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DrBouvenstein posted:I guess this is the best place to ask. I've had good luck with vodka, just buy the cheapest poo poo at the store and toss it in a spray bottle, not sure why it works but a cleaning lady at an apt complex we lived at years ago recommend it.
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Aug 21, 2021 00:31
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Chances are, she's been peeing there once in a blue moon for awhile. Treat the area. Lay down & secure sheets of aluminum foil over twice the area that she's peeing on. Pull it back to treat the area, but you have to keep her from re-marking the area while you treat it. (most) Cats hate aluminum foil. Also apply a repellent like bitter apple. If possible, put a cat box there, on top of the foil, at least for a while. Change out the litter as frequently as possible to keep the odor down, else you'll have to keep a box there forever. She needs to re-learn that the smell of urine = the feel of litter on her feet ALWAYS. Good luck.
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Aug 21, 2021 03:20
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After moving into my new condo I'm realizing a lot of the outlets and switches are very touchy or will sometimes stop working for a while, at what point does it become worth it to have an electrician come in and handle things instead of just swapping a bunch of them myself? My fear is I'll swap a bunch of them and there will still be some problem that is bigger than just the switch (for example the outlet under the sink, if the disposal is hooked up to the top plug it works fine, if I plug it into the one under that though it will turn the disposal on even if I don't have the switch turned on. They're two plugs on the same outlet so that seems weird? The dishwasher is dead and I'm starting to think it might be because it was kept plugged into that weird one, the seller was impossible to communicate with but had mentioned something about a short in that outlet).
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Aug 21, 2021 15:35
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If you comfortable replacing switches and outlets, go for it. Maybe switch to TR outlets while you’re at it. Wowporn posted:if the disposal is hooked up to the top plug it works fine, if I plug it into the one under that though it will turn the disposal on even if I don't have the switch turned on. They're two plugs on the same outlet so that seems weird? There’s a tab you can break off between the screw terminals on the side of an outlet to feed the top and bottom separately, like if you want one side switched but the other not.
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Aug 21, 2021 16:00
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Wowporn posted:After moving into my new condo I'm realizing a lot of the outlets and switches are very touchy or will sometimes stop working for a while, at what point does it become worth it to have an electrician come in and handle things instead of just swapping a bunch of them myself? Dishwasher outlet: under sink outlets are often a combo of always hot and switched on a 12/3 wire hooked up to a double pole breaker. This let's you power your dishwasher and garbage disposal. I'm assuming you have the right tools and know how here? No contact voltage detector for example. The rest: it depends. How old is this place? If it's new enough to have a modern panel (not federal pacific stablok or Zinsco) it's probably fine. You can absolutely replace the switches and outlets yourself but I would start with one or two of the most problematic ones and make sure that it actually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, it's probably electrician time. Open up a couple and take some pictures. Dollars to donuts its a bunch of backstabbed outlets all failing, and they're chained via the outlets not pigtails. There is a home wiring thread.  if you have either of those panels you should just start with an electrician to replace those immediate fire hazards.
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Aug 21, 2021 16:02
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Good to know about the dishwasher outlet. It's a high rise built in 1986, I don't know much about the electrical stuff but it seems like what you'd expect in a not fancy but not lovely either 80s apartment, the breaker is in the kitchen and there's like 8 switches for the whole unit with the major appliances being on their own thing. I definitely do not have the right equipment, as far as knowledge I've changed out phone jacks and guitar pickups before so I'm not totally clueless but have not done this exact thing before. I guess I'll do some research and start with the switch that's currently the least functional and after I electrocute myself and start a fire I'll hire an electrician
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Aug 21, 2021 16:23
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Wowporn posted:Good to know about the dishwasher outlet. It's a high rise built in 1986, I don't know much about the electrical stuff but it seems like what you'd expect in a not fancy but not lovely either 80s apartment, the breaker is in the kitchen and there's like 8 switches for the whole unit with the major appliances being on their own thing. If you want to learn head to the wiring thread. You will need a non-contact voltage detector (Klein makes a nice one) to even get started. If you find things in need of repair you'll need some more tools but you can absolutely get going for around $50 plus consumables. Do not start opening outlets until you have that tester. If you don't want to get one or just want it done right away call an electrician.
