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fletcher posted:Trying to figure out how to mount this cord reel on the ceiling. It's got some heft to it. I have no idea what I'm doing. How should I be going about this? Your plan seems reasonable to me. Did the reel come with installation instructions?
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Jul 24, 2021 23:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Your plan seems reasonable to me. Did the reel come with installation instructions? Ok good to hear. Nope unfortunately it didn't come with any instructions or mounting hardware.
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Jul 24, 2021 23:35
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fletcher posted:Trying to figure out how to mount this cord reel on the ceiling. It's got some heft to it. I have no idea what I'm doing. How should I be going about this? Holy gently caress. Are you hanging a cord reel or a gently caress swing? Your idea is good, but its probably a bit over kill. Unless that thing weighs a hundred pounds, you'd be fine screwing it in to the joists with wood screws that are long enough to go through the drywall and in to the wod an inch and a half or so.
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Jul 24, 2021 23:41
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Holy gently caress. Are you hanging a cord reel or a gently caress swing? Hahaha. I think it's about 40 pounds. I am down for a little overkill to make sure it's nice and solid. I should have included this view of the top of it:  I wouldn't be able to hit all 4 holes with the joists, that's why I was thinking I need the extra 2x4s.
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Jul 24, 2021 23:48
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fletcher posted:Hahaha. I think it's about 40 pounds. I am down for a little overkill to make sure it's nice and solid. Ah, got ya now
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Jul 25, 2021 01:15
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Yeah that's a beefy reel. Your plan looks solid, though in your shoes I'd probably mount a sufficiently wide piece of plywood to a single stud, and mount the reel to that wood. I've never had an electric cord reel that mounted to anything more than a single large eyelet. Even my pneumatic hose reel just uses two lag bolts into one stud.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:44
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fletcher posted:Hahaha. I think it's about 40 pounds. I am down for a little overkill to make sure it's nice and solid. Could also rotate it 90 degrees. Put a 2x4 (2x6? not sure of the hole spacing) up on the ceiling mounted perpendicular to 2 studs, and this hangs off that 2x whatever.
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Jul 25, 2021 02:24
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Holy gently caress. Are you hanging a cord reel or a gently caress swing? 12awg shibari with this setup.
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Jul 25, 2021 03:16
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It's up! Thanks again
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Jul 25, 2021 09:23
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I was hoping to salvage a piece of glass from an old desk but I can't tell how these metal bits are attached and the glass is almost completely opaque on the edges.  Any ideas how these are secured or how to remove them without breaking the glass? Thank you all in advance for your time and attention.
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Jul 25, 2021 15:46
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They're epoxied. You can try repeatedly soaking them with acetone and using a razor blade, according to loctite.
Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 16:15
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Tap the corner of the glass with a hammer. I would suggest doing it in a bag.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:40
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fletcher posted:It's up! Thanks again That looks great! As an alternative, I would have sistered the joist on the other side of the outlet box, so that joist was double wide and mounted two screws in each piece. Your way is much stronger and gives better clearance to the outlet though.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:48
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does adjusting how open the hot and cold supply valves affect water pressure for the connected faucet? I still have some noise even with a new faucet, but I don't notice it in other fixtures. I also do know my city has pretty high water pressure. Right now they are completely open. I tried closing them most of the way, and found that it made the high pitched sound go away if they were open just a bit. The water flow was slightly reduced but that's no problem. It's much better than the noise! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 18:29
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I've been debugging an issue with my satellite TV (DirecTV). For the last year an issue has steadily gotten worse: intermittent interruption/dropout of the 4k signal. Started with just audio occasionally, then picture occasionally, now picture & audio almost never come in at all. I already tried swapping out the 4k Genie box but it didn't help at all. I decided maybe there was an issue with the cabling. I was up on the roof checking the connections when I realized that leaning against the metal gutter and holding the coaxial cable connection (just the metal outside, so I believe that's the ground) I feel a current running through my arm into the metal gutter. E.g., the outside/sheath is energized. Is this normal/expected? Or do I have a ground fault somewhere? I'm going to go up with a voltmeter and check how bad it is now, but hopefully someone here knows poo poo about satellite TV cabling. I'll note that there's at least two places in the house where I've got some DirecTV dongle box thing that plugs into an outlet and the coax runs into/through it, so that could be a source of the fault, if there is one. e. uhhh  I'm touching the outer connector sheath of the two satellite cables, just as they exit the satellite. Everything's still connected and I have a TV turned on. These two were originally taped together with these connectors touching metal to metal... Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 20:21
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It's normal for the lnb (the thing pointing towards the dish) to be powered by the set top box at 13 or 18V over the coax cable when it's in use. Generally the set top box will stop powering the lnb when powered off, which is a thing you can test. Other than that I'm not sure what you've got going on up there.
