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Looks like the wall is textured (orange peel) which can be a pain to try and match. There's the little spray cans of texture you can get a lowes but I've heard mixed reviews on those (never tried it myself). I'd be curious what the thread recommends for that, since this hole isn't HUGE maybe you can get away with texturing it by hand (sponge, paint roll, etc) and not really notice. But it doesn't seem practical to spray it with a hopper gun due to the size (which I've also been tempted to try).
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Jul 29, 2021 19:19
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The spray on can does ok, just don't let it sit for forever before you use it. You can try a thick-nap roller when you paint. My walls seem like they're orange peel textured but it's just paint with a 5/8ths inch roller. Also, what you lack in skill you can make up with lots and lots and lots of sanding before you prime and paint.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:25
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mutata posted:The spray on can does ok, just don't let it sit for forever before you use it. You can try a thick-nap roller when you paint. My walls seem like they're orange peel textured but it's just paint with a 5/8ths inch roller. Also, what you lack in skill you can make up with lots and lots and lots of sanding before you prime and paint. Sand paper and paint make me the drywaller I ain't.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:42
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Are there any functional differences between the Decora rectangular outlets and a standard outlet? We painted the house recently and I'm replacing all the outlets to match and we're looking at getting the Decora style because they look nicer, just wondering if I'm getting anything else out of it. We'll be replacing close to 80 of these things. Also local code says they should all be tamper resistant outlets so I'm going to go that route, anything I should know about that?
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Jul 29, 2021 20:45
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Decora is just a different shape. Tamper-proof costs a few cents extra per outlet which doesn't' matter. Get GFCI outlets even if they're also grounded, because it's an inexpensive improvement in safety. You can put a GFCI outlet as the "first" in a chain of outlets on a circuit and all the outlets further on that circuit are protected, if you want to save a few dollars, but I prefer to just put normal GFCIs everywhere since it's a marginal extra cost and that way you don't have to diagram every circuit in the house.... but I'm not doing 80 of them. Non-GFCI https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-10-Pack-M22-T5325-WMP/100684055 Ten packs are $27 GFCI: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...1-0KW/205996792 Not sure if these are in 10-packs, but they cost a bit more, so probably worth diagraming your circuits so you can do some of these. e. look around because I gotta believe there's a contractor's pack of these somewhere. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 29, 2021 20:56
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I have an appliance with a 2-prong cord and plug and I need to replace its entire cord with a new one (old cord got damaged). But all replacement cords sold in store are only 3-pronged. Can I use the 3-pronged replacement cord to replace a 2-prong cord? I'm guessing the original 2-prong just doesn't have a grounding wire?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 29, 2021 22:28
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melon cat posted:I have an appliance with a 2-prong cord and plug and I need to replace its entire cord with a new one (old cord got damaged). But all replacement cords sold in store are only 3-pronged. Can I use the 3-pronged replacement cord to replace a 2-prong cord? I'm guessing the original 2-prong just doesn't have a grounding wire? Yep. Just clip the ground wire off at the appliance end (usually green or uninsulated in north america) and use the other two.
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Jul 29, 2021 22:40
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FCKGW posted:Are there any functional differences between the Decora rectangular outlets and a standard outlet? We painted the house recently and I'm replacing all the outlets to match and we're looking at getting the Decora style because they look nicer, just wondering if I'm getting anything else out of it. We'll be replacing close to 80 of these things. Decora allows you to use the same face plates for outlets, switches, etc. One face plate for any device. That's the only functional difference. Yeah get the tamper resistant ones. You can get 10 packs. melon cat posted:I have an appliance with a 2-prong cord and plug and I need to replace its entire cord with a new one (old cord got damaged). But all replacement cords sold in store are only 3-pronged. Can I use the 3-pronged replacement cord to replace a 2-prong cord? I'm guessing the original 2-prong just doesn't have a grounding wire? Huh? You can 2 prong cords still. You can always make one if you can't find one.
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Jul 30, 2021 01:11
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melon cat posted:I have an appliance with a 2-prong cord and plug and I need to replace its entire cord with a new one (old cord got damaged). But all replacement cords sold in store are only 3-pronged. Can I use the 3-pronged replacement cord to replace a 2-prong cord? I'm guessing the original 2-prong just doesn't have a grounding wire? Depending on the gauge of the wire; if it's light (14-16-ga) you could always pick up an extension cord & clip off the female end. I've replaced vacuum cleaner cords with 12GA outdoor-rated extension cords.
