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Waltzing Along posted:Siding is some sort of wood: Looks like furring or stood-off supports for your siding strapping. Just poke around to the left of that, and if there’s another 2 inches of space there, shift your hole to the left a couple inches.
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Jul 27, 2021 12:56
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azflyboy posted:So far, it's resisted roundup, roundup for vines (which kills blackberries and stuff), having slurry from some concrete I laid dumped on it, 107 degree heat, zero degree temperatures, removal with a chainsaw, pickaxe, hatchet, and shovel, so I'm convinced it's loving immortal. I had a nasty bamboo stand, and the way I finally got rid of most of it (there's still some on the neighbor's side sending over shoots, one as far as 10 feet away) was to hire some gardeners who dug the drat stuff up. Every year for a period of years.
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Jul 27, 2021 15:48
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I want to get into making custom apparel as a side gig, but I have no idea where to start learning about the process/equipment. I'd really appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction.
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Jul 27, 2021 16:01
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My Spirit Otter posted:I want to get into making custom apparel as a side gig, but I have no idea where to start learning about the process/equipment. I'd really appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction. Do you mean screen printed shirts?
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Jul 27, 2021 16:03
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Rhyno posted:Do you mean screen printed shirts? Not limited to shirts, but yes, I definitely do mean that.
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Jul 27, 2021 16:04
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My Spirit Otter posted:I want to get into making custom apparel as a side gig, but I have no idea where to start learning about the process/equipment. I'd really appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction. Do you have existing demand that outpaces the ability of the print-on-demand shops on the internet? If not, I would suggest starting there. The hardest part of custom apparel is generally the creative side, not the manufacturing side. "Anyone" can screen print / vinyl iron-on a shirt with a little practice. I don't know of the equipment you would need, but I know that DIY screen printing stuff exists now though I imagine the initial investment is on the order of thousands of dollars for anything worth your time. Probably less than $5k but it's more than a Silhouette and a dozen blades/mats/etc.
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Jul 27, 2021 17:09
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I feel like I'm struggling to properly express what I'm trying to say so this post might be a bit discordant. I wouldn't mind having the ability to make stupid shirts at will, but at the same time, I work on a military base where moto nerds love vinyl stickers of canadian flags and all that poo poo. Plus you have all the units kit shops where they buy customized poo poo all the time and I think a local supplier would be preferable for accountability and wait times. I'm obviously not making any commitments as of yet, and wouldn't expect to quit my job over it. I feel like the potential to make a couple bucks is there and making stupid poo poo does interest me as a hobby. I don't feel like I'm going to try to drop 10k into equipment, but I would like a better understanding of the process and the hot/not list for equipment to see if this is going to be viable or just a big fuckin cash sink.
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Jul 27, 2021 18:02
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My Spirit Otter posted:I feel like I'm struggling to properly express what I'm trying to say so this post might be a bit discordant. If you're looking for low volume vinyl then you can get going well under a grand. My wife does it and cracks out random shirts on demand for me in an evening. It wouldn't be profitable the way she does it - it's a hobby. But people do "profit" off it as a side business where their time is worth $0 or very low. She has a Silhouette Cameo, the premium software package for it, a bunch of cutting blades (autoblades, manual blades), some mats, an iron, towels, and a bunch of different vinyl rolls. The next obvious upgrade which would make her go faster and produce higher quality shirts is a heat press. We've never been willing to pull the trigger for the very low volume she does. This stuff also gets you setup to do like custom decals for water bottles, laptops, that sort of thing. I can find an actual parts list if you want. My work laptop, and a kids shirt:   Silk screening or other "print on the shirt" processes are going to quickly balloon in cost, especially for one-offs. I don't know where the break point is for jumping up, like if a dozen people wanted complicated shirts it's pretty linear time to make them with vinyl once you have the art done. Other processes reduce the time for the "second" item considerably. I am not at all familiar with them other than seeing them screen printing shirts on demand at conferences as a gimmick.
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Jul 27, 2021 19:20
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H110Hawk posted:If you're looking for low volume vinyl then you can get going well under a grand. My wife does it and cracks out random shirts on demand for me in an evening. It wouldn't be profitable the way she does it - it's a hobby. But people do "profit" off it as a side business where their time is worth $0 or very low. She has a Silhouette Cameo, the premium software package for it, a bunch of cutting blades (autoblades, manual blades), some mats, an iron, towels, and a bunch of different vinyl rolls. The next obvious upgrade which would make her go faster and produce higher quality shirts is a heat press. We've never been willing to pull the trigger for the very low volume she does. This stuff also gets you setup to do like custom decals for water bottles, laptops, that sort of thing. I can find an actual parts list if you want. My time is worth nothing and this post has helped. Thank you. Im on reduced data because I went over my limit, so Im asking instead of googling, is the Silhouette software subscription or one off? Also what size did she get? Your pizza-reaper is about as big as I want to go.
