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kid sinister posted:Yes, there's dimmable bulbs. They play nicer with dimmers. Some of the switches have adjustments behind the faceplate for which types of bulbs you use. you ever turn a bathroom light on at 4am? or hung over?
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Aug 12, 2021 18:45
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I got a switch with a built in night-lite, it owns for midnight duces
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Aug 12, 2021 19:02
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kid sinister posted:. Deviant posted:you ever turn a bathroom light on at 4am? or hung over? Yeah seriously. If I wake up in the middle of the night to ram out a poo poo, the last thing I want is bright lights waking me up even more.
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Aug 12, 2021 20:43
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I got a set of plug-in red LED night lights for that problem. They're just bright enough to navigate by but won't wreck your night vision or otherwise try to convince your brain that it's daytime.
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Aug 12, 2021 20:53
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The weatherstripping on my front door is beat to poo poo and falling apart. It looks like it's vinyl with a foam core, and a flap on one side that fits into a groove in the door frame and is held in place with small nails. I checked the big box hardware stores (online, also, Canada) and couldn't find an exact replacement. What's a good alternative? I was thinking self-adhesive bulb seal but if that's a bad idea I'm open to other suggestions.
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Aug 12, 2021 21:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm a bit confused, can it not be brushed off? I don't really mean dust. It's like, pencil marks, sweat smears, one spot the dye on this crappy pair of gloves smeared off a bit...
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Aug 13, 2021 02:54
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Has anyone had this situation with a clothes dryer? It's a strong from a hoodie or maybe shorts caught through a hole and wound tight, although the drum still turns freely.
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Aug 13, 2021 04:59
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My most recent hoodie lasted precisely 0 washings before the dryer pulled out the drawstring.
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Aug 13, 2021 06:11
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FCKGW posted:I got a switch with a built in night-lite, it owns for midnight duces get u one of those rgb gamer lights for your toilet.
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Aug 13, 2021 06:57
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Phy posted:The weatherstripping on my front door is beat to poo poo and falling apart. It looks like it's vinyl with a foam core, and a flap on one side that fits into a groove in the door frame and is held in place with small nails. Like this? The package shows nailing it to the surface, but it’s got the same lip as the factory slot-in stuff.  
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Aug 13, 2021 10:32
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kid sinister posted:Also, who puts a dimmer in a bathroom? Is it to set the mood while you're dropping a deuce? Ime, LEDs -- yes dimmable LEDs, yes with an LED-capable dimmer -- have that kind of nonlinear dimming. Takes a little more playing around with.
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Aug 13, 2021 15:36
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i like nice words
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Phillips Hue is great in the bathroom, especially if you and your partner like to take baths together. Red light special  ne: but it’s expensive and they will probably never lower the price—so know there are other alternatives that may cost less and he just as good or maybe even better.
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Aug 13, 2021 16:19
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I noticed some water coming out from the bottom of an interior wall in my basement. I checked both sides of the wall (one side is a bathroom, the other is a utility room), and there is evidence of water on both sides. So I, a complete layperson, believe there must be some pipes in the wall that are leaking down onto the floor. Tried calling a plumber and got stood up twice. Tried another plumber, and they were booked a couple weeks out. Got discouraged about going the proper route, and I'm considering just busting a hole in the drywall myself. Do I need to know anything? I've never put a hole in drywall before, let alone messed around with pipes inside a wall.
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Aug 13, 2021 20:24
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LargeHadron posted:I noticed some water coming out from the bottom of an interior wall in my basement. I checked both sides of the wall (one side is a bathroom, the other is a utility room), and there is evidence of water on both sides. So I, a complete layperson, believe there must be some pipes in the wall that are leaking down onto the floor. Tried calling a plumber and got stood up twice. Tried another plumber, and they were booked a couple weeks out. Got discouraged about going the proper route, and I'm considering just busting a hole in the drywall myself. Do I need to know anything? I've never put a hole in drywall before, let alone messed around with pipes inside a wall. There's not much specific we could say without seeing the layout of the place. You're aiming to expose likely culprits, so connections/valves. If possible, keep the pieces you cut out to use as patches later. Makes it easy. But generally, take care not to hit any wires or pipes. Go slow if you don't know. Make a tiny hole and work out. Kill the power if you're unsure about it. Figure out where your water shut off is before you start. Also, consider what it is you expect to find, and if you're going to DIY that too. If this all ends with "I wait for a plumber" it might be wise to just wait if you are uncomfortable.