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Jul 30, 2021 01:35
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Stack Machine posted:Yep. Just clip the ground wire off at the appliance end (usually green or uninsulated in north america) and use the other two. Okay cool. And in doing that will I have to remove the 3rd prong (the ground) on the actual plug itself or can that be left intact? Just wondering if there's any harm in plugging in a three-prong plug when its ground cable is snipped off. kid sinister posted:Huh? You can 2 prong cords still. You can always make one if you can't find one.  and I don't know why but it's much harder to find a 2-pronged replacement cord locally than it is in the US. Even Amazon Canada says "No Longer Available".  PainterofCrap posted:Depending on the gauge of the wire; if it's light (14-16-ga) you could always pick up an extension cord & clip off the female end. melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 02:34
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You can go up (thicker/beefier) but not down. The other thing is, the shorter you make the cord, the less resistance - which is why new toasters & coffee-makers tend to have really short leads - lets the manufacturer get away with using a lighter gauge wire. What kind of appliance?
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Jul 30, 2021 02:57
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A Vornado fan.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 03:13
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Geeks, gamers. I come unto you on bowed knee, humble and willing to learn. I need a smart key lock that 1) can be activated and have new codes added / deleted remotely through Wifi and 2) is built-in with its own door handle. This is apparently because the door it's going onto is made of metal and the locksmith is not certain of his success rate drilling through it for new holes. Ideally 3) it will not need its own hub thing, I can directly link it to home wifi and 4) is battery-powered. Any advice is helpful, including 'you are in the wrong thread.' e: Thanks, all. I vastly prefer 'works' over 'cheap.' Bogart fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 04:01
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Bogart posted:Geeks, gamers. I come unto you on bowed knee, humble and willing to learn. I need a smart key lock that 1) can be activated and have new codes added / deleted remotely through Wifi and 2) is built-in with its own door handle. This is apparently because the door it's going onto is made of metal and the locksmith is not certain of his success rate drilling through it for new holes. Ideally 3) it will not need its own hub thing, I can directly link it to home wifi and 4) is battery-powered. Any advice is helpful, including 'you are in the wrong thread.' https://www.samsungdigitallife.com/shp-dp609/ I believe this has what you want. Double check it can do the wifi app thing when not on the same network. There is a whole line of them so make sure you get the right type. Your locksmith should be able to order anything. Also there are options that are cheap and options that work. For primary ingress I only picked "works." be prepared to pay through the nose. Anything in this line should work. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 04:13
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I think Schlage, Baldwin and most of the other big lock manufacturers make some too. Supposedly they’re all somewhat insecure on the internet side of things, but I don’t know how all that works or if it matters. If someone is trying to break in, hacking a smart lock seems like more work than just breaking a window.
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Jul 30, 2021 04:18
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melon cat posted:Okay cool. And in doing that will I have to remove the 3rd prong (the ground) on the actual plug itself or can that be left intact? Just wondering if there's any harm in plugging in a three-prong plug when its ground cable is snipped off. You can leave the third pin intact with no harm. I'll even say removing it sets a bad precedent because usually your instinct should be to replace the third prong on anything that's clearly meant to have one and missing it. Heavier gague is fine too unless this is an old tube radio*. The thicker the wire the less it heats up for the same load, so thicker wiring is, if anything, safer. * some "all american five" sets used resistive power cords that intentionally dissipated extra power as heat. This is exactly as insane as it sounds and if you have one of these, use a thicker cord and a separate power resistor.
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Jul 30, 2021 04:27
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jeremiah johnson posted:A hammer drill with 3-jaw is just barely a step up from a standard drill for concrete drilling they basically just have two ribbed plates added into the drill that rub together to make the hammer action it'll work some times, you want moderate pressure and fairly slow speed. Some water wouldn't hurt although if its corded you need to be aware of the hazards that can present. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You will be amazed. An SDS will drill all 8 holes in less time than it takes your little hammer drill to go like half an inch. PainterofCrap posted:I had to drill 30+ holes in fiberglass-reinforced concrete slab, each 6”-8” deep. I rented an extremely beefy Hilti and spent something like $75 for a 3/4” concrete bit. Did them all in under an hour. 
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Jul 30, 2021 04:57
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Anyone have experience with getting rid of paper wasps? I'm running into issues where there's a bunch of them in our backyard, and I can't get rid of the fuckers. I've found and destroyed a nest, and put out a trap (which caught quite a few), but they're now hanging out on the branches of a tree near where the nest was (there's not a new nest there), and I can't seem to get rid of them. The canned wasp spray works great for killing off the nests, but it doesn't seem to work as a repellent, and remedies I've seen online that aren't massively toxic (peppermint oil) don't seem to do anything. Is there something out there that serves as a wasp repellent for paper wasps, or am I just stuck repeatedly knocking down nests until they decide to go somewhere else?