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Jul 25, 2021 20:45
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I've been reading this excellent guide (PDF) and it looks like my issue may be that I'm powering the dish with an PI21R2. The guide says this "should no longer be used" as it provides inadequate power for 4k, and indicates the more modern PI-29Z. quote:POWERING A SWM MULTISWITCH OR LNB I have on the dish a "generation 2" SL3 LNB, with a single (paired) coax wire coming from it. In my office I have a HR54-500 DVR, which the guide says "is capable of" powering a dish, but it looks to me like the installer stuck with the still plugged in PI-21 instead. I wonder if there's a way to switch to the HR-54's power. (The rest of my installation is a single C61K-700 Genie Mini in the living room, which is where my only 4k TV is located; and a DCA2SR-01 ethernet connector in the office. Some of the cabling runs under the house and I'm hoping to avoid crawling around in the crawlspace, but if I have a switch that's probably where it's located.)
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Jul 25, 2021 21:13
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I am trying to install a ductless mini split. I'm still at the beginning steps and have already run into an issue. I put the mounting plate on the wall and measured for the spot to put the hole for the line set. I used a hole saw to drill through in a spot that is roughtly 6 inches away from the stud. Should be fine to get to the outer wall to do what needs to be done there. It turns out that about 2-3 inches into the wall is a beam or something. It appears to be attached to the outer wall but also extends away from the mounting bracket by 4 inches or so. I know well enough not to try to drill a partial hole through this and that I'll have to find a different spot for the line set or perhaps find a way to get through the wall at a different angle. I'm guessing the best thing to do is just patch over this hole and then put the hole on the opposite side of the bracket. My concern is that I will find something similar over there, as well. My stud finder couldn't see this thing because the inside drywall is not attached to it. Any idea what this piece of wood is and whether there are likely to be many more?
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Jul 26, 2021 02:35
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Can you stick your phone in the hole (do not drop it!!!) and take a picture of the mystery beam or something? What is the exterior cladding of the house? Might just be some kind of blocking for something on the outside.
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Jul 26, 2021 02:41
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Siding is some sort of wood: The wood thing is on the right. 
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Jul 26, 2021 02:53
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This might be a really simple question I have a cheap office chair at home (with wheels and the piston type thing) and over time the piston apparently gave out and the chair sank to the floor. The whole thing was on a thin rug, and when the chair became hard to slide around, I assumed for far too long that the wheels were just caught on something and forced it. Long story short, the piston bored through the rug and scratched up the floor. I had to clean up some dust and stuff when I discovered it, and given I'm moving out of this apartment in a few weeks, I'd like to restore/hide as much of the damage as possible. I'm not sure what type of wood it is, but I'd guess something cheap with a synthetic coating. Here are a couple of photos showing the full damage, along with a closeup of the edge of it next to some undamaged flooring.   I'm in Japan, if it helps track down what type of wood it may be or what sort of coatings are typically used in rental apartments. Please help 
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Jul 26, 2021 12:14
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Yellow Yoshi posted:I'm not sure what type of wood it is, but I'd guess something cheap with a synthetic coating. Here are a couple of photos showing the full damage, along with a closeup of the edge of it next to some undamaged flooring. Is that wood or something like vinyl plank? If there is any kind of synthetic coating on top you're never going to restore or hide it if they do any kind of halfassed inspection after you've moved out. I would prepare to pay for that unfortunately. If it's pure wood you could try sanding it, but I don't see any wood grain remaining which leads me to agree with your assessment that it's a manufactured product. Could just be a crappy picture. The good news is they should be able to just replace those 4 planks you damaged. If it is wood with a veneer and not something that clicks together (which given the gap shown is doubtful) it shouldn't be more than a few hours of work plus materials. If it clicks together it might be a whole days work since they need to unclick it from the wall to your damage to replace it. Either way, if it's a bunch of apartments that all look alike they SHOULD have a bunch of boxes of this stuff in storage to fix dumb tenant issues, and it's WELL within the range of a general maintenance person to do this.
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Jul 26, 2021 15:21
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H110Hawk posted:Is that wood or something like vinyl plank? If there is any kind of synthetic coating on top you're never going to restore or hide it if they do any kind of halfassed inspection after you've moved out. I would prepare to pay for that unfortunately. If it's pure wood you could try sanding it, but I don't see any wood grain remaining which leads me to agree with your assessment that it's a manufactured product. Could just be a crappy picture. All makes a lot of sense, many thanks for sharing the wisdom There are 32 identical apartments in this building alone, and browsing the internet leads me to believe that this is a very common type of flooring. I guess I'll just have to be a little more careful next time when it comes to buying desk chairs I wonder what they'll quote me for the repair work 
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Jul 26, 2021 15:27
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At least in the US, you can buy plastic mats that you put down underneath office chairs to keep them from scuffing up the floor like that. The plastic is more durable than rugs for this kind of thing.
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Jul 26, 2021 15:31
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You can also buy rollerblade style wheels for your chairs that are smoother and easier on floors.
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Jul 26, 2021 15:44
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It was the central cylinder that did it, so the plastic mat would hopefully have shown the damage before our goon friend gooned through the floor with it.
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Jul 26, 2021 15:51
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Oh, lol. I misread what happened. Crazy.