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Aug 21, 2021 16:36
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Good to know, thanks. There's a decent amount of small things that need doing so I will need to assess which ones I can/am willing to do myself I think
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Aug 21, 2021 18:03
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I have a pretty simple coat rack that I'd like to hang on the wall next to my front door. The catch here is that the wall is exposed brick + mortar. What kind of mounts, screws, or other attaching implements should I use here? I have a small pack of something labeled "concrete anchors" that look like heavy-duty screws, which I'm thinking are probably overkill (rated for a 300 lb load, lol) but also thinking that something like those might be my only option?
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Aug 21, 2021 19:23
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C-Euro posted:I have a pretty simple coat rack that I'd like to hang on the wall next to my front door. The catch here is that the wall is exposed brick + mortar. What kind of mounts, screws, or other attaching implements should I use here? I have a small pack of something labeled "concrete anchors" that look like heavy-duty screws, which I'm thinking are probably overkill (rated for a 300 lb load, lol) but also thinking that something like those might be my only option? Just regular screws and some wall plugs will do. Any of these (or your regional equivalent) will be fine for brick: https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/wall-plugs/cat840026
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Aug 21, 2021 19:34
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I made the mistake of using the crappy anchors that came with my new mirror, and they got kind of deformed. So I'm looking for the best alternative. BTW the wall is still in the process of being patched and painted, but I wanted to predrill the holes since my neighbor who had a 3' level and drill was not going to be around when the painting was finished. The mirror is 25 pounds, and the instructions say to put in the anchor, then put in the screw until the end if 1/4" from the wall. Is this the best option? Can I use those holes again? https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Anc...25220/100153998 My only concern is I can't turn the screw until it's flush, because of that 1/4" that needs to stick out - that's what the hangers on back of the mirror will grab onto. I'm not sure if that will compromise the anchors, since the instructions say to turn the screw all the way.
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Aug 21, 2021 20:40
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oops forgot attachment
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Aug 21, 2021 20:44
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I use snap toggles for almost everything that holds real weight now. They take a larger hole than most anchors, but they leave a clean, dressed hole, and they’re reusable because the toggle doesn’t fall into the wall if you unscrew them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/FLIPTOGGLE-3-16-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Bolt-10-Pack-420R/206347667 edit: I like the Toggler brand ones better because they’re easier to manipulate into place, but Home Depot doesn’t sell them. https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-1-4-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183831 eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Aug 21, 2021 |
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Aug 21, 2021 21:46
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eddiewalker posted:I use snap toggles for almost everything that holds real weight now. They take a larger hole than most anchors, but they leave a clean, dressed hole, and they’re reusable because the toggle doesn’t fall into the wall if you unscrew them. oh cool, thanks! if I don't turn the screw in all the way (leaving that 1/4" for the mirror hooks) does that cause any issues? I'm also wondering if using hanging wire would be a good idea https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-50-lbs-9-ft-Durasteel-Stainless-Steel-Hanging-Wire-50114/100032968
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Aug 21, 2021 22:03
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I’m not really sure about leaving them stuck out. How heavy is this mirror? I’ve only used toggle bolts tightened down for things like TVs and IKEA shelves.
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Aug 21, 2021 22:12
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eddiewalker posted:I’m not really sure about leaving them stuck out. How heavy is this mirror? I’ve only used toggle bolts tightened down for things like TVs and IKEA shelves. 25 pounds, but the screw can't fasten in all the way because the hooks have to grab onto them
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Aug 21, 2021 22:23
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Is there a glue I can use to keep my spigot from inching forward during my shower and eventually rocketing into my shins again? Pipe is copper, but the spigot attachment is new and therefore plastic.