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Jul 30, 2021 07:19
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Manager Hoyden posted:How do I find a pop-up drain attached to an old house's downspout? And once I find it, how do I clean out the underground gutter? Just did this yesterday to a drain of mine. I detached it from the gutter downspout and shoved a garden hose on full blast down in there. Walked over to the area about 20' away where I had a pretty idea where it was, saw some water bubbling up from underground, and started digging with a trenching shovel. I eventually uncovered the completely compacted drain pipe about 8" down and then just kept digging all around it. I also dug a nice little trench running deeper downhill and off into the woods right next to the drain exit, and then blasted as much mud out of the pipe as I could. My starting point was this video, and of course you'd get a much more thorough cleaning using a pressure washer setup like they do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NA8QHpMELxQ
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Jul 30, 2021 14:18
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I'm planning to take down some hanging cabinets to open up my kitchen a bit more. I think i posted about it a while ago but I'm really doing it. How do I properly detatch them from this tile grout that was done around them? I want to take them down with minimal damage to the tiles. 
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Jul 30, 2021 19:34
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Chances are they'll just separate from the grout/caulk when you start moving the cabinets a bit. Otherwise you can get a grout removal tool, but then you'll have to regrout/recaulk that area. I'd just give it a try and wiggle that part of the cabinet carefully during demo and see if it would just separate. There's a thin little line of grout touching the cabinets, but a bunch of thinset attaching the tiles to the wall, so that's probably what's gonna win.
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Jul 30, 2021 19:41
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Its probably just silicone, if so, you can take a box cutter or other razor blade and slice along the bottom of the cabinet. If its grout, take a metal punch and just lightly tap it with a hammer and the grout should just crumble.
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Jul 30, 2021 20:18
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Put some painter's tape covering the tile as you pull the cabinet away, so that if one tile comes loose it doesn't fall down and shatter and you can subsequently stick it back in place and repair the grout.
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Jul 30, 2021 20:43
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this is a great idea nd why I follow HCH threads.. I'll have to keep this in my back pocket of poo poo tater knows and will later use when I need it.
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Jul 30, 2021 21:07
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First time home owner here. Two level craftsman. Just moved into this place. The home was built Jan 2021, in the Pacific Northwest. I see several (of what I think are) nail pops in the ceiling on the second floor. They appear about 3 inches away from the wall. They all appear on interior walls, as far as I can tell. And in 4 different rooms. How bad of a signal is this? I have done some research and understand that the nail pops can be a result of incorrectly installed drywall where the drywall is fastened to interior walls (which I guess don't support anything and are subject to shifting). That seems fine and normal I guess. But then as I dig, I learn that the reason for the pops might be because of settling or subsiding. Any advice on how serious and worried I should be about these? There are plenty of guides on how to repair them, but I guess I'm looking for advice on how much I should panic, if at all. edit: apparently my image is upside down, whoops.
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Jul 31, 2021 03:01
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I see a lot of nail pops happen because someone is breaking stucco with a roto hammer just on the other side of a wall from nail pops. It makes me wonder if someone was doing roofing work after the drywall was finished or was redoing work on an exterior wall near that corner. Since this is new construction, document things like this. Look up what your state law provides for with regards to construction defects. Be wary of the builder saying things aren't a big deal when you ask them to fix them. Make sure they fix things completely if you ask for them to fix it via any warranty they offer.
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Jul 31, 2021 03:19
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I'm trying to remove the tensioning system from my bandsaw, because I broke it. Problem is, I seem to have broken it in a way that won't let me remove it. The knob up top, and the rod it turns, are the main thing I need to remove. The rod goes through two locking...washers, I guess?, then the grey bracket that connects it to the bandsaw. Inside of said bracket (visible through the vertical slot under the "adjust tension of blade to scale" text) is a spring and a square nut, which ride inside of a channel in the bracket. The lock washers have set screws in them; one I removed, the other I had to drill out because it was stuck. My problem is that I can't turn the knob more than maybe 1/8th of a turn in either direction. I can turn the two washers, though I can only turn the lower one with the aide of a pair of locking pliers. But I can't turn the knob. I would guess that it's cross-threaded on something. Any advice on how to get this thing taken apart? I've already ordered a replacement for the knob/threaded rod, the two locking washers, and the set screws. So it's no big deal if I end up destroying those in the process of removing them (they're already rather badly cosmetically damaged anyway). I'd prefer if possible to not have to destroy anything else, mostly because that bracket connects to the upper wheel, and I'd rather not touch that assembly if possible.