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Jul 27, 2021 20:33
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She got this bundle which isn't a thing anymore because it's from 2018 and the Cameo 4 is out now: https://www.amazon.com/Silhouette-Bluetooth-Starter-Bundle-Transfer/dp/B072PRRJZ5/, paid $270 for it. All the promos it comes with are garbage, but the Siser Easyweed is good. Hers is 22.5" wide, but the cutting area is 12" wide. I could see the case for the 15" one, but not the 24" one. That's like a giant banner. A year later I got her the $100 upgrade to Business https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/software-and-download-cards/silhouette-studio - The key feature there is the ability to work with more vector formats and is really what you're going to want if you get serious. Don't bother with the middle tier. If you get a bundle they will generally have everything you need to do a couple of different things like decals, heat transfer, that sort of thing, but you will run out FAST. Especially since you're going to throw away your first few things when you weed the wrong area or cut it wrong, etc. Nothing I'm listing here should be considered a comprehensive list - I just wear the shirts with dumb things on them. Also note the laptop and tshirt picture are around the same size - that is a like 3T toddler shirt. It's like 12"x6". It would be small on a men's adult large shirt. Vectors make scaling trivial, but applying the larger sizes is trickier. And the first time you do a multi-color cut you will screw it up so plan for that. The reason we got this over the way more popular (available in Michael's) Cricut is it is one-and-done for the software, and it doesn't require an internet connection to work. Cricut does all their control through a web portal, so whenever they decide your system doesn't work anymore that's it. gently caress that.  She shops for supplies either at Michael's in a pinch, or https://www.143vinyl.com/ and https://www.swingdesign.com/ if she has time. Generally you're going to find a MUCH broader selection on the websites. You'll figure out which brands/types you like and dislike through trial and error. Manual blades are EXTREMELY cheap but you also have to set your depth of cut yourself. Manuall. Often by eyeballing it. There has been at least 1 cutting mat that now has a pattern cut out of it due to slight miscalculations or selecting the wrong blade. Autoblades are easy but expensive and sometimes still screw up.
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Jul 27, 2021 21:55
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azflyboy posted:So far, it's resisted roundup, roundup for vines (which kills blackberries and stuff), having slurry from some concrete I laid dumped on it, 107 degree heat, zero degree temperatures, removal with a chainsaw, pickaxe, hatchet, and shovel, so I'm convinced it's loving immortal. Hmm. Pour a metric poo poo-ton of salt on it, maybe?
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Jul 28, 2021 00:32
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What would cause the inside of drywall to be almost a soft power? In our laundry room I pushed on the wall and it just broke inward seemed have have a thin layer that was firm but the inside gypsum or wtvr was super powdery?
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Jul 28, 2021 00:41
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H110Hawk posted:She got this bundle which isn't a thing anymore because it's from 2018 and the Cameo 4 is out now: https://www.amazon.com/Silhouette-Bluetooth-Starter-Bundle-Transfer/dp/B072PRRJZ5/, paid $270 for it. All the promos it comes with are garbage, but the Siser Easyweed is good. Hers is 22.5" wide, but the cutting area is 12" wide. I could see the case for the 15" one, but not the 24" one. That's like a giant banner. Thanks, this really helps. Once I found that out about the cricut is what prompted me to ask in here, really. Im really lookin at the cameo now.
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Jul 28, 2021 03:00
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Rakeris posted:What would cause the inside of drywall to be almost a soft power? In our laundry room I pushed on the wall and it just broke inward seemed have have a thin layer that was firm but the inside gypsum or wtvr was super powdery? Looks like a prior repair with a stucco coat over it all.