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Aug 22, 2021 17:31
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actionjackson posted:25 pounds, but the screw can't fasten in all the way because the hooks have to grab onto them 25 pounds is really nothing for those types of anchors (it's only 12.5lbs per and they're rated for close to 100lbs each) It's fine if the screws are out, just don't extend them more than you need to so the weight is as close to the wall as possible. Christoph posted:Is there a glue I can use to keep my spigot from inching forward during my shower and eventually rocketing into my shins again? There should be a set screw holding that thing on, it shouldn't be moving forward at all. If for some reason there's no screw or it's not working I suggest some clear caulking around where the spigot meets the wall. FCKGW fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 17:51
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Hey DIY goons, any suggestions for a cheap but not garbage bench vise? It doesn't need to be heavy duty or anything. Basic tasks I'm probably going to use it for: 1) holding a piece of wood while I cut it into smaller pieces of wood 2) holding a piece of pipe while I cut it into smaller pieces of pipe 3) holding a random chunk of metal or wood while I drill holes into it / use a chisel to make an inlet / sand it / generally work on it. 4) maybe hold an AR upper while I install a barrel. This is probably the heaviest use case, and that's basically screwing a threaded thing into another threaded thing that's held in the vise to something like 35-40 ftl/lb of torque I doubt I'd need more than a 4 inch opening. That seems to be the standard for "small hobbyist bench vise" just looking around on the internet. 2 inch throat depth seems standard-ish on a 4 inch vise. I figure that's probably plenty. Features I'd like to have: small anvil on the back for general beating poo poo flat purposes, and at least 90 degrees of rotation. It's going to be on the corner of my bench and I'd like to be able to use it off either side. So far my random googling has turned up a bunch of "TOP 15 BENCH VISE NO 1 WILL SURPRISE YOU" type poo poo and I figured I trust goons more than clickbait. The two I'm looking at hard right now are this Yost: https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV4-Hom...ef_=as_li_ss_tl And for a little bit more this Wilton: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...prodtaga8696-20 Walmart also has these WEN vises, which I guess is their house brand: https://www.walmart.com/ip/WEN-4-In...ull&athena=true Then of course Harbor Freight and what I assume is their house brand too: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-swivel-vise-with-anvil-63774.html Any thoughts on any of these? I'm not opposed to spending a few extra bucks if it means getting quality instead of poo poo, but I'd like to not go over $60 or so on this. I really don't think my use case justifies some $200 amazing vise that I'll pass on to my grandkids. I don't see myself needing to do anything too crazy with it so it doesn't need to be able to support my own goony weight suspended from a ten foot breaker bar, but I'm also not going to pretend that I'm smart enough to not try something stupid. Which is all to say I guess I'd prefer not getting something from a company known to have bad castings that will break if you wrench on it hard. edit: I'm kinda leaning towards the Harbor Freight house brand, if only because gently caress Amazon and if it shits the bed 31 days after I buy it I can probably return it. Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 18:03
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Jaded Burnout posted:Just regular screws and some wall plugs will do. Any of these (or your regional equivalent) will be fine for brick: Is there a trick for getting these out of a wall once you've installed them? I was using these to hang something at my last place and when I moved out I completely mangled one trying to take it out of the drywall that it was in. I imagine it's impossible to get them out of brick.
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Aug 22, 2021 20:09
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FCKGW posted:25 pounds is really nothing for those types of anchors (it's only 12.5lbs per and they're rated for close to 100lbs each) thanks for the help on this. I went to the hardware store and got these hillman pull toggle anchors with the strap, similar to what another poster suggested I have read mixed reviews though, so we'll see - it was suggested that I don't actually cut the plastic strap excess off until I've finished putting in the screw
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Aug 22, 2021 20:21
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C-Euro posted:Is there a trick for getting these out of a wall once you've installed them? I was using these to hang something at my last place and when I moved out I completely mangled one trying to take it out of the drywall that it was in. I imagine it's impossible to get them out of brick. Needle nose pliars, usually. But they're pennies each so you can assume it's OK to destroy them when you move out. The brick ones are probably easier to remove since they don't deform to hold on to plasterboard.
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Aug 22, 2021 20:28
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C-Euro posted:Is there a trick for getting these out of a wall once you've installed them? I was using these to hang something at my last place and when I moved out I completely mangled one trying to take it out of the drywall that it was in. I imagine it's impossible to get them out of brick. Honestly just put a philips head screwdriver into them, give em a good thwack and put them through the wall. Patch and touch up the paint on the wall. Something like brick would be easier to get out because that's relying on sidewall pressure to stay in. When it's in drywall it expands behind the drywall, making removal more difficult.