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Aug 13, 2021 20:41
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LargeHadron posted:I noticed some water coming out from the bottom of an interior wall in my basement. I checked both sides of the wall (one side is a bathroom, the other is a utility room), and there is evidence of water on both sides. So I, a complete layperson, believe there must be some pipes in the wall that are leaking down onto the floor. Tried calling a plumber and got stood up twice. Tried another plumber, and they were booked a couple weeks out. Got discouraged about going the proper route, and I'm considering just busting a hole in the drywall myself. Do I need to know anything? I've never put a hole in drywall before, let alone messed around with pipes inside a wall. If you're going to punch the hole make sure you don't hit any studs or fire blocking. If you're going to use tools be gentle and try to cut squares. Do you have an oscillating tool?
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Aug 13, 2021 20:42
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H110Hawk posted:If you're going to punch the hole make sure you don't hit any studs or fire blocking. If you're going to use tools be gentle and try to cut squares. Do you have an oscillating tool? No. I already feel like I'm in over my head. I think I'll just keep trying different plumbers.
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Aug 13, 2021 20:50
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You can also buy a little endoscope that connects to your phone, just drill a small dime-sized hole, and look into the wall that way
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Aug 13, 2021 20:54
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LargeHadron posted:No. I already feel like I'm in over my head. I think I'll just keep trying different plumbers. I meant physically punch, like with your fist. It's that easy. (Have fun at urgent care when you hit a stud and give yourself a boxer fracture.  ) Go buy an oscillating tool from hazard fart or something and make a square cut in the wall. If you screw it up, tape it up with packing tape until a pro gets there. From there you can use the cheap boroscope/endoscope mentioned above to look around. Wear a dust mask. Be prepared to vacuum up far more dust than you ever knew was possible. It's definitely within the realm of anyone with working arms to make an inspection hole in drywall or plaster.
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Aug 13, 2021 22:03
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I need to saw off a chunk of a hex wrench. I don't have any power tools to make the job easier so what kind of hand tool do I need? I already own a small hacksaw. Is there a particular blade I need for this? Should I just buy a dremel?
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Aug 14, 2021 00:29
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The hacksaw should be able to do it. Since the thing you're cutting is so small, it'd probably be easier to hold the saw still and move the piece across it; just be careful of your fingers. If you have a vise, that'd be ideal: clamp the saw upside-down in the vise.
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Aug 14, 2021 00:31
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You can also use vice grips to help hold the tool if it's just a wee bit you're sawing off. If you want an excuse to buy a tool, a death wheel is where it's at. Wear 3m or similar brand name safety goggles/glasses all the time always period, and stand out of plane of the wheel. Do not cut corners on your safety glasses or it will be the last thing you see.
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Aug 14, 2021 01:13
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I need some advice regarding water proofing of a shower, in the last year we've had extensive renovations done of our house including a 2nd storey addition with a couple of bedrooms and an ensuite bathroom. The shower has been tiled from floor to about 30cm away from the ceiling cornice, and today I noticed the top edge of the tiles hasn't been sealed and there's a 2-3mm gap around the top edge (about a 100cm x 140cm area I'm estimating) of the tiles. I'm assuming this is something that 100% should have been done, and want to know if it's sufficient to just do a bead of wet area silicon around the top edge. We have been using the bathroom for about 2 and a half months now, and although the edge is out of the way of any direct water splashing behind it there may have been some condensation that ran behind the tiles. I did see that water proofing was applied to the walls before the tiles were installed, and if it's relevant we live in a warm, humid climate but we've had pretty cool, dry weather recently. My plan is to not use the bathroom for a few days to try to let it dry as much as possible and then seal with a wet area silicon. Does this sound like an okay solution, or would I need to determine if there's any moisture behind the tiles already or something similar? We will also notify the builders of the problem, so that there's a record of it in case there's more issues down the line, but they've been poo poo to deal with and it has taken ages for them to get around to fixing other defects so in this case if it's a simple fix I would rather just do it myself.
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Aug 14, 2021 02:11
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H110Hawk posted:My most recent hoodie lasted precisely 0 washings before the dryer pulled out the drawstring. Yeah it's fully stuck though. Wound tight around the axle, so we could cut it and pretend nothing happened or start taking it apart to get at it. EDIT: Got it, just took some more care and got it out 
clusterfuck fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 04:32
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Anyone have advice for stripping old paint from cedar shake siding and repainting it? My house needs to either be repainted or re-sided, since it looks terrible. The previous owners just glooped brown paint on it with no prep and it's flaking off really badly. I think maybe I just brush on some paint stripper and then hit it with a medium powered pressure washer and then paint over it with some high end exterior oil based.