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Jul 28, 2021 03:22
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I'm trying to drill some holes (8 of them, 3/8" bit, 2-3" deep) in a dense cement slab floor. Apologies if this is a basic question; the google results are not helpful and are usually for concrete, not the dense-as-gently caress floor I'm working with. I've been attempting this with a hammer drill that has a 3-jaw chuck. It's extremely slow going, and I'm finding it hard to keep the bit from getting too hot. The first time I tried this, the bit tip got red hot after going down like 1/8". I've already used an appropriate stud finder to ensure that I'm not drilling through/near any rebar. I'm vacuuming out the dust often (and yes, I'm wearing a respirator) and have also tried adding water to the hole to assist with clearing out the debris. Is a tungsten carbide-tipped masonry drill bit really the best option for dense cement? I'm not even sure if I should be pushing hard on the drill, or if I need to be extremely generous with dunking the tip in water to cool it. Do I just need to go slow and accept that it might take a lot longer than I'd like to do this? I keep seeing warnings about doing this wrong and making the drill bit dull, but I have no clue how to tell if that's happened either. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Jul 28, 2021 06:19
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A hammer drill with 3-jaw is just barely a step up from a standard drill for concrete drilling they basically just have two ribbed plates added into the drill that rub together to make the hammer action it'll work some times, you want moderate pressure and fairly slow speed. Some water wouldn't hurt although if its corded you need to be aware of the hazards that can present. The better option is a roto-hammer which has a mechanism that really focuses on the hammer part to break the concrete the rotation is just to clear the dust. Those would usually have a sds+ or sds-max chuck. There more specialized and if you only need the eight holes and your current setup wont cut it you might want to price out rental options. It'll cost more but if our current setup isn't cutting it it'll be night and day. Edit: Whoops kinda general, to answer your specific questions. Tungsten carbide, yes best bit for you hole size but you're not using the best tool. Pushing hard, no light to moderate pressure. Cooling dunking the tip is ok I guess but if its getting hot enough to sizzle that probably too hot flood cooling is better again taking into account electrical safety. Dullness, you'll probably chip the tungsten before you dull it especially with improper cooling, tungsten is very hard but that brings with it sensitivity to shock. jeremiah johnson fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 08:01
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H110Hawk posted:She got this bundle which isn't a thing anymore because it's from 2018 and the Cameo 4 is out now: https://www.amazon.com/Silhouette-Bluetooth-Starter-Bundle-Transfer/dp/B072PRRJZ5/, paid $270 for it. All the promos it comes with are garbage, but the Siser Easyweed is good. Hers is 22.5" wide, but the cutting area is 12" wide. I could see the case for the 15" one, but not the 24" one. That's like a giant banner. Seconding all of this. I have a cameo for mako my own beer labels mostly because my fiancee likes our beer we give away to have labels. I've saved more than I spent at this point because custom beer labels are .75 each and I make mine for .05 each. I also use it to make silly tshirts and whatever as well. I've done some basic signs for her work, patterns on a few yeti mugs because it was cheaper than having them do it, and other crafty poo poo. There's a learning curve, mostly you're limited to your own creativity and paitence of dealing with it's fiddliness.
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Jul 28, 2021 11:00
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jeremiah johnson posted:A hammer drill with 3-jaw is just barely a step up from a standard drill for concrete drilling they basically just have two ribbed plates added into the drill that rub together to make the hammer action it'll work some times, you want moderate pressure and fairly slow speed. Some water wouldn't hurt although if its corded you need to be aware of the hazards that can present.
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Jul 28, 2021 13:28
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When in doubt, rent a bigger tool
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Jul 28, 2021 14:08
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brugroffil posted:When in doubt, rent a bigger tool How much is Motronic for the weekend these days? 
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Jul 28, 2021 15:24
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Zugzwang posted:That's perfect, thanks! I'll pony up for a roto-hammer rental. You will be amazed. An SDS will drill all 8 holes in less time than it takes your little hammer drill to go like half an inch.
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Jul 28, 2021 17:38
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Zugzwang posted:That's perfect, thanks! I'll pony up for a roto-hammer rental. I had to drill 30+ holes in fiberglass-reinforced concrete slab, each 6”-8” deep. I rented an extremely beefy Hilti and spent something like $75 for a 3/4” concrete bit. Did them all in under an hour.
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Jul 28, 2021 19:34
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Question: my friction fit shower curtain rod fell down again and I really just want one that attaches more permanently. The wall near it is ceramic tile. Should I drill that, anchor a curtain rod into it with screws or toggle bolts and caulk around to keep the wall penetration dry or are there reasonably permanent options that attach with silicone or other adhesive?
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Jul 28, 2021 20:02
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I'm building a small timber framed structure, and one wall is higher than the other (monopitch skillion roof). Should I a) create a single-height wall all around with a flat wall plate and then build another sloping partial level on top, or b) run the studs all the way up to the target height at each point? And if one over the other, why that approach? The joists will be sat on the sloping top of the structure regardless of what approach I take. The height difference is 500mm over 5m (10:1 slope).
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Jul 28, 2021 20:35
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I chose a) when I was building the sunroom off of my garage. 
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Jul 28, 2021 22:53
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How do I find a pop-up drain attached to an old house's downspout? And once I find it, how do I clean out the underground gutter?
