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This ain't a pride in my work thing, but rather posting so I complete it. I decided to stop thinking about trying and just try instead. The lumber places I've checked out have been a bust because they don't wanna deal with small orders I guess. Rather than think too hard about the dimensions of just something to use while I work on something better, I just went to Home Depot and got some dimensioned poplar and a plate of 16 gauge sheet metal that will be a top plate arcade buttons snap into. Because I don't have appropriate corner clamps yet, I am just using the sheet metal itself as a template. I have a sheet of .75" plywood I'll be cutting two more rectangles the size of the metal plate. These are just straight up butt joints in the picture, so to strengthen the box, I have a 1.5"x1.5" stick of square poplar I'll be using to strengthen the corners and to be used for insert nuts, allowing me to connect the bottoms up to the rest of the box in a removable way. Maybe in the future I'll use acrylic for that job. I plan to just get it all together, cut off excess, use a palm router to smooth out corners, and paint it up dumb. Should take very little time relative to my hemming and hawing about doing something beyond my capabilities.  Update: I have successfully spilled half a bottle of titebond signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 17:53
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 Finally made a knockout bar for my lathe. Got it second hand and didn't come with one.
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Aug 23, 2021 01:30
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Hadn’t done any projects in a while, but made a little shelf for my just-before-heading-out-the-door stuff tray thingy Nothing like a quick one-day project to get back in the swing of things.
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Aug 23, 2021 01:43
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nosleep posted:I'm making a faux beam mantle for above our fireplace out of home depot pine. I'm following this popular woodworking guide on how to stain pine. That would be some serious sanding. But, other than darkening the whole thing, I don't know you have too many other options.
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Aug 23, 2021 04:42
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I made my first trek to Harbor Freight yesterday. Got quite a bit of decent enough stuff for a good price. Picked up 4 f style clamps at $3 each, that's a pretty good deal, with the caveat that I would test them out in the store to get the best of the bunch. About half had issues, either the screw did not turn smoothly or the movable head didn't travel easily up and down the bar but the ones I ended up with are nice enough, especially at that prices. Also got some aluminum bar clamps - gonna create wood inserts to remove bending and torsion issues, and then use them to hold wood for planing until I make a decent workbench. Oh, I would like to request all tool makers spend the extra 5 cents to use quality loving product stickers - I'm really sick of having to use goo gone and scrape for minutes at a time on even moderately priced tools. The worst purchase was a $15 4 inch caliper - I figured it might be nice to have a smaller one I don't care about too much to keep in my apron at all times and given the magic they work with decent tools for like a 1/3 of the price, I wagered a measurement item at only half price would have a bit more care taken in manufacturing. On opening it up, I noticed quite a bit of black grime on some of the parts, and it didn't move smoothly at all. The store is 20 minutes away and I didn't feel like heading there and back so I thought I'd try cleaning it. Put a bunch of 3 in 1 oil on the rail to try and get it moving smoother, and that led to just impressive amounts of black gritty grime coming out as I shifted it back and forth. I figured cleaning that out would solve it, but this stuff just kept coming, and worse, it was getting stuck and really difficult to move, and the grime was seemingly unending. So I took it apart, found there was still plenty of grime and set to work cleaning it out. Took a while but after doing that and some light filing to smooth out machined edges and a couple of machine marks/mistreatment of milled parts it's moving pretty smoothly and working quite well! Not very time efficient and I probably would have been better served just spending a bit more, but it was sort of a fun project - I've been getting interested in what you can do to rescue or recover broken or badly functioning tools. 2 months in to this hobby, I have 27 proper clamps. At this rate, clamps will be larger than national GDP within 5 years...
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Aug 23, 2021 17:28
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Had a coworker that would buy a new HF digital caliper every year or so. They wouldn't last, but they always measured accurately versus gauge blocks we had at work.
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Aug 23, 2021 17:55
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I'm planning out a freestanding sunglass display shelf for my wife's shop and need some advice regarding baltic birch thickness. The shelves will be about 5"x20" and screwed into the spine of the shelf which will be a ~12"x72" board of 3/4" baltic birch board. I was planning to secure the shelves to the spine with #8 trim fit screws, pre-drilled of course. My question is how thick should I go for the shelves? Since I'll be screwing into the edge of the shelves to secure them onto the spine, I don't want to risk splitting or separating the layers of the baltic birch. Is 1/4" thickness too thin? Is 3/8" a safer bet?
