fully unimpressed with Bosch's condensation-based drying that leaves plastic containers wet. Mine is the series above that, but I rarely have that problem. Out of any "euro style" (no heat coil in the bottom) this has been by far the best I've used. Not sure why you're having an issue like that. As to the rest of the appliances......yeah, I wouldn't buy anything other than their dishwashers. There are much better brands/choices, all of which want to buy the full kitchen of their stuff and they give you one piece, usually the dishwasher, for free. It's not worth it.
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Jul 24, 2021 17:11
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I'm gonna give my house a bath today. Is there a goon favorite hose-end house wash thing or are they all about the same?
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Jul 24, 2021 17:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'm gonna give my house a bath today. Is there a goon favorite hose-end house wash thing or are they all about the same? I just use a cheap hazard fraught pressure washer.
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Jul 24, 2021 17:45
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BonoMan posted:Found it. In the master bath and was totally covered by my wife's jewelry lol (her necklaces were hanging above it on a hanger and totally obscured the outlet.) All good now thanks! Nice!
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Jul 24, 2021 17:51
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I found a forum posting with the exact same issue posted within the past week: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/zeolite-container-seal-leaking-water-on-bosch-800-shp878zd5n.85602/ From the picture, the OP there has a unit made within weeks of mine. Makes me wonder if there was a manufacturing defect in the assembly at that time. Edit: Rereading the post above, OP said his ring nut was cracked. I took another look at mine and... yep... it's cracked. That explains everything. I've superglued the crack in my original part and I'll put it back on later. I'm sure it'll work fine, but I also ordered a replacement. Garbage failure on an expensive piece.  Edit2: Looks like the part has been superceded with a metal nut. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 17:51
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H110Hawk posted:I just use a cheap hazard fraught pressure washer.
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Jul 24, 2021 17:57
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Full the pressure washer with paint bish bash bosh both jobs simultaneously no I won't be taking questions.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I really need to repaint but Not Yet and I am worried a pressure washer would knock a bunch of sort of loose paint off. I just want to get rid of some of the mold and algae and stuff and make my house look slightly less decrepit. When I was at Bob Yapp's window class a few weekends ago he was saying that pressure washing paint off of wood was the #1 reason for early paint failures, because it tends to drive moisture into wood and it takes a lot longer than most people think for the wood to dry enough for a good paint job. So I'd be careful and be very gentle if you go with pressure washing.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:32
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I stand way back and use a broad stroke. It's more of a low volume hose. Unrelated I have several window trims that have paint coming up.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:36
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Hey home thread, I'm going to be painting the exterior of my daylight basement. It has repeatedly had some ivy grow up the sides which I removed last year or earlier this year. It's not an area of the house that we look at too often, so I'm not too concerned if it's a little bumpy because we don't get all the plant material off. But if there's a good reason to go farther then I will./ There's some of the stickers left on the wall. My current plan is just to scrape it down with a knife as much as I feel like then go ahead and prime and paint. Is there any reason besides aesthetics to try to get it all off? Is there any reason to pressure wash? 
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Jul 24, 2021 19:12
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Sous Videodrome posted:Hey home thread,
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Jul 24, 2021 19:34
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I noticed a couple months after moving in that when I would lay on the couch , I would catch a waft of…something. It smelled like an old woman’s perfume. I’ve tried forever to try and locate it and just could not, until today I sniffed he actual wall behind the couch. What the hell would that be? I’ve already painted over PO’s paint job, so I really have no idea.
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Jul 24, 2021 20:00
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meatpimp posted:Bosch appliance chat -- I've got a 18 month old 800 series dishwasher that error'd out on an E15, which is water in the tray. Had this on my two year old Siemens with Zeolite. Repair guy came out and said it was a poo poo design of a seal. The solution was to loosen everything from inside (under the filter mesh) and add another gasket that makes a better seal. Took maybe 10 minutes. Said he does this repair day in and day out. Tightening everything up can help for a bit but sooner or later you need the proper fix.
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Jul 24, 2021 20:47
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Ball Tazeman posted:I noticed a couple months after moving in that when I would lay on the couch , I would catch a waft of…something. It smelled like an old woman’s perfume. I’ve tried forever to try and locate it and just could not, until today I sniffed he actual wall behind the couch. What the hell would that be? I’ve already painted over PO’s paint job, so I really have no idea.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:22
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i like nice words
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Ball Tazeman posted:I noticed a couple months after moving in that when I would lay on the couch , I would catch a waft of…something. It smelled like an old woman’s perfume. I’ve tried forever to try and locate it and just could not, until today I sniffed he actual wall behind the couch. What the hell would that be? I’ve already painted over PO’s paint job, so I really have no idea. If the wall smells like perfume probably the PO also had a couch there and used a perfumed hair product. They leaned back against the wall when sitting on the couch and the scent got into the drywall over time. If your paintjob didn't involve a paint or primer that blocks the scent, then you'd still smell it.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:22
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Vim Fuego posted:If the wall smells like perfume probably the PO also had a couch there and used a perfumed hair product. They leaned back against the wall when sitting on the couch and the scent got into the drywall over time. If your paintjob didn't involve a paint or primer that blocks the scent, then you'd still smell it. I like this answer better than the previous one. And no, I used a pretty middle of the road paint that probably wouldn’t. I also know that that is where the previous couch was.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:27
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Had this on my two year old Siemens with Zeolite. Repair guy came out and said it was a poo poo design of a seal. The solution was to loosen everything from inside (under the filter mesh) and add another gasket that makes a better seal. Took maybe 10 minutes. Said he does this repair day in and day out. Tightening everything up can help for a bit but sooner or later you need the proper fix. Good to know, thanks. I had an email contact at BSH (Bosch US), so I fired off a nastygram about the issue. From what I've seen, I am pretty sure they know it's an issue, so hopefully I'll get it covered properly by the factory instead of having to do it myself.