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Jul 28, 2021 23:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm building a small timber framed structure, and one wall is higher than the other (monopitch skillion roof). I would run the studs full length on the tall side and the short side that the joists are resting on. Saves a bit of lumber and it's easier and probably stronger. Then on the sides that are angled on top, build walls the same height as the short side and build little mini-angled walls that sit on top of them like PainterofCrap. The only disadvantage I can think of is that you won't be able to tie the corner of the tall wall to the side walls as well with a doubled top plate overlapping the corners, but I don't think that's a huge deal.
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Jul 29, 2021 00:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I would run the studs full length on the tall side and the short side that the joists are resting on. Saves a bit of lumber and it's easier and probably stronger. Then on the sides that are angled on top, build walls the same height as the short side and build little mini-angled walls that sit on top of them like PainterofCrap. Alright. Maybe I'll chuck in an angle bracket at that point to make up for it. Why not full height on the sides?
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Jul 29, 2021 09:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:Alright. Maybe I'll chuck in an angle bracket at that point to make up for it.
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Jul 29, 2021 13:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You certainly could do them full height but it might be a little tricky to get all the angles right. Would that not still be the case for the partial wall?
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Jul 29, 2021 13:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:Would that not still be the case for the partial wall? Yes, but it's a lot less mass to manipulate into place/a tight configuration. I should add that the angled walls I built were not load-bearing. If yours are, you may want to build it out as b), depending on possible shear loads.
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Jul 29, 2021 13:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:Would that not still be the case for the partial wall? If I understand how you're building this thing correctly, those two angled walls aren't really load bearing and to the extent they might be, they'd only be holding up a little bit of roof, not the entire roof.
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Jul 29, 2021 13:58
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That’s correct, yes. Okay so best plan seems to be, build a structure with 3 short sides and one tall side, so the top plates of 3 sides will be joined and level, then build two triangular sections to match for the “gables”, with their own top plates, then joists on top of the whole thing.
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Jul 29, 2021 14:43
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I have a hole in one of my basement walls that i'd like to fill in. What am i looking for? Google leads me to nail hole fillers. Pix of hole  Not metal, gray plaster? 
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Jul 29, 2021 18:27
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Do you want the wires to stay? Just put this over the hole https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-1-Gang-Cable-Access-Brush-White-Single-Midsize-Wall-Plate-Insert/50110872 Cutting the hole bigger and sticking one of these in gives you something to screw onto. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CANTEX-1-Gang-Low-Voltage-Bracket/5001724769
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Jul 29, 2021 18:32
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Note that both of those solutions require all of the cabling to be disconnected at one end, so you can feed it through the hole in the thing. Basically all solutions are some kind of fixture that you fish the wires through. And this is assuming they're all low-voltage wires, it looks like it to me. Something like this might work for your round hole: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Cover-Voltage-Plate-Drywall/dp/B003I7Z5FW
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Jul 29, 2021 18:55
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Ahhh my bad. I don't want the hole at all. Removing the wires, they're for a tv that is moving. I want Hole B Gone
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Jul 29, 2021 18:57
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Oh. You want drywall patch/repair. You can either cut the hole large enough to overlap a stud so you can screw in your patch, or use a patch kit that includes a small piece of furring behind it so the drywall patch has something to stick to, or there's tons of kits that come with various doohickies and gewgaws to accomplish all this. For really small holes you can just fill the hole with drywall patch compound, but that hole is too big for that, you need a piece of actual drywall to patch in. Basically you'll be fitting a piece of drywall into the hole, smearing filler around the edges, sanding it down when it's dry, and then painting.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:11
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See also: California patch. That hole is probably fillable with just a patch kit. It'll come with mesh tape to hold the compound.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:15
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You CAN get little patch kits that are a mesh/adhseive square that you put joint compound over... https://www.thisoldhouse.com/walls/21015080/how-to-fix-a-hole-in-the-wall IMO the right way is to just get a new piece of drywall in there. You can buy 2x2 ft squares at LowesDepot and cut whatever size patch you need form it. You'll also need tape, pre-mixed joint compound, drywall screws, and drywall knifes. You'll also need a piece of wood or something to screw the patch to on the back side. I've been using 1x2 furring strips, but for a hole that small a paint stir stick is probably just fine. If you're going to own a house, patching drywall is probably a good skill to have... especially if you have or plan on kids. Warning: watch a bunch of youtube videos, then be prepared to be disappointed at how bad it turns out. The pros make this WAY too easy... the mechanical part is easy, cutting/installing the patch. Putting tape and joint compound is an art and you'll probably screw it up.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:18
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