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Aug 23, 2021 18:30
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Pikey posted:I'm planning out a freestanding sunglass display shelf for my wife's shop and need some advice regarding baltic birch thickness. The shelves will be about 5"x20" and screwed into the spine of the shelf which will be a ~12"x72" board of 3/4" baltic birch board. I was planning to secure the shelves to the spine with #8 trim fit screws, pre-drilled of course. My question is how thick should I go for the shelves? Since I'll be screwing into the edge of the shelves to secure them onto the spine, I don't want to risk splitting or separating the layers of the baltic birch. Is 1/4" thickness too thin? Is 3/8" a safer bet?
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Aug 23, 2021 18:33
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I'm going to be making a trestle table and I have some questions about the top. Can I do a glueup of boards and not do a breadboard? Table is going to be fairly small, 30"-34" x 54"-60". I haven't decided the final dimensions yet but I'm playing with different sizes in the space to see what works before I start making it. How thicc should the top be? is 1" ok, or does it need to be thicker? I'm planning on doing a hardwood top and a pine bottom, some sort of trestle table.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:30
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Just installed the $21 carpenter’s vise from Harbor Freight over lunch. This thing rules for the price! Spins smoothly, holds tight. Pretty good as a stopgap. I’m upgrading from some random Stanley vise that can be moved in several directions on a ball joint with a thin jaw covered in plastic. I couldn’t get the thing to stay in place while trying out planing. With this new vise, I clamped a thin board that got water damaged while experimenting with diamond plates and had it edge jointer in a few minutes (courtesy of my tuned Jack plane). drat it feels good to have things falling into place so well.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:37
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I'm going to be making a trestle table and I have some questions about the top. 1 inch is plenty thick for a table that size. Do you need breadboards? Depends on if the table will forever live in a climate controlled house. If you can alternate the growth rings the chances of it cupping significantly are minimized. Do account for expansion across the width in any case.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:47
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I'm going to be making a trestle table and I have some questions about the top. 1" is way thick enough. You can absolutely glue up without breadboards, it helps a lot to have a spring joint where you have the tiniest gap in the center and the ends are touching. The gap then gets closed by the clamps, and you'll never have the ends opening up. This assumes you're hand-planing the edges to achieve that spring joint, it's fairly easy.
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Aug 23, 2021 20:49
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SimonSays posted:1" is way thick enough. You can absolutely glue up without breadboards, it helps a lot to have a spring joint where you have the tiniest gap in the center and the ends are touching. The gap then gets closed by the clamps, and you'll never have the ends opening up. I think that's assuming you're only using 2 wide boards, yes? Otherwise, it sounds like a recipe for disaster. And if he does a proper glue-up it shouldn't even be a consideration. And if it's stable wood type, no breadboard should not be an issue, imo. Even with something like red oak, if you reverse the grain, you're okay. Here's a guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFn7JZmyFqk
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Aug 23, 2021 22:01
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Pikey posted:I'm planning out a freestanding sunglass display shelf for my wife's shop and need some advice regarding baltic birch thickness. The shelves will be about 5"x20" and screwed into the spine of the shelf which will be a ~12"x72" board of 3/4" baltic birch board. I was planning to secure the shelves to the spine with #8 trim fit screws, pre-drilled of course. My question is how thick should I go for the shelves? Since I'll be screwing into the edge of the shelves to secure them onto the spine, I don't want to risk splitting or separating the layers of the baltic birch. Is 1/4" thickness too thin? Is 3/8" a safer bet? Whatever you decide, I'd like to see the final product. I'm thinking about a small (8-12 compartment) shelf/case for my sunglasses to sit on a table and wouldn't mind the inspiration.
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Aug 23, 2021 22:32
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Mr. Mambold posted:I think that's assuming you're only using 2 wide boards, yes? Otherwise, it sounds like a recipe for disaster. And if he does a proper glue-up it shouldn't even be a consideration. I've got a table sitting next to me with six boards for the top done with that method, you just don't do them all at once. E: it's been through one summer and one winter so don't take this as great advice necessarily. Also it's cherry, advice may not apply with red oak. SimonSays fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 23, 2021 22:53
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Fortaleza posted:Hadn’t done any projects in a while, but made a little shelf for my just-before-heading-out-the-door stuff tray thingy I too grab an axe at the door as part of my every day carry
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Aug 23, 2021 23:31
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shame on an IGA posted:I too grab an axe at the door as part of my every day carry That and my red & black plaid shirt is my Steve Buscemi “how do you do, fellow Oregonians?” outfit
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Aug 23, 2021 23:46
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Lessons I am learning about hand resawing: - A 5 tpi wide blade D8 is a wood hungry beast - The wide blade helps keep straight but God help you if you start off a fraction of a degree off your line because you aren't bringing it back - Cross dominance loving sucks when you're trying to keep to a line - Anyone online who says that hand resawing is not so bad is clearly not trying to dimension 9 feet of 10" wide 8/4 maple.