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Jul 24, 2021 22:36
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Our front porch, which we're nicening up in order to put on the market next week, had some pretty hefty mildewing in the white paint going on. We tried our own bleach solutions and nothing really worked. So we got some 30 Second Outdoor Cleaner from lowe's and goddamn that poo poo is magic. Basically just heavier bleach and some "proprietary products" but drat if years of buildup didn't just come right off.
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Jul 24, 2021 23:41
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BonoMan posted:Our front porch, which we're nicening up in order to put on the market next week, had some pretty hefty mildewing in the white paint going on. We tried our own bleach solutions and nothing really worked. So we got some 30 Second Outdoor Cleaner from lowe's and goddamn that poo poo is magic. Basically just heavier bleach and some "proprietary products" but drat if years of buildup didn't just come right off. Bleach and trisodium phosphate always works for me. From the MSDS, that cleaner looks like bleach and sodium hydroxide, which I've also used to good effect. Honestly, cleaning the house with bleach in a hose-end chemical sprayer is one of my favorite tasks. It makes vinyl siding, sidewalks, roof shingles, and gutters look brand new. Low-effort, and the results are always amazingly awesome. I restored a badly discolored concrete sidewalk to new by multiple applications of full-strength bleach on a sunny day.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:23
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We are looking at buying a house, and the preinspection report found a slope in one of the bedrooms of 2" per 6'. From what I read, that's a huge slope. What could this mean in terms of structural stability if the other rooms are level? Is the floor in that room just warped or is the house probably structurally unstable and shouldn't be inhabited. If we actually bought this place the first person we would hire would be a structural engineer to actually assess things. But we're wondering whether it's even worth the effort. Basically, could we live there while the issue is getting fixed?
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Jul 25, 2021 18:49
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QuarkJets posted:We are looking at buying a house, and the preinspection report found a slope in one of the bedrooms of 2" per 6'. From what I read, that's a huge slope. What could this mean in terms of structural stability if the other rooms are level? Is the floor in that room just warped or is the house probably structurally unstable and shouldn't be inhabited. We've gotten these questions in the house buying thread before. AFAIK the only way to get an answer to that is to hire a structural engineer as part of your inspection period. Once closing happens, there is no going back, so what if a structural engineer at that point says the cost would be prohibitive? The only reasonable way to do it is during inspection.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:56
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QuarkJets posted:If we actually bought this place the first person we would hire would be a structural engineer to actually assess things. This is the incorrect order. When you find something like that in an inspection report it means you hire a structural engineer NOW, before your inspection contingency is over.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:56
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QuarkJets posted:We are looking at buying a house, and the preinspection report found a slope in one of the bedrooms of 2" per 6'. From what I read, that's a huge slope. What could this mean in terms of structural stability if the other rooms are level? Is the floor in that room just warped or is the house probably structurally unstable and shouldn't be inhabited. My parents home had a similar slope at one end of the house. They had to jack up the house, put in a new joist and the thing is still sloping a bit because of foundational issues. From what they said it was a pretty big expense and not a pleasant experience. Do with this anecdotal information what you may. 2” is a pretty drat big slope, so I would be wary.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:57
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Motronic posted:This is the incorrect order. When you find something like that in an inspection report it means you hire a structural engineer NOW, before your inspection contingency is over. I'd say the correct order is to run away from that house then work on getting back any money you gave them.
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Jul 25, 2021 19:07
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daslog posted:I'd say the correct order is to run away from that house then work on getting back any money you gave them. This is the way to go. Houses have so many interesting ways to fail, it's not worth buying into something with an already-large failure (unless you buy it at a price that more than makes it worthwhile). In dishwasher results: I ran a load today with the ring nut superglued and a medium finger-tight. Not a drip underneath. I've got a new replacement ring nut on order, so hopefully this will be a cheap and easy fix for a problem that never should have happened.
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Jul 25, 2021 19:43
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daslog posted:I'd say the correct order is to run away from that house then work on getting back any money you gave them. Also a good point. But with inventory as it is, good luck finding anything without major problems if you must buy right now in most markets.