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Jul 26, 2021 15:52
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mutata posted:You can also buy rollerblade style wheels for your chairs that are smoother and easier on floors. I have these and they are excellent.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:26
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yeah that's definitely a good idea, though they won't be compatible with all chairs. expensive chairs like the aeron will come with a quiet roll rubber caster also if you do get them make sure they are the same diameter as your current wheels
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Jul 26, 2021 18:42
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Yellow Yoshi posted:I'm in Japan, if it helps track down what type of wood it may be or what sort of coatings are typically used in rental apartments. Since the damage erased the grain pattern, it's probably a composite and not actually 'wood' (depending on your definition of 'wood'). If you're a good artist you could try painting the grain pattern over the damage to match. I have a painter who did that once to hide a drain clean-out cover set into a laminate plank floor, it was very impressive. I know this isn't a real suggestion.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:57
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Is there a reliable way to kill bamboo that doesn't involve digging it up? Our property has one side where running bamboo keeps growing along a fence, and because of what's on the other side of the fence, getting access to all of the bamboo to dig it up is essentially impossible. I've tried Roundup (which did gently caress-all), so I'm wondering if there's some way to kill the bamboo off, since repeatedly cutting/digging out the accessable stuff doesn't seem to do anything to prevent it coming right back.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:29
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Aside from nuking it from orbit: no. Best you can do is discourage it. Get a good machete and keep it sharp.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:55
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Thanks. That's basically what I'd figured out from some googling, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing. Whichever previous homeowner planted the bamboo also put in a bunch of blackberry vines (and completely failed to contain either one), but at least there's a herbicide that kills the stupid stabby rear end in a top hat vines once I cut them back.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:01
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Mix your roundup a little stronger and make sure there are leaves for you to spray it on, not just shoots. It really needs to get on green, growing leaves to work. Adding a surfactant like a squirt of dish soap can help too. It’s going to take many applications, and will probably still only kill the new stuff coming up in your yard, but it might eventually slow down the whole clump. You can supposedly dig a trench 18” deep and put a sheet of corrugated metal roofing or something in it to make a physical barrier the roots won’t go through.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:11
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Doesn't help when there is a fence - but the only control strategy for japanese knotweed and the like that I've found works is mowing it and establishing a yard in that area. Digging it up just spreads it around, herbicides control growth but never seem to eliminate, physical barriers always seem to eventually fail in some way.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:52
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Is this the sort of thing you could just dump a bunch of vinegar down on to the soil and get it really acidic or will the bamboo grow even faster and stronger and strangle you the next time you walk past it?
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Jul 27, 2021 00:10
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Stack Machine posted:[shed] This has some sheathing on it now:  I've been using a palm nailer (dubbed the stigmatamatic) to install it all. It's faster than a hammer at least. I've put some Z flashing on the bottom edge of the plywood because it's very close to the ground in some places and I don't want splashback coating the edge of the plywood every time it rains since that's at least part of how the previous shed failed. The wrap (and the bottom course of siding) will overlap the top edge of the flashing and hopefully keep it dry enough that the flashing doesn't become a little rain gutter. Here it is with the wrap roughly placed on the installed sheathing and a tarp as a roof/cover for the partially-unsheathed wall. I'm hoping this will keep it dry enough if it rains before I get the roof on: 
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Jul 27, 2021 00:55
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I live in a top floor south-facing apartment with two things of note: - pretty lovely low vermiculite ceilings - no insulation whatsoever So we were planning on doing like a false ceiling over the vermiculite so we can have downlights and not a ceiling that moults. But it has also occurred to us, as we have just got our latest electricity bill, hey, can we put some insulation in that false ceiling? We will have about 65mm of height to work with up there. Would that just do absolutely nothing, or would that actually make this place a lot less, uh, outdoors in the middle of the air?
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Jul 27, 2021 08:05
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Is this the sort of thing you could just dump a bunch of vinegar down on to the soil and get it really acidic or will the bamboo grow even faster and stronger and strangle you the next time you walk past it? So far, it's resisted roundup, roundup for vines (which kills blackberries and stuff), having slurry from some concrete I laid dumped on it, 107 degree heat, zero degree temperatures, removal with a chainsaw, pickaxe, hatchet, and shovel, so I'm convinced it's loving immortal. I suspect a lot of the problem is that just behind the fence (maybe 18 inches away) is a county irrigation canal that has water in it most of the summer, so the bamboo basically has an unlimited water and nutrient supply for the hottest part of the year, and unless I want to pull out about 50ft of fence and rent an excavator to dig out that entire strip of my yard, the bamboo probably isn't going anywhere.
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Jul 27, 2021 08:05
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Yellow Yoshi posted:I'm in Japan, if it helps track down what type of wood it may be or what sort of coatings are typically used in rental apartments. Every apartment I have had in Japan used a very soft vinyl with a wood print. I think a lot of the time they replace the floor when you move out. That doesn't mean they wont try to charge you for the damage though. You can probably peel up the damaged area and take it to a hardware store to match it. They usually use a super weak glue to hold the sheets down. I have had heavy furniture peel them off the floor just by moving it wrong.
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Jul 27, 2021 12:22
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