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Aug 14, 2021 14:07
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If you want to try a chemical stripper I'd recommend Dumond Smart Strip, its environmentally friendly and biodegradable, while still being pretty effective. If there are several layers that need to come off you could try their Peel Away strippers, they have a paper backing you lay over the stripper and peel it off once it's had time to work. Some of the Peel Away versions are pretty gnarly and some require neutralization so do your homework if you want to look into those. Either way, test in on a couple of shingles first to make sure it works well and doesn't damage anything and to see how long you need to let it dwell on the paint. Don't use an oil-based topcoat. Use a good oil primer that's made for exterior cedar, rewood, and other high-tannin woods. It should be a "long oil" which is slower drying than a fast drying oil primer like Kilz and others. Use a good 100% acrylic topcoat, an oil topcoat would be much more prone to mildew and UV degradation if those are potential issues where you live.
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Aug 14, 2021 15:40
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I have a subfloor question that I can't find any guidance on.. We are replacing carpets in our home (we are second owners, house is 1.5 years old) and I am treating the subfloor before the carpet is installed. I noticed that in one of our rooms (the largest room) there is a subfloor sheet basically right in the middle of the room that only has fasteners at the perimeter. There are no fasteners in inside of the board (all the other sheets have fasteners at the perimeter and inside the sheet spaced at the 16" interval and spaced 12" away from each other). Any idea why they didn't install fasteners in the middle of this one sheet? There is nothing special about the room underneath (the subfloor sheet is in our master bedroom on the second floor which is directly above our living room). The subfloor is OSB.
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Aug 14, 2021 17:52
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The room had the sheeting put on the floor at 4:50 on a Friday.
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Aug 14, 2021 18:02
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Somebody bled there and it was bad so they replaced the sheet as quick as possible.
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Aug 14, 2021 19:22
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They ran out. If you install some fasteners yourself, screws are usually more intuitive for homeowners than nails. You want to do your best to get them into the joists below, because a screw/nail that just goes through the subfloor isn't doing anything. Don't use drywall screws. A commonly available and appropriate screw in the United States is the Simpson Strong-Drive WSV subfloor screw. I think it only comes in collated style (built for a special tool). But if you look up the specifications you'll get an idea of what screw you can substitute (want the threading to stop before the head to help 'pull' the subfloor to the joists, want either a square drive or star drive head to reduce install issues, need final head install condition to be flush with the surrounding subfloor, etc.).
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Aug 15, 2021 00:52
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Mahatma-Squid posted:I need some advice regarding water proofing of a shower, in the last year we've had extensive renovations done of our house including a 2nd storey addition with a couple of bedrooms and an ensuite bathroom. The shower has been tiled from floor to about 30cm away from the ceiling cornice, and today I noticed the top edge of the tiles hasn't been sealed and there's a 2-3mm gap around the top edge (about a 100cm x 140cm area I'm estimating) of the tiles. You should make sure to get some of the anti-fungal/mold silicon, but yes - that's exactly what you should do. If you're worried about whether something's already taken hold inside you can spray the gap down with mold/mildew killer first, let that dry and then apply the silicon.
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Aug 15, 2021 01:25
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This is one of the hinges on my apartment's exterior door. I'm having a couch delivered soon that is going to be a little tight. How do I take the door off the hinges?
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Aug 15, 2021 01:50
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Happiness Commando posted:This is one of the hinges on my apartment's exterior door. I'm having a couch delivered soon that is going to be a little tight. How do I take the door off the hinges? You should be able to open the door and just unscrew the entire hinge+door from the doorframe. Getting the door back on afterwards may be a bit of a pain; see if you can prop the door up on something to help hold it at the right height while you tighten the screws.