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Aug 22, 2021 21:36
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Cyrano4747 posted:Hey DIY goons, any suggestions for a cheap but not garbage bench vise? It doesn't need to be heavy duty or anything. Basic tasks I'm probably going to use it for: I bought the Wilton in 2013 for ar building, worked fine when bolted to a 2x6. Five years later I bolted it to a workbench, and it's survived first time home ownership fine for cutting wood and drilling and grinding metal. It should be fine for mangling wood, ARs, and SIGs. 
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Aug 23, 2021 00:26
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Alarbus posted:I bought the Wilton in 2013 for ar building, worked fine when bolted to a 2x6. Five years later I bolted it to a workbench, and it's survived first time home ownership fine for cutting wood and drilling and grinding metal. Hah, thanks.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:42
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Cyrano4747 posted:Hey DIY goons, any suggestions for a cheap but not garbage bench vise? It doesn't need to be heavy duty or anything. Basic tasks I'm probably going to use it for: The Wilton, WEN, and HF all look like the exact same casting and likely the same vice from the same factory, so just pick whichever one is the color you like/cheaper.
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Aug 23, 2021 14:10
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PainterofCrap posted:Chances are, she's been peeing there once in a blue moon for awhile. I doubt it, only because good LORD this cat has some of the strongest smelling piss I've ever smelled, so I definitely would have noticed (and the corner is right next to the side of the couch I tend to sit on.) I just think the person we got to check on her and clean/change the litter box did a shite job, and that combined with the stress of us being gone resulted in the pee, but I do believe she peed there multiple times while we were gone, and then she got into the habit of thinking it was a spot to go, and did it one or two more times after we got back and cleaned it the first time. I've had foil covering it for a while, and it does not appear she has gone back there in a week or so, but the smell is STILL THERE. I have checked everywhere else in the living room and that corner is the only spot that smells, so it's not coming from anywhere else. No new wet spots on or under the foil, so it's just the lingering odor from before. I honestly think they only way I'm gong to fully remove it is to remove the pellet stove so I can then lift up the tile thing it sits on to clean under that. I feel like I might even have to try and sand down the top layer, just in case? I tried the vodka mentioned by someone, no dice. I haven't tried the anti-icky-poo spray, but I'll see if I can find some of that today and give it a go...though it looks like according to Arsenic Lupin I might have to buy two different formulations of it and use the P-Bat first?
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Aug 23, 2021 14:17
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I'd like a product recommendation for a sealant/varnish to be used over decals and paint put on wood for an arcade controller. I want it to be durable as hell without having that weirdly thick look and feel of a urethane-coated restaurant table, if you get what I mean there. I'd prefer a feel like the paint on a car rather than ever so slightly rubbery tabletop. I'm used to using gloss followed by satin for miniatures, but I feel like I should be using something stronger for this.
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Aug 23, 2021 15:54
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signalnoise posted:I'd like a product recommendation for a sealant/varnish to be used over decals and paint put on wood for an arcade controller. I want it to be durable as hell without having that weirdly thick look and feel of a urethane-coated restaurant table, if you get what I mean there. I'd prefer a feel like the paint on a car rather than ever so slightly rubbery tabletop. I'm used to using gloss followed by satin for miniatures, but I feel like I should be using something stronger for this. Why not just put a thin sheet of glass or plexiglass over it?
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Aug 23, 2021 17:59
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You could try automotive clear coat. You can get some in a spray can that are pretty close to the professional car paint stuff.
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Aug 23, 2021 18:02
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signalnoise posted:I'd like a product recommendation for a sealant/varnish to be used over decals and paint put on wood for an arcade controller. I want it to be durable as hell without having that weirdly thick look and feel of a urethane-coated restaurant table, if you get what I mean there. I'd prefer a feel like the paint on a car rather than ever so slightly rubbery tabletop. I'm used to using gloss followed by satin for miniatures, but I feel like I should be using something stronger for this.