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Jul 31, 2021 22:43
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I'm enclosing my sump pump in a closet during my renovation. Previously, it was in a closet with a bifold door for access. I never measured it, but every other bifold in this house is 28 inches. I'm feel ambitious and want to build a hidden bookcase door rather than a regular door or ew a bifold. How narrow can I make an access door like that? Obviously it should be big enough to get in there if I ever need to work on the sump pump, but I don't want to go too big. I feel like 24 would be too tight.
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Jul 31, 2021 23:22
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm trying to remove the tensioning system from my bandsaw, because I broke it. Problem is, I seem to have broken it in a way that won't let me remove it. What is the saw model so I can find an exploded parts diagram or something? I would think you could remove the whole tensioning mechanism without having to gently caress with the wheel too much, but idk. E: think I found a more or less correct dwg (14" grizzly deluxe? g0555lx) but it doesn't help much. Have you talked to Grizzly tech support? They are usually decent once you find the bandsaw guy or whoever. e2: found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEYFvOHycoA the guy says it took him half an hour to get the part you're trying to remove out, so you're not alone! Seems like brute force (cheater bar on some vise grips?) might be the only way to go here. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 23:38
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I should've specified the model  It's a G0555 14" bandsaw, and yeah, the part I'm trying to remove is #33. I may well try drilling a hole through the bolt to see if I can get some more leverage on it. I did speak with tech support, but at that point the only discussion was "this part is broke, can you ship me replacements?" because, like an idiot, I hadn't actually tried to take it apart yet. So I may need to call them again. Oh well, the only thing their phone support costs is my time.
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Aug 1, 2021 01:25
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We're in deer country. I realize anything I do is going to be deer deterrence, not deer prevention. Nonetheless, I want to put up a deer fence around my back yard so that I have a sporting chance of growing some non-deer-proof plants. I'm looking at the products made by this company. https://www.deerfencing.com They seem to know what they're doing, and they sell fence posts that are installed by driving a sleeve into the ground and then installing the fence post, rather than by installing concrete. https://www.deerfencing.com/posts-caps-and-sleeves-8ft-finished-height-4-pack I'm planning on talking to a local handyman about what works around here. Does it make sense to just buy and install what the locals use, or does it make sense to order fencing that is made specifically for deer?
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Aug 1, 2021 04:13
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So, all I have for deer BS is when I lived out in the county in IL we had our property rounded with an electric fence using fiberglass poles and had no issues with deer ever, but we also shot any of them we ever saw... Even remotely close, so that may have been a factor as well.
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Aug 1, 2021 04:25
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Why has my toilet starting whistling/singing when it is refilling after a flush, and what do I need to do to make it stop?
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Aug 1, 2021 16:10
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Rakeris posted:So, all I have for deer BS is when I lived out in the county in IL we had our property rounded with an electric fence using fiberglass poles and had no issues with deer ever, but we also shot any of them we ever saw... Even remotely close, so that may have been a factor as well. Flat-out impossible; we're feet from a state park.
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Aug 1, 2021 20:16
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I have a bunch of casement windows with cranks that open them. The cranks have a little tiny set screw that is supposed to hold them in place, but the set screw is for a flat head screwdriver and I can't really tighten them tight enough that the cranks stay in place. Anything I can do to keep from pulling the drat things off every other time I open or close them?
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Aug 2, 2021 05:30
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Get some plumber's dope and wrap it around the post. Eventually you'll get it thick enough that the arm stays on and the screw stays in.
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Aug 2, 2021 12:40
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Pull the set screws, figure out the thread pitch & size, and replace them with hex-head set screws with a dot of threadlocker on them
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Aug 2, 2021 15:12
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PainterofCrap posted:Pull the set screws, figure out the thread pitch & size, and replace them with hex-head set screws with a dot of threadlocker on them I've done this on other things and highly recommend it.
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Aug 2, 2021 16:35
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The teeth inside the handle might be stripped out, too. I've replaced a few of mine and the replacements don't just pull off like the old ones did.
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Aug 2, 2021 17:01
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 Is there a proper name for these anti slip pads cause I couldn't seem to figure out the right term to find them at Home Depot or Amazon.
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Aug 2, 2021 18:09
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