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Aug 15, 2021 02:06
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floWenoL posted:So I was inspecting the faucet supply lines in the bathroom, and I noticed that they were copper pipes: Elviscat posted:You can, but that malleable copper tubing is superior to any braided (SS over rubber) line and it's pre-bent for your application. So I managed to replace the shutoff valves successfully (thanks guys!), but now I'm replacing the faucet and ran into an unexpected problem with the other side of the copper tubing, which is that the washers seem to need replacing, but I have no clue as to what kind of washer to use. Here's a picture of the two pipes, the nuts, and the washers (there seem to be two for each pipe, but maybe one of each pair came from the old faucet):  Here's one of the old faucet:  There seems to be very little info on YouTube/the internet in general about working with copper tubing for faucet supply lines, so I'm pretty out of my depth here. I got a pair of standard braided steel connectors for now, so it's not an urgent matter, but it would be nice to be able to reuse the copper tubing. Looking at the new faucet and the faucet end of the braided steel connector, I'd guess I'd need some sort of cone washer, and a new nut since the old nut seems to have an old washer pretty well bonded to it -- but I'm not sure if that would work or not, and a cursory search on Home Depot didn't turn up something that was obviously made for this. I guess a real plumber would know what to buy from a plumber supply store... Here are a couple of pics of the new faucet and the faucet end:   Anyone have any pointers to what to buy to get the copper tubing to work with the new faucet? 
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Aug 15, 2021 02:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You should be able to open the door and just unscrew the entire hinge+door from the doorframe. Getting the door back on afterwards may be a bit of a pain; see if you can prop the door up on something to help hold it at the right height while you tighten the screws. That a self closing hinge. If you take it off the jamb it will snap shut pretty quick so watch your fingers. Also it will be nearly impossible to screw back on. Usually the top part can take a hex key that you rotate to remove that pin there and then slowly unwind the tension. There’s seems like a ton of paint on that thing so you make have to scrape the top to get a hex key in there. If that top doesn’t take a hex key I think there’s a special tool you can use.
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Aug 15, 2021 03:40
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Tezer posted:Don't use drywall screws. A commonly available and appropriate screw in the United States is the Simpson Strong-Drive WSV subfloor screw. I think it only comes in collated style (built for a special tool). But if you look up the specifications you'll get an idea of what screw you can substitute (want the threading to stop before the head to help 'pull' the subfloor to the joists, want either a square drive or star drive head to reduce install issues, need final head install condition to be flush with the surrounding subfloor, etc.). I'm partial to these (or one of their similar styles) https://www.wickes.co.uk/Spax-Chipboard-Flooring-Screws---4-5-x-60mm-Pack-of-300/p/140812
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Aug 15, 2021 09:18
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Hey, I've gotta remove permanent marker from some painted metal without loving up the paint. I'm unsure of the exact paint, but I know it's at least semigloss, not matte. Googling around suggests things like acetone, dry erase markers, and I've seen a couple that suggest magic erase sponges and isopropyl alcohol. Do you guys have any advice on what's best to try?
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Aug 15, 2021 16:32
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neogeo0823 posted:Hey, I've gotta remove permanent marker from some painted metal without loving up the paint. I'm unsure of the exact paint, but I know it's at least semigloss, not matte. Googling around suggests things like acetone, dry erase markers, and I've seen a couple that suggest magic erase sponges and isopropyl alcohol. Do you guys have any advice on what's best to try? If it’s just Sharpie marker, it should be pretty easy to get off a non-porous surface. Soap and a scrub sponge might be enough. I’m reasonably sure a melamine “magic eraser” would do it. Soapy water or kitchen spray makes those work better.
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Aug 15, 2021 16:48
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I'd go with alcohol and a paper towel first. Wouldn't go with anything abrasive like a magic eraser on a non matte surface if it's not necessary.
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Aug 15, 2021 16:54
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I'll give soap water a try first, then move to alcohol/acetone on a paper towel, then go with the sponge as a backup. That seems like it should be the most sane way. Full disclosure: This is the sides of a very large multi-stage high pressure air compressor. An install tech was on site last week, and I asked him where the correct spots were to get proper temperature readings, and he took a nearby marker and scrawled on the thing to highlight the spots. This was all fine and good till the site/project lead came by and flipped a poo poo over it. So, my Monday morning will be spent cleaning the black marker off the blue-gray finish, touching up any spots with the little quarter can of paint we have left from install, then putting very precise and pretty spots of black paint in the indicated areas so that we can get accurate temperature readings, and then making and placing labels to indicate which spot is which reading. At least I'm getting paid well to do this.
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Aug 15, 2021 19:33
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Draw over it with a dry erase marker and wipe it clean. Worth a try, it's how you get it off a regular whiteboard.
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Aug 15, 2021 20:36
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