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Aug 23, 2021 18:41
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Cyrano4747 posted:Why not just put a thin sheet of glass or plexiglass over it? For replaceable art on a top panel that's standard practice for many controllers out there but it seems a bit weird to me to do that to the sides Kaiser Schnitzel posted:To get the look and feel you want, you can use about any clear film finish, you just need to really wet sand it level and smooth with 320 grit wetordry paper and then rub it out with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Nitrocellulose lacquer, polyurethane, various epoxies, shellac are all decent options. Ahh, and you're talking about sanding out the finish itself, right? Like, of course get the sanding done right on the wood, but then after all the art is done and I'm clear coating, do it in multiple coats with proper leveling between coats? If so, that makes sense
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Aug 24, 2021 01:34
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For the mirror I posted about, i tried those toggle anchors, but even when the screw is tightened, the whole thing moves wiggles around left to right. We might have made the hole slightly too big, but it had to be that big to actually get the metal piece through. I called a professional glass installer and he's just going to put it up for 40 bucks so gently caress it. He said he would just use mastic instead. Not sure what the standard is, maybe liquid nails? I know he said he would put something under the mirror while it dries. 
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Aug 24, 2021 15:43
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I'm going a bit crazy here, after calling a few more places I think drilling into two studs and then using hanging wire is a lot better. But my drywall is apparently 2" thick??? I don't know how this is possible, I measured how far that strap went into the other hole which had a stud, before hitting something, and it was 2".
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Aug 24, 2021 20:22
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Cyrano4747 posted:Hey DIY goons, any suggestions for a cheap but not garbage bench vise? It doesn't need to be heavy duty or anything. Basic tasks I'm probably going to use it for: You may have already ordered, but I have been very happy with my YOST, although mine is one of their heavier duty ones https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBL62HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I got it for $124 back in the day, but it hasn't been that cheap in a long time.
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Aug 24, 2021 20:35
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actionjackson posted:I'm going a bit crazy here, after calling a few more places I think drilling into two studs and then using hanging wire is a lot better. But my drywall is apparently 2" thick??? I don't know how this is possible, I measured how far that strap went into the other hole which had a stud, before hitting something, and it was 2". People sometimes install a 1/4" sheet of drywall on top of already-installed drywall because it's easier than doing a teardown...but 2" of drywall seems pretty drat unlikely. What method are you using to find studs?
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Aug 24, 2021 21:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:People sometimes install a 1/4" sheet of drywall on top of already-installed drywall because it's easier than doing a teardown...but 2" of drywall seems pretty drat unlikely. What method are you using to find studs? someone told me it might be plaster, but this was only built in 2005 so that seems odd. I know from building records as well as neighbors that the studs are 16" apart. I just went to a hardware store and am going to try the anchor method again along with picture wire.
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Aug 24, 2021 22:02
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actionjackson posted:I'm going a bit crazy here, after calling a few more places I think drilling into two studs and then using hanging wire is a lot better. But my drywall is apparently 2" thick??? I don't know how this is possible, I measured how far that strap went into the other hole which had a stud, before hitting something, and it was 2".
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Aug 25, 2021 01:37
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Slugworth posted:I may be misunderstanding you, but are you saying you stuck it in a hole confirmed to be over a stud? If so, wouldn't you then be measuring the thickness of the drywall plus the depth of whatever hole was left in the stud itself? yes that is a good point! but I also did measure the depth of the other hole that did not have a stud - it was at least 1", definitely nowhere near the 5/8" standard for fire stop drywall (or whatever it's called). It's plugged up now so I can't really recheck, but the good news is I went to my local hardware store, got some new anchors (rated at 50 pounds each in drywall) and hanging wire, and was able to hang up the mirror with no issue this time using that. The anchors are in a different location so no issue with the previous holes or studs. edit: the anchors are the ones here, model 02346 http://powers-guide.com/Products/Mechanical/Light-Duty-Cavity-Anchors/Zip-Its it says "wallboard" - is that drywall or is it plaster? Someone above mentioned plaster based on the thickness, but would someone really use plaster in 2005 tract housing? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 04:54
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I found this picture from when I had an electrician cut it open to put in a new outlet. Yeah that can't be 2", must be more like 1". Still pretty thick though. The studs are definitely 16" apart since I know that white area and is 48" wide.
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Aug 25, 2021 05:12
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