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Aug 24, 2021 00:00
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NomNomNom posted:1 inch is plenty thick for a table that size. Do you need breadboards? Depends on if the table will forever live in a climate controlled house. If you can alternate the growth rings the chances of it cupping significantly are minimized. Do account for expansion across the width in any case. Is there a type wood you'd recommend? As far as accounting for expansion, how is that done if not with breadboards?
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Aug 24, 2021 00:05
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Is there a type wood you'd recommend? Don't bolt it in so tight, so it has room to move across the grain free of the base. Slotted recesses or turnbuttons are good solutions.
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Aug 24, 2021 00:28
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Stultus Maximus posted:Lessons I am learning about hand resawing: Oofda. That resaw alone sounds like a multiple day kind of project.
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Aug 24, 2021 00:36
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Stultus Maximus posted:Lessons I am learning about hand resawing: - Spending the money on a band saw is completely worth it.
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Aug 24, 2021 00:46
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Is there a type wood you'd recommend? It sounds like you're going for a rustic farmhouse kinda look. White oak (red on a budget) would look very handsome with a painted white trestle base. For fastening the top to your base I like z clips or figure 8 fasteners.
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Aug 24, 2021 00:53
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NomNomNom posted:It sounds like you're going for a rustic farmhouse kinda look. White oak (red on a budget) would look very handsome with a painted white trestle base. I was planning on gluing some blocks on the bottom of the table and using a dowel to hold it in place so that I can knock the dowel out to break down the table. I got the idea from this video https://youtu.be/F-SxsnG7CLc
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Aug 24, 2021 01:40
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ColdPie posted:Oofda. That resaw alone sounds like a multiple day kind of project. Yeah, I'll probably do a foot a night after work. Deteriorata posted:- Spending the money on a band saw is completely worth it. Already have a regular one, not gonna spend the money and take up the space in a small shop for a new one with 10"+ resaw capacity. e: Also want to say how cool it is to be working with a saw that predates the Great Depression and will most likely outlive me. Stultus Maximus fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 01:52
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Stultus Maximus posted:Already have a regular one, not gonna spend the money and take up the space in a small shop for a new one with 10"+ resaw capacity. I bought some riser blocks for my bandsaw, which basically just make it taller. I don't know if that's an option for your saw, but it's worth knowing that it's a possibility.
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Aug 24, 2021 02:26
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SimonSays posted:I've got a table sitting next to me with six boards for the top done with that method, you just don't do them all at once. I've glued up shitloads of panels including my 28 years & counting red oak kitchen cabinet doors in the next room and a handful of table tops, and never considered doing something like this. I always glued the entire thing at one go, and no problems. Seems like you're making unnecessary work, but you glue you.
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Aug 24, 2021 03:26
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Stultus Maximus posted:- Anyone online who says that hand resawing is not so bad is clearly not trying to dimension 9 feet of 10" wide 8/4 maple. On the plus side you can save money on crossfit.
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Aug 24, 2021 05:06
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Is there a type wood you'd recommend? Cherry is a nice stable wood and not too expensive right now. Ash is like friendlier, cheaper, more stable oak, but it's kind of a funny color without stain. White oak is a nice wood but a bit expensive in my area right now. Mr. Mambold posted:I've glued up shitloads of panels including my 28 years & counting red oak kitchen cabinet doors in the next room and a handful of table tops, and never considered doing something like this. I always glued the entire thing at one go, and no problems. Seems like you're making unnecessary work, but you glue you.
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Aug 24, 2021 13:34
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Didn't you just get a godzilla jointer recently? If you have boards with some variance, you can lay them with the bow parallel*. But again, if you're gluing up proper like, there'll never be separation. You know the old saw about the glue being stronger than the wood, etc *edit, okay, I'm walking that back. I posted it as I was having a banana for brekky, and a banana would be the result of such a glue-up. Also walking back the diss of monkey-av guy, because I'm sure I've glued up boards with a slight dissonance in straight, but again, the strength of the glue has always made it right. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 16:21
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Mr. Mambold posted:Didn't you just get a godzilla jointer recently? If you have boards with some variance, you can lay them with the bow parallel*. But again, if you're gluing up proper like, there'll never be separation. You know the old saw about the glue being stronger than the wood, etc Godzilla jointer came set up from the factory to cut a very slight spring joint and I've never messed with it. My old regular jointer was a normal finnicky one that I couldn't get perfect, so I settled on 'slightly sprung' instead of loving around with it for 4 more hours or whatever. I wish my tablesaw would cut a nice glue joint but I just don't quite trust it. I actually noticed earlier that the big jointer is starting to cut closer to straight or even a bit convex and now I have to figure out how to adjust it for the first time in 2 years. 