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Jul 25, 2021 19:45
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Motronic posted:Also a good point. But with inventory as it is, good luck finding anything without major problems if you must buy right now in most markets. Off topic, but certainly tangential -- the Forclosure Moratorium hasn't received another extension, and is currently slated to expire on July 31. Latest numbers I saw are that 1 out of 10 mortgages are behind. The current lack of inventory is in a big part due to the lack of turnover with people not paying their notes. That will not last forever, and there's going to be a significant change when forclosures / evictions resume. That said, there's a strong argument to make for renting until market conditions change if you're looking for a long-term house.
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Jul 25, 2021 20:32
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Motronic posted:This is the incorrect order. When you find something like that in an inspection report it means you hire a structural engineer NOW, before your inspection contingency is over. Inspection contingency lol We haven't made an offer yet, but if we did this market does not support any contingencies. So the question is whether we make an offer, and it sounds like the thread is saying no. QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 20:59
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QuarkJets posted:Inspection contingency lol I just saw a house that had a similar issue in one of the bedrooms in the same broad area and am not offering on it. It also had the furnace/water heater in random closets attached to the same bedroom. Needless to say I'm not offering on it, and probably neither should you. I didn't even get to the point of asking for the seller's inspection
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Jul 25, 2021 21:19
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QuarkJets posted:Inspection contingency lol It's a risk. Only you can decide if it's worth it.
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Jul 25, 2021 21:20
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If you have enough money to build a new house on the property after closing go for it.
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Jul 25, 2021 21:27
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daslog posted:It's a risk. Only you can decide if it's worth it. Of course but I'm gathering information to try and make a more informed decision, I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how serious this kind of problem could be.
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Jul 25, 2021 22:01
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QuarkJets posted:Of course but I'm gathering information to try and make a more informed decision, I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how serious this kind of problem could be. We had a family house with a similar issue. Significant slope in one corner. Other parts of the house you could see where the footing was fine. If there was solid ground underneath the house, the repair would have been a few thousand for some digging and a couple jack supports. That wasn't the case, since the soil wasn't firm enough to support jacks and the solution was to dig more and drive anywhere from 6-12 columns into the ground until they hit firm ground. It was a $40k+ job in the early 2000s. We chose to disclose and sold the house as-is. Too many risks. Not only do you have to get the house level, but you have to plan on redoing a lot of the finishing and trim in the house, since everything is going to shift once the foundation is returned to the correct level.
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Jul 25, 2021 22:07
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QuarkJets posted:Of course but I'm gathering information to try and make a more informed decision, I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how serious this kind of problem could be. No advice can be given other than: hire a structural engineer. If the owner won't allow that or you don't have the time before offer then dodge this bullet.
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Jul 25, 2021 22:13
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meatpimp posted:Not only do you have to get the house level, but you have to plan on redoing a lot of the finishing and trim in the house, since everything is going to shift once the foundation is returned to the correct level. Yep, been in too many places where things were redone or "adjusted" over the years because someone was too cheap to throw a couple of lally columns in the basement. Then a simple repair turns into a bunch of finishes that are totally screwed and a bunch of doors that now have an angled cut underneath them.
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Jul 25, 2021 22:15
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Contractors are installing a herringbone tile this week for kitchen backsplash. It hasn’t been grouted yet but everything is up and dry. The topic of finishing pieces didn’t come up and I’m kicking myself for not asking where that comes in the process. They told me they just plan to do a grout line but that will look bad because the top of the herringbone pattern isn’t perfectly even. I just assumed they would put a thin metal finishing piece up and grout to it to make it even but it seems if we wanted them, those pieces were meant to have already gone in? Do we have any options other than grout line at this late stage?
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Jul 25, 2021 22:34
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amethystbliss posted:Contractors are installing a herringbone tile this week for kitchen backsplash. It hasn’t been grouted yet but everything is up and dry. The topic of finishing pieces didn’t come up and I’m kicking myself for not asking where that comes in the process. They told me they just plan to do a grout line but that will look bad because the top of the herringbone pattern isn’t perfectly even. I just assumed they would put a thin metal finishing piece up and grout to it to make it even but it seems if we wanted them, those pieces were meant to have already gone in? Do we have any options other than grout line at this late stage? You're right, the metal edge trim would have to be installed before/during the tile install. For where you're at now, why isn't the pattern even? And allowing some unevenness at the top, it's only visible when you're looking up underneath the cabinets, right? In that case, most times the top edge is almost never visible. If you still see it and can't stand it, you can install a trim piece called a "light rail" that extends the cabinets down an inch or so to obscure that area of the cabinetry where the undercabinet lighting is usually installed. Does that make sense? Also, keep in mind the color/type of grout can make a huge difference in final effect.
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Jul 25, 2021 23:17
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QuarkJets posted:I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how serious this kind of problem could be. You heard about that condo in Miami?
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Jul 25, 2021 23:17
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