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Aug 24, 2021 17:50
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https://i.imgur.com/WzDXQvJ.mp4 Cross posted in the CNC thread but it probably fits here as well. Did some "Fine" woodworking and built a new table and enclosure for my Onefinity cnc router. Disco mode with the led lights was just a bonus.  Couple additional pictures over there if anyone is interested.
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Aug 24, 2021 23:16
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I want to elaborate on something I said earlier: I'm cross-dominant. Right handed but left-eyed. Like most people who know this about themselves, I only learned it in military marksmanship training. A lot of people probably have no idea that they are. As I've been resawing that maple, I've had a lot of trouble keeping on the line. I looked at possible causes and most places say that the saw set may be unbalanced. But then I remembered the cross dominance. I started sawing with my left hand and while it's a little awkward, I've been keeping dead on the line. As soon as I switched back to right hand, I started drifting again. I don't know how many people this applies to, but if you have trouble keeping on a line with hand tools, it's worth thinking about.
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Aug 24, 2021 23:37
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nosleep posted:I'm making a faux beam mantle for above our fireplace out of home depot pine. I'm following this popular woodworking guide on how to stain pine. Mr. Mambold posted:That would be some serious sanding. But, other than darkening the whole thing, I don't know you have too many other options. Would it be possible to carefully apply another coat of dye, and just avoiding going over those streaks again and see if it makes it less noticeable? Otherwise I don't mind taking the ROS to it again since I only have to re-do the front side, if that seems like it would work. I just don't know too much about dye and I can't find much other info on this problem.
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Aug 25, 2021 00:52
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Some cabinet maker about 30 minutes away is trying unload his stash of lumber. He described it as: Lots of poplar, some clear pine, some red oak, a few pieces of ash, some cypress scraps, which he's selling for $4 a board foot. Is that in the general area of a good deal? I'm going to be making some poplar cabinet doors in the future, so it's probably reasonably useful for me anyway.
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Aug 25, 2021 00:54
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Hey goons, guy with zero carpentry experience with a question about minor repairs. I rent an apartment in a really old building (1905 I think), which has a 2nd story porch attached with really low quality wood floor. I got a dog this winter and he tore a bit of it up when I let him hang out there. This apartment has a lot of stuff falling apart, but I think my landlord will notice this when I move out, so I’d like to try and at least fix it up a bit. I know it won’t look perfect, especially given the quality of this wood, but I’m trying to at least patch it up enough so he doesn’t try and say “oh no I’ll never be able to rent this out now you’ll ha e to pay to replace it!” Again, I have zero experience, though I’ll probably get my dad to help as he’s pretty handy. Pics below. Thanks for any suggestions! 
Yorkshire Pudding fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 01:02
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Danhenge posted:Some cabinet maker about 30 minutes away is trying unload his stash of lumber. He described it as: Those species aren't highly desirable, and in my neck of the woods (dc mid Atlantic) $4 bd ft is about what those would cost, red oak and poplar even less. So no, not a deal.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:10
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Danhenge posted:Some cabinet maker about 30 minutes away is trying unload his stash of lumber. He described it as: I'd think it depends where you are. My local lumberyard is 4$/bf rough for your oak, cherry, ash, poplar, birch, etc. So I wouldn't really take that price for random wood, but then again if it's seasoned it might be convenient.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:12
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I live on the Delmarva Peninsula, the closest lumber yard is ~45 minutes. Poplar at lowes/HD sells at about the equivalent of $8/bf. I guess I don't know what the price of poplar at the local lumber yards is. Edit: This is the price list of my local lumber yard in 2009. I haven't been at this long enough to judge how things would have changed in the interim http://www.cheswoodsales.com/images/SELL.PDF Danhenge fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 01:14
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Danhenge posted:I live on the Delmarva Peninsula, the closest lumber yard is ~45 minutes. Poplar at lowes/HD sells at about the equivalent of $8/bf. I guess I don't know what the price of poplar at the local lumber yards is. Probably a lot cheaper. The eastern Maryland yard I get emails from (Maryland Select Hardwoods) has narrow poplar at $1/bf and wider poplar at 2.50/bf, sometimes surfaced at that price. (He’ll also throw in 10 bf of narrow poplar free if you buy 100 bucks of other wood.). And that’s a lot closer to DC so probably pricier overall. Kalman fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